I know there are some still out there, my two included. Maybe could provide help to each other on this thread and stuff like the other chassis'.

this the set up i ran to qualify 3rd and finish 2nd @ FOCAR race 3 on flat carpet in 19T

carpet setup for RPM on a Box Stock Team Associated 10L4 first the easy stuff

tires 3 magentas purple rf all TRC a protoform hd Monte carlo Bud's medium bi-level wing with level removed. Jack the gripper tire traction full rear outside 1/2 lf and inside 1/4 rf

front end LF wolfe red spring with IRS king pin +1deg camber ) deg castor 5 hole hyperdrive block in the 3rd hole.
RF wolfe green spring irs king pin -1 deg camber 2 + castor 5 hole block in the 2nd hole

center 40 wt with silver spring pod level side shocks silva hard coated blue springs on both 40 wt I run the 4 cell try in the middle position with batts all the way out oh yah I run a straight up pod with a .075 t plate.

ride height was 5.5 front and rear. I cut tires down to 2.300 rear and 2.280 front.

when using Jack the gripper it is a must to clean the tires after a couple of runs just spray motor spray on a rag and wipe with a blue shop rag. apply the gripper 4 heats before then wipe dry with blue shop towel 1 heat before.

gearing i stayed ran a 38 pin 104 spur till after the second qual then went to a 39/106 with a ultra slug I ran 4383 brush full face purple spring and cut it and new brushes every run.

this is pretty much the setup that I have used @ HW slight banked asphalt and Stricklands flat asphalt actually the only difference is I didn't use tire sauce there.

Hey! I like this thread!

I am currently running a Factory Team RC10 L4O, and I am beating the KSG"s, Hyperdrives, and whatnot. But of course I've made tons of changes to the chassis with complete IRS parts, Silva concept parts, and more...

I am thinking of buying the KSG sway-bar kit for it, but I am not sure how it'll work out at our track since it's a short/fast tri-oval.

Well, I guess that's all for now!

Justin #29
www.geocities.com/cornwallrc (http://www.geocities.com/cornwallrc)
JDM RC Racing
IRS RC products
Loeb bakery
Bandit bodies
Pole position batteries

Yeah I have IRS stuff on my L4o too, Rear Pods, Front End. I thought since every other chassis had a thread why not us.

My L40s been so good lately that I parked my Leading Edge cars! Depending on what type track and class your running I highly suggest trying Sylvas T-plate with just a lil rear stear. Brought my car to LIFE running caps on a banked concrete track, funny thing is I had put it in to try at a flat asphalt track and didnt change it for the concrete.
Hey Dave P,
You running any rear stear in your " Box Stock L40" cough ,cough?

See Ya, Lee Helander :cool:
Velocity R/C

I have the rear-steer t-plate, but I don't have any rear-steer in it right now!

Justin #29
JDM RC Racing
Bandi RC Bodies
www.geocities.com/cornwallrc (http://www.geocities.com/cornwallrc)

no I don't run any rear steer. and I run a straight up pod

Dave - what kind of weight distribution does that equate to? Does moving the bat forward like that help the front end plant down?

You mention hyperdrive blocks... why not stick to the stock ones? What do these provide more?

M.P.

I have always ran my cars straight up so I can't tell yah what and offset car feels like. I run the batteries in the middle like that because I just did't like the feel of the car with them back. I like my cars to turn when I say turn. I just like the hyperdrive blocks better I've had the irs ones in the past and they provide more adjustment but I can do the samething with shims behind the caster block.

Dave: Here is my current set-up for my track. It's a 88' flat carpet tri-oval. Do you think you can tell me if this seems lieka n alright set-up, it has done alrigth for me but I was fighting the car most of the time!

Jaco tires:
RF:Blue
LF:Green
RR:Black
LR:Grey

Springs:
RF spring:Wolfe red
LF spring:Wolfe green
R micro:Blue
L micro:Red
Macro(center):Silver (I have a Hyperdrive adjustable center shock tower at the 2nd hole from the top)

POD:
offset, with 0 degrees of rear-steer, I have the long hub and IRS axle withHPI 116 tooth spur.

Motors/Batteries:
I use Pole Position GP3300 cells, with mainly monster Pro stock motors.

