Points updated on my web site!!

Rafster>> Can you post a picture of the Volvo. I think I will see about reworking the S7 into that.

Bud mentioned the Volvo design for LeMans I shared with him.

Check it out:

http://home.wowway.com/%7Eldmartin/SElemans1.jpg

http://home.wowway.com/%7Eldmartin/SElemans2.jpg

http://home.wowway.com/%7Eldmartin/SElemansf.jpg

If you'd like a rear view:

http://home.wowway.com/~ldmartin/SElemansr.jpg (http://home.wowway.com/%7Eldmartin/SElemansr.jpg)

RAFster
David

Thanks Rafster !!!!!!
What You Guys think?? I think it is HOT !!!!!!!

Do the doors work on it. I would not want to lose anything out of my car!

Everything you'd carry in a car like that would be strapped down Tang, everything else is a projectile.
Yeah, the flames coming out the sides during decelleration would be rather warm...

It's a sexy design.

I like it.

too bad it looks like a Panoz

Good than we can sell it as a Volvo and a Panoz.
Tang>> You still have a job I see NASA was hit with layoffs?

Only if Bud does the wing the same way. I still like the GT40.

RAFster empty out your mail box.

Make a body like the new BMW M3 with a big wing (like the Mazda 6 protoform body). The Volvo will like like the SAL 7 body.

Panoz?

Tang, It doesn't look anything like the Panoz.
Either the original GTR or the later LMP open cockpit design...
GTR
http://home.wowway.com/~ldmartin/98panozGTR144.jpeg (http://home.wowway.com/%7Eldmartin/98panozGTR144.jpeg)

Or the Open Cockpit LMP:
http://home.wowway.com/~ldmartin/panoz2002pic2.jpeg (http://home.wowway.com/%7Eldmartin/panoz2002pic2.jpeg)


Do you find the Chrysler LMP car to be ugly as well?
http://home.wowway.com/~ldmartin/010613_hhc_0033.jpg (http://home.wowway.com/%7Eldmartin/010613_hhc_0033.jpg)


This Volvo design has some cues from the Corvette C5R and some old Volvo
1800ES with the rear hatch-like design of the back. It has a much deeper rear end than Bud's S7 but the original Saleen S7 was also longer in the back behind the wheels and the S7 rear glass came much further back as well.

The Callaway Vette raced a LeMans a couple years ago has
some similarities in the front fenders...
http://home.wowway.com/~ldmartin/vetteRedWhiteBlue2Calaway.jpeg (http://home.wowway.com/%7Eldmartin/vetteRedWhiteBlue2Calaway.jpeg)

Don, email has room...

David

Next Points race is at HT Friday the 11th...the points are tight for 2-4 place!!!

Only 2 more POINTS races to GO!

Friday Feb. 11th HobbyTown Track

Sat. March 12th Classic's


See you all tonight!

OK -- 25 BRP racers last night! The indoor season is winding down, and every racer has improved! The racing is close and we have a dramatic decrees in marshaling!

In every main the top 3-4 racers were only seconds apart!
For the A main:

Rick Knapp – 24-5m04.946 ---- congrats on the TQ!
Don Smolik - 24-5m06.989
Micro_Racer - 23-5m00.763
B main:
1. Dick O -21-5m08.665
2. Rich Dyke – 20-5m00.550
3. Mark Heitger – 20-5m03.368

C main:
1. Marty Barty – 17-5m07.694
2. CJ Davis – 17-5m12.783
3. Nichole – 16-5m04.015

The new track layout is great for BRP business! I counted 6 motors up in smoke!

Sounds good one of the best turnouts yet!!!!

Points updated on my web site...Last race is March 12th at Classis's.......

Congrats to all the ribbon winners :thumbsup:

OK Micro said there were like 6 blown motors on the new layout. You guys may have to change the gearing. We were running 9/48 on the wide open track. From what I understand the new layout is tight with lots of turns. I would suggest going to 9/52.

OK Micro said there were like 6 blown motors on the new layout. You guys may have to change the gearing. We were running 9/48 on the wide open track. From what I understand the new layout is tight with lots of turns. I would suggest going to 9/52.
Bud , CJ ran 8/52 and blew up 2 motors

What can I say !!! Sorry !!!

If the motor is bound up due to lint, bushing misalignment, shimmed too tight it can contribute to burning up that way as well. Tight tracks subject the motor to heavy loads/high amps. Even if the comm happens to slip giving too much advance it can contribute. Lots of things can contribute to burning up a motor. I had one motor out of package that was flakey and when I was going to have the comm turned they found the comm wasn't secured to the shaft and was moving on its own.

Both motors ran fine on the old track.I just think the new set-up is very demanding for these little motors.CJ was in first and started cooking his motor and still finished second so he was happy to get a ribbon.Also a big Thanks to Don for helping him with his motor problem.

