. . . the FUN of mixing it up with other fine drivers will be a BLAST.. Is it OK if I come anyway? :)

I sure hope so... the more the merrier :) Most of the fun of the 1/18th on this track is the shier numbers of em we can get out there.
The 1/10th scale usually (but not all drivers) panic when there is over 5... and we can do a feild of 10 easy. ;)
(thats all my AMB can count up to untill next year.. hope to get the new digital)
Then maybe a feild of 20!!! AAAAAAAHHHHHhhhhhhhhhhhh Yea BABY that'll get the ol adrenilin flowing.

I did get some laps with the mod today ( Speed 300 ) with a 9t pinion and 45 spur (SC-18 Funones) I sprayed silicon spray on the RF (Blue) and left the LF (blue) dry... loostened the rear pod up more and had orange in the Rear.
Didnt have a transponder charged but it was the best run with a mod I have ever done yet.. did 12 laps strait untill I lost it and crashed. Only broke the T-plate this time.

Hay Bud how many V2's do you have ready? And more important how many 2/3A cells do you have?

Guess I better stock up on some of them... Hmm GP or Sanyo 1800ma should get it.
I tryed the 2500 AA I got in... Hmmm they are a bit lacking in punch, but ya can wear out the radio stearing knob trying to run em down.

MICRO RACER... Don't forget POWER PUSH has 2/3 cells too!!! I'm stocking up for the trip to Indiana!!!

Yes POWER PUSH number one !!! Ad told me so in magazine :)
I hope to have several for Ind. will see how things go this week.

AHHH the power of ad's...and if sg1 uses them they must be good...

Yes, SG1 may not be a World Champ but National Champ ain't just whistling Dixie. The KANs aren't as good as some of the batteries Power Push has...

I had a dozen KAN1050s Tony zapped for me. The numbers were all over the place
and in general were not that good. That is the general lot of things as far as the few thousand KAN1050s Tony has processed. I dare say he has thrown out more KANs that didn't meet quality specs than I could ever use in a lifetime of racing running new packs every race weekend.

OK got my hands on a V2 today. Hope to do some testing Thursday.....Bud is the front end shorter than the orginal? The servo plate sticks out and the bumper has much less room to screw on....

Bud has some GP 1100 2/3A cells....nice and fast for the V2!!!!

I have my V2 put together now, so I think I am going to run stock motors this winter. The Mod motors are a little to much for me to handle successfuly.

My V2 is ready to go...(thanks Bud for the parts). Stock should be a fun class this winter!

Does anyone have a complete description or pictures of the V2? When will it be available to the public (nothing on the website)?
Thanks,
Ross

I hope to have it on the web site soon.

Bud: I have a (probably dumb) question on the V2 assembly. is the T plate supposed to be level with the chassis? I have front screw with 2 nylon washers under T plate, the pivot ball makes the rear alittle higher than front. There's also some play up and down on the pivot screw. As best I can tell from assembly pics it looks right, but thought I'd check before going any further.

That's the nice thing about this Forum....got a question? Ask da Man himself!
:thumbsup:

This sounds like it's about time for Micro_Racer to put together a new book (hint, hint) :)

The v2 I built has a level T-plate and the pivot ball should be snug and smooth in movement. Also the bottom plate should even with chassis plate.

Make sure you polish the steel pivot ball. Put a long 4-40 bolt thru it and tighten it with a nut. Then chuck it up in a drill or Dremel and use a good metal polish-Simichrome, Flitz, etc. It should be nice and shiny. Assemble with just a touch of diff lube.

Thanks for your help guys....I must have something pretty SNAFU. My steel pivot ball rattles around in the two black pieces like a peanut in a tin can. Even if I tighten the 4 screws right down tight it still moves up & down.
I have the round black plastic piece on top with 4 nubs for the screws up, then pivot ball thru T plate, then other round black plastic piece on bottom with screws going up, 2 long ones in front & 2 short ones in back. Sound right?

I have the round black plastic piece on top with 4 nubs for the screws up, then pivot ball thru T plate, then other round black plastic piece on bottom with screws going up, 2 long ones in front & 2 short ones in back. Sound right?
K1m

If I'm reading this right it sounds like you have the bottom black piece under the T-plate. Both black pieces go on top. Piece with round bottom goes into hole in t-plate, than pivot ball, than top piece with nubs up. Screws go in from bottom side of T-plate. All that sticks out from the bottom of the T-plate is the screw heads and the bottom of the pivot ball.

Thanks for your help guys....I must have something pretty SNAFU. My steel pivot ball rattles around in the two black pieces like a peanut in a tin can. Even if I tighten the 4 screws right down tight it still moves up & down.
I have the round black plastic piece on top with 4 nubs for the screws up, then pivot ball thru T plate, then other round black plastic piece on bottom with screws going up, 2 long ones in front & 2 short ones in back. Sound right?
I did the same thing! (Darn Bud instructions with crapy pictures) Make sure that both black pieces are on TOP of the T-plate!

HEY!!! That's better! I knew it was something dumb. Yeah, I had the black pieces sandwitching the T plate. Duh! Oh, man...now I gotta take it back apart and polish the ball...:p Can't wait to run this thing now. I think the body post positions are going to be the same as the SC18. Nice touch Bud!

