Who won ??

Micro won but I was getting close and did pass him right before he broke in the third qualifier. In the main I was closing in on him early then I broke.....so for most of the main it was a walk in the park for him.

OK...I just got my RC18T.....what should my first upgrades be? I race on carpet with jumps. I was thinking of going brushless...what do you guys think?

I am told that the motor and ESC in the RC18T is a pretty good setup... However, I'm pretty sure that a brusless will be a better option in the long run. I may not be the best to compare things, since I NO experiance with a 18th scale car that does NOT have a brushless motor in it. My only 18th so far is a XRay M18 with a Mamba-25 and 5400kv motor in it. I haven't had a chance to strech the leggs on my Mamba powered M18... it's just too fast to really pull the trigger all the way while in the house. However from what I have seen, it has very smooth throttle control, and appears as though it's top speed should be quite impressive, but I haven't had more then 30ft to allow it to get to speed, and it's still accelerating at that point... I don't wan to fiddle with no brushes on one of these tiny motors, so for me brushless is really nice.

Well, there seems to be an answer to my question about how long before the Factory Team Kit hits the streets... at least there's a projected/estimated time, acording to Tower, that would be late March...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKAP3&P=ML

They are listing $139... that's with no electronics, etc... which begs the question... would a person just be better off buying the RTR version for $159 and selectively upgrading things like dog bones, etc... I hear the ESC in the RTR is actualy quite good... Don't know about the servo...

Now I have radios, and more or less plan on slaping my Mamba-25 5400kv brushless in the RC18T... but I had thought that I'd wind up putting the ESC from the RC18T into my M18 chassis, when I take out the brushless from that. (the Mamba is way too much power for the M18, in my opion)...

Perhaps the steet price of the Factory Team Kit will be less then the number Tower is currently giving... but then maybe not.

I now see that Assoicated has the Factory Team Kit listed on their site as well...

http://www.rc10.com/shusting/CatalogHub/kitspecs_18t/kit18t.htm

Based on the list pricing... given the same discount as Tower currently has on the RTR, it would work out to $131 on the Kit...

Given that the only subtaintial differances between the RTR and Factory Team Kit are the dog bones and aluminum shocks... It would see the Kit is NOT worth the money... I don't consider titanium turnbuckles, blue graphite battery strap, blue lock nuts, and carbide ball diffs to add much value to the kit... Now if it had the billet aluminum suspension parts, then maybe the Factory Team Kit would be a decent value at $139...

Guess I'll just get the RTR, and hop up as needed...

I like the stock servo in my RC18T, as for the ESC...it is a LRP sport with reverse...

Well, you get a servo, battery, and ESC that can be used, even if you don't want/need the radio. That stuff is worth, probably at least $75 to $100.

Threaded shock bodys and aluminum dog bones will cost you about $32... The Team Kit does have 3 pinions and 2 spur gears, which ads maybe another $13 to the value of the kit... That's say $50 worth of stuff that I'll likely end up buying at some point.

I never understood marketing and/or pricing of products like this... but it seems to me, they are practicly giving away about half of the stuff that comes in the RTR version, if you compare it to the cost of the Team Kit...

Even more new RC18T releases announced... This time, they have announced a RC18MT RTR or Monster Truck RTR version... Basicly it has bigger tires, differnt body, and a differnt motor (presumably more powerfull motor) then the RC18T does...

Me thinks Assoicated is basicly ready to dominate the mini truck market... I spoke with some guys at the local hobby shop, and they basicly say they sell every RC18T they get as fast as they come in...

Wish they would concentrate on just getting a good supply of the first truck !!!!

RC18 brushless, lipo 3 cell, 120,000 rpm is the boss.

DeepBlue,
120,000 rpm is not physically possible in a RC18T.
Calculate the speed of the car if it were.
(Gear ratio would reduce the speed of rotation to that figure...
Then calculate the circumference of the tires to figure how many inches in one revolution. Then multiply that figure by the gearbox reduced rpm figure to calculate
the number of inches in a minute. Then convert the inches to feet and from there to miles and then multiply by 60 to determine mph.)
Sit back and laugh because you'll never get the motor to spin at that figure to drive the wheels because of all the friction losses. Not to mention, heat would melt the gears if you got it near that figure in reality.
Theoretically not possible.
Even 1/2 that number is pushing it, severely.

