You giving up the KSG?

GS Hobbies (Hobby Talk sponsor) had them for $229 NIB as well. Better to support those that support the people that support oval, then some stranger on Ebay.

I need some set up help for my l4. I run in a stock class on a carpet oval with some banking. I am looking for a good basic set up that handles well. I have tried many differnet things and I just can't seem to get my car to handle good. I have reviewed some of the links posted on here but they all seem to be for flat tracks.

Hey all, was wondering if raising the side shocks really helped anyone at all lately?
Seems to me when I put a half inch stand-off at the cross brace edge holes, and mount the shocks, there seems to be a built in preload, is there any way to shorten the shocks and still maintian travel, or even better, extend the cross brace, then raise the shocks. The best thing would be an aftermarket adjustable side shock mount made for the l4o. Does anyone know of such an animal from any of the conversion kits out?

Try shorting the ball cups.

My buddy has an L4 and he has the Silva battery tray and tray extender and he put a Maverick cross brace (04 version) on it. Its a lot more adjustable than the factory brace especially as far as shock length mounting holes. He didn't have to drill any holes to make it fit and it looks like it was made for the car.

Good Idea Bill I can always count on you though!!! :D

That doesn't make the thread end any shorter, and if you shorten the thread end, you jeopardize structural integrity.

You don't shorten the threads themselves...you shorten the plastic ball cups that you snap on the ball studs. When you shorten them, they will look small to some point..

Shorten them enough that when you snap them onto the car, while the car is at rest on flat table etc with nothing on the shocks. Measure with a set of dgital calipers the distance between the bottom of the shock body to the top of the spring retainers (where the spring sets, there is a tab on the top of it!). That distance should measure .170" on both shocks. The reason why you do this is the shocks are pressurized, and that .170" insures equal movement form side to side, places the little piston in the center of the shock body!!!

Do this and your will rock with the right setup!!!


Kris Fowler

Thanks Kris

My buddy has an L4 and he has the Silva battery tray and tray extender and he put a Maverick cross brace (04 version) on it. Its a lot more adjustable than the factory brace especially as far as shock length mounting holes. He didn't have to drill any holes to make it fit and it looks like it was made for the car.
Great Idea bro

You don't shorten the threads themselves...you shorten the plastic ball cups that you snap on the ball studs. When you shorten them, they will look small to some point..

Shorten them enough that when you snap them onto the car, while the car is at rest on flat table etc with nothing on the shocks. Measure with a set of dgital calipers the distance between the bottom of the shock body to the top of the spring retainers (where the spring sets, there is a tab on the top of it!). That distance should measure .170" on both shocks. The reason why you do this is the shocks are pressurized, and that .170" insures equal movement form side to side, places the little piston in the center of the shock body!!!

Do this and your will rock with the right setup!!!


Kris FowlerKris, you have a pic of this measurement? Not sure of exactly where to measure.

You are welcome ....

That works for any type car...whether it is a KSG, Hyperdrive, Associated, Cutom Works, Leading Edge or Undertaker....

Believe it or not guys, If you setup your car for stock like Sean Cochran's setup on the Associated website it rocks da house for me. I just changed the tires and figured out the other three wheel weights. I love my associated car....I am thinking about doing what one of the cats on here did with raising the shocks....and I am gonna do this trick I told you.....

I will post how it works....

Kris Fowler

Great cars love mine and having fun with it here in Iraq.

Win one for us................ Team Anaconda

I am looking for the shims that went under the front A arms would you know the number for that item?

i don't know the part number but which shims are you looking for the old sckool ones or the aluminum washers? I know KSG makes some from .060 -.100 and IRS makes some .015 & .030. and CRC makes one to that is similar to the old skool ones.

stesh - I had to pull out an old RC 10L catalog to find the number of the original black nylon spacers. They're called a "shim set" and the Associated part number is 4127. The description says the package contains a pair of zero degree and a pair of 2 degree. List price is $1.50 so you could buy a few packs just to get multiple pairs of the zero degree (you don't need the 2 degree shims).

I'm not familiar with the KSG and Irrgang items that davepull mentioned but I am familiar with the ones from CRC (www.teamcrc.com). CRC sells a package that contains slotted shims (you don't have to totally remove the screws to change shims - just loosen them) in various thicknesses. If you go to their website, you can see a large photo and that's worth 1,000 words. The package contains a pair of each of the following thicknesses - .010", .020", .030". Therefore, if you combine them, you can get .060" (nearly 1/16th of an inch) spacing. They're a little pricey, though. Almost $10 for the set. CRC part number is 4262.

Take davepull's advice and look at the KSG and IRS websites as well. It doesn't hurt to look at all of your options.

Kevin

Qual-Shen

I don't have a picture as of right now. But I will see if I can get the old digi-cam up and running to post a pic on my website.....

Kris

Panman what do you use for shims

And thanks everyone for the help

stesh - I use a combination of one old Associated black zero degree shim and a few aluminum shims that I made years ago. Actually, my aluminum shims look alot like the CRC shims - they're slotted so you just have to loosen the screws to remove them. I have aluminum shims made from .032" and .064" stock so I can go from .096" to .000" in 1/32" increments. They work great!

Kevin

I have a L4,and the best way to correct pushing with it would be?

Move the tray?
Adjust tweak?
Change front or rear springs? :confused:

I have a L4,and the best way to correct pushing with it would be?