You guys should know that!! Look at the picture real good.
K1M>> You can space the front screw slightly to get plate level. The batch of balls I got are slightly longer.
I try guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Micro >> thats pretty bad that you did that since you had the opportunity to look at a chassis and even find a long screw problem. You better watch it or team Ion may boot you :thumbsup:
Kick it at Freddies

I know ...... Team Ion can't boot it's star!

Bud, apparently these guys haven't ran Tplate pivot-ball pan cars before. That is a base knowledge mature racers who have ran the rocketships in 12th or 10th that feature pivot balls would know. So, it is inexperience with a pivot ball design that led to the mistake.
Heck, my first 12th scale was an Associated 12I without a pivot ball or Tplate and it had a monoshock front end. I've not raced more than I have over the past 18 years...
Better to find the mistake now than to need modified instructions after the car is released and in production with everything printed.

RAFster

Are the Anodized Pivot Balls worth the upgraded price of around $9-12 for 2?
Wolfe Motorsports makes a pair of blue anodized pivot balls that are part number WM180-141 I believe. They run $9 at AAA Model Supply in NE Tennessee.

Then RPM makes a pivot ball of Delrin made for shock ends that looks like it
might work as well. Not sure on it if the lengths from the center of the ball
are the correct heights.

RAFster

I would use the stock one or the delrin if it works. The anodized one just look cool

Just use the stock one!!!!!!!!!!1

The stock setup works sweet when you put it together right! We've come a long way from the "o" ring already! I'll post some pix later. You guys know mine will be a Version 2 Fun Won - V2FW!

Maybe some of the "mature" racers will share their knowledge of the use of the tweak screws when I try to set this mini racer up. :p

Decent writeup of Tweak on One18th's site...
http://www.one18th.com/articles/chassistweak.php

RAFster

Pics of my now correctly assembled :rolleyes: V2!! Note: The antenna mount was added by me....everything else is what you'll get with the V2 conversion.

RAFster: Thanks for the links and info.

Thanks, everyone else too. The pivot ball suspension is smooth and tight!

Looks good!!!! K1m When you have the rear bottom pod plate all squared up super glue it and the spacer plate to the T plate. This will prevent any shifting in those big wall hits. I just do the outside edges.
Hope to have the SC18 V2 on the web site this week. and the complete Kit by middle of Nov or so.

In the same way you loosen the screw for the crush on the Oring for the SC18.v1; doesn't the tension on the pivot ball affect the rear pod in the same way.
The nice thing about the pivot ball is it won't change as much as the Oring will.
The Oring takes a set from being crushed and is not be as consistent as the Pivot ball.
The pivot ball gives a nice smooth consistent feel.

Bud, sounds COOL! look forward to seeing it on the site and taking another look next weekend at the full scale version.

RAFster

oh man... i must have been sleeping =) i need to get in on this action here1

okay stupid question here, I am thinking of buying one and making a track for it how narrow could I make the lanes and be too narrow. Will probably have four cars at a time on it.

I would not go less that 3 ft.

The SC18 V2 is on the web site. Complete kit coming soon!! SC18 V2 (http://www.brpracing.com/18supercar.html)

Thanks Mr. Bartos and as far as the other post about no one remembering you and all you have done. I remember you sent your pre-entry in for a race at Hi-tech hobbies in Cincy around the early 90's and you would of thought the president was going to make a visit their. That's all people talked about for a month then you showed up and they talked about you years later. Glad to see you still kickin butt.

So they should have paid that entry for Me :)
I wish I had a $100.00 for every trophy that I won over the years I could retire or maybe if I had all the $$ it cost to win them I could retire :thumbsup:
That was a great oval track down there.

OK Final Thoughts on the V2.



I have 3 races under my belt with the V2 chassis. I admit I wasn’t in a big hurry to change from my stock chassis. Let’s face it; it took me 3 years to understand/tweak the stock chassis. Lot’s of small modifications were in my stock chassis, a shim here a re-design their. And that is the beauty of the V2 – out of the box it comes with the pivot ball and tweak set screws. The plastic battery tray is replaced with a full fiber glass chassis that now accepts the much better 2/3A cells. The car is great in the corners and smoother in the straits.





If you don’t have the V2, I would HIGHLY recommend getting the upgrade kit, or you can now buy the full V2 assembly.

:roll: :roll:

Yes I watched the stock class and the V2 looked good out there. I think a big part is the new 2/3 A cells that seem to be faster.

I have the V2 Assembly Guide DONE!


If you would like a word copy, please email me. It is 11MB, so if you don't have high speed internet please wait for Bud to post it on his web site.


:)

can u order a new v2 in kit form

Hope to have it ready in a couple of weeks.

I have the V2 Assembly Guide DONE!




If you would like a word copy, please email me. It is 11MB, so if you don't have high speed internet please wait for Bud to post it on his web site.




:)
if you send it to me, i can make a pdf out of it for you and possibly reduce its size some.. i can possibly even host it for you if you want..

rcmits@gmail.com

thanks

RCMits -- check your email...Bud has made some edit's....he will post on his web site........ the front spring picture is not correct....it should go spring, green spring holder, e-clip......the white washer is used for the front tire....

When will the V2 be available as a car kit? I need the whole car.

I hope to have it all ready by next Monday.

Does the new kit include the bearings?