Is that the graphite bumper or foam bumper? I'm looking for the foam bumper. Thanks.

He has both, the graphit bumper is for a Hyperdrive, the foam part is a universal part, it will fit any car. The foam comes square you have to cut it to fit your car.

oh...is it really worth the weight savings? I mean, is it really that much of a difference over the AE one?

They weigh alittle less, plus they cost a dollar or so less too.

How about rear t plates? Steel fiberglass? What does any body run? what will a soter one compared to a stiffer one do?

How about rear t plates? Steel fiberglass? What does any body run? what will a soter one compared to a stiffer one do?


stiffer on the spring gives the car more steering and works best on smooth hig grip tracks. softer gives less and is good for bumpy low grip tracks. on the tplate when running 3 shocks they really don't do a whole lot. a stiffer tplate works the same. when I ran a L4 I always ran the .075 fiberglass. now with my Aggressor I run the .063 fiberglass. the difference in thicknesses is supposed to react different. a thinner .063 will react faster than the .075. but like I said I really don't think that matters that much when running 3 shocks. if you are running tweek screws then you'll feel the difference.

I have an L4 and I run on a Flat carpet track, The last race I was experiencing major pushing problemes going in, but it was kinda all right coming out, wut would cur this???

Also What would you put the weight at for all 4 corners for a banked oval???

Thanks in advance BAR 26

there are a number of things that can cause it tweek, to stiff of front springs, to hard of front tires. front end binding, acerman wrong. etc. need more details.

Milky, on the track that my son runs, which is 360ft tri oval, 14 deg. banking, asphalt. We run a soft Track Attack steel t-plate. Would never go back to fiber again , atleast for outside.Keeps the car planted to the track so much better.

Bar 26, I would put your weight right down the center or on the left side if you have the room.

I mainly run flat short high traction ovals here in Southern Ca. I do run one high banked indoor asphalt oval sometimes. I run the .075 fiberglass right now. It seems to do its job, i was just seeing what everyone else runs because there are so many options. So stiffer=looser, just like the center spring? Also what would moving the center shock up or down do? Stiffen or loosen or does it make it more progressive as you put more of an angle in it?

move it up makes it softer down makes it harder. the main reason I run a fiberglass tplat is cost I have 2 aggressors so that is 2 for each car 4 total @ 25.00 bucks ouch. plus I have seen guys fight there cars for a couple of weeks only to find out there $25 dollar tplate is bent.

Hey that solves that.

hey rookiestrips:
whats the length of your track? i have a setup that i have been running for my L4 factory team car and it may not be the fastest of the stock guys but i have had the most consistent lap times. the setup feels real good in the corners and pulls great down the straights. here is my setup:
0.020 RF associated spring 0.020 LF associated spring
bottom left hole on the irs casotr blocks for the RF and top right hole on the irs castor block for the LF
for the rear shocks i run associated shocks all the way around and 35 weight oil in all three shocks. i run a silver spring in the center and RR shock and a red spring in the the LR shock.
i use the 0.075 t-plate and the offset irs axle adjusters.
my tire compunds are as followed:
LF-TRC Blue RF-TRC Blue
LR-TRC Blue RF-TRC Green
thats my setup
i do run in a spec class so my tire compounds are limited so obviouslyif you run stock you will have alot more compunds to choose from. even thought this setup is mostly box stock it drives really well. so try it, it might work out well for you. anybody with any tips for me on how i could improve my setup just let me know and i will be happy to try them.
~Jake Feskanin~

The cost of a steel t-plate is double the price of a fiber one, but they will stand up to alot more than the fiber ones. My son was breaking fiber ones almost everyother week. Ithas been 3 weeks since he has broken one know that we have gone to a steel one. Plus we are 4 tenths of a second faster. The car runs so smooth now.

How is everyone doing with their L4's? My son has won 3 weeks in a row. We are trying a ton of different set ups. I think we found one that works pretty well.

How is everyone doing with their L4's? My son has won 3 weeks in a row. We are trying a ton of different set ups. I think we found one that works pretty well.

I like my L4,but I think I need a new driver :jest: ..
Chassis is great though.. :thumbsup:

I,ve been feeling the same about my driver here lately :(

Well as soon as I get a chance to race mine, I'll let ya know what I think

My son races with a driver that has a Team Assoc. sponsership.He said to get the car to handle better on outdoor tracks, we should build extentions for the side shocks. Then you have to buy longer ball cups. He said this will free up the car, no more binding in the rear of the car. We are going to try it .I will let you all know how it works.