Move the tray?
Adjust tweak?
Change front or rear springs? :confused:
Stop running caps and put some foams on there LOL....I'd start with the tweak first and work with different side combo. Then work with the RF string...better yet post your setup and we can go from there. Then when I come down to race I'll have race setup already. :thumbsup:

I have a L4,and the best way to correct pushing with it would be?

Move the tray?
Adjust tweak?
Change front or rear springs? :confused:
Run the pod on center, put two red wolfe springs in the front (with the wolfe king pins of course). put a red spring in the left side shock and a gold in the right and I bet that baby will turn...lol :freak:

Run the pod on center, put two red wolfe springs in the front (with the wolfe king pins of course). put a red spring in the left side shock and a gold in the right and I bet that baby will turn...lol :freak:

OK, Thanks Chris..

I use this setup for stock Nastruck at a short concrete tri-oval.



Chassis: L3
Battery Position: All the way to the outside of the battery holder(holes)
Springs: Front. Wolfe Green L and R
Front end: Stock Associated front end,S3003 servo.
Toe in-out: None
Caster: 1-2 deg left side,3-4 right side,1 wolfe,and 1 stock shim on the L and 2 stock shims in the back r caster block pin.
Camber: 2 deg Negative left and right
Hyperdrive tower shock mount (Alum.): Shock mounted in the 3rd hole from the bottom.
Rear Shocks: Associated stock
Rear Springs: Associated Green center,Silver Left,Silver Right
Shock Oil Weight: 50 center,35 L and R
T-Plate: Associated Stock .063
Motor: Fantom P2K
Spur: 100
Pinion: 38
Tires: BSR LF Green Standard,RF Standard Green Net,LR Narrow Green,RR Standard Green .

This was posted somewhere around page 3 of this thread,that is my L3,but I am making sure I am adjusting the correct thing/things on the L4 to get it to quit pushing.
I Don't have a setup yet,never ran it,plan on it though this Sunday up in Echeconnee.;)

Kevin,
Run the red springs up front like Chris suggested and leave the silver for the two side shocks. I can't remember the tire compounds but try the next softer tire.

Looks like a pretty steep gear. That ratio is 2.63 WOW. Be sure to check that motor especially on a short course. Your rollout is 2.74 guessing at a 2.30 tire dia. (concrete norm.) Tell me what driveline length is and I might get closer for a better gear ratio. Right now I am almost positive you are bogging down and not accelerating fast enough out of the corners.

Kevin,
Run the red springs up front like Chris suggested and leave the silver for the two side shocks. I can't remember the tire compounds but try the next softer tire.
Remember the softer that left side shock spring is the more grip in the rear your going to have. If it's pushing in the center put a heavier spring there and it will help free it up. I'm not up to speed on concrete but I 'm sure with that it will turn. maybe to much

Thanks guys. :thumbsup:

Qual_shen I'm not having problems with gearing as I don't even run that gear or motor that is posted anymore.I was just having a big Pushing problem on exit,and was seeing what I should jump on first on the L4 chassis as it is new to me. Thanks for the reply. ;)

Does any one know the size of the real small e clips that goes on the L4 front end - is it 2 mm or is it small than that.

Does any one know the size of the real small e clips that goes on the L4 front end - is it 2 mm or is it small than that.
I got tired of the e-clips popping or working their way out so I installed the DuBro 3/32" Collars. They slide on the pins and are locked by a set screw. Haven't had a problem of them coming off.

Thanks rcgen that is what I will do too.

I have a L4,and the best way to correct pushing with it would be?

Move the tray?
Adjust tweak?
Change front or rear springs? :confused:
first thing move the tray back and put the batt. all the back back and out on it that will stop it alot

first thing move the tray back and put the batt. all the back back and out on it that will stop it alot

Thanks :cool:

Hey guys,

any setups for running about a 13 degree banked concrete runline is about 200ft, I am running x-factor chassis and caps thanks Mike

HELP, mY SON RUNS AT TRI-CLONE HERE IN WIS.THE TRACK IS ASPHALT, 14 DEGREE BANKING,360 FT TRI OVAL. HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE CAR PUSHING COMING OUT OF THE CORNERS . THE CAR IS AN L4. ANY HELP IS GREATLY WELCOMED!!!!!

What happened to the support? Did everyone go to different cars? :(

You can move the wing foward a little bit or take some left rear out of the car or try a stiffer center shock spring with heavyer wieght oil

Joe D

Pushing from the center out is normaly caused by to much weight on the left rear. Try working with yor left rear weight using springs or preload. Also you can try moving the left rear in and out to make a more suttle change.
You didnt say if the car is pushing all through the run or not but if it starts pushing more as the tires warm up into a run you need to work with your tire compounds, try a harder left rear if its pushing later in a run. :cool:
You are running caps ?

What front springs are you running?

After rebuilding my L4, I had the opposite probem. My car was very loose from the center off. Putting .020 worth of spacers on the left rear solved the problem. Taking spacers *out* of the left rear may help correct a tight condition. Or, add spacers to the right rear. Thanks; Ernie P. :cool:

Have cured the problem , we took some preload out of the right front. I am running green springs in both of the fronts. Reset the tweak in the back, now the car is really smooth in the corners. Played with the gearing all weekend at the track, we ended up winning the main for our class. WE have come a long way in only 8 weeks. :thumbsup:

Good Deal :thumbsup:

Lee :cool:
Have Hyperdrive will RACE!!!

On flat asphalt what would you set your tweak at for L4, then for flat concrete. I seem to be hooking up but just seems way off when i pick the car up. I do not know please help. Also maybe a tire suggestion cause its really hot here in Iraq and I may not be using