Body:
Bandit HD Monte Carlo

Electronics:
LRP Quantum Competition 2
JR radio, reciever, and servo

Well theres basically what I am running, I do alrigth with that set-up, but I figth the car a bit when I am near other drivers and occasionnaly it's handling is way off compared to toher driver's cars.

Do you have any ideas of how I could improve my cars handling?
NOTE: there are pics of my track at the website under my name!

Thanks!
Justin #29
JDM RC Racing
www.geocities.com/cornwallrc (http://www.geocities.com/cornwallrc)

wow that track looks cool. I think I would run the rear steer seems like you are always turning by looking at the pictures. I have never been a fan of running somany different tire compounds. I think it make the car very un predictalble I like to run the same comp rear and LF and a purple or black rf if you are running mostly stock try 4 blacks or the TRC 3 magenta purple rf. another thing to take the twitchy ness out of the car is the center shock height the higher you go the more weight it transfers thus giving you more steering response. try this put it 1 hole up from the stock location if you feel you need the car to respond quicker you can rise it up another hole. i also run the protoform hd monte it really plants the car.

Alright I'll try that out! Ya we are constantly turning on our track, it's super fast too! the track record is 101 laps in 5 minutes, and that's in the 4-cell stock class! I havn't tried my car out yet this year with some of the gadgets I have on it, but I am going testing soemtime in the next few weeks.

So, you say try out a bit of rear-steer? what about my springs they seem like they would work fine?

Thanks!
Justin #29
JDM RC Racing
Bandit RC Bodies
Pole Position Batteries
www.geocities.com/cornwallrc (http://www.geocities.com/cornwallrc)

Justin,
Nice website! especially liked the videos, shoulda took some drammine for that in car video though :drunk: What type of camera did you use for the incar?
Later, Lee Helander :cool:
Velocity R/C

I just used a Digital camera, those cars that you saw are the Bolink SPEC cars, of course they wrn't at they're full spped because it's my mom's camera and ya, I didn't want it broken or I'd have no legs! LOL

Thanks for the comments on the site, I enjoy supporting my hobby!
Justin #29
JDM RC Racing
Bandit RC Bodies
Pole Position Batteries
www.geocities.com/cornwallrc (http://www.geocities.com/cornwallrc)

i just notice you run the front sprins oppsite a green is a 14 and a red is a 12 I would swap them put the green on the RF and the red on the LF. i also am not a big fan of running different side shock springs try to blues. your going to have to set the tweek again alot of people like there scales but I have found that they can get you out to lunch quick. I make a line down the centerline and use an exacto and pick the rear pod up first I set it level then put 1 turn in the rr shock and hit the track if it pushes I take a little out if it is loose off then I put alittle in but i don't like to run alot there are other things that can be change to fix it. am not trying to get you to change your hole set up here but I hope this helps.

Ya, Don't worry Dave, I am willing to change my set-up! Thanks again for the help!

Thanks!
Justin #29
JDM RC Racing
Bandit RC Bodies
Pole Position Batteries
www.geocities.com/cornwallrc (http://www.geocities.com/cornwallrc)

Hey Justin - when is the track activity resuming? Will you guys still run on Friday (same time as GRSCR)?

I am starting to hitch from racing. Would love to have a couple confrontations St-Roch vs Cornwall vs Granby (and maybe even Plattsburgh).

M.P.

Hey! You should come join our copnversation in the Outside of U.S. categorie! No we will be racing on Saturdays starting very soon, just visit the site and show everbody else you know that would like to make a trip down the site, it has all the info taht you need and some changes for this year!

Website: www.geocities.com/cornwallrc (http://www.geocities.com/cornwallrc)

Justin #29
JDM RC Racing
Bandit RC Bodies
Pole Position Batteries
www.geocities.com/cornwallrc (http://www.geocities.com/cornwallrc)

Napanee is also another close friednly track to us aswell, that would be kool to start something though! But once again, come join our conversations in the "Outside U.S." section!

Justin #29
JDM RC Racing
Bandit RC Bodies
Pole Position Batteries
www.geocities.com/cornwallrc (http://www.geocities.com/cornwallrc)

Ok. How about we post an "FAQ" of mods to box-stock L4s.