120,000 RPM? He can't be serious. Who would believe a statement like that?

I know tires at speed runs had a habbit of blowing themselves apart from the centrifigal force on them and those were kevlar net reinforced tires. I can't imagine what some rubber offroad tires would do.

You need a 10,810kv motor to get 120,000RPM, that would fit in the truck and handle 11.1 volts... I haven't seen one advertised yet, have you?

You could ge a mamba-25 Competition X to go 88,800RPM theroreticly...

So who's done the calculation? how fast is that?

TOO FAST !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yeah I bet...

on a serious note...

My 5400Kv Mamba-25 combo is too fast for my XRay M18... and I was thinking of putting it in a RC18T when I get one .

My question is... Has anyone got a RC18T with a Mamba-25 combo that is realtively driveable at top speed? Is the 5400Kv Mamba combo too fast for the RC18T, or should I be considering getting the slower 4200Kv motor for driveablity sake? I don't need to set no speed records, I just want to have fun and not be totaly out of control at the top speed of my motor combo...

I really don't want to run brushed, simply because I don't want to fiddle with these little motors at all... When I get a RC18T it's going to just be for fun around the house/driveway...

I have the Comp X Mamba out of control fast brushless motor. I put it in the RC18T, and it is way to fast for the track. I have turned down the throttel contol on my radio to 45%.....that works great. Whats nice is IF I need to go fast all I need to do is increas the throttle!

These super fast motors are real cool. All we need now is "Chassis set-up in a Can" so the trucks can turn, not just go straight into the wall. "Driver in the Can" could be another HOT item for those who think they can drive.

yea the 18 t is pretty sweet i am thinking about getting one

I'm hoping my 5400 will be OK in the 18T, maybe I'm just being overly optimistic. In my M18 it's oK untill you get past about 3/4 throttle, then the car just has too much speed to be able to turn. I was hoping and/or thinking that the 18T is a little heavier and maybe not as areo dynamic and may NOT reach the same speeds as my M18 does, thus hoping that it will be OK in the truck. Really it's not that it's too much power in the slower sections, just that it gives me way more top speed then is usefull for a car this small...

I've thought about cutting back on my throttle curve/travel of my radio... but I haven't done that yet. Really the only reason I purchased the M18 was to have a test bed for the Mamba-25. I'm very happy with the overall proformance of the Mamba and motor.... Now I just need some bite for the vehicle it ultimately winds up in, which is very likely to be the 18T.

Dyno, the 18T won't be as fast as the M18. On our track a M18 with a stock motor has about the same top speed as the 18T with its stock (super 280) motor. And a M18 with a speed 300 and 6 cells is about uncontrolable.

I wish someone would make some 2 and 4 degree front caster blocks for the 18T.

do u guys discharge your GP 1100 paks after your done using them ? How about between races or are u using one pak per race ....How many amps are u discharging them at ? How many amps u charging them at ? I just got one of these trucks and she sure is sweet ....sorry for all the questions.......Dave

u can e mail me at rcracer3@iwon.com if it's easier

Yes discharge to 0.9v per cell using a voltage sensitive switching and load system:
something like this would work:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5952254437&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT (http://www.qksrv.net/click-1606754-5463217?loc=http%3A//cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D5952254437)

I charge at 3 amps and discharge at 15 amps

I've bought two sets of Associated Ti turnbuckles because the first one had ball cups that were to tight. Unfortanately the second set was just as bad. Is there any ball cups that fit alittle less snug? I really don't have the time to try to break these in as they bind up everything.I just want some ball cups with more play.

its not hard to free them up just snap the ball into cup and shuck it in your dremel and spin it for a few seconds and there ya go its broke in

Still waiting on my kit to arrive. I have plenty of time to get it together and decide which motor to run. My question is: Where are, if any, the problem areas? I could have sworn I've read somewhere the bellcrank link is a weak area. I also see GPM(?) makes an alumnum link. I'm not out for the bling, just looking for areas that could use more durable parts. Thankyou.

