The battery tray needs to be moved out , the rear pod needs to be longer, so you can fit bigger gears in it, the side shocks need to be mounted so you can run them flatter for outdoor tracks or have them angled like they are for running on the carpet. And the rear body posts need to have more then one set of holes so you can fit different bodies on the chassis correctly.Like I said, the L4 is a good starter chassis, but it needs some improvements, and to buy the parts to make it right, I can buy a chassis with all the right parts and settings I need for the same price. The L4 in my eyes was made to run on carpet, not for running on larger outdoor tracks. We will be running our L4 on the carpet this winter, but we are buying a different chassis for outdoor next year. So if Assoc. wants to keep selling oval chassis's they may want to do some upgrading to the L4 kit to get with the times.

I do understand that some of you who are wanting more out of you L4 are more of a hardcore racer than I am, but I honestly have no complaints with this chassis. My car was running .3 second to .5 seconds faster than any car out on the track this past weekend (in my class), and held up in some of the most brutal crashes I have seen. I know this cause I'm not that great of a driver, but for my first race of the season/first race on carpet ever, it was truly an amazing car. I did however break 3 body posts (which I know know how to fix that problem), but if you're seriously thinking about switching to a different chassis because the posts don't have more holes in them, COMMON!! :rolleyes: I had to drill holes in my posts. If you want more holes, give me your posts, and I'll drill more holes in it for you ;) As for the rear pod being too small, yes, I can see that complaint, but I was told you can purchase longer rear pods for it. I'm sure that what you're complaining about can be fixed with aftermarket parts. I'm also sure that the design team said "look, is it worth us making the car have a longer pod for those "people" out there who need it, or can we just throw in a standard pod, and offer the longer pod as an option to those who are looking for something different." Consider your longer pod an option. GM, Chevy, Ford, etc don't go throwing all the best options (leather, heated seats, sunroof, DVD, Navigation, etc...) into their cars for the hell of it. They make it an OPTION, because some people don't need it. Why pay for it if you don't need it. Make sense? Am I getting somewhere?

Congrats to your son. I wish I could win 7 times in a row. Unfortunately with as many crashes as I had in the first 2 heats, and my GTX switch coming disconnected after a killer hit, I only placed 2nd, 2nd, and 3rd (I was in the lead and pulling on second place before I was taken out for 1 minute 30 seconds out of a 5 minute heat). :wave:

Don't get me wrong about the L4, it is a good chassis. But I think that it could use some updating. Not all oval racing is done on the carpet. For a banked outdoor track it could use some modifications like I had mentioned before. We will see how it does on the carpet this winter. But we are going to run a more tunable chassis next year outside. :freak:The biggest problem that I have with buying add on parts for the L4is, you spend $240 for the kit and by the time that you add on all the extra parts for just the chassis, you are $30 to $50 more then a high end kit. Do the math, It just doesn't add up!!

I just got my first laps with an ''L3 converted to an L4'' it ran like on rails!

However I REALLY hope T.A. completely reconfigures the rear pod. It's such a painful experience to put the motor in and yes I have to use other ride height parts so I can put bigger pinions.

Stephane Courchesne

I.R.S. makes extended pods that work well and give you a lil more room.

xxxxx

That is what I've been talking about!!! The car runs pretty good, but it could use this or that.Well instead of spending an extra $100 or so over the cost of the car. Just buy a car from a company that wants to keep the oval sport alive. T.A. needs to step up and either offer the parts we need in with the kit, or redesign the car to pit todays sport!! :freak:

If you want to get up to speed with an associated based car...I would suggest giving these a serious look. Leading Edge R/C Cars new "Lightning" Chassis has the same options as the CW Cars, but uses associated parts!!! Check out their website at:http://leadingedgerccars.com/

The lightning is a conversion kit that brings the 10L3/10L4 out from the ashes and to the top!!!

Kris Fowler

Acually the Le car has less then a 1/4 of the adjustments of the CW car..

It doesnt have as many front end movement options,

the t plate doesnt offset as much,

the side shocks are locked position, but the Cw has many options..

the rear pod on the LE car does not adjust wheel base, the ce does..

In comparison it has a ton less adjustments.. It says that right on the site. But the edge was fast, because it had less adjustements.. this will help you work on wareas of setup that it has instead of tuning yourself out over the crazy amount of adjustments..