For example here are some of the tweaks I am aware:

- trim the right side upper a-arm so there is more camber adjustment
- mount the left side tie-rod end underneat the steering block (also trimming the plastic castor support block) to correct ackerman
- modify the steering block (trim) to adjust caster at the steering block instead of the hinge pin side


I am trying to stay away from "hop ups" such as :
- use wolfe long king pins and spacers to move in or out the wheel

i have heard of the rf for camber thing but i have never seen any of the other things you are talking about

Well a lot of the RC racers at our track raise their VCS Micro shocks. Here's a pic of the raised suspension and my Factory Team Associated RC10 L4O:

*Mainly for you MP!, LoL


Thanks!
Justin #29
www.geocities.com/cornwallrc (http://www.geocities.com/cornwallrc)

Ok. How about we post an "FAQ" of mods to box-stock L4s.

For example here are some of the tweaks I am aware:

- trim the right side upper a-arm so there is more camber adjustment
- mount the left side tie-rod end underneat the steering block (also trimming the plastic castor support block) to correct ackerman
- modify the steering block (trim) to adjust caster at the steering block instead of the hinge pin side


I am trying to stay away from "hop ups" such as :
- use wolfe long king pins and spacers to move in or out the wheel

How about some pictures?

Modify steering blocks for caster adjustment

I can not claim credit for this...

Source: rc-oval.com

http://pages.videotron.com/mproy/images/tips%20and%20tricks/steering%20block%20modification.bmp

"WARNING! This is a very precise modification and must be done right! So if you do this, proceed with caution and take your time! However, it’s FREE

First think about what the adjustable caster blocks do. They raise and lower the pivot point of the A arm to give you more or less active camber. What that does is let you adjust the car for different tracks to keep as much tire patch on the track as you can in the turns. You can achieve the same results by shortening the steering block. So, instead of raising the hinge pin end of the A arm, you lower the steering block end. Same results either way. This is where I am really glad I invested in a good camera because a picture is worth more words than I have!

Look at the right steering block. This is the new one, the one on the left has been modified. Start at the top of the king pin boss and work down. You will come to a slight mold mark. If you were to measure from this mark to the top of the boss, it would be around .060 of an inch. Very carefully remove that entire section of plastic making the steering block shorter. Now taper the top edges a little to make sure it’s movement is not hampered by rubbing against the A arm. All you have to do now to make it adjustable is to add a shim or two (as needed) between the top of your modified steering block and the upper A arm. Neat huh!"

Modify steering blocks for caster adjustment

I can not claim credit for this...

Source: rc-oval.com

http://pages.videotron.com/mproy/images/tips%20and%20tricks/steering%20block%20modification.bmp

"WARNING! This is a very precise modification and must be done right! So if you do this, proceed with caution and take your time! However, it’s FREE

First think about what the adjustable caster blocks do. They raise and lower the pivot point of the A arm to give you more or less active camber. What that does is let you adjust the car for different tracks to keep as much tire patch on the track as you can in the turns. You can achieve the same results by shortening the steering block. So, instead of raising the hinge pin end of the A arm, you lower the steering block end. Same results either way. This is where I am really glad I invested in a good camera because a picture is worth more words than I have!

Look at the right steering block. This is the new one, the one on the left has been modified. Start at the top of the king pin boss and work down. You will come to a slight mold mark. If you were to measure from this mark to the top of the boss, it would be around .060 of an inch. Very carefully remove that entire section of plastic making the steering block shorter. Now taper the top edges a little to make sure it’s movement is not hampered by rubbing against the A arm. All you have to do now to make it adjustable is to add a shim or two (as needed) between the top of your modified steering block and the upper A arm. Neat huh!"

In thought it does the same thing. But it also changes the amount of camber gain, in this case giving a huge amount for a small suspension movement. On our cars the steering block is the same thing as a spindle on a full size car. The taller the spindle the less overall camber change you will have for the same amount of movement. As an example a 12 in. spindle would have less camber gain thena 10 in. spindle. If you want to get detailed you can do the measurments and get numbers to see. The smae thing carries over for our cars. I think most will agree that this is an unneeded adjustment anyways a the AE dynamic strut front end is actually designed perfect in it's stock form. I know other national champs will agree with on that one, and if it wasn't any good it would have been changed many years ago.

the way i look at it is this... get the long 3 dollar kingpins, and install them.. or take 2 hours hacking up your front end.. they forgot to mention that when u grind the block, it makes it very weak.. and it will break in no time,...


get some aluminum caster blocks, and raise the upper arm....camber gain is a great tuning aid.. not on the left though.. but on the right....

on our cap tire asphalt track, we run about 150 thou or more shims on topof the right steering block.. to raise the angle of the upper arm... and give more camber gain...