Go with a speed 300 6 volt. get the CVD drives and a BRP front bumper and your all set :thumbsup:
If your going to run on carpet You should also get our foam tires.

I've bought two sets of Associated Ti turnbuckles because the first one had ball cups that were to tight. Unfortanately the second set was just as bad. Is there any ball cups that fit alittle less snug? I really don't have the time to try to break these in as they bind up everything.I just want some ball cups with more play.

The problem isnt in the ball cups the problem lies in the fact that Associated made the darn turnbuckles too long and when you tighten them down the rod protrudes into the cup and deforms it.

I'm ordering the stock linkages from the RTR(21053). The FT titanium links are binding my suspension to the point of not working. Perhaps I'll give Lunsford's links a try later this season.

I tried the drill on the ball cups- no good. My tie rods don't protrude as far as I can see. I'm ordering the lundsford. E-mailed (2) associated and no answer today. Also tried calling them - put on hold for 8 1/2 minutes before I got tired and hung up.

Chances are the Lunsfords will be the same since they are more than likely getting the rod ends from assoc. I know they make the rod's for them.

I took my dremel to them this morning. Left one set of camber rods alone and placed them as the steering rods. I cut the rest down to 1.100". (Look at all the pretty sparks...):freak: Still have a ton of binding in the left rear. It's the cup at the hub. Unpop the inner cup and you can compress the dogbone spring with the rod without the cup pivoting! Should have guessed about Lunsford. To anyone planning to cut: Have an extra wheel on-hand, the Ti chews them up!

I can tell you the lunford turnbuckles for the 18t are not the same.I got them yesterday - links are thicker. The ball cups are drilled out so you can screw the ball studs thru the cups. Now I've got two sets of the Ass. turnbuckles sitting it the tool box.

The turnbuckles i got from 1-18th work well ,no binds very smooth and they were only $23 for rods, ends and studs.......so u all should check them out ..................www.one18th.com

Check out Diggity Designs XR-18 conversion kit for the associated RC-18T.
This is great stuff.
http://www.diggitydesigns.com/

So, with their/your top plale you have to cut your old top plate apart from where it would connect to the gear cases?

So, with their/your top plale you have to cut your old top plate apart from where it would connect to the gear cases?
It's not my plate, but yes you do have to cut your old plate off, it's easy
The kit comes with instructions.

We received samples of our new truck body and buggy body for the RC18T. I will post pictures and details asap. The Buggy looks SWEET, and there is room to run a regular transponder in it.

Well here it is the first picture of our RC18T Da Buggy body. Fit's sung all around chassis to keep dirt out. Has a adjustable rear wing mount. Has room in it to run a regular transponder. Will have PN and get it on the web site by next week since I want to do the RC18T- ODA body at the same time.
What do You think???

Sweet body bud.

what servo is everyone running in the kit rc18t? thanks

I've done fine with the stock servo. I have an O-Ring around the servo saver to tighten it up to eliminate the slop.

Hey guys i just got the ready to run 18t and im not sure how long of an initial charge i should put into it....do any of u know?

hey i just got a new 18t ready to run and im not sure how long the initial charge should be....do n e of u guys know????

What type of charger are you using?

I think the included charger takes 3 or 4 hours.I guess iff you want to make sure,,, read the instructions.

I run a stock chassis 18t that i bought as a RTR when they first came out. I have since added mip shiny's in front and outdrive collars and a B.1.rd speed O, along with steel turnbuckles and radius rods on front only. I have just added the front body mount from speedysracingparts.com to fit and allow better clearance for latemodel body. I think this chassis has somewhere of about 3 hrs of racing on the chassis alone. And i think the GPM slick tires from dinball are very affordable and durable. I have double foam in them to make them not roll over as much.

hi i just got the 18t and it keeps turning to the left. i will adjust the trim, but it will just go back to lopsided?...what else can i adjust????