Haven't the slightest clue.


Zig

Hey Duane if yo see this send me an e-mail, I dont have your number anymore.

Dave

Has anyone had problems with the t-plate rubbing on the battery tray??? Thanks larry J

What all are the differences between the new nut and the old nuts? I am thinking it is probably just the hole where the new bushing goes into is larger but I am just curious. I am wanted to get just the new bushings and not new nuts, but I haven't seen the PN for just the bushings and I don't know how big to drill out the hole in the nut. If anyone can help that would be great. Thanks.

What all are the differences between the new nut and the old nuts? I am thinking it is probably just the hole where the new bushing goes into is larger but I am just curious. I am wanted to get just the new bushings and not new nuts, but I haven't seen the PN for just the bushings and I don't know how big to drill out the hole in the nut. If anyone can help that would be great. Thanks.

As far as I know, you can't get JUST the nylon bushing that goes through the new shock nuts -- you need to buy the new shock nuts -- they come with the new bushing as a set.

I've got them in stock -- all colors.

Jeff. :thumbsup:

I don't know if I got a defect or I just built the shock wrong, but one of the two shocks that I rebuilt with the Sylva Concept HPS seems to leak. The nut is as tight as I can get it and it still leaks, could the bushing be defected?

Justin #29

Are you using the o- ring on the cap? maybe using too much oil?

Could be because I am using too much oil, but even when i bleed them, afterwards it still leaks, i'll try it a few more times, then let you guys know!

thanks!
Justin #29

This weekend I heard that the x-factor 4 had a good showing at the Region 3 race in South Carolina and had a good showing at a well attended race here in Indiana.

Larry if you are talking about a wider fiberglass t-plate it will rub on the battery tray extender.

Justin, is the shock leaking from the sides or the bushing? Try filling the shock to the first line in the shock body with oil then insert the shaft, o-ring, foam, ect......

-Monti-

What is different about the new shock caps. I have the HPS shocks they are about a year old did something change with them. should I buy new caps? I have put the "O" rings on the caps that came with the shocks and they seem to work fine.

What is different about the new shock caps. I have the HPS shocks they are about a year old did something change with them. should I buy new caps? I have put the "O" rings on the caps that came with the shocks and they seem to work fine.

There is a new style shock nut. The hole is larger and there is a new bushing that comes through that new hole to better support the shock shaft. There is a LOT less play in the shock shaft with the new shock nut and bushing. Everything else about the shock is exactly the same as the ones you have.

We stock all colors of the new shock nuts -- they come with the new bushing.

Jeff. :thumbsup:

Well, it's actually leaking from the center of the nut, which is where the bushing is, but i'll try putting less shock oil in to see if it'll work, thanks!

Justin #29

If the shock is leaking from the center of the nut, then you are filling it too much and causing the pressure in the shock to push the oil past the o-ring. The shock should not become harder as the shock shaft bottoms out. It should be linear all the way through the travel.

Justin,

What did you come up with?

Well, it is still leaking, like you said Pepe, it could be a defect, because I've tried everything I can think of and it still doesn't work....

Justin #29

I noticed on one of mine that the "start thread" for the cap was up in the sealing area,possible cause?I don't know.

Mine is the same. Not sure if it's it though?

Justin #29

Just looked at my other cars and this is the only one that is this way.

CAR... X-FACTOR
DRIVER... ZIGGY

Beats my 2 year old MOD record at classic of 65 4:00:01 with a 66 4:03,..its about frikin time! LOL GREAT JOB ZIG THE CAR LOOK"S AWESOME! scary part the track is still slow and he had 25 seconds left on his pack!!

cya
frank p.

Well! I've palyed with this shock for three days now and it just plain won't come around,I can rebuild it till the cows come home and it will be flat within 10 mins.It's sucking air from around the shaft.????????? shaft is exactly the same as the other shock in all dimensions.

Pepe: Sometimes the o-rings do not all come with the same dimensions. I have had a few that are a little undersized, and dont swell correctly. Thats probably were your leaking problem is coming from. One thing to keep in mind, is that regardless of what people say, the shocks dont like to have enough oil in them to the point that the shaft extends all the way out of the body.