Like the 10L3 it took me awhile to fine the ideal setup that worked for the different tracks. I wasn't too keen on the newer front end setup but again after trying different locations the car finally got hooked up, it's still taking some trial and error what with racing be hold to finally again get it back up to speed. Surprising how rusty you can get with a 8month layoff.
Uses Wolfe kingpins and spring assortments, Raceway Mfg shock and servo mount, Irrgang front end, dring axle and hubs, shocks, Team Assocated threaded shock, Fine Line Med spring steel t plate, Jaco blue or black front, green, white or gray rears. For asphalt I use BSR green, and orange rf.

Anyone tried changing the mounting point of the shocks to the lower part of pod instead of on top? I use the Losi extended shock end cap the standard Associated had a tendency to keep pulling out.

Anyone tried changing the mounting point of the shocks to the lower part of pod instead of on top? I use the Losi extended shock end cap the standard Associated had a tendency to keep pulling out.

It would change the angle just as raising the front shock mount. But it changes the leverage angle that the shock works at making it havea shorter stroke with full pod travel. This also makes the shock less progressive through the motion. So it sounds good but it also changes the lever effect of the arching pod. It's hard to describe without showing why this is bad. Basically you are putting the shock closer to the center fore/aft pivot of the pod making the suspension have to work more to compress the shock initally and then the movement becomes easier. This might seam to be progressive like a shock with more nagle on it but it is actually the binding of the suspension from the geometry of the pod.

I hope that made since.

On our Indy cars, we tried mounting the shocks to the bottom of the motor top plate to gain more clearance between the side shocks and the body. It was not good. With a set of Assoc. copper 16# springs, the side movement was not as stiff as a set of Assoc. black (soft) springs mounted on top. Too much body roll. You would need a set of maby 20-22# springs to get it close.

actually are fastest guys in stock where i race run the shock under the toplate, with a soft finifhline t plate and a black spring...,,

actually are fastest guys in stock where i race run the shock under the toplate, with a soft finifhline t plate and a black spring...,,

Try it with mod.....

Alos look at it this way if it was that good all chassis would come like that. I know I've tried it on carpet at the Lansing Hobby Hub track and it didn't last long. lol

Just wondering if anyone had tried changing the mounting position lately. You know how you see articles and wonder if it really works as they claim. Haven't had much time for racing due to certain matters that hopefully will settle themselves and I can get back to racing a little more.

i believe i said stock he he. Mod i wouldnt have a clue..... ive never done it on an l3.. the best spot for associated cars is the same height as the stock plastic block....

Anyone with a good 10L3 setup for a flat ozite oval track with 120ft driveline. Good traction on the track. The rearend wants to skip about midwat through the turns. I have an HPI center shock with 30wt and orange spring, stock side shocks with 30wt and gold springs on both. I've not played with the front yet but it has black spring rf, and maroon spring lf. any help would be great. Thanks. :thumbsup:

this the set up i ran to qualify 3rd and finish 2nd @ FOCAR race 3 on flat carpet in 19T

carpet setup for RPM on a Box Stock Team Associated 10L4 first the easy stuff

tires 3 magentas purple rf all TRC a protoform hd Monte carlo Bud's medium bi-level wing with level removed. Jack the gripper tire traction full rear outside 1/2 lf and inside 1/4 rf

front end LF wolfe red spring with IRS king pin +1deg camber ) deg castor 5 hole hyperdrive block in the 3rd hole.
RF wolfe green spring irs king pin -1 deg camber 2 + castor 5 hole block in the 2nd hole

center 40 wt with silver spring pod level side shocks silva hard coated blue springs on both 40 wt I run the 4 cell try in the middle position with batts all the way out oh yah I run a straight up pod with a .075 t plate.