Bud i ran 9-52 and still burnt 2 motors on the new track.Jap motors are junk american motors are going to be used.so find a way to make money off them cause i will never buy another jap arm motor from you THAY ARE JUNK. thank you Marty Mangione

I am with you on that one Marty.Bud we want AMERICAN arm motors.

I'm glade I don't make those motors. By the way Chinese not Jap !!!!
Also don't forget You can run any motor You like at none points races :)

The new SpeedFX line of motors by ProSlot and Kelly's are really nice setups. The stock motors are much faster than the Parma motors we have been using. The ideal setup is the Kelly's blueprinted one but it has a soldered in bushing.
The SpeedFX has 20 degrees of timing adjustment but has the means of locking the timing with tabs pressing into slots on the end bell. The end bell design will not go past the motor can when in either range of adjustment. (Not typical of most adjustable timing motors.)
The motor's Chinese arms are known to be less than round out of the "can" as it were. A cut can clean that up/fix that.
Or, a better solution would be to put an American wound arm in the can. They have sealed versions that have the tabs pressed over with the sealing tape being the anti-tamper variety.
The stock SpeedFX motors from ProSlot come with 30 degree arms and look pretty good. Better than most of the Parma arms I've seen.
The motor can has a much superior magnet retaining system and overall is a good motor. The endbell hardware is very nice as well.
The street price at the local hobby shop for the basic SpeedFX S16D motor: $13.99
The Kelly setup is $16 and a typical American wound arm is $20-40.
Matched magnets for the motors are available for $8
(A matched set of magnets generally will provide greater rpms.)
The can screws to the endbell use a smaller screw than the S16D motors
typically do, they need the C can screws.

A little info in case you would like to investigate it or experiment.

Using these cans/setups using the tabs would level the playing field for the Pro Stock class.

RAFster
David

Bud... Listen to RAFSTER... :)

Cut it out guys, your headed toward the the motor of the week. This is the problem with 1/10 racing. Just stay with the Chinese motors and work out the gearing problems. Save the American arms and motors for a seperate class similar to mod.

I ordered some of the other motors to test. NOTE for the outdoor series Stock class will still be the stock kit motors with maybe a claiming rule. We will have a new class called Pro Stock that will be allowed to run some of these new motors.

:D ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ..... darn it all to heck , now I wish I hadn't sold my brp , yeah I wish I had burned it!!!!!!!!!! :mad:

Funny !!!! What is with some of You guys??
Seems like there is lot's of whinning going on all over the place and in lots of different classes and at different tracks????
It is for FUN !!! If you don't like it or don't have a good time You don't need to run :cry:
Sell your stuff burn your stuff but there are a buch that have a great time running. :thumbsup:

Bud , I am not trying to make you mad or complain.I was just saying the new track is very rough on the motors.I went to 8/52 on CJ's car and still cooked two motors.What other gearing options do I have? His car was still pulling on the straight with the 8/52 setup.Both motors never smoked but the comms on both turned pitch black and the spacer on the comm slide in so there is alot of slop in the comm

I heard the track is tight. I hope to be there this Friday maybe We can fig it out.

A few things that may be causing thee motors to burn-up.
More races this year than last year. was 2 races a month, now three plus some practice nights.
The track is smaller and tigher than at the faigrounds. Went from an 80 foot straight to about a 65 foot straight. A lot of starting and stopping.
Especially this new track layout. No sweeper to carry speed and all 180 degree turns.
We're putting more load and current draw on the motors, so they'll run hotter.
Tires are wearing down, so that your chassis will drag on the carpet and make the motor work harder. With the new track more carpet fuss is caught up in the motor and axles, Binding everthing up. Maybe a little more between race maintenence is needed to clean out all the crud that's collected in the car. When the last time you cleaned the comm and cleaned out the comm slots? Brush material will pack up in the slots and short out the comm. You can carefully clean out the slots with an X-acto #11 blade, don't dig into the slot just carefully drag the blade thru several times untill all is clear.

I have found that the gold dust brushes are not all the same hardness, some run forever with little dust, others will fill the comm slots after a couple of runs, look at them after each run and clean them out per Don's post.
Since I check them after every run I have not had a problem, and if a motor begins to noticeably slow this is the first thing I look at.

You got to be careful with the Xacto blade that you don't burnish the edge of the comm causing a bigger problem. The Copper is soft so you have to keep that in mind and clean them like Don said.

The green colored Comm Stick used for 10th scale motors can be cut to a thin stick to use on the Parma S16D motors slipping into the endbell opening. Then applying some pressure with the comm stick while applying a low voltage it can return the comm to a shiny brass comm again. I generally clean the comm slots then the comm and then double check the slots.

The heavy black comm tells me you are arcing between segments really bad and burning the comm. I'm guessing the comm slots are filled with brush material.
It may, and probably would, need to be cut to remove the pitting caused by the
arcing at that level.
The motors are not shimmed properly 3 out of 4 times.