When you compress the shock shaft the shock should not get harder to push in as you get closer to bottoming it out. If it is then you have too much oil in the shocks. To bleed some of them, out I like to take the old VCS shock instalation tool, from the ASC micro's, the round deal that you used to push in the star clip, and push on the o-ring while the shock shaft is fully bottomed out (use an 0.050 wrench to keep the shaft pushed all the way to the bottom) and apply pressure onto the o-ring untill any excess oil starts to push its way out.

If you do infact have an undersized o-ring, after bleading the shock, before putting the shock cap on spray the o-ring and shock down with some motor spray. The alcohol in the motor spray will help the o-ring to swell enough to get a good seal. Have anymore questions let me know. If you still cant get it send Duane an e-mail. He has been out of town but should be back this next week.

-Dave

Dave,

Thanks for the info,I've tried several diffrent o-rings on both the cap and shaft,and have the oil level down to where one drop is too much and apparently one less is not enough or just right? I guess the question is how does this affect the car's performance if I leave it one drop less than too much? without the springs on the shocks isn't the pod supposed to be level?

Great Job Ziggy! Now bring your $h!t to IN and run on the flat track with us on the 11th and 12th! Send me an e-mail!

-Monti-
Panpizza22@yahoo.com

Dave,

Thanks for the info,I've tried several diffrent o-rings on both the cap and shaft,and have the oil level down to where one drop is too much and apparently one less is not enough or just right? I guess the question is how does this affect the car's performance if I leave it one drop less than too much? without the springs on the shocks isn't the pod supposed to be level?
To be honest all you want the shocks to do is provide consistant dampening all throughout the shocks travel. Not start soft and get harder, it should be linear through all of the shocks travel. Thats all that you should be building the shocks for. Let the chassis's suspension geometry do the rest of the work, thats what that is for. Thare are two many other things that will dictate weather the pod sits level when no springs are there, more so the center shock will have more of an effect then the side shocks, as will the t-plates stiffness.

I know that my shocks are perfect when I can push the shaft in all the way and not feel any resistance in the shock what so ever. You also should not have any air in the shocks, but thats a no-brainer. The shock shaft is going to push out a little bit once compressed, but no more then an 1/16 of an inch, and you want both to be as close as possible.

Dave

You're probably right Dave,I've always felt like the pod by itself, side shocks with no springs and no center shock or rear axle should sit flat with a on center pod of course and symmetrical t-plate, so I'm wrong about this? the way you describe the shock it sounds like a "flat" shock,I've always looked for full rebound,with a smooth linear motion thoughout travel? Am I wrong about this too? I need to read my horoscope more often, LOL.

The angle of the pod has more to do with the geometry of the car itself. Some cars are built so that when the pod is flat the side shocks are paralell to the cross brace. (when looking from the top of the car) But other times the shocks are angled forward, so that when the pod droops down the shocks then become paralell with the cross brace. Stuff like that will effect the pod and car in general more then the shock build.

A flat shock would be one that has air in it. There is no point in building a lot of rebound into the shock shaft because of how the shocks are designed. If you do then you start running into leaking troubles like many people have been having. The shocks will last much longer if you set them up for little to no rebound, and then if you want that real centering feel from the pod, put more angle to the shocks to make them more progressive. Its allways better to have a linear shock and progressive linkages then a linear linkage and a pressureised progressive shock. Thats basic suspension builing fundamentals that I have picked up from real cars, motorcycles, and mountain bike racing that I have done. The less pressure that you build in the shock the longer its going to last and the easier it is on the shock internals. You can get the same feeling just by setting the rear end up correctly.

Let me know if that doesnt make sence.

Dave

Thanks dave for all your help,I will try the low pressure set up and see how it feels it may just be the ticket,duane e-mailed me and offered to replace the shocks but I think I'm going to hold off on that step for now and see how I like the low pressure set up.

