your right...with left whites...we use paragon...but if it is banned...go with pearls...and right side white...or white-grey if car is tight...

Eric

the only other rub for me was/is... the pearls seem to wear down faster than the pink/purple combo... So I usually end up teaming up with my wallet and running pink/purple.. I can get about a week or so more life out of the pink/purp combos..

Ok guys getting ready to hit the rug again need some help for a short flat track about 110' run line give or take a few feet I've got both a slider and a solid.

How wide is the infield?? reason I ask is For short tight tracks I always used steves setup>>>ExceptI ran a little more rear steer and I ran the short wheelbase... At least on my solid car... I was very successfull with that car on hort and tight tracks.. Ive yet to try the slider on one yet..

2 to 3 feet its really tight i forget what Eric H told me since the track is close to the size of or old home track

Jimmy
If the turns are that tight try red springs up front or maybe even a white LF and Red RF to get the car to turn. I would try the tire setup E Salvas mentioned above that should put you in the mix.

36 tooth... hmmm

accept at Sandhills Doug, lol
To run a 36T you would need about a 100T spur and that is too small for me

Doug u got a PM

Thanks Eric i forgot what you had said now the other tracks are wider centers thats want sucks i goin to try to race at 3 diffrent tracks can i stay with the same springs

hey guys any body got phil marebela s # pm me please

What Steering Blocks Are On The Aggressor?

What Steering Blocks Are On The Aggressor?

#8441-Associated On Center Steering Block RC10L

Dave you have PM

yeah its not his number?

I wish all of you fellow Customworks drivers a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Thank you all for helping me out with my new cars they should be running better the next time out. Arnie how about a 1/12 aggressor for Christmas so I can tear every body around here running 1/12 a new one. Tony the boss enjoy your self. Everybody be safe this holliday season. I hope everyone get's what they want.

I think if Custom Works built a 1/12th car it would defenately be a hot item. The only reason why I don't run 12th scale now is because I don't like any of the cars out right now.

Come on guys who wants a 12th scale?

Well Dave you know my vote heck im still running a Trinity Reflexx 12ss. Its a good car but aint a Customworks.

Captain, sign me up for a 12th scale!

Now for my question. Where do I want to place my 4 cell pack on my solid chassis for carpet? All the way to the rear or one up from the rear? thanks

i like mine 1 up

I run mine one up on the banked tracks (Classic and Sandhills)

Do you guys like the new slider? I am wanting a 3rd car and was thinking of a hyperdrive pro 3 but considering a customworks.

Would that be one up for a flat track as well?

Do you guys like the new slider? I am wanting a 3rd car and was thinking of a hyperdrive pro 3 but considering a customworks.

The slider just made a great car even better.

Doug you are right i bought 2 and i love the slider. I've ran mine once stock out of the box was off but I wanted to feel the car out I think its a little better than the solid. But that's my opinion i have to get them both setup up first. They are the best car I've driven I ran all Trinity car before drove a couple of 10l's never liked them i thought they were to twitchy both of mine are planted! Thank to Eric I'll have them running like stink on pooh.

I hope All have a merry christmas and happy new year!!!

Do you guys like the new slider? I am wanting a 3rd car and was thinking of a hyperdrive pro 3 but considering a customworks.


I OWN BOTH.. You saw which one I was selling..the CW slider you can easily put together and not be concerned with gauging all of the parts and reworking them to make everything straight.. the red car on the other hand..my had still hurts from grinding/fitting/and retapping everything.. Not to mention that even with professional help I was still slower with that car than any other to date..

If you want a pro3 Ill work a deal with ya.. But Id be willing to bet a month after getting it youll be back on your ksg..

Slider versus solid... That depends.. My impression having both is that the Solid car is more forgiving in the setup area.. Since the solid actually seems to have more flex Ive found that it is easier to get running fast>> However the slider car really seems to respond to changes in setup.. While I think your setup has to be closer to get the slider fast I do like how it seems thyat every change you make to the car can be felt on the track... Right Im kind of torn between which of the 2 is better>>> Ill give my final answer at snowbirds.. .. ;)

Ithe red car on the other hand..my had still hurts from grinding/fitting/and retapping everything.. Not to mention that even with professional help I was still slower with that car than any other to date..

If you want a pro3 Ill work a deal with ya.. But Id be willing to bet a month after getting it youll be back on your ksg..


Don't mean to be thread terrorizing here, but I just put together a pro 3 and everything lined up fine and I didn't have to tap or refit anything.

Hey - Merry Christmas everyone.

