With an extended pod plate, kimbrough bearing adaptor 128 spur up to a 35 tooth pinion +/- but that was for modified running on a 650 ft asphalt track. Stock, 19turn has been 104-120 with 116 commonly used with a standard pod. Some use a size spur base on how car feels on track or which one get's them closer to the rollout they need. On some tracks using the extended pod plates can make the handling a little hard to get dialed.

Thanks for the reply. I have a 112 tooth, so I shouldnt have a problem fitting a pinion that will work for me.

If you use the KImborough offset height adjusters......and the IRS pod plate...

And if you do these mods to the pod plates you can get a 120/48 on your car!

Extend the motor mount slots with a dremel tool untill you see threads for the top and bottom plates. 2nd take a dremeal cutoff wheel and remove the support brace . Your motor mount will look like a horeseshoe when u do this.....

Next mill out the front of the bottom plate to make clearance for the added travel of the motor with a dremel sanding drum. Take caution..where a dust mask for this.....

When it is all said and done it should look like this...

Thanks Krisfo Time to break out the dremel.

I run 4 cell spec and did that mod and i can use a 120t spur and have put a 48 tooth pinion on the car


Krisfo

Well I ran my 10L30 for the first time this weekend. Sadly the result were not as good as I hoped. Believe it or not, the corners weren't the problem, it was the straights!

The car was pretty well balanced through the corners, maybe a bit loose coming off, but down the straights is was so TWITCHY! A slight turn of the steering wheel would send the car darting to the left or the right. Then when you tried to correct it, it would go back the other way.

Is this a chassis set up issue? or a radio set up issue? seems liek the steering has got to be slowed down. I'm not talking about the amount of steering, cause I'm not even getting the wheels to full lock. 1/8" turn of the wheel on the radio and this thing is gone!

Is it springs? do I need more toe out on the front? is it in the radio?
Try stiffer springs in front , both the same rate , toe straight ,never in, see if this helps

R.S.

some exponential in the radio may help. My futaba goes from -100% to +100%, I like it at -20%.

I agree with Tommygun, too much travel limit it to 20-35 percent. I've also found that tire compound, how traction compound is applied, right spring tension should get car settled.
These are flat track settings for stock
Tires: Jaco Gray LF, Black RF, White LR, Gray RR.
Compound Application: Paragon Ground Effect LF- Full to 1/2, RF- 1/4 to 1/2 inner to outer edge Full area or rears allowing compound to stay 5-10min. If too much bite clean tires with motor cleaner.
Front springs: Green Wolfe standard, sometimes Red LF
Spacers on front Left on in front, one rear, Right both spacers in front or 2degrees caster
Shocks:(Silva) Left 30wt oil Blue Spring, Right- 30wt oil, Gold spring center shock Team Threaded 40wt #1 piston black spring collar 1/4 inch from top. Be sure that ball cups are cut - if using full length that may cause binding.
Camber LF 0-2 degrees positive, RF .50 to 2degree negative, no more than 2.5 check by moving kingpin as though it was cornering to see how much tire angles adjust so more of tire area would be making contact.
When using other brands of tires their grip is a little different, TRCs are pretty close to Jaco, while RC4Less and BSR are different.
Since I've switched to the Silva chassis setup is still pretty much the same, The Darkside shock mount was added (third-forth hole), raised ball stud (Irrgang tall to brace) were added. If using 3800 cells check to see how pack is sitting in tray- you may have to file the slots a little more - don't sand area near the tape slots too much - that can weaken that area - in a hard impact the graphite will break easy.

just to make surem it's clear exp has nothing to do with travel. EXP is a adjustment used to change sensitivity. that's all it does. it starts in the center and works it's way out. example -020% exp slows down the sensitivity from center to left or right for 20% of the curve.

what is the part # for the hyperdrive graphite bumper you guys are using on your LxO's? i'm currently using the old l2hunk of plastic thing....
-Tone

what is the part # for the hyperdrive graphite bumper you guys are using on your LxO's? i'm currently using the old l2hunk of plastic thing....
-Tone

The hyperdrive bumper is not a direct fit.. it requires drilling different holes in it cause the bolt spacing is diff.. Just get the associated grafite bumper.. it has been re designed and is stronger now..

If you use the KImborough offset height adjusters......and the IRS pod plate...

And if you do these mods to the pod plates you can get a 120/48 on your car!

Extend the motor mount slots with a dremel tool untill you see threads for the top and bottom plates. 2nd take a dremeal cutoff wheel and remove the support brace . Your motor mount will look like a horeseshoe when u do this.....

Next mill out the front of the bottom plate to make clearance for the added travel of the motor with a dremel sanding drum. Take caution..where a dust mask for this.....

