thanks I am looking for what everybody else is running wether it be BRS JACO or TRC. if I know that I can get a better ida of what RC4Less compounds I need.

Dave - I misunderstood, BSR's Greens on the left side, Silver/Gray rf, Gray/White rr.

Doug P

good choice Doug...i'll be running the same...except for a black RF tire...wich should react better on a higher bite race condition(such as the 'birds)

Eric S
team CW and BSR

I didnt care for the greens down the left side...At least for me and my lap times I did better running >> BSR Pearl LR White LF Black RF and white gray RR..however I cant run paragon weekly so Im usually running nifftech or TQ8+ Im still undecided on what to run at the birds.. Im sure ill run the above combo in stock.. 19T ive not made up my mind yet..

thanks guys you've been a big help.

Kenwood,

Just follow me in 19T and you'll get to see the correct tires to run. The best view will be from about 3 feet back.....lol.

Man your talking the smack already...LOL...just pumping me up more... :)

To be honest >>>My plan for tires is I will just talk to either Koback or Foister.. they will know whats the fast setup to run...

go to that link(BSR)

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?p=1353694#post1353694post1353694


i'm posting what you might want to try...<<

Eric Salvas
team BSR
and CW

Id agree with what you or he was saying... I ran wite lf pearl LR black RF and white gray RR... the bit was less last weekend than the weekend of the warmup... My car had rear chatter with the white/gray RR...John said that I should have been on a white rear.. Others were running the pink purple combo and their car looked better than mine did.. I tuned some of the chatter out But never eliinated it..I was about 1/2 lap off last week.. compared to the week before.. Im going to plan on white combo for stock and a pink purple 19T...however I wont rule anything out untill Im there... Basically Im just planning on breaking the bank while im down there.. :thumbsup:

eric, do u have a pic. of the new CW slider car, i'm thinking about getting something new..

Click onto the early part of this thread where Steve osts pics...under steves page there is a pic list marked SLIDER..

However as Im finding out right now... the slider is not readily available.. Unless there is a stockpile somewhere that Ive not contacted in the last 2 days there are none to be found..

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/510/slider_cw_003.jpghttp://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/510/slider_cw_001.jpgzoom52...click in my gallery(on the right side of my icon...)there is a couple...

Eric

Eric S.
Have you guys messed around with lowered ball studs for the side shocks?

Need some starting points for the Snowbirds race. Running 4 cell stock, what rollout should be used?
What diameter for the front tires? rear tires?
What is a good pinion/spur gear ratio?
Thanks!!!

Many asked about my "flat oval" 19T setup ... find it here ...

http://www.tqcells.com/CW/Salvas19T.pdf
http://www.tqcells.com/CW/Salvas27T.pdf

Steve.
team CW

here yah go.

three..running stock at the snowbirds...go out with 120 or 124 spur...roll-out in the 2.10-2.20 range...depending on motor setup(rpm-amps)...

tires...2.22-2.24 is a good strating point
optimal is 2.20-2.18 range
Eric

Eric S.
Have you guys messed around with lowered ball studs for the side shocks?

I ran that way at sandhills, finished 3 spots behind you. Last year at Snowbirds Frank Palomeda ran short ball studs on his 6 cell car.
Doug P

Eric S.
Have you guys messed around with lowered ball studs for the side shocks?

we never tried...but...doing so...if your playing with the same shock angle(ie...lowering the outside balls too)...your basicly shortening the travel lenght of the side shocks...meaning...with the same pod movement...the shocks travel less distance...this could give you a softer feel with the same springs...showing more body roll...wich is maybe why FP tried these in 6cell mod...to increase rear roll and rear traction...<<

Eric

Makes sense
On banked i typically run the long stock stud and my shocks in the top holes or one down on the mount (making them sit pretty level).

I was thinking about dropping the stud down and going down to say the 3rd hole down on the mount (so they would still sit pretty level but lower on the chassis)

we never tried...but...doing so...if your playing with the same shock angle(ie...lowering the outside balls too)...your basicly shortening the travel lenght of the side shocks...meaning...with the same pod movement...the shocks travel less distance...this could give you a stiffer feel with the same springs...showing less body roll...wich is maybe why FP tried these in 6cell mod...to reduce rear roll...<<

Eric

Sorry, twinbro ... but I think you got it upside down ... moving the shocks down (closer to the pivot point) without changing shock's angle will indeed result in shorter shock travel thus weakening the spring and oil shock combo.

Steve.

oops...sorry...your right...this mainly why...when switching to CW from a different brand...we went softer on side springs....we were running opaque with the other company...then switched to silver ae...to obtain same rate on the sides...sorry again..

Eric(the other half of it)

This may sound stupid, but it's killing me and I have to ask.
I see guy's with one softer spring in the rear, don't you have to crank the preload up so far on that spring to get your weights correct that it negates the whole purpose of running one softer, and one stiffer???
I would think the same springs, with different angles would allow a stiffer feel to one side or the other.
Am I crazy here???

Later, Bret

Eric S.

Did you just put some linkage collars on your upper suspension arms or is that a different make??? What size/type collars did you use?

Thanks

those are regular du-bros collar...3/32'' i think...used with piano wire....

Eric S

Try the Custom works hinge pins on the upper suspension arms they are hardened and won't bend like the piano wire.

Pepe I have been running the same piano wire since I built both of my cars last March.

I'm running the piano wire also but I've found it will bend sometimes if you take a good lick,I'm going to try the custom works pins for a little while just to see the difference,hardened metal has to be better than piano wire.imop.

My Aggresor Slider Broke The Track Record At The Strand In Nepa Went 67 4.008 Beat It By 2 1/2 Seconds .! Thanks Custom Works!

Good job Dave. Awesome car Huh.

Post 1473, no comments???:confused: .

This may sound stupid, but it's killing me and I have to ask.
I see guy's with one softer spring in the rear, don't you have to crank the preload up so far on that spring to get your weights correct that it negates the whole purpose of running one softer, and one stiffer???
I would think the same springs, with different angles would allow a stiffer feel to one side or the other.
Am I crazy here???

Later, Bret

Which way would give you the same feel as far as the angles go?

I'm thinking if you run a stiffer spring on the left side, you'd be better off with the same springs, and increase the angle on the left instead :thumbsup: .

Maybe????????

Pepe I have been running the same piano wire since I built both of my cars last March.

I'm running the wingwire as well in the caster blocks with the dubro ends and no problems ...... it works realy well ....... i just made up some extra sections ........ just in case......:thumbsup:

The Jet: Having spilt rated springs on the side shocks is the same as running a stiffer or softer RR spring on a real car. Stiffer RR spring, car will turn more thru center and exit. Softer RR spring, car will drive forward more thru center and exit.

Flat Tracks: For more rotation in thru the turn and exit...
Since the shocks are backwards on a pan car (shock for RR is on the left side of car) running a stiffer spring on the left side shock will, for the same amount of rear tweak, put more weight on the LF, and the car will want to turn more center-off and drive forward less.

Banked Tracks/Low Bite: For more drive out of turn...
Running a softer spring on the left side shock will, for the same amount of rear tweak, put less weight on the LF, and the car will want to turn less center-off and drive forward more. Ideal for banked tracks in most 4 cell racing today.

He's ALIVE!!!!

Got a center shock for me big guy??

Take care and I'l see ya soon :tongue:

The Jet: Having spilt rated springs on the side shocks is the same as running a stiffer or softer RR spring on a real car.

Arnie, I understand where your coming from, but this application is different because the springs work directly against each other off a pivot point.
To get your pod level, you need equal pressure???
Not trying to argue, just trying to understand.

Later, Bret

The fact that they are working against each other really isn't important. View it this way: If the pod is skewed to the left while off the ground, as soon as you set the car down, it starts to compress that right side spring. A stiffer spring will require less preload, aka pod skewing while off the ground, to hold whatever LR weight you want to see on the scale. A stiffer spring will add load to the tire it is affecting with less physical deflection of the spring because its rating curve is steeper.