Yea I would like to know. Im in the process of doing some mods with the side shocks. I found out that there is a Maverick cross brace that is good for this. I purchased the brace from the #'s and examples given on JPH's site. It didnt work out, the end of the shock was not inline with the other end of the shock on the pod.??Anyone have any info or Ideas for me?? Also Im getting conflicting answers on which is offset or straight up on the rear pod, and how to run it on flat or banked type tracks. Thanks

Straight Up pod you would use the shorter diff hub. Standard pod seemed to be the way to go on banked tracks.

Offset pod works good on flat tracks.
Basically looking from the rear of the car forward. To off-set the pod you would move it to the left and for standard move it to the right. And also changing the diff hub.

Yea I would like to know. Im in the process of doing some mods with the side shocks. I found out that there is a Maverick cross brace that is good for this. I purchased the brace from the #'s and examples given on JPH's site. It didnt work out, the end of the shock was not inline with the other end of the shock on the pod.??Anyone have any info or Ideas for me?? Also Im getting conflicting answers on which is offset or straight up on the rear pod, and how to run it on flat or banked type tracks. Thanks

email Jake at maverick. he will be able to help with the crossbrace issue. I had there upgraded crosbrace on my L3 a while back..

Is there droop i your pod.. Ie does it spring back past level? the maverick parts i liked, because when you set your pod droop the shocks would be inline then... your center shock might nee to be adjusted.. the side shocks are very rarily dead even on both sides.. if you have tim, email me a pic of it, i may be able to help more with your quetion.. boxerking1@charter.net

Burbs: It is way more drastic than that, not a pod droop issue.its like a 1/2 inch or so.

I'm really happy with my L4. This is my first race season and my first time ever racing oval. My first race I was on par for a TQ run until I hit a board and separated my battery in the second qualifying round. I got it fixed and in the main I hit the same board before completing a full lap and took myself out.

My second race went much better. I double taped my batteries to the chassis and avoided the boards as much as possible. I got hacked bad in the first qualifier and finished towards the back. Second qualifier I took 3rd and qualified 14th out of 21. I made the B main and took first in it. My times were very concistent and I feel the car handled great.

My next race with it will be wither the first Sunday or Second Sunday in August and I hope to do even better.

Quick question for you all. I've been reading about rollout and have not have much success in determining what a good number for a flat asphalt oval would be. Typical track lengths are 200 - 220 feet. Right now I am running 48 pitch gears: 81 spur/25 pinion.

I'm not a 100% possitive, and someone may correct me (which is ok, cause I'm trying out my calculator for the 1st time), but according to my calculations, if you run your

81 spur with a 29 pinion, your rollout should be fairly on. Another factor is tire diameter. If you can measure that, then I could be a little more specific.

If I'm wrong, you can correct me.

If you have say a tire of 2.25 diameter with your current gearing of 81/25 then you would be sitting at a 2.18 rollout.
What motor are you running?

Asphalt tracks are funky cause everyone of them have different grip so there is a lot of trial and error involved with gearing. Some weeks if the track is clean and the caris really hooking up you might be able to go up. Other weeks when its real hot, less traction etc, you may need to go down in gearing.

For instance our track is like 268' runline and a good starting point most weeks for a Monster is a 2.30

The tires a fairly new with only 4 full 5 minute races on them. I believe their diameters are roughly 2.34. The motor is the Monster Horsepower Pro (stock). Traction at the tracks I race at are considered medium to good I suppose. They are cleaned and prepped the day before and a traction compound (rootbeer) is applied as well.

Is there a particular number I would be looking for when it comes to roolout? Like is 2.20 better than 2.30? Is lower better? Is there some sort of rule of thumb for track length? Fir instance is 2.20 good for a 220' and 2.30 for a 230' track, etc...

I wish rollout calculations were an exact science but unfortunately it's not.
What you are trying to accomplish with correct gearing or rollout is you want the motor to wind up quick and reach a peak speed about 3/4 the way down the straight away. If you gear too low, the motor will wind out too quick and you wont have any top end speed. If you gear too high, it will never wind out and you will have no tug off the turns. Both typically get the motor hot, which hurts lap times. So ultimately you just need to play and see what works and what doesn't.
Oh and by the way just because somebody sets a track record at a certain rollout does not 100% mean it will work for you. At my home track I have spoken to a lot of guys and talked about their fastest run and where they rolled out at. You wouldn't believe the differences in rollout. Some were over 20 points or about 3-4 difference.

Traction, surface type (carpet, apshalt, concrete), how tight or sweeping the turns are, air temp, how free your car is working, all play a roll.

For instance at my local track we have a 185' banked carpet and a 268' apshalt track. On a typical Monster I am usually within 1 tooth of each other on rollout on both tracks.