When it is all said and done it should look like this...

That may work on a leading edge car. but it wont on an L4.. the leading edge has the motor mounts away from the t plate a good amount..On an l4. your motor hits the t plate before it runs out of screw hole room..Thats why the extended plates move the axle away rather then just give you more motor movement..

Dont go hackin them plates up just yet pdrquick..

Thanks Burbs I havent touched the car. I was able to get the pinion I need on the car with room to spare. I also noticed that the lower pod and T plate were the limiting factors. Thanks again. PS. This weekend will be my first oval race in over twelve years. I think that all the help I have recieved in this forom is going to pay off. Thanks again Bob.

Does anyone have a owners manual for a 10L3O? I have a buddy who bought this car used. He really needs a owners manual. If anyone can help please email me at ctx39914@centurytel.net. I will pay the shipping cost. Thanks Devin

Does anyone have a owners manual for a 10L3O? I have a buddy who bought this car used. He really needs a owners manual. If anyone can help please email me at ctx39914@centurytel.net. I will pay the shipping cost. Thanks Devin
DOWNLOAD IT from me.....

RC10L3O -- http://www.eviltone.net/rc/Team_Associated_RC10L3O_Manual.pdf

RC10L4O -- http://www.eviltone.net/rc/Team_Associated_RC10L4O_Manual.pdf

RC10L2O -- http://www.eviltone.net/rc/Team_Associated_RC10L2-L2O_Manual.pdf

Print and enjoy!!

-Tone

Tone, thanks for the download.

Tone, thanks for the download.

youre welcome man.... :)

hey guys need some help , havent raced oval in a couple of years i got hold of a 10l4 can you give me some setups for flat carpet (marshalls). tires , springs, oil ,etc

what class............

But this is what works for me...............

4c Spec: Gold rear BSR Specs, Silver Front BSR Specs
Rear Shocks start with 30-35wt oil in all three
Red Springs on the front
Red Spring on the Left Side Shock
Blue Spring on the Right Side Shock
Silver or Green on the Center

Stock you will have to start there and most likely change some stuff. Better to get other answers and get around about starting point and go from there.

My driving style is different than yours and yours different than others so what works for you is what you need. But you can start there.

Also in stock I would start with Purples and Pinks for Tires.

thanks latemodel i will be starting with stockclass and then maybe 19t

np this should work for you

Wondering what front suspension ride height spacers and rear axle height adjusters are the norm for an L4 on flat tracks, carpet and asphalt. Also what tire diameter with your setups. Thanks.

Anybody?

I would like to send out a special thank you to Associated factory driver, Ken Pepe. I broke my chasis plate at the track. He gave me one of his old ones. It looks brand new. Thanks for the great support Associated.
Thank you
Scott Metz
lucky77

I need some input on a new product. I am currently testing a side shock mount that will let you move the shocks up and down like on some of the higher end race cars (no names needed). These mounts would let the shock length be longer so you can use less preload on the side springs but the proper length if you use the associated plastic ball cups. The top mounting hole will let you set the shocks level with the ground, and I know this is a good thing for cap tire racers because this is what i race. I tried my prototype design today and had good results, I qualified with the second fastest qualifying lap and qualified second in the heat races. Got in a incident in the race and the battery tape broke so I didnt finish too well. If anybody is interested in these let me know... Im not just making them for myself and would like to get rid of a few sets. Oh yea, my associated car drives better than my hyperdrive now with the side shock mounts and a ksg center mount! As soon as i get the final version of these done I will post a pic.

Thanks
John Mcdonald

whenever you get a pic of the part i would love to see it. let me know when your all done with testing.
~Jake~

Anybody?

In the front end I was using .130 and the rear .5 IRS height adjusters with 2.17 tires

hey guys need some help , havent raced oval in a couple of years i got hold of a 10l4 can you give me some setups for flat carpet (marshalls). tires , springs, oil ,etc

LF upper a-arm top/ inside hole
STD green WINDTUNNEL spring
#3 lube long king pins or 9110s'
BLACK TM RR series tire
.130 ride height shims

RF upper a-arm bottom outside hole
lube and king pin and RH shims same as above
BEEFY TEAL spring
DBL. BLACK TM RR series tire

Center shock .71 shaft with KIT spring
SOFT ORC t-plate
Battery tray all the way back w/ batteries all the way out.

LR Blue assoc. spring 30wt losi oil
.5 IRS ride height adjuster
White compound TM RR series tire

RR Same as above this will get you going on the carpet track. You may want to goto a GRAY RR TM RR series tire to free the car up some.

MONSTER stock 1.90- 1.96 rollout to start and body either a PF MD Dodge or HD Monte full height spoiler, NO wing. That is if running stock. Talk to the Joe E. up there he can assist as well. Hope to see you their on the carpet.