That is what I've been talking about!!! The car runs pretty good, but it could use this or that.Well instead of spending an extra $100 or so over the cost of the car. Just buy a car from a company that wants to keep the oval sport alive. T.A. needs to step up and either offer the parts we need in with the kit, or redesign the car to pit todays sport!! :freak:

steve.. Buy a silva conversion kit from hays.. it is an updated l4.. It was supose to be the L5 but associated didnt want to do it.. silvas did.. hays has all the parts in stock..If you want one ill make you a deal on ine.. I just bought it two weeks ago i ran it one day down in iowa.. Im not sure if im goiong to stay wioth it yet..


http://www.msnusers.com/burbs/shoebox.msnw

We Will Talk At Triclone When We Start Racing, Thanks Burbs

Guys if you need to make your side shocks sit more level in the rear, buy some Ball stud standoffs from IRS. They have short .0235, medium .0390 and long .0500 I used to use them on my HD cars all the time.

http://www.teamirsrc.com/images/irs355.jpg

whoa eric, i didnt know that you switched from rip to hyperdrive. i still got my L4 setting at home waiting to be raced. man is it a great car! i am looking at switching my pod on my L4 from offset to straight up and i was wondering if anybody knew which hubs would work for it and if anybody knew the part numbers for the hubs?
~Jake Feskanin~

Go to lefthanders web site, they stock all the rear end parts that you will need.

whoa eric, i didnt know that you switched from rip to hyperdrive. i still got my L4 setting at home waiting to be raced. man is it a great car! i am looking at switching my pod on my L4 from offset to straight up and i was wondering if anybody knew which hubs would work for it and if anybody knew the part numbers for the hubs?
~Jake Feskanin~

NO HE RAN FOR HYPERDRIVE BEFORE RIP.. tHE RIP CAR USES DIFF STYLE SHOCK MOUNTING SO HE SAID HE USE TO USE THEM ON HIS OLD hd CARS..


sorry fr the caps..

Anyone can post a good static weight starting point for an L4? 6 cell tray and extended IRS pod.

M.P.

well my sons L4 weights 42. 4 ounces with only a 1/2 ounce of lead in the car. He has aluminum servo mounts, center shock mount, and body posts. GTX esc, metal geared servo, but other then that the car is stock. And that is with a 6 cell tray.

I meant all four corners (left side bias, rear and cross weight)

The only corner of the car that we worry about is the L rear. I start the car out at 300 on Lefthander scales, depending on the track conditions and how the cars driving I usually end up at about 312 by the main. It all depends on the track for that day.

I just built my first L4 and I have two questions. I will be running on a flat carpet track.

1. I have on Jaco tires and the fronts have play in them. This doesn't sound acceptable to me. Should they be shimmed to prevent the play?

2. It comes with a Kimbrough diff gear with twelve outer holes and only 8 diff balls. Do you put in twelve or six? Or, do you run another brand diff gear?

Thanks!

You Should Shim The Tire So It Has Vary Little Play. Also Run All 12 Diff Balls. All Spurs Don't Have The Same Amount Of Holes Some 8 Others 12. I Always Say The More The Better, The More Balls The Less Force Each One Has To Transfer.

What length and type body posts should I use, I want the screw type, with my L4O and Monte Carlo body?

Thanks

Go to Lefthander rc , he has adjustable alum. body posts

I have an l4o running in a sportsman class with a chevy silverado body, 1/2 inch rear spoiler. I race on a flat oval carpet track. I run blue compound tires all around, the truck handles neutral, but it scrubs off a lot of speed in the corners.. I'm unsure as to what could be wrong. It has a four cell tray which I run at the rear most position. Any suggestions would be appreciated...

The L3 / L4 Cars Are The Best Available !!!!!!!!!
Why Do You Think So Many Companies Use Their Base Line.
Either Car Out Of The Box Is Very Competitive And Easy To
Adjust.
It Fits The Average Racer Just About Perfectly And Associated
Did A Great Job With The Kits.
Sure There's The Ksg's And Other High End Stuff Out There But You Still See Alot Of L4's Running Towards The Front , If Not Winning.
We Run With 2 Ksg's And A Custom Works About Every Week In The A- Main And We Have No Problem Giving Them A Run For Their Money.
I Have No Desire To Buy Anything Different , We Still Run The Original L3 Style Front End And All Our Competitors Stare In Aw How Fast It Goes Thru The Corners.
Basically A Car With Too Many Adjustments Just Confuses Most Racers.

Thanks Associated

Just My Opinion

I was looking for parts for a 12L4O. It seems that this car doesn't exist anymore. We have a small group that still runs these cars in 4 cell stock. This is the 6 cell chassis. We had a group that was running 6 cell stock.


I am looking for the cross brace for the standoffs that mount the side shocks on top of them. Part#4534 is what we have in stock but it is for the 4 cell road coarse car. Any help would be appreciated.

Try Lefthander RC or Tower Hobby they both have alot of Assoc. parts

Tower hobby doesn't know anything about oval stuff they just sell play stuff like RTR trucks and other junk. We have sent emails about this car and they claim it never existed. All they refer to is the 4 cell road course chassis.

I was looking for parts for a 12L4O. It seems that this car doesn't exist anymore. We have a small group that still runs these cars in 4 cell stock. This is the 6 cell chassis. We had a group that was running 6 cell stock.


