Had a sneak peak at the V2 today. It looks a little like the Pro, but in blue fiberglass. It will use the 2/3A size batteries, and the same front end as the SC-18. The main difference is the T-plate, and the ball joint connecting it to the chassis.



We will see it’s track debut on the 14th…..the word is that Bud is putting in a Speed 300 to whip on Wayne!!!!

:freak:

I dought that !!!!!!!!!

Bud... why would you wanna whip on your most valued customer??? Besides, it's gonna rain!! Looks like the next race day will have to be a 2 day event with 4 races!!

Yes when the weather said sunny I got worried. But I think we will be OK.

SG1 you know you can't count on the weather for an entire weekend. It would have to be a marathon day of racing with 4 sessions of racing back to back. So, if we can start at 11 and finish 2 sessions by 6PM then we would be racing 4 sessions until 1AM or 2AM by the time you stopped for dinner...

RAFster

The SC18 V2 had a good first race! Will do some fine tuning and get a conversion kit ready for the last race.

The V2 looked smooth on the track...the only bad news is you have to buy the GOOD 2/3A cells -- lots of $$$$$ -- Bud are you going to carry the cells you ran?

I think the standard KAN cells will be OK I will test them one day. I just did not change that pack all day and they were pretty fast. I did nothing to the car all day just re charged the pack and that is it. I want to set up the timer one day and really tune it in.

Bud,

Do you anticipate the V2 utilizing full sized AA cells in the V2 as well? Similar to the Pro...or, is the height of the T-plate's pivot ball setup too high?

Also, is the V2 going to be considered a modified or stock car?

RAFster

No it can't use AA cells.

Let me know when ya have a pic, Id love to get a gander. ;)
We had a M-18 show last saturday.. impressive.
Looks cute, nice body, nice paint job... GOT LAST! but not as bad of a beating as the micro RS4 got.. we gave the micro RS4's a 5 lap headstart handycap.. should have been a 17 though I guess... the X-Ray didnt want one.. but only got laped 8 times.
Ohh not slamming the micro Rs4.. so fans of em dont get upset... perhaps they didint have a good setup??? but they quit after 1/2 of the 2nd heat, and the X-Ray M-18 got last of the ones still running... but all in all I thought it was pretty neet... can the parma S16D be made to fit one, or what mod will get it up to SC18 Stock Speeds?

The only mod that works for the M-18 and the Micro is to sell it and buy a SC-18!

I have a M18 for sale !!!!!!!!

So Bud, to repeat Rafster's question, will the V-2 be considered stock, at least for competion purposes? Or would an entirely new class need to be considered. How about something in between the SC-18 and Mod, say the V-2 with a modified 16D motor? It would be able to handle the extra power, yet not be silly fast like the speed 300's.

So Bud, to repeat Rafster's question, will the V-2 be considered stock, at least for competion purposes? Or would an entirely new class need to be considered. How about something in between the SC-18 and Mod, say the V-2 with a modified 16D motor? It would be able to handle the extra power, yet not be silly fast like the speed 300's.
I like that idea....we could use S16d arms and twister cans.....

Is the Trinity Twister better than the Rotor can by Parma?
I think I know the answer to this in part since the Slot Car City uses this as a basis for their C can buildup it is thought by them to be a good can out of the box.
You end up with an adjustable timing can with either the Rotor or Twister and then by matching different arms with the can you end up with an endless combinations of timing based on armature timing and can timing. (The motor performance is going to be fairly limited to a certain range depending on gearing and overall timing.

How do you find the sweet spot for setting the timing and how do you determine what armature will work best??

David
RAFster

So Bud, to repeat Rafster's question, will the V-2 be considered stock, at least for competion purposes? Or would an entirely new class need to be considered. How about something in between the SC-18 and Mod, say the V-2 with a modified 16D motor? It would be able to handle the extra power, yet not be silly fast like the speed 300's.
BUD, is it mum's the word for now?
Or is the jury out...?