OK, I think I understand where your coming from, but it's still not sitting well with me (I'm old, LOL)
Are you saying you can set the car up with 13 OZ on the LR with equal springs and the preload adjusted accordingly, then put a softer spring on the right, put the preload to the same point and have 13 oz on the LR???

i would like to say thanks to custom works for there support of the 16 th asphault challange in gillbert az. custom works finished 2 and 3 in stock second in the a main for 19t i got dot happy and was just a foot from 1 st. and the other one won the b with more laps than the a mainers did.

drivers were

brian liebig and perry holand both were powerd by BS motorsports motors

Good Luck to all the CW drivers (Arnie, Salvas's, Marabella, Parasano, Flurer, and anyone else that I missed) at the Birds this week.

From looking at the practice times Arnie is looking good in 4 cell mod

could someone please tell me where i can buy a graphite front bumper for the
aggressor. i looked at lefthander and they dont have any in stock. thanks

Call Pete Russell Hobbies Monday after 9:30am he has 2 in stock as of Friday night. 574-293-1827. He keeps all of the Aggressor parts on the shelf. The only thing he doesn't have are chassis plates which have been backorder for some time now.

thanks i will give them a call

Congrats to DavePull (aka Dave Pulifaco) on making the A main in Sportsman 19T and Steve Pedano for making the B Main in Sportsman 19T both with CW cars @ The Snowbird Nationals.

I qualified top 20 (20th) in Sportsman and won the C main in Sportsman 19T with my CW car. (for some reason there was 10 cars in the 19T A main, and only 9 cars in the lower mains :rolleyes: so i was in the C)

I'd also like to thank the Steve Salvas for posting his carpet set-ups here, I wasnt able to get to the birds until the night of the club race, and while I didnt set the track on fire ....... i used his setups to get my cars closer then they ever would have been otherwise ......... so thanks again.

anyone have a killer setup for asphalt for the new silder chassis they'd like to share ?

Congrats to DavePull (aka Dave Pulifaco) on making the A main in Sportsman 19T and Steve Pedano for making the B Main in Sportsman 19T both with CW cars @ The Snowbird Nationals.

I qualified top 20 (20th) in Sportsman and won the C main in Sportsman 19T with my CW car. (for some reason there was 10 cars in the 19T A main, and only 9 cars in the lower mains :rolleyes: so i was in the C)

I'd also like to thank the Steve Salvas for posting his carpet set-ups here, I wasnt able to get to the birds until the night of the club race, and while I didnt set the track on fire ....... i used his setups to get my cars closer then they ever would have been otherwise ......... so thanks again.

anyone have a killer setup for asphalt for the new silder chassis they'd like to share ?
Dog, give me a few months until it gets warm here in Central Pa, and I will let you know then. If you can, give me some input on the track where you race I will see if I can point you in the right direction. I can tell you what a solid chassis setup would be if you would like that as somewhat of a starting point? Just let me know.

Beach

PS, good run at FL by the way! :thumbsup:

Ok time to start this thing up again lol Arnie wheres my 1/12 aggressor I really hope my whining will get you guy's to biuld one. I'm in desprate need of a new one.

i'd like to cast a vote for a 1/12!!!!

i think its a good idea, hope it happens

I need to thank Arnie and Phil for the help at snowbirds. You guys are class acts and are willing to help when needed. I learned a lot and am glad to be running a Custom Works car.

Thanks

I need to thank Arnie and Phil for the help at snowbirds. You guys are class acts and are willing to help when needed. I learned a lot and am glad to be running a Custom Works car.

Thanks

Jashack that the reason I switched to CW I couldn't find a company with as much feed back.

Hi All,

I'm new to the custom works family. I set the car up with Steve Salva's setup and the car was good. The one thing that i'm having trouble with is ride height. I can't seem to duplicate that. I know my tires are a little larger then Steve's were (2.24 vs. 2.16) but the chassis seems to be real high in the front. What is everyone doing or using to lower the front ride height. Currently I'm using 2 (2x.065) CRC ride height washer under each arm. This leaves the front between 5.5 and 6mm off the ground. The the right side back is 7mm the pod is 7.5mm and the left side back is like 4.5mm. I'm concerned that the left rear of the chassis is the lowest point of the car. Shouldn't the left front be the lowest? Any suggestions would be very helpful.

Thank You,
Tim