Does anyone have any experience w/ running the aggressor w/ the pod plates moved back to the longer setting? I know i have one track that i race on where the bumps are pronounced. i was thinking about setting my car up w/ the pod plates back, but was wondering what anyone else has noticed in the cars handling when they tried it...

rcavenger, the longer rear pod set up will soften the rear suspension and give more rear bite so the car will be tighter.
I just got my kit and WOW I'm impresed with the instructions and the fit of all the parts, awesome job by Custom Works, can't wait to get it on the track.

Can you physically make the pod longer....like the axle further from the T-plate?? Just trying to understand how this works....?

yep, and if you move the front back, you can keep the same wheelbase :thumbsup: .

You need to get one of these. Come check mine out.

Later, Bret

Doug.....PLEASE no abortions on that new ride!!!!!!!! Beach

Let's say you run the car in the 10" wheelbase ... you can actually move the pod (motor mount and left carrier, yes there is another set of holes in the pod plates), front suspension, front bumper, rear body posts all 3/8" farther to the rear ... and what you get is still 10" wheelbase but longer rear pod. You don't have to worry about your body fitting or not the new configuration. All you have to do is pre-drill the chassis for your servo to fit in the 3 available positions (0.375" steps).

That longer rear pod will greatly improve stability on rough track surfaces (it would've been real nice to have at last year's Snowbird Nats lol)

I'll post pics later tomorrow jeepnyy.

Steve.
Team CW
Here's what I posted on page 1 Tom.

Steve.

Whats the distance to drill for servo placement?

Whats the distance to drill for servo placement?Of course it depends of your servo brand/size and servo mounting hardware...

On my car the servo holes are 3,900" from the front chassis edge (for the 10" wheelbase: front middle) ... that's with a futaba S9650 and "Trinity style" adjustable servo mounts.

Steve.
Team CW

has anyone tested the longer rear pod option vs. the std. config yet?

Just an FYI the new CustomWorks Agressor broke the track record at Fastlane Raceway in Blue Springs, Mo it's first time out. The only one to run 72 laps....

Keep up the good work..Thanks

BTW I ran with the rear pod longer and it handles the bumps very well

Dan Pierson

Edit: Talked to Todd, it's on it's way!

Steve,

Can you double check the mounting location dimensions. Mine are at about the 4.0" that arnie recommended and they look about right. I wonder if you are measuring from a different point as I can't find any reasonable way to be at the 1.9" you mentioned in your post.

Thanks

Steve,

Can you double check the mounting location dimensions. Mine are at about the 4.0" that arnie recommended and they look about right. I wonder if you are measuring from a different point as I can't find any reasonable way to be at the 1.9" you mentioned in your post.

Thanks
3.9" that is ... hey ... I was only 2" off ;-)

Steve.

mine showed yesterday.... and I can tell, this is a damn good car. Well thought out, and everything is in the box... which has got to be a first.

I'll have it on the track this weekend, should have some results to report back Sunday night.

first time out last night...personal best of 77 laps, 3 sec. off track record. was right on the record holders back door at the line:) very pleased w/ the car so far, but i think i am going to put the kit f'glass Tbar in instead of the soft spring steel one, as it seemed the Tbar may have been a little too stiff. the car had great mid corner and exit speed. best kit i have ever assembled, and i barely touched the setup from what Steve posted. Kudos to Custom Works, looking forward to getting more track time w/ the car.

Scott Johnson

Your "soft" t-bar seemed too stiff....

I have the medium one and it does not seem to be much stiffer than the fiberglass one???

what was the car doing that made you feel it was too stiff???? Im more or less curious so I can determine if the medium is too much for my home track..

the car was a little darty in the str8s, felt like it was 'riding on top of the carpet' a little too much. i had a similar feeling at Trackside before, then i cut the center bar out of a med spring steel plate, and the car was smooth and much more solid feeling. I guess i just prefer a really soft Tplate, and the 'soft' spring steel one feels a little stiff for my liking. i am going to try the kit fiber glass one, and cut the center 'bar' out of a med. one and try it in the future.

So...not to be an arse..but I don't like it when you guys say everything in the box...it comes with a stock AE front end and we all know that NO ONE uses those king pins and stuff. I was hoping CW would include everything in this. I will say it is more complete than any other kit, but still not everything. I want to get one of these but I have 2 KSG's......

Your right vwal. It also doesn't come with alum servo mounts or alum shock collars for the side shocks. But the quality & fit are as good as I've seen.

__________________
Brent Pearcy
Bulit Motorsports (http://www.bulitmotorsports.com/), TQCells (http://www3.sympatico.ca/tqcells/)

O, and no 1/8" wolfe spindals!!! I have to have those too. But yeah..the car is so cool it is still worth it!!! Any car that has had that much thought put into it is well worth the money. It looks sweet and sounds like it is fast as well. Maybe someone will have one that races with me and I can see one first hand.

I am having a problem with the front ride height. I used the wolfe long kingpins and and the frontend sits like a monster truck. Probably 1/4" of ride height. I installed the plastic shims under the lower a-arms. If I put anymore under them the a-arms will not even be in the locators. My question is did I assemble somthing wrong. The manual says a good starting point is 1/4" ride height which seems very high to me. My local track has a 3mm minumium ride height and I want to run it as close to that as possible.


Thanks,
Brian

Try using the supplied plastic spacer and an aluminum front end washer.Use a plastic 4-40 nut underneath and an alum. lock nut on top of the locater.

What are you guys using for a steering servo on these cars?

Try using the supplied plastic spacer and an aluminum front end washer.Use a plastic 4-40 nut underneath and an alum. lock nut on top of the locater.
I'm not sure I understand your setup ?!?

Are the front track locators upside down?

Look at this picture...

http://www3.sympatico.ca/tqcells/images/DSC00097.JPG

How big are your tires? My local track also has a 3mm rule and I have no problem getting the chassis that low. I put flat aluminum washers (pop rivet washers actually) underneath the a-arms.

Let me know.

Steve.
Team CW

Pop rivet washers are the best RH adjusters for the front, you can get them at every hardware store, you want to get the ones for 3/16" rivets and get the smallest OD ones they have. And it sounds to me that your tires must be huge too...

I used 1 alum associated washer, about 1/16 thick under the arms to get the rideheight to where I wanted it, and it sits nice and level with the #3 ride height blocks in the pod.

As everyone has stated, the fit and finish is perfect on every part. I did have to get the longer kingpins, but I am trying something with that, and will go into it after I am sure that it works to my satisfaction.

I tried the car at first with the offset tbar, and the car was real good off the corners @ K/N, but the fiberglass t bar was not quite the right stiffness. I then moved teh tbar to the canter, just to compare the offset to center, and found the car to have alot less bite off the corners with the centered tbar.

I ended up with a 2 slot steel sym. tbar, and the car was pretty good. It got a 58 flat today with it, about 1 lap off the record, but I am still finding speed in the chassis.. every run today picked up a second or 2 from the previous. Keep in mind that I am still running the side shocks, something that noone has ever gotten to be the fast way in 19 turn @ K/N. tweak screws in a 2 slot steel t bar and dampner tube has always been the fastest way, I am resisting this move, and I will give the car at least one race day in the currect configuration and see where it gets me.

I plan to race the car tomorrow, and try to get some better "real race data" to see how it stacks up against the others.

I'll get ahold of Todd this week and order up one of those offset tbars, probably one of each, so that I can get the tbar back offset where I think it will ultimately reside.

And before I firget to mention, this car is LIGHT! I am running an LRP quantum, a futabt pcm receiver, futaba 9650 servo, and a 2/3 AAA receiver pack, and still needed to add 6 1/4 oz pieces of lead with a 19 turn.........

Mod with this car....it's gotta still be light, no matter HOW big a wing you throw on it. Kudos to CustomWorks for making a killer lightweight car... first car I have run in years that needed lead.

I have the same gear in my car except for the speedo, I have a Keyence and my car weighed 40.5 today, which means I need 1.5 oz of lead...Same as Jason.

I ran it on flat fanfair with everything offset and a medium spring steel T-plate. The car was 98% right the moment I put it down with 3 pinks and a purple. My pinks are around 40 on the durometer. I also have a KSG swaybay with the .070 bar in. To get the car at 100% I believe I need a 45 on the RR and a .080 bar and it'll be un stoppable.
By the way, this is in modified :thumbsup: .