He named it the SC18 V2 so one would presume it may be stock instead of Mod since it is an evolution of the SC18 not the Pro V2.

David

It will be considered stock!!! The stock class this coming indoor season will be allowed 2/3A cells SC18 and SC18V2 chassis. You can also run the 2/3A cells in the SC18. There are lots of 2/3A cells to choose from out there more that AA cells. It will still be all the other standard rules for stock.
I hope to have conversions ready for the last race at Da Track. Price will be between $35.00 and $45.00 :) So save some money :wave:

Yeah! A new Stock chassis and batteries opened up for Stock class.

It will ratchet up the competition but, it also can increase the price of competition in stock class. Not unlike that of other classes of racing.

Bud,
Can AA batteries be configured to be used in the SC18 V2. I realize that it will not be a flat pack in side by side as is used in the SC18.
A pyramid on each side would work but the batteries would run hotter as well as the center of gravity being raised. Is it feasible?
With a stiff battery bar you could build up a pack with a hump over the Tbar with the two center cells in a side by side configuration.

Are the newer 2/3A cells such as the GP and new MH cells capable of delivering more voltage than a good AA Nicad?
Does the slight reduction in weight of the 2/3A NiMH cells and their performance equal that of Nicad AA cells?

David

I like the V2 chassis, but I am not sold on the 2/3A cells. Plus I finnaly have a stock chassis that I like! This winter should be a good series.

Bud -- what is the winter schedule looking like?

Have no idea yet need to find out HT schedule first.
Bud

I like the V2 chassis, but I am not sold on the 2/3A cells. Plus I finnaly have a stock chassis that I like! This winter should be a good series.

Bud -- what is the winter schedule looking like?
Micro,

Do you mean your current chassis in the one you like...
Curious as to what makes your current chassis better than
previous ones?

Hopefully the winter series will be a good one with plenty of races.

David

David -- yes my current stock chassis I really like....it has many small mods that I have picked up from other racers, such as Wayne, Pat, Don S, to just name a few. It's the little things that make you FAST!

Only about 10 years of practice will make me FAST. :jest:

Care to share any speed secrets?

RAFster

yeah Micro what about some speed secrets

What share secrets with his main competitor of the big trophy!!!!!

I guess you have to start not hitting any pipes or any other cars and not scrub off speed... :D

Sure Andy will share his secrets. After he beats the pants off of you. See you in sept.

Here's a big speed secret, watch out for Wazzer. Last race he had the quickest car all day, took the tq for road course and was all over my bumper on the last lap for tq in oval, we went into the last turn with 2 other cars and I luckily made it out of the turn, I could not have held him off he was definately faster. He hounded Bob for 111 laps in the main and when he touched a tube Wazzer was around him on the last lap for the win.

Yes good point !!!

correction to my last post, Microracer had TQ for road course, Wazzer took TQ in sprint and the wins in sprint and oval.

Yes, Wazzer came to BRP World Headquarters looking to return to Michigan with a few ribbons to weigh him down. He's a contender...

SO tune'em up boys and girls, we gonna to have some heated racin' come September 18th. If there is weather it will evaporate in steam clouds???

Warbird, you better let work know you are going to be on vacation and can't go anywhere for that week prior to the season finale. That way you won't miss the fun.?

IT is going to be a fun one to watch.

RAFster

Bringing the new V-2 here to indiana sept 11... Hmmm cant wait to see it in action. ;)
IM saving for 1 or 2 already.

OK...been out of the office for a few days....If you are looking for speed - check out my web site...I will post more after the BIG 1st place trophy is handed out! And yes I did take TQ for road and was a lap up on the field when my servo tap gave out :(

I think I have every thing ready for the next race. Only 2 points from that number 1 spot.....Andy better bring his A game with him!!!!

I think I will concentrate on bringing good motors with me this time, total count for burned up motors last race was 4.

Yeah, it only took me 2 1/2 seasons to finally get up to speed. And some of us don't live too close to Da Track for all of those "practice sessions" either.

And then, just when I start to get a handle on it, wham, Bud comes out with a new version? Oh well, I least when you buy BRP, you know you won't have to worry about breaking anything, and you certainly won't need any hop ups to make it work. Best money I ever spent!

What is yet to be seen is if there is a competitive advantage of the new V2 over the older chassis. I think there is little doubt about it because the new design is better balanced out of the box.
I wonder if the new Tplate design will be more prone to breaking. My 10LSS I"ve been racing at CORCAR this year has sufferred two broken Tplates. It is probably not as strong as Bud's 064 material, but they were 0.062 thick.
The 10LSS is much heavier than the BRP and the design is different.

The Crash Test Team should not test this one too hard... 8-)

I think Bud should see if he could get a supplier/maker to provide him with some lime-green chassis material for the new car. It would be distinctive...maybe a limited edition run?

Michael, instead of a Twister or other adjustable timing can, how about a 25 degree American wound arm in the "stock" fixed timing can. That would increase performance at the same time as making it manageable.
Then again, Bud doesn't tech the motors now and there is probably some greater than stock timed motors being used in stock.

RAFster

The weight (depening on the track) shouldnt hurt it bad, the aluminum chassis I have one my sc-18 makes it weigh more but didnt hurt the top end.. just the punch out of hole experiance.
Bud quit teching the motors for the kits or at Da track?
Its neet to get a fast motor with a kit over getting a pooch that ya have to dump or mess with... over all the ones he sent me seem to rock and roll well right out of the box.... so far. ;)

teching motors at the races to ensure things are legal for stock class.
XP magnets, chinese arm at 25 degrees, etc...

Ahh ok I see.
Hmmm so far no on here is running a diferent arm that I know of but the XP magnets her are legal.. Bud's hand picked motors have em I think, and a couple of the guys run them. I seen Pama has other motors but with difernet colored endbells... the arms interchange? never messed with em but I had a guy stop over to see if I would buy some used ones and there was 4 diferent colors... I passed on em... didnt think they would be better or faster??

Bud sez that these are the fastest 16D whole motors that Parma sells. I presume that means that other arms from Parma are not as good, although some others sell better ones.

Since the motors all look alike and the arm is visible, teching them is easy if no one starts into twisted commutators.

Motors – you have many different arms, brushes and cans to choose from (non legal in stock class). The best place to get info on the 16d motor is on slot car web sites and forums.

Arms – RJR and Fast Ones seem to be the most talked about on the slot forums. I have tried (in mod class) the Fast Ones S16d 45 degree arm. The arm was trued and balanced.

Cans – the Trinity “twister” can seems to be the “can” to have

Brushes and springs – the gold dust and the big bear brushes are said to be the best with a stiff spring.


I put all 3 parts together - twister can, 45 degree arm, gold dust brushes with stiffer spring on positive side – and found that motor was very fast!

The Twister, Midnight, and Rotor cans all have adjustable timing... The stock Parma can does not. From what I've been told... So, popping a 45 degree arm in the stock can will give you a motor not suitable to our use because off throttle will have a ton of braking action. Around 30-40 degrees timing is the most you can deal with in the stock can, going to the adjustable timing cans you have more range of adjustment.

I've tried the RJR and FastOnes Big Bruiser arms in mod motors. They have gobs of torque due to their larger diameter arms. The air gap between the motor and magnet make them a little less than eager to spin up though. On slot cars they are killer, but not so killer in the SC18. I have used 36 and have a 32 degree arm of this make... I've not tried the 32 degree arm.
The FastOnes arms are a little better balanced than the RJR due to smaller operation and not as much of a "production" environment.
The RJR are more of a big manufacturer like Parma.

Kelly's is another small name in hopped up slots I've heard pretty good things about.