Have FUN,
John B.

John you mean Joe Ivo

Yeah that one.... Aside from that hope the information helps. Also don't go with the things like I normally hear in the pits. "well you should be running this chassis" BULL, run what you have to get started and enjoy then if you get to a point you want some of this other adjustable stuff on the market then inquire about it.

Hope to see you on the carpet this winter,
John Bath

I'm glad to see this thread going again. Me and my brother both race these and in his first race he broke the track record twice and then I beat his in the main. I was wondering what adjustments you guys would make for a shorter track 8 ft infield flat ozite 12ft wide turns 98ft runline.

For such a short oval you may go with the shorter wheelbase then put softer spring on RF wheel. As for rear suspension maybe blue springs on both VCS shocks, you play a little with preload but not too much difference. With tight turns, make sure front end has good bite, maybe 1/32'' or 0.5 mm for rear stagger.

Stephane Courchesne
Drummond,Quebec

I've got a setup/adjustment question for you all. What do the washers/shims on the kinpins do? Currently I have the box stock setup with 4 washers on top and 1 below. I have not been able to find any information on them and the manual is not much help either.

Thanks in advance.

The washers on top of your king pin are used to set your spring pre- load,the more washers you add you make the spring stiffer and take away bite.you probably have 9110 king pins which don't allow for much pre load.Matter of fact I had to remove two washers today to get some bite back in my frint end,I had .160 preload and went to .120.

Hello, a guy mentioned thanking Ken Pepe on here. I'm looking for him- not sure if "Pepe" who posted above is Ken Pepe. Regardless, Ken, if you're out there, send me a PM or e-mail. Raced against you years ago, and looking for ya! (It's ok, not wanting to revenge a hack from years ago or anything....)

i just got a rc10l4 and man is it great i just tested it out on the local tennis courts, and WOW!!! its soooo smooth! i love it associated keep it UP!!!

Glad to hear you like the car TEAM_lost. I knew you would!

I run an l3 soon to be l4 and am wondering what shock angle does on all three shocks. How does it effect handling to move the shocks.

The more the angle the more the weight transfer from one side to the other, most of us run them pretty much flat so its not as drastic of weight transfer..........

raising the side shocks will allow the car to roll more, usually a benefit on a slick track. Kinda changes the spring and damping feel (softens as you go up) On the center, you can change the cars attitude- raising the center shock will give you a little more on-power steering, as well as again soften the spring and damping feel. Take a look for either KSGs or HyperDrives center shock mount, its a help- as well as at least look at the Silva upper shock mount (has an extra set of holes) as well as get some of the medium and tall ball mounts (CRC, Trinity and a few others make them)

Okay ive got that figued out so now im wondering wat a spring steel t plate would do. Im runing stock six cell flat track fairly high traction

thanks

Little different feel... Some guys like the steel t-bar because they don't break. As it's steel, it'll fade, just like the fiberglass ones.... More choices in the steel t-bar as well... If you can spring it, look at the one from Silva with the rear-steer...

Not to get off the rc10 topic here but what is the silva website.

Thanks

the bad part of a spring steel is they tend to get tweaked in crashes which creates huge chassis problems. I'd stick with fiberglass or graphite ones.

Not to get off the rc10 topic here but what is the silva website.

Thanks

http://www.silvaconcepts.net/

Guess it's not off the topic, really, as the Silva is an enhancement of the L4O... After running one, definitely the ticket. Car just does things better.. Little more tunability... Comp is right, you do have the possibility of tweaking the t-bar. If you run one, keep an eye on it for flatness...

Love my steel t plate.

Jerry B.
Team OHP
Rc4less
Performance R/C

Okay so what one to get. My car works well the way it is with a really soft blue colored fiberglass one but obviously always looking to improve.

Thanks

Tough to say... almost have to try them... I was running a medium steel one tonight and broke it before the 2nd qualifier. Had to get a glass one (stock .063 associated) and the car came to life... Guess it depends on the track...

wow im amazed i took out a rustler with my l4.... i was so scared i broke somthing.. not a scratch the rusty looked like it was hating life, was pretty funny just the body got a little scuffed up, the rusty just shot 20 feet up off my hood, my friend was drivin it and i told him to leave me alon that i was practicing, well he broke 2 a-arms and a hub :D man this is tough but i dont want to risk breaking it, but at my tennis corts someone stole the nets and broke the poles so its really nice and smooth and i have alot of fun and i found my perfect gearing spur 81 pinion 30 it flys!!!! i clocked it at 40 mph on a crappy 20t photon speed motor dont run my race motor till race day except to find gearing, but i love this car!!