Thought I'd mention...
The SpeedFX motors are shimmed very well with appropriate play and I was really
surprised by the performance and quality of the motor for the price.
I realize they aren't a stock motor but would make for a nice Pro Stock motor choice in my opinion. They are not bad for a Chinese wound motor.
ProSlot offers several versions in their blueprinted ones that have American arms but they aren't cheap. Plus, the blueprinted versions have the bushing soldered into the can.

Does any one know of good American wound arms that are below $20?

Thanks!

RAFster
David

You got to be careful with the Xacto blade that you don't burnish the edge of the comm causing a bigger problem. The Copper is soft so you have to keep that in mind and clean them like Don said.

The green colored Comm Stick used for 10th scale motors can be cut to a thin stick to use on the Parma S16D motors slipping into the endbell opening. Then applying some pressure with the comm stick while applying a low voltage it can return the comm to a shiny brass comm again. I generally clean the comm slots then the comm and then double check the slots.

The heavy black comm tells me you are arcing between segments really bad and burning the comm. I'm guessing the comm slots are filled with brush material.
It may, and probably would, need to be cut to remove the pitting caused by the
arcing at that level.
The motors are not shimmed properly 3 out of 4 times.

Thought I'd mention...
The SpeedFX motors are shimmed very well with appropriate play and I was really
surprised by the performance and quality of the motor for the price.
I realize they aren't a stock motor but would make for a nice Pro Stock motor choice in my opinion. They are not bad for a Chinese wound motor.
ProSlot offers several versions in their blueprinted ones that have American arms but they aren't cheap. Plus, the blueprinted versions have the bushing soldered into the can.

Does any one know of good American wound arms that are below $20?

Thanks!

RAFster
David
Rafster, it is not the copper part turning black on me.It is the metal the wire is wrapped around and where it is drilled to balance the comm is purple inside the drill holes.
Any ideas on that?My son loves racing the BRP car but it will get too expensive if he keeps burning up motors everyweek with the new layout.I don't know if there is another gear besides the 52 to try.Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I think Bud has 7 tooth pinion gears....if not I have one. Someone had a very small fan that they attached to the top of the rear pod. It was a micro fan, or something like that -- the post is some where on hobby talk....that may help with the heat.

the post from EvaderAndy:
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=36485&page=32&pp=15&highlight=motor

I sent him an email asking about his design.

I will bring some 7 tooth gears.
Why don't we change the track slightly for the BRP guys. IT is the largest class by far with 24 entries last week?? What you think Bob? I don't know what it is like but maybe just removing a board or two would help.

Hank has ESC fans on the Hobby Shopper area that are 5V fans,
instead of the usual 12V versions you find, and the prices are very good.
$4 for a fan...
http://www.hobbyshopper.com/extras.html

Going to the 7T as suggested will pull the rpms up and amps down.
All the low speeds and not being able to carry the momentum through
the corners puts too much load on a motor designed for a slot car.

Maybe we need to use motors for the Micro? 8-)
Before you send hate mail, it was a bad joke.

Is this track even tighter than ours (Racers Edge) Bud? We run 52/7 pretty fast and the motors get hot but last pretty good. The motors absolutely can not bind, extra care has to be taken to ensure that everything is free and clean. We've also noticed that those who hit the walls and do alot of restarts run MUCH hotter that someone who gets a nice clean run in. Slow is Fast... and Cool! :D

I have not seen the new track yet. I'm willing to beat there was alot of carpet fuzz being a new layout. You know what that can do when it winds around axles and motors.

Bud, I will bring one of the motors for you to look at Friday.It is weird looking how it turned black and melted but still runs.

See you guys Friday.

Hobbytown race director here

Had a great night last nite.
Here is something to think about on the motor problems were having lately.
.
My son ran my spare brp last night his first time on a road course with a brp we had the thing geared at 9/48 age of motor unknown i bought the car used but the motors got to be at least two years old. His car ran fine as far a heat ive pulled my car of of buds track hotter then my sons was comming of the track last nigth.

Now if our problem is do to how the track is laid out why did my sons motor not cook like an egg in the desert. I realy feel we are not having a track problem but something with the cars or motors.

Now my two cents here

Dont change my track to fix your problem solve your equipment problems if my son can run at 9/48 and not go up in smoke why is everyone else.

He is running the old AA cells they do not put out the power of the 2/3 A cells.
Moving one board solved the problem at least at this point. Like I said last nite do you want 25 BRP racers or 5?? Just for moving one board. I think that is no trouble. I spent $80.00 on other motors to test they did not burn up but were slow.
The thing is ask the racers that ran on the modified track they had a much better time with that board removed.
If you want the board there so be it, Your the race director.
But when you have small turnouts because of a track that is not flowing or fun or blows up our stupid Chinese motors oh well !!!!!!!!!
It is very simple to make that board so it can be moved right back in place for the other cars. We will even move it. Just like the 1/18th truck guys put out the jumps.

WOW -- looks like I missed an interesting night of racing!

Track will be modified but I still dont belive its the layout its just a cheap easy FIX