Later, Bret

Tires were kinda jumbo, 2.28/ 5 mm ride height, heading for a bumpy track. Front track locaters are high on the front arms, very solid though.

I do not have any spacers under the steering block. I know that they are there to even out for the upside down right steering block on the left. Have been spying on your pics/setups since I had an adrenaline :thumbsup:

As Vwal or Danny B will tell you, my setups can be "bananas" but works for me. Car was exactly 2 oz under weight.

Bananas....yeah you could say that, but yes they do work for you sometimes!!! How you been philb? Long time no see..you need to come race with us sometime, I am going to get over your way for some 19-0 or stock action sometime I swear.

I woke up on time to go east, everyone was going north, shoulda drove your way instead!!

CW car was great in practice, but knowing the conditions I used the hd instead, it took some brutal whacks.

Got to race the car Sunday, went real well. First off, let me say that I broke my best time ever twice, running 59 laps twice. I do believe that the better of the 2, a 59 4:03.4 is about the fastest that anyone has gone at K/N with side shocks too... and that's about 3 seconds off the record. The car ran real strong, and I know that it still has more in it, as it felt the best off the corner with the offset t bar. I'll get ahold of one of those medium steel t bars so that I can put the t bar back to offset, and that car should really rock! Of course, the Fusion batteries and the Putnam 19 turn could have had something to do with the new personal bests...:)

FYI...

Well, i raced my agressor again sat. i switched to a protoform intrepid (old style) w/ a small wing (1-side dam). i also tried out the offset f'glass Tbar. the first thing i noticed was a small hop through the corner on the front end. so, i switched to red (RF) white (LF) springs. that cured the hop. i also threw on a silver BSR (50 durometer) RF, because the car still wanted to swing the rear end on entrance. i thought th intrepid body would cure that. anyway, w/ the silver RF, the car was much smoother, and i ended up running about the same speed as last time, depending on the motor put in the car. i got to measuring some things sunday, and i noticed the RR was WAYYY further out than the RF, while the lieft sides were pretty much lined up. i have never run a car this way before, and i figured that explained the agressiveness of the steering on entry. but, this was w/ the centered pod setting and the std length hub. i would need a further inset RR hub to get the car more centered on the rear tire offsets. so, i measured from the centerline of the car to the inside of the motor plate to compare it to my old hyperdrive. i found that i need to run the agressor in the OFFSET pod config to get the 20 (+/- .5) mm distance that my hyperdrive car had in the STD pod config. not sure where the motor plate sits in comparision to the centerline on other cars (KSG, AE, etc), but i thought this might be of interest to other ex-HD drivers...

RC- you could always move the right front out some instead of trying to move the rr in with a shorter hub. Just a thought. I ended up running the left front all the way in and the right front in the middle position, I think that I may try to move the right front in a notch, then try it one notch out further, see what the car seems to like.


I did notice that the motor does seem to sit a little further to the right than a hyperdrive, not that I think that is always a bad thing though.

Either way, I still have had better luck with this car the first day out with it than I have ever had with the purple cars that I ran for years, and better luck than I did with the hyperdrive too for that matter.

Looks like I'll have a few pruple cars for sale, and a hyperdrive too at this rate....

jason,
I am running the front locators in the same locations as you are, which just happen to be the same distance from centerline as the hyperdrive 0700 w/ the RF out all the way and the LF in all the way. i tried moving the RF out thursday night. it helped, but the front end is then too wide to mount the old protoform intrepid. i am going to see if i can find a narrower RR hub, but in the mean time i am going to test the agressor w/ the offset pod position. Not knocking the car here, as i can tell it has a ton of corner speed. i just need a little less steering on entry, and a little more on exit and center, and the car will be unbeatable. As it stands, i am right on pace w/ the track record, which is 2 laps faster than i have gone w/ the hyperdrive 0700....

So let me get this straight, your going 2 laps faster than you ever did with your Hypersled, and now your trying to make the CW as close to your Hyperdrive as possible...WHY???

I love my CW, I ran 2 batteries through it and already have it faster than anything I've ever owned. Now why would I want to make it like the slower cars of the past???

In all honesty, if your running your RF and RR inline, your gunna lose corner speed, leave that RR alone and chase tires for awhile. I think you'll be pleased in the end :thumbsup: .

Later, Bret

I argee with Bret, moving the right rear in is probably not the best idea. I'd go up on the roll center on the right front, add caster, remove camber, any on of those, or all of those should take away some entry steering. Also, moving the rear shocks down a position in the rear cross brace should also take away some entry steering, which could also solve your problem. Also, is the chassis sitting level, or is it pitched at all (less ride height in the front than the rear) because that could also be causing some of your dilemma.

Try some of that, and let me know what you end up with. What class are you running also maybe I missed it above, but that would help me get you in the right direction too.

Hey guys just curious why you run your front ends on the HD and the CW cars shifted to the right? The more I shift mine to the Left the harder the car turns.

on my hd i shift my rf out to get rid of some steering. i saw the customworks car this weekend its a nice car

Hey guys just curious why you run your front ends on the HD and the CW cars shifted to the right? The more I shift mine to the Left the harder the car turns.It would probably turn too much if shifted to the left any more. At LF all the way in and RF in the middle, it turns like crazy!

Just to let you all know I am working on getting some set-up sheets complete for the car so that sharing the information will become a lot easier.

can anyone tell me where i can get one of these car that kicked my a$$ at this past carpet oval nats by the way good run Arnie i think it was only 1 1/2 laps faster than my track record. well if anyone can give me any info on who has them or will have them soon i would appreciate it. i know Todd should be getting some i'm sure but are all those cars spoken for? still waiting for him to respond back to me well thanks in advance, Brad Sousa

Arnie,

Tall Shock ball studs......got any? Bring a few...I'll pay cash......lol Would you prefer to be listed as GM, Ford or Chrysler on my expense report???

See ya saturday....

Peter

racin steve need to get some packs from ya drop me an e mail with what ya got also i never got to say thanks you for all the help at the nats i learned a lot about setup from you e mail me at bringbring97@aol.com thanks, Brad

Hey guys just curious why you run your front ends on the HD and the CW cars shifted to the right? The more I shift mine to the Left the harder the car turns.With more weight on the LF the car will turn better WITHOUT tripping over the RF, ya know that feeling where it's dipping on the RF???

Later, Bret

Bret...yes, yes I do. Now...how to stop that when the LF is all the way in.....

Vwal- I'd try raising the rf camber gain to decrease that aggressive RF feel.

Erock- I started with the front end squared, both sides out equeal amounts, and the car turned WAY to hard for K/N, which is similar to Akron in alot of ways, at least it was when they allowed paragon... I agree shifting the fron tto the left does add steering, but when we already have too much, we go the other way.... make sense?

Brad- Todd probably has more, or can get them. Give him a call, or give him a couple days, he'll get back to you. Either that, or just call Custom works direct, and ask who they have shipped kits to and call them if you want one quick....

Jason,
Makes sense. I guess I just tune a tad different, when I have too much steering I change to a lower steering body like a Taurus or put harder front springs on or harder front tires...versus shifting everything right on the front end.

It was just weird people complain about the HD car not turning enough, so I never heard of anyone taking the steering out of it.

I run the KSG locators on my HD car which are inbetween the Middle and narrow. Seems to work great on about every track I have been to.

I plan on running the new Dodge R/T body soon, I have a feeling on banked tracks like Akron its gonna turn way too hard so I might try shifting the front end over like you mentioned to take some of the body out.

Erock..... That's funney.. I am already running a protoform taurus.......

That should give you an idea how hard this car turns....

Erock..... That's funney.. I am already running a protoform taurus.......

That should give you an idea how hard this car turns....
Dang
Only thing I can say then is, when all else fails take some dual rate out, haha
Take it easy and good luck racing !!

ran the aggressor with the new r/t saturday. it did turn :)
ended up moving the rf out...harder rf, added rf castor and put some l/r back in it. oh yeah...added positive r/f stagger...that car really doesn't like negative front stagger. i've always liked my stuff a little tight on exit, rather than "hookish', and with these changes it was right on.
dk