I am looking for the cross brace for the standoffs that mount the side shocks on top of them. Part#4534 is what we have in stock but it is for the 4 cell road coarse car. Any help would be appreciated.


the car you are talking about is the RC12L3 the part # is 4557


tower doesn't have it but Stormer does go here

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=ASC8462

Just so you know Associated has not introduced an oval version of the 12L4, it's only in a roadcourse version. Also if you are looking for the 12L3Oval version it along with the 12L3 have been discontinued, so complete kits are almost non existant. I looked around at several online sites for parts and kits: Stormer has some Associated and IRS parts, plus 2 12L3 (road course) kits for $119.99 (12/15), R & L hobbies has a small inventory of parts.

At Towers the only way of finding exact parts for the 12L3 oval is by the manufacturers link, check list of chassis parts under Associated Electrics lists. Maybe we can give links to other sites or shops that may still have an inventory of parts for the 12L3 and 12L3 oval, I was looking to prepare a 12L3o for an upcoming Regional 1 race but may have to pull out my 12LW oval, modify that and see how competitive it is with some minor upgrades.

Thank you for the info. This has been very helpful. I used to have the parts breakdown for the rest of the car but I loaned it out one night and haven't seen it since. Is the top motor plate the sane for oval and roadcoarse.

no it isn't the same. here's a parts breakdown

http://download.teamassociated.com/pdf/catalogs/drawing_12l3o.pdf

That was very helpful! Thanks!!

Other than the weight is there an advantage to the 4 cell battery tray VS the 6 cell tray on the L4? More ajustment holes? Wider for more battery offset? Just wondering. Thanks.

Other than the weight is there an advantage to the 4 cell battery tray VS the 6 cell tray on the L4? More ajustment holes? Wider for more battery offset? Just wondering. Thanks.

battery placement is slightly different.. i belive the 6 cell tray goes back a little further.. also alot of guys like the extra room .. you can mount the receiver or speedo or both on the front of the tray.. the 6 cel allows the weight to be more forward on the left front tire..

If your thinking of getting new tray get the silva tray.. its a direct fit.. has the speedoe spot on back , and rceiver spot on front..

My L4O came with a Kimbro spur gear. I was wondering what is the best Diff bearing layout inside six holes or outside twelve? If outside is used is it o.k. for the balls to be exposed the way they would be or do you need the Kimbro covers to protect the bearings. Ive been out of racing for about 9 years and Im geting back into oval and need all the help I can get. Thanks. :confused:

Outside twelve,cover is your choice,generally we used the covers when we raced outside,as the tracks get pretty dirty there.Pretty much most people have switched to the PRS gears now, they are machined not molded and MUCH truer than the Kimbroughs.

Thanks Pepe Is the PRS gears the ones ive seen with the large holes around the outside.Also is there a size of gear prefered for stock racing on a medium size flat outdoor trak. For cost purposes ill probably try to run tire as large as I can get away with. Havent really figured out the rollout gear ratio thing yet. Thanks.

Are you runnin caps or foams? Yes! those are the pro light gears.what is the size of the track?

Foams and im guesing about a 200 to 230 centerline paperclip shaped track.

Pretty much most people have switched to the PRS gears now, they are machined not molded and MUCH truer than the Kimbroughs.

Where are you guys getting the PRS gears from?

Here are the gears, http://ovalracingconcepts.com/gears.htm. I don't run foams so I won't try to give you a gear,and gearing depends on a lot of things anyway. You can kinda judge your gearing, your car should top out at the end of the straight away.I can always tell if I'm geared close,my car will accellerate hard from the middle of the turn to the end of the straight.

Thanks ;)

http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog/index.php Heres a good place to get them also.

I need an extended pod or motor plate to fit onto my L3 because I need to run a 120 diff gear and 35 tooth pinion for a spec class. does anybody know where to get and if I can just use the motor plate or do I need a top and bottom plate as well.

thanks

Chevyman,

Same place as above,lefthander.

Irrgang Racing Services makes them, some other sites that carry their line are Stormer Hobbies, Tower Hobbies and most local hobby shops carry them. They are a direct fit and can use the standard top and bottom plates. Another thing to try that's cheaper is the Kimbrough Offset Bearing Adapter. Try the Kimbrough adapter first, sometimes using the offset pod changes the handling of the car.

thanks alot!!!

That has been an ongoing issue with the Associated pan cars. Rather than spend additional money (39.00 - 49.00 on pod plates) discuss the issue with track director to see if they would allow you to run a smaller spur as long as it was the same ratio of 3.42.

Even with the Kimbrough adapters a 35 is still going to be a little tight, if you tend to use three screw in tplate that two limits how much you may be able to move motor forward.

Whats the largest size spur gear you can use on a L4? Ill be racing stock on a track with about a 200ft. run line. Thanks.