try shane at fastlane hobbies in kc should able to hook u up

thanks B Mullins, I ordered the chassis plate there...hopefully shane has it in stock, as his website didnt show whether the items i ordered were in stock or not....

KenBajdek: It does take away the option of running the battery to the extreme rear of the chassis.

MikeM: Can't imagine it would have the older style shock tower.
thanks for the quick response !

Arnie,

Do you know where I can buy a new agressor chassis? the one I have has a slight bend in it. I have been trying to find it online, w/ no luck. Really would like to have it by next weekend..

Scott Johnson

I got my spare from Putnam...518-452-0422.

Has anybody else had an issue with the chassis cracking at the rear battery slot???

Later, Bret

Arnie,

Do you know where I can buy a new agressor chassis? the one I have has a slight bend in it. I have been trying to find it online, w/ no luck. Really would like to have it by next weekend..

Scott Johnson

Scott, do you see a "bend" with the car assembled, or in the chassis alone??? You could have a different issue, for instance, the associated lower control arms need to be machined flat, or there will be a "bend" in the front of the chassis.

Later, Bret

bret,

this was w/ the chassis flat on a piece of glass w/ everything removed from it. the chassis is bent such that it rocks when it is placed upside down, the RF being bent 'up' the worst. BTW, my chassis has a small crack by the left aluminum upright for the side shock plate, right between the rearmost battery slot and the one forward of that.

good point about the lower A-arms...I noticed that last year.

Hey with TONY Winning the "ALLSTATE 400 @ the BRICKYARD"...can we get a SALE on those AGGRESSOR's...

Let's see a Tony Stewart "Custom Works" AGGRESSOR in every garage~ . . just an idea....LOL

bret,

BTW, my chassis has a small crack by the left aluminum upright for the side shock plate, right between the rearmost battery slot and the one forward of that.

good point about the lower A-arms...I noticed that last year.

Exactly where both mine cracked :confused: .

Hmmmm.

I got my spare from Putnam...518-452-0422.

Has anybody else had an issue with the chassis cracking at the rear battery slot???

Later, Bret

I've had mine since november and no cracks in the chassis. Has anyone else had this problem that your aware of?
Doug P

I bought my 2nd car from Scott H... found the chassis to be slightly cracked there after getting it home and taking it apart..... definate weak spot.

Hey Lamballs,

Are you guys running your batteries all the way back? I am not and I don't think Doug is either, maybe that's why ours are ok.

Peter

NO, running the speedo there. The chassis that I have that has damage there wasn't new when I got it... previous owner put it thru the paces and did it. I repaired it pretty good, hasn't broke on me.... but should I decide that I am gonna run that specific car again.. a new chassis plate will find it's way underneath it. Don't think I'll have that specific car out again soon.. the primary custom works will still see use.. but this one will most likly become the replacment parts.

Gotcha,

Just wondering if taping the batteries there could make that happen. Sounds like that chassis saw a little action.

Peter

Actually, it looked like the pod hit the chassis, and caused the damage... he did cut teh right side of the t bar off so that he didn't have to use the small rear steer adjuster.. said it was too hard to get a motor screw in there...... probably the root cause of the problem. But hey, that's what I get for picking up a used car I guess.

I've never had the batteries all the way back, and haven't cut anything on the chassis. It looks like a solid hit, just in front of the wheel could do it, kind of flexy there. I think if I could fabricate a support from the chassis to the shock tower, that might kill 2 birds with 1 stone.

Later, Bret

jet,

Yeah, i was thinking the same thing. I believe that the new side shock tower has a place for a graphite brace that runs down to the chassis in that 'weak' area. Actually, i was double stacking the side shock mount last winter, and felt the difference immediately, so the brace and new design side shock mount should do the same thing and strengthen the chassis at the same time.

BTW, has anyone noticed that the chassis is a little flexible in the area between the RF A-arm and the center of the chassis? i was comparing the amount for flex between the agressor and my ol 0700 hyperdrive and noticed this. Point being, on small bullring tracks w/ tight corners, my car was inconsistent on entrance last winter. The best chassis that i saw last winter on these 2 tracks had chassis 'stiffeners' that ran from around the center shock to right behind the LF and RF A-arms. my thought is that the RF of the chassis 'bends' in various amounts depending on how hard the corner is entered, esp. on tight cornered tracks. I am going to play w/ a new idea to help stiffen the RF up. anyone else notice this problem?

Yes... I've noticed that. Not sure about the bracing.... could work, maybe mess the way the car flexes in another place that needs to flex.... not sure.