Common sense would tell ya that I would need to be several teeth higher but thats just not the case, well unless you wanna be slow.

I started to run flat tracks more this past carpet season, they seemed a bit more consistent to gear for.
My rule of thumb (not exact but should get you close) for a Monster to start out with:
185' - 2.25
175' - 2.15
165' - 2.05
155' - 1.95
145' - 1.90
135' - 1.85

Erock ive tried to figure all this out, But Im having trouble. Ive done
tire sizex3.14xspur/pinion= rollout
Is this correct? Or is it pinion/spur?
what throws me off is once you decide on the rollout you want, do it backwards?
I just get all mixed up. Its been awhile since Math class, even with a calculator.

say your spur is 108
pinion 34
tire size - 2.22

so 3.14 x 2.22 = 6.9708
6.9708 / 108 = .0645444
.0645444 x 34 = 2.19

I go to a new track with a runline of 135'. So I decide to go with a roll out of 1.85. I have to chose gearing.
My tires are at 2.34, so here goes...
3.14 x 2.34 = 7.34
7.34 / s =?
? x p= 1.85

So I pick a spur, lets say 120t
3.14 x 2.34 = 7.34
7.34 / 120 =.0611666667
.0611666667 x p= 1.85
p=30.24523161

So I choose a 30 tooth pinion and a 120t spur to get my rollout of 1.85?

You got it
((2.34 * 3.14)/120)*30 = 1.84

Since it's all algebra you have 3 parts (tire size, pinion and spur) if you know 2 of them you can manipulate the equation to solve for the missing factor. Just like you did above with changing it to find the pinion.

Awsome thanks so much Eric. Im slowly getting there.

Hey Milky, Gimmie your e-mail and I will send you an awesome program that does it for you. Just plug in the numbers and it does the calcs.

Hey Milky, Gimmie your e-mail and I will send you an awesome program that does it for you. Just plug in the numbers and it does the calcs.

Would you mind sending it to me as well? Thanks!

Pm me with e-mail

I found out something very interesting last week at the track. We have a racer that is sponsored by team assoc., the team drivers don't even run a team car. They all run Silva chassis's. I think that really stinks!!! :confused:

Or have all the ex associated guys went to Silva???Or is the Silva chassis manufactered by Associated??

That I don't know. But the guy we race with is sponsored by T.A.

Looking At Running At A Track Outside Of Wisconsin Next Summer. Any Suggestions, I Will Be In The Area Of Virginia, Westvirginia, N.carolina, Tenn. Please Let Me Know Of Some Good Outdoor Tracks To Try.

how about a part number for the trailing steering block??

how about a part number for the trailing steering block??
Associated part # 8421, I,ve always used the inline so I have a pile of the offset blocks laying around.

Hey Milky, Gimmie your e-mail and I will send you an awesome program that does it for you. Just plug in the numbers and it does the calcs.
Qual shen, would that program be Pocket PC compatible? Would be sweet!!

Switching to Hyperdrive chassis for next year. They atleast stay with the times, and update their chassis's!!!!

Looking At Running At A Track Outside Of Wisconsin Next Summer. Any Suggestions, I Will Be In The Area Of Virginia, Westvirginia, N.carolina, Tenn. Please Let Me Know Of Some Good Outdoor Tracks To Try.

52,

There are a lot of great tracks in the area's you mentioned,most are outdoor cap tracks,there's Coopers in VA,there's BMS and Rush and son's in Tenn,C&W and FX mtn in NC,Carolina super speedway in SC,Encheconne in GA,and now Spring Cove is back open down in Alabama.

And Lose In The Nationals, While Associated Doesnt Need To Change A Thing. If You Can Drive, It Will Win.

My son is winning with his L4. There are some design problems with the car. And if I'm going to spend the money to correct them. I might as well buy a car with all the correct parts to begin with, RIGHT!!!!!!!! I'm not saying that the L4 is a terrible car, my son has won 7 weeks in a row with it. There are some things missing on the car. You all know what I'm talking about.

I'm not saying that the L4 is a terrible car, my son has won 7 weeks in a row with it. There are some things missing on the car. You all know what I'm talking about.

No... I am not sure of what you are talking about.
I'm trying to think of what you think the car needs, if it has won
7 weeks in a row??

My son is winning with his L4. There are some design problems with the car. And if I'm going to spend the money to correct them. I might as well buy a car with all the correct parts to begin with, RIGHT!!!!!!!! I'm not saying that the L4 is a terrible car, my son has won 7 weeks in a row with it. There are some things missing on the car. You all know what I'm talking about.

yea, it's called a KSG...LOL