They supposedly fixed it.. My pro3 was one of the First released batches..

i am assembling a new aggressor slider now. i am used to having associated kits. heres the problem, how do you tell how much castor you have. with the associated setups it was done by shims, but now by a set screw. how do i know how much castor i have,,, i.e. how do i measure. thanks for the help.

john mc

If your on a budget then use an RPM camber gauge>>> If you have a little money to burn Id suggest the unity tool setup station...that does camber/caster/toe in.. plus some other stuff and is more precise then the plastic rpm gauge..


JUst sit the chassis on a flat surface>>>Make sure nothing is hanging out from the chassis>CHASSIS FLAT...set camber gauge to desired degrees and slide the arm back and fourth untill the angle in the fkingpin lines up with the angle in the gauge..

Kenwood thanks for the info on the setup station I was wondering about how to get my caster and camber to.

no prob>>>check it out on http://www.unitytool.com/

they have some pics of it...By far the nicest unit out there... The gauges have been updated and marked so that you can accurately dial things in to within 1/4 of a degree.. Pretty slick because it all bolts back together into a nice little carrying case for transport..

The only questionable feature in my mind is the tweak setting...It uses bubble levels...I personally use scales which is much more repeatable...the bubble level is great for setting tweak neutral...but not so easy to dial in an oval car.. lol

thanks alot, used my camber guage and its set. ill post pics of my new car tomorrow.

john

going to race 4 cell stock at sandhills second sat. of january. ive got a brand new set of rc4less grey rears, and a blue and black front. ive never raced carpet, only asphalt and concrete so i have no clue on setup. can somebody please email me a detailed setup... ride height, springs front and rear, shock oils, center shock spring, front end settings, shock hole settings, offset or standard pod, center of offset t-plate. sorry for asking so much, but i would like to be competitive when i go.

my email jmcdo28@aol.com

thanks
john

for 4-cell stock probably want to talk to e-rock hutkay...he seemed to do just fine with his at ovalmasters in stock .. ;)

send him my way if you can.

thanks
john

just PM him...he goes as erock1331 on here...go 2 pages back and there he is.. ;)

Eric cleaned house at Ovalmasters.

here are the pics of my new aggressor slider, its a basic setup with cap tires, but my first race will be carpet.

jmcdo
you got mail, let me know if I left out anything !!

Still trying to find a way to post my Sandhills setup on here. I filled out the CW setup sheet but have no way of scanning it into my computer (threw my scanner away thinking I would never use it ever again, lol)
Typcially I save all my setups in a template I created in Excel. But hobbytalk will not allow you to attach excel files.

I have a question? I have a solid, and was wondering how do you keep the a-arms square? after putting the fron end on the chassis the lowers appear to be toe'd in??

Kenwood

Ijust picked up a unity setup tool last week for 75.00 shipped. Couldnt pass it up.

I used to do it with calipers...But im working on a set of tooling that will hold everything square while you tighten it... The Claim by some is that if you slowly snug each screw it self centers...to a degree yes...but its ton 100% square...I just made some different cheap fixturing to hold everything square while tightening everything down..

But like I said...before that i just used calipers...and adjusted and tightened everything up squarely.. the solid is a little trickier than the slider because on the solid both sides move in and out..

Kenwood

Ijust picked up a unity setup tool last week for 75.00 shipped. Couldnt pass it up.


Cool deal..Its noce to have something that tells you exactly where you stand for repeatibility.. Ill see ya friday..

I have a question? I have a solid, and was wondering how do you keep the a-arms square?

One thing that helps is to secure the front end blocks down with the Associated Yellowish/gold colored screws.

Don't use the Blue Aluminum ones. From what I gather they are a different offset and it doesn't match the countersink holes.

I use calipers after to make sure its all square.

also associated blocks aren't flat on the bottom so you need to put 600g sand paper on a flat surface and sand them so they are flat.

One thing that helps is to secure the front end blocks down with the Associated Yellowish/gold colored screws.

Don't use the Blue Aluminum ones. From what I gather they are a different offset and it doesn't match the countersink holes.

I use calipers after to make sure its all square.

Like Eric said the gold screws are the only way to go.
I've always tightened the arms first and then the plate, never had a problem, but it couldn't hurt to check w/ calipers.

Doug P

even with gold screws and machined lower arms I still use calipers...Were not talking a huge variance...But I like to know everything is square each time I build the car... More of a personal preference than a MUST DO... Ive seen where people run those tie bars between the front castor blocks and really jack a chassis up...so I figure to a degree every little bit helps.. To be honest after you torque the scres a time or two with the thing perfectly centered the chassis will get a slight dimpling in that area...then after that its pretty much money every time you tighten down.. Seems mopre crucial on the initial build than down stream..

Eric can you send me the setup for sandhills i would like to try it at k/n. Here is my email kenneth,boem@sbcglobal.net Thanks Kenny Have a happy new year