I think the easy thing that CW could have done to fix the rear cross brace problem is simple... make the shock mount that goes across the chassis out of 3 mm graphite. The problem I see is that the left side, over the battery is what seems to flex the most, adding a bunch of material around the holes where it screws to the alum mounts would also help. Unfortuantely, it will add weight.... but I don't see that as the bigger problem really.

Jet & Jason,

The right front does have some flex. We have taken a piece of aluminum from the RF caster block to the center of the chassis to keep the RF arms from flexing under load.

jet,

Yeah, i was thinking the same thing. I believe that the new side shock tower has a place for a graphite brace that runs down to the chassis in that 'weak' area. Actually, i was double stacking the side shock mount last winter, and felt the difference immediately, so the brace and new design side shock mount should do the same thing and strengthen the chassis at the same time.

BTW, has anyone noticed that the chassis is a little flexible in the area between the RF A-arm and the center of the chassis? i was comparing the amount for flex between the agressor and my ol 0700 hyperdrive and noticed this. Point being, on small bullring tracks w/ tight corners, my car was inconsistent on entrance last winter. The best chassis that i saw last winter on these 2 tracks had chassis 'stiffeners' that ran from around the center shock to right behind the LF and RF A-arms. my thought is that the RF of the chassis 'bends' in various amounts depending on how hard the corner is entered, esp. on tight cornered tracks. I am going to play w/ a new idea to help stiffen the RF up. anyone else notice this problem?

I have a stiffener I made for both of mine its very light weight and effective. I will post a pic in a day or so.

Doug P

thanks for the responses. I just made a brace up from the upper A-arm hinge pin down to one of the 5th body post holes in the center of the chassis. It added a TON of stiffness to help take out the flex in the caster block area. I have another idea to remove flex from the RF to the center of the chassis, might be a bit radical, but i think it will work. I will post picks of it later..going on vacation for a few days starting tommorrow, gotta pack! :)

Scott, do you see a "bend" with the car assembled, or in the chassis alone??? You could have a different issue, for instance, the associated lower control arms need to be machined flat, or there will be a "bend" in the front of the chassis.

Later, Bret

What's the best way to "machine" the Associated lower arms flat ??

i color the bottom with a silver sharpe the place 600 grit paper on somthing flat and work it till all the sharpe is gone.


why can't you just run a frontend brace that goes between the A arms?

Also I was thinking of the shock tower problem. look at your cars the alumin c brace on the left side if that could be moved over on the chassis that would help alot. i see know need to have that next last cell slot so big. who move there batteries in that far? I have seen the fix that everybody is talking about and it is a real big band aid. I think a stand off would have been a much better idea. and while on a roll I would like to see that last cell slot solid for the speedo.

good points Dave ....:thumbsup: ..... I'm sure the boys at CW are already thinking of tweaks for the next generation.

Rich my car was hooked up at MTR. I ran the long pod set up the car just felt like it really absorbed the table tops. lol ran a 60 4:00.51 and I know that I had more in the car and my driving was a little off on that tight track.

Has anybody tried to run the 10 deg castor blocks?

Does this kit include the standard and off-set diff hubs?

yes and it comes with the symetrical t plate and the L t plate.

good points Dave ....:thumbsup: ..... I'm sure the boys at CW are already thinking of tweaks for the next generation.

I hope so. Maybe they will ask for input. Here is a couple things I would change.

1. The left pod upright. It bends with not much of a pop. Needs to be designed differently.

2. Bottom plate rear steer adjustment. This is just a plain akward designed adjustment and placement.

3. Specific chassis options. Short or long wheelbase.

What's the best way to "machine" the Associated lower arms flat ??

Very similar to what Dave does. I use a new mill bastard file, lay it on the desk and slowly drag the "A" arm over it, checking it with every drag, and adjusting pressure as needed to keep it flat. It takes a good feel, and a good eye to do it properly, take your time and it will work fine.

Later, Bret

OK, I have a question. On this car why would it be neccesary to machine, file, or grind the lower a-arms?

Thanks

it has nothing to do with custom works. they buy there arms from associated and the arm is a molded piece and it isn't flat. which can change the angle of the castor blockand arm. giving the apperence that something is bent. it's not a must do thing just one of those things that bugs me to look at.

Sanding the block can also be a sneaky way of adding/removing caster/camber... for those if us that like to do covert stuff on our cars for noone to see..... :)

So you guys here it first ... Arnie and the boys are working on updates (chassis and such) for upcoming carpet season.