The Chinese machine wound arms, like the PARMA ones are not consistently wound and the windings are even and straight. The American wound/made arms are much straighter and as a result provide a better magnetic field and comparing an American wound vs Chinese wound, the American wound will produce more torque and power every time. (windings and timing being equal on the arms)

You can get evenly matched magnets in the XP magnets. They aren't necessarily stronger but they are evenly matched resulting in smoother motor performance and more rpms.

Aligning the brush hoods with the comm pays good dividends on these motors. You also don't want the brushes to hang up in the hoods of course.

Don't go too heavy on springs or you will burn up the motor.

Then you can go crazy and do things like buy can tools to align the cans to a consistent shape to maximize the magnetic field and center it on the armature.

FWIW...

wazzer hit on the important key, practice. You can have the fastest motor on the track and it does no good if you hit the tubes. If the turn marshall is slow getting to your upside down car you will lose a lap at Bud's. Should you then start yelling at the marshall's to get a move on? Keep in mind they did not drive the car into it's upside down configuration, you did. Bud's mantra is "Slow is Fast" there is a reason for it. Once you concentrate on smooth driving you will pick up speed using the same motor and batteries you are now using. As far as parts breakage goes, these are the most bullet-proof cars I have owned. If you drive over your head and crash often, stress will finally take its toll on any car. Micro's twister can setup is also the same one I use, makes for a very fast reliable mod motor.

Warbird and Wazzer mentioned that important part with these cars.
You have to be smooth to keep from scrubbing off speed and stay off the pipes or you kill the power output. You can see it at Akron if you mess up a line and try to tighten it up too fast you really kill the speed of the car.

I bet Bud and a few others can take just about anyone's setup and drive it through the qualifiers and put it in the A-main. He probably won't be on pole but, he will be in the A main based on qualifying.

As has been said...It isn't equipment that puts you in the A-main, it is skill developed by practice. Where that practice occurs isn't cruicial but, it can help.

For the mod guys, it is skill and equipment does come into play. I have seen a stock motor do reasonably against mod motors in the hands of an excellent driver.

David

Driving skills are important, but having good equipment makes driving easier.

I agree, you can be the best driver, but if the setup is off you still will drive like garbage. Skill can not overcome a bad set up. Get the car setup first then practice, practice, practice. But will we beat Bud or Wayne, time will tell.

Will we beat Bud or Wayne? uh, if they were wrecked enough...
I mean, if they wrecked enough it could happen. :cool::jest:

RAFster

HMMMmmmm much good info there, a lot I didnt know about the motors, winding, timing, brushes & cans.
For the In State Race we will have to check em out.. perhaps Bud or another expert can se we all have a fair chance.
I left it open for the type of battery ( 6 cells only ) as we have several diferent ones I have seen here.. built in difeerrnt ways and various types from 1000ma to 2500 ma.
Bodys are open and up to the drivers, as long as they are 18th scale.. like 1 example a driver has a micro rs4 body on a Buds, and another has a ??? McAlister mod? but its for a 1/18th scale Mini T I think he said.. but thought that was ok.
Hmmm a couple have bycicle inner tubed caped buds foams and do well.
I know none of these guy have anything other than the box stock motors or a Buds Hand picked water diped in thier racer... we all have a pretty equal chance to get the TQ and Win.
Practice and setup has been the main winning combo.
Some of these guys are EXCITED and some are SCARED knowing some of the BEST 1/8th scale drivers are comming here to race.
Told em to just do thier best and enjoy the rest.. who knows the Indiana trophy might just stay here in Indiana or perhaps will travel away, but the FUN of mixing it up with other fine drivers will be a BLAST.. and after all the winner will be called the BEST for 2004 and the Indiana State Championship WINNER.
All others can just read about it on the sites. ;)

In stock class we ALL have a Bud's motor -- all other cans and arms are only used in mod.