ride height was 5.5 front and rear. I cut tires down to 2.300 rear and 2.280 front.

when using Jack the gripper it is a must to clean the tires after a couple of runs just spray motor spray on a rag and wipe with a blue shop rag. apply the gripper 4 heats before then wipe dry with blue shop towel 1 heat before.

gearing i stayed ran a 38 pin 104 spur till after the second qual then went to a 39/106 with a ultra slug I ran 4383 brush full face purple spring and cut it and new brushes every run.

this is pretty much the setup that I have used @ HW slight banked asphalt and Stricklands flat asphalt actually the only difference is I didn't use tire sauce there.

try this set up I put it a friends L3 and his car drove just as good as mine. just run the batteries in the center all the way out on the chassis.

I've raced mostly banked but started at a local flat track using a 10L4 with standard rear no offset.
Front end: Left middle outer hole, spacer 1 in front, 1 rear on left side both in front on right. Standard front end spacers in same manner, but with Wolfe kingpin both on top on left, one on bottom, 1 on top on right. Springs are Wolfe standard Green springs Left and Right. Tires are Jaco Blacks 1/4 left front covered 1/4 to 1/2 of right application of compound (Paragon). 2 degrees positive camber left, 2 to 2.5 negative on right.
Rear: White Jaco full surface of compound
Side Shocks a Silva 30wt oil, left blue , right gold
Center shock 40 wt (threaded Team shock) #1 piston, silver spring
Tweaked Right front, Left rear
Body Proform MC 2002 lw, spoiler only.
Uses an extended Irrgang rear pod plate, front end moved to short wheel base.
Use a 6cell tray will battery placed in the middle all the way out.

Thanks man!

I am interested in getting into oval racing. I want to get a RC10L4 car, with aLRP QC2 ESC, looking at a JR radio with servos. Probally will be running on a banked carpet track in a Spec 4 Class. NOt sure on what type of tires I need or much of anything else. The track has ARCOR Rules. Any help would be great.

Thanks
Traxxasguy

Never raced Spec Class but some of the setups mentioned in posts should be a good startng point except for tire compounds. You may be limited to 2-3 tire compounds.

I use this setup for stock Nastruck at a short concrete tri-oval.



Chassis: L3
Battery Position: All the way to the outside of the battery holder(holes)
Springs: Front. Wolfe Green L and R
Front end: Stock Associated front end,S3003 servo.
Toe in-out: None
Caster: 1-2 deg left side,3-4 right side,1 wolfe,and 1 stock shim on the L and 2 stock shims in the back r caster block pin.
Camber: 2 deg Negative left and right
Hyperdrive tower shock mount (Alum.): Shock mounted in the 3rd hole from the bottom.
Rear Shocks: Associated stock
Rear Springs: Associated Green center,Silver Left,Silver Right
Shock Oil Weight: 50 center,35 L and R
T-Plate: Associated Stock .063
Motor: Fantom P2K
Spur: 100
Pinion: 38
Tires: BSR LF Green Standard,RF Standard Green Net,LR Narrow Green,RR Standard Green .

Greens all the way around.Reds all the way around if winter or night racing.
IRS rear axle and hubs.
Speed Control: LRP Sport
Radio: Futaba 3PDF FM
Batterys: SMC 3300
Think that is about it,except the body,I prefer the HPI Dodge 190mm bod on the concrete banked track..

I am buildind a L4o and it has a Kimbrough spur that has two sets of holes. The inner one has six and the outer one has twelve. The car comes with eight bearings! Which set of holes do I use? Thanks, Eddie

I normally run the outer holes in the spur with the diff balls. :thumbsup:

so should I get 4 more diff balls? It seems funny that they would include only eight. Or should I use only six and use every other hole? Thanks, Eddie

I think I got it. six balls...thanks.

I have heard to run 6 on the outer edge,but I always use 12. Ceramaic diffs balls are a plus also. :thumbsup:

The left rear tire contacts the pod. I know that this is mentioned in the instructions. How do people deal with this? Thanks, Eddie

Just file or dremel the bottom plate down to the width of the pod plate, the whole length.

What he said!

Justin #29

The best thing to do is when your tire is on a truer...use a file to grind the inside of the left rear rim down.