You'll have more details soon ...

Steve Salvas
team CW

Steve, I'm sure you can't say... but are the parts going to bolt up to the old car, or are there changes to pod plates etc. that will not make that possible? Reason I ask is I had planned to get a new chassis for one of my cars, as the older one is tweaked a little... if the new stuff will bolt up with teh old stuff, I'll upgrade one of my cars to the new spec's.

Sorry Jason, but I'd rather have Arnie to confirm all the details ... I'm sure he'll be around this thread soon.

Steve.
team CW

No problem.. Like I said.. I wanna replace most of the carbon on one of my cars anyway, just hoping that the pod plates and other hardware stuff is the same. If not, no biggie, just have to get a new one, and scrap the old one for parts for the first car. ( If you can follow that LOL ) Not that I'll be running it a ton anyway.. it's more for one of my cronies that comes along with me that uaully runs my backup car.

Hey All:
Thanks for all the tips and concerns posted on this thread. For the past year this Aggressor Thead I feel has been one of the most supportive and helpful threads in the RC Web. Sharing the knowledge is what keeps pan car racing fun and competitive, and this thread has been a big help in that. There are option parts coming for the Aggressor for the upcoming carpet season. These will be complete parts that bolt directly to current Aggressor parts, nothing will become obsolete with the current parts, just more options to tune with.

sweet Arnie hey are you going to Ocala?

Good to hear Arnie. Any chance I could call ya up and get all the new stuff.. and a replacement chassis once it's all done? P.M. me and lemme know.

Hi everybody,

Just want to know if the new update will be include in a future complete kit release? Because I will buy one very very soon, so I can follow Steve recommendation :thumbsup: , but if an update version is to be on the market soon, Maybe it will be better to wait for it :confused:

CrazyRonny :dude:

Hi everybody,

Just want to know if the new update will be include in a future complete kit release? Because I will buy one very very soon, so I can follow Steve recommendation :thumbsup: , but if an update version is to be on the market soon, Maybe it will be better to wait for it :confused:

CrazyRonny :dude:

Come this friday, I'll be testing a new slider chassis prototype...

Steve.
team CW

booooo no sliders

Will have anything else new or just that there will be a slider version now?

just got a cw car looking for set up for high bank condrete? bms track


thanks

Will have anything else new or just that there will be a slider version now?

There's more than just the slider batt tray ... I'll try it this friday and will post more details shortly.

BTW. A slider chassis is not strictly about sliding the batt tray, it flexes differently than a solid chassis as well as providing the option to slide the tray forward-backward.

Steve.

I hope this doesn't mean that the solid chassis is gonna get stiffer then what it currently is.. Personally, I think that the amount of flex that it has is dead perfect... making the solid chassis stiffer and offering a slider that is more flexible is probably not the best way to go. If a slider is being made an option,and the solid is going to continue to be as it is, maybe with updates for whatever.. that sounds good to me.

But I have faith that CW has tested whatever it is that they will do, and it will work regardless.

i agree that the current thickness and design is great. of course your goind the chip or break a chassis when you drive into the wall. answer is simple dont wreck

Personally, I'd rather have the ultimate in handling.. before the ultimate in durability. You wreck, you pay, plain and simple. The durablity of these cars is really good anyway.. look at a real race car.... if it tumbles, is it o.k. to drive? Not a chance, so if you look at it like that, we really do have great durability alrready. I don't wanan see it become ultra fragile either, but if it comes down to better handling for a slight sacrifice in durability... I'll take the handling. Good handling cars win way more races then an indestructable car.

Just me. you have to know Jason Lambert to understand him. let me put it to you this way He's a straight up savage!!!!!!!

Hey Steve I am trying to find the right tires to run on carpet. I run for RC4less and we have a very limited experience with these tires on carpet. i am running 19t these are my choices.

natural
pink (35)
magenta (40)
purple (45)

exotics
white (25)
cream (30)
tan (35)
gray (40)
black (45)
hard Black (50)

Last time out I ran

LF cream
RF grey
LR white
RR cream

the car was pretty good but it just seemed to stuck springs I had red progressive fronts and a gold LR blue RR

also if you have to run a oderless compound what would you run? alot of guys down here like Jack the Slipper. I have read were people say you should run what everybody else is running but I wanted the to paragon but because of the smell I choice to go with the paragon traction action figuring it to be the closests thing.

Arnie good to see you this past weekend ...I will call you soon to get ready for some more dirt racing SRM