Well,I tried the low pressure set up on these shocks and I can say they seem to perform as good or better as the high pressure set up.I would like to thank Duane for the great customer service and Dave for his help with what turned out not to be a problem.If anybody else has trouble I would recommend going to the low pressure set up, it works.

Glad it all worked out for you. We have been trying to get people to understand to ditch the old methods of building shock, that there is a reason to our madness.


Dave

Chassis ? ran with extended pod plates then switched to standard pod plates and the car was EVIL!!!! Any comments appreciated!!! The car was slower and the only thing changed was the pod plates. Unstable not consistent at all. Thanks LJ

shortening the wheel base on any car, will make it more agressive...long wheel base seems to drive more like a caddy.. shorter wheel base runs like a sports car... you will have to re work the setup.. but i think when you get it right, it will be faster and more agressive...

the car was fast at new castle this weekend.. Monti Panzica Tq'd mod with it.. the car looked really good...

Monti was a stilt, definately had the best car in mod and the competition was tough. He was just getting all shaky and jittery because he drank about 4 too many Mountain Dews and 2 too many of those rockstar energy drinks!!!!!

Hays JR

lol!!! He did have the car did'nt he!! Hays, I'll be mailing that stuff to you Tuesday.

Thanks for the compliments guys!

Larry, I would not run the extended plates it changes the natural geometry to much. I wish I could give you a better reason why but I can't. No matter what track you run on, I would recommend running long wheel base with normal pod plates (maybe slide the right front back and play with that instead). If you want a little more room for gears try some Kimbrow off sets for the bearings. Sorry that I could not be more detailed.

-Monti-

The car was faster with the extended pods? I will play with it. I think the longer wheel base would tighten the car up. Thanks larry J

Just curious, how are the people liking their X-FACTOR so far? Thinking about trying one out.

I really like the car and feel it's simple to tune and turns well. The Silvas took the best of the L4 and just made it better. I know there have been many guys switch from other cars to this one and are happy with their choice.

-Monti-

I like to wish Everyone a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

I also want to thanks everyone for the support of our product. We have many new ventures in the works for the next season. So stay tuned.

Thanks,
Duane & Daryl Silva

Can't wait to run my car at stockton, just bought one!!!

Not Important but does a body from a l4 match up.

I would say no because it uses a different cross brace. But I am not certain either.

-Monti-

Monti could you post your setup for mod at NewCastle. Looks like I will be running with you next week. Hopefully I can get a kit before then. Also is the front end wider on the IRS car than the L4

Phil

Phil,

I think the front end is the same as the L4. I do not have an L4 to compare it to so I can not answer correctly.

As for a set up shoot me an e-mail and I can get you close. Panpizza22@yahoo.com

-Monti-

Ran the car at stockton this weekend in 19 turn at the carpet champs race. The car works awesome, made the A-MAIN on saturday and finished fifth, Won the B-main on sunday. Lack of sleep and patience didn't help on Sunday.
Needeed a little more HORSEPOWER and a little more TUNING to keep up with Hamilton and KC. Any set up help would be appreciated. Thanks George.
(mitchellroar@comcast.net)

Also i would like to thank Jake Rosen and Dave Wert for the horsepower and assistance this weekend, You guys got me in focus again. :freak:

How can you stop the Silva shock leak???

Read my posts about bleading them.

Its a page or two back.

Its not the shocks its the build, let me know if you have any more questions.

DW

Is IRS the only ones selling the X-Factor or do some online hobby shops sell these too?

People that have been running the car...how do you like it? I haven't read alot of comments on this car and would like to hear what people think about it.

Thanks

RC

RC: We stock the Silva Concepts line up at our shop, including the X-Factor. Shoot me an e-mail for the price.

jphracing001@aol.com

Jake

Does anyone run this conversion? I can not find much posted about it.... I'm going to be selling a KSG and was considering trying this conversion ......just wondering what people think about it. Is it that much better than a stock L4? If so, how so? Thanks for any info. and comments


Thanks

RC

Sold my 2 month old KSG and bought this kit. I think the car is awesome. The Geometry is differrent than the L4. More tuning options are also available. :thumbsup: