Kenny see below

Since I cant scan it in here is the setup:

Track: Sandhills, Vass NC
Event: 2005 Ovalmasters
Class: 4 cell Stock
Runline: Banked - 250' ?
Fastest Run TQ: 46 4:00.10 (IFMAR) 4.9-5.3's
A Main 1st place: 46 4:00.94 (Head's up) 5.0-5.3's

Chassis: CW Solid chassis- .095 thick
Wheelbase: 10" short in rear, Middle holes in front
Body: 2000 Protoform Taurus, 1/2" spoiler
Wing: None
Wieght: 40 oz

----------------------------LF-------------------------RF
Tire---------------------BSR Silver-------------BSR Hard Blue
Locator--------------------#2------------------------#2
Tire size------------------2.22"---------------------2.24
Kingpin-------------------9110---------------------9110
Lube-------------------Assoc 30K-----------------Assoc 30K
Shims on top of eyelet----.050"---------------------.020"
Spring-------------------Purple----------------------Black
Sag in spring-------------.010-----------------------None
Caster-------------------0 deg----------------------2 deg
Caster block used----------JPH-----------------------JPH
Pin location (HG Titanium)-Top Hole-----------------Bottom Hole
Camber--------------------2 deg--------------------2 deg
Shims under main block----.080"---------------------.050"
Steering block cut down-----No-----------------------No
Toe Corrector used----------No-----------------------N/A
Toe In/Out--------------------------- 0 deg------------
Traction compound (Jack)---Inside 1/2 only----------Inside 1/4 only

Center
Shock: HPI
Shaft: 36 mm
Piston: #2
Oil:Trinity 55 wt
Ball cup: RPM short
Top of shock: CW eyelet
Spring--- Schumacher Grey
Shock Mount -- #2 from top
Tplate - Finishline Triangle all 3 screws
T-plate - Straight up
Pod - Straight up
Droop - 1/8"
Battery - 1 slot up from rear

Left Rear
BSR Grey
Tire size: 2.22
Shock: CRC shock with stock cups
Spring: Associated Red
Oil: Trinity 35 wt
Hole: Top hole on mount
Traction Compound: Jack full tire

Right Rear
BSR Black
Tire size: 2.22
Shock: CRC shock with stock cups, .020 shim behind each cup
Spring: Associated Red
Oil: Trinity 35 wt
Hole: Top hole on mount
Traction Compound: Jack full tire

Other:
Spur: PRS Prolite 112 T
Pinion: PRS 40
Axle Carriers: Associated #2 down
Left Hub size: 3/4"
Shims on Right side behind spur: None
Shim Left side to make 8.002" rear track
Tweak: 12.8 oz on LR
Radio: 3PK
Dual Rate: 24
LED Color: Yellowish/Green
Monster motor - 2.48 rollout
Speedo: GTX #1 Profile
Servo: KO949 Digital
Spektrum system with Receiver pack
Battery: TQ cells IB3800

Dang Eric, If someone wants more info they would be asking for blood... LOL

haha good one mario, I have learned that giving a complete setup saves about 15-20 follow-up questions though following a quick and dirty setup.

ziggy emailed me and said i have too much time on my hands -- actually that just relates to a slow day at work for me today.

Eric>>>On your 3PK when you won at ovalmasters..What color did you set your led on your radio to???..Right now Mine is set to an aqua color>> any thought on which color would be the best for flat versus banked???

:p

Eric>>>On your 3PK when you won at ovalmasters..What color did you set your led on your radio to???..Right now Mine is set to an aqua color>> any thought on which color would be the best for flat versus banked??

Yellowish/Green, but blue works pretty good at Classic too, so its your pick.
I havent found a good color for flat track racing though. Tried orange last time but the car was out to lunch. I am gonna try Purple next time.

I thought it was yellow for banked?

Yellowish/Green, but blue works pretty good at Classic too, so its your pick.
I havent found a good color for flat track racing though. Tried orange last time but the car was out to lunch. I am gonna try Purple next time.

Yeah sure....Always keeping secrets from me on the flat track stuff... Well check this out...I got this LED stealth filter kit for my 3pk...it alters the color...that way no one can copy my led color...You think Im running blue...but maybe Im just running a yellow filter over the green led...He he he no one will ever know.. or maybe a green filter ofver the yellow...or maybe the blue/clear... always keep ya guessing.. lol

i dont have to deal with all that, i got a spektrum! one color grey with no led.

What are you guys talking about I'm confused as a baby in a nudey bar.

i dont have to deal with all that, i got a spektrum! one color grey with no led.


Good luck...thats all imm going to say about that...BUT FWIW the LED is still on your 3pk spektrum or not..The LED is on top of the screen on the 3PK.. Its a JOKE.. with EROCK posting sooo much setup info I just asked what color he set his LED to on the 3PK...since he had stuff like dual rate and other settings that wont mean too much to anyone without the entire 3PK profile.. so being a smarta$$ I asked what color LED...

nope, i got a spektrum radio, no lights at all. lol.

and i understood the smarta$$ part the whole time.

Well I feel like a dumba$$ now btu I dont have a 3pk o well.

i need more help, went to run today on asphalt with cap tires and had a push problem all day, anybody have an asphalt setup for cap tires? the track is 375 ft trioval with 5 deg of banking.

thanks
john

Many asked about my "flat oval" 19T setup ... find it here ...

http://www.tqcells.com/CW/Salvas19T.pdf
http://www.tqcells.com/CW/Salvas27T.pdf

Steve.
team CW

thanks Steve as always very detailed setup info.

Steve - On the 19 T setup are there 2 springs on the RF or did I read it wrong, and why is the battery tray raised?

Doug P

I'm having problems opening the 19t setup. I can open the 27t one fine but the 19t doesn't come up? Anyone else having this problem. Thanks Michael

Steve - On the 19 T setup are there 2 springs on the RF or did I read it wrong, and why is the battery tray raised?

Doug P


Yeah I was confused by that as well...I was not sure if it was 2 springs or .018 worth of preload shims or something goofy like that..

Steve - On the 19 T setup are there 2 springs on the RF or did I read it wrong, and why is the battery tray raised?

Doug P

Yes, 2 springs on the RF ... .018 inner spring and constant red (with blue wolfe centering shims to center the constant red spring over the .018 inner spring).

It helps limiting the chassis roll over the RF and it keeps the LR tire down under hard aggressive wheel action (like passing cars on turn entry, ie: early apex).

When setting chassis height ... raising the battery tray allows setting the right-rear of the main chassis lower without having the left-front of the battery tray sitting under the minimum ride height. If your running the chassis perfectly level you don't need to do that ... I prefer to set the left-front as the lowest point and the right-rear as the highest point.

Steve.
team CW

Steve - Thanks, very interesting.

Doug P

Hey where's Arnie?

jsrocket: Working on my sprint car for Snowbirds! Boylan is working on a cool trophy for the winner. Gonna be a good time for sure.

I have to give Steve credit for his ingenuity.
First he goes from using 3 different tire dopes on one tire to now using 2 springs.
What's next?
hmm i have a feeling he will show up with 4 side shocks one day.
lol

But doesn't the inside sprinng defete the outside one?

But doesn't the inside sprinng defete the outside one?


Not when a wolfe spring(outside) is LONGER than the inside one. :)

hey Erock...(eric)...this ones from me...been running this for 3 month....Steve...1 week.....

Eric Salvas !!

this setup will give you a stronger progressive feel than a regular progressive spring...it is soft at the beginning...than when it compressed the inner spring...it will get harder....

actually..i've been running two bubba 0.018'' wolfe springs...with a regular blue over it on left side...and an orange regular over it on the right side...

there you go...all secrets revealed.......

the way to setup those..is to use the big blue cup from wolfe on each ends...to hold the springs...the inner part of the blue cup will seat the smaller spring...you should barely compress the suspension before clipping the e-clip

Arnie sounds like fun next year I'll try to make the birds. Eric and Eric intersting setup I might try it one day.

P.S. Arnie where's my 1/12 aggressor? :thumbsup:

Jimmy

I have to give Steve credit for his ingenuity.
First he goes from using 3 different tire dopes on one tire to now using 2 springs.
What's next?
hmm i have a feeling he will show up with 4 side shocks one day.
lol

Just when I start to get things figured out, now I'll have 4 front springs.
.

Doug P

Not to take anything away from Steve, but they've been doing the two spring thing for years at BMS.

*****

Not to take anything away from Steve, but they've been doing the two spring thing for years at BMS.

Hey, I agree! The idea has been around for years...

The 2 springs deal was brought to us (my brother and I) by a fellow racer like 7-8 years ago when he took a manifying glass and started "studying" Kent Clausen's car in an old Car Action ... it had 2 springs on both sides up front ...

PS... I also ran double springs at BMS at the ROAR nats (3-4 years ago) ;-)

Steve.

Steve you gotta PM

Well I thought I'd let you all know second night out for my aggressors picked up the pace with them Valley Race Way in Fairmont WV is where I've been running them, They have 3 pan car classes pro-stock, stock, and nastruck to run pro you have to turn 66, so far the best I could do was 54, 55, second heat I got 64 and was .2 seconds from the A-main. Thank you all for your help. Eric H. I owe alot to you for helping me out and giving me something to go by.

Congrats to Arnie on a great run at sandhills this past weekend.....
Billy

OK looking for some free advice.. Or some advice on becoming free...
I tried the salvas 19T setup this past weekend... Only difference was I ran 3 pinks and a purple rf tire... The car seemed to work pretty well but I had 2 problems which caused me a little concern.. the car was tight..especially going in.. BUT in the center the car had a tendency to pick up the left rear...

To correct the LR situation with a car that was already toght I did not want to just add LR weight... so I ended up moving the battery all the way BAck..that settled the car down some..hoowever it was still tight.. I also removed some shims from the LR>>essentially moving it in .040 ...which helped some as well.. I also adjusted shimming up front...

Question is whats the best plan of attack to free the thing up >>>ESPECIALLY when turning in.. med/hig bite capret, 158ft runline, standard width infield...

The car reacted better with the LR when I shimmed the RF up BUT Im already like .020 worth of preload in it as it is... that coupled with the dual springs I did not want to go much further or the car would always be into the second spring... Would maybe just swithcing from standard red RF with .018 to say a standard green with .018 cure some of the LR lift???

Thank you all for your help. Eric H. I owe alot to you for helping me out and giving me something to go by.

no prob jimmy
like i said sorry i have never raced there and by no means am i a flat track guy but i am glad the car is working and getting better for ya. keep making small changes and you;ll be winning in no time


nice run Arnie at Sandhills, looked like a heck of a main with you and Roman

I have a question concerning bodies in stock. My is pretty quick but it's a little tight. Currently I am running the HD Monte Carlo with the Big Buds wing and no spoiler. What would it do if I swithced to a lower downforce body such as the MD Dodge or even the Bandit Regular Ford.. This is on a snowbirds size flat track with lots of bite. Thanks again, Keep up the good work Custom Works.. Michael Lively

Mike,

First, lose the wing and add the spoiler. Second, you may want to try a MD body such as the dodge. I do not know much about the bandit.

Good Luck!

Take the wing off first and the car should turn on a dime if you are tight now.

If you change from the Proto Monte to the Proto MD Dogde, you should feel less drag overall on the car but in the process the rear end will be free-er.
I suggest a small wing at first with the Dodge body. If its still too tight then try taking off the wing.

Thanks guys I appreciate the help. The way the car is now it is fast broke the stock record at greeneville this past weekend but it was a tick tight. I'll try the MD Dodge with a smaller wing and see if I can pick up some.. Thanks again. Michael Lively

Leadfoot02: I think some of the guys that race with MrFastman weekly and last years stock Bird's winner Steve Peake proved for flat carpet wingless seems to be the way to go. If it were me running stock I'd try wingless, with either Protoform body (MD Dodge or HD Monte) and offset t-bar and off-set pod to help keep the car tight without the wing.

Billy: Thanks, runs like that I can not wait to go back. Top 3 guys all within .8 seconds and less than 1.5 off the track record was pretty intense. After a few laps I knew it was fast, but it was really cool for everyone else to say the samething. BTW I ran the slider chassis and will post a set-up very soon to share.

Fast Is Not The Word For It.

Mike Wassssss Fastttttt. He Broke The Track Record First Thing Then Set It Twice More Before He Was Thru. He Gave Everybody Coming To Greeneville To Get Ready For The Birds Something To Shoot For

Good Job Mike.

Allan A

Good run Michael looks like you got that car hooked up!!!!!!Hacksaw

i ran my slider this weekend and all i can say in almost 20 years of racing this is THE BEST DAMN OVAL CAR PERIOD! thanks to phil maribela for the start up help

Alright Arnie thanks for the setup help, I used some of your advice I got on the phone this past week and it hooked up good. Thanks Allan for a great place to race at. Hacksaw I've been do some good luck here lately.lol I've been close too many times.. See you guys soon.. Michael Keep up the good work Custom Works

OK looking for some free advice.. Or some advice on becoming free...
I tried the salvas 19T setup this past weekend... Only difference was I ran 3 pinks and a purple rf tire... The car seemed to work pretty well but I had 2 problems which caused me a little concern.. the car was tight..especially going in.. BUT in the center the car had a tendency to pick up the left rear...

To correct the LR situation with a car that was already toght I did not want to just add LR weight... so I ended up moving the battery all the way BAck..that settled the car down some..hoowever it was still tight.. I also removed some shims from the LR>>essentially moving it in .040 ...which helped some as well.. I also adjusted shimming up front...

Question is whats the best plan of attack to free the thing up >>>ESPECIALLY when turning in.. med/hig bite capret, 158ft runline, standard width infield...

The car reacted better with the LR when I shimmed the RF up BUT Im already like .020 worth of preload in it as it is... that coupled with the dual springs I did not want to go much further or the car would always be into the second spring... Would maybe just swithcing from standard red RF with .018 to say a standard green with .018 cure some of the LR lift???


kenwood, try a double pink or a white right rear tire... too much rear bight or to much stagger used to cause me the same problem., just my 2%

Yes I will try that as well.. I found a few small things to change this week But hopefully the harder outside tire would keep it from digging in so much...
Ill post results afterwards...the car is close so Im expecting nothing but greatness from it once I get the last few bugs worked out..

Yes I will try that as well.. I found a few small things to change this week But hopefully the harder outside tire would keep it from digging in so much...
Ill post results afterwards...the car is close so Im expecting nothing but greatness from it once I get the last few bugs worked out..
If you don't have it planed already you might try moving the right front in or moving the right rear out to help free up the car going into the corner. What it sounds like to me the car is picking up the left rear because of the tight in problem.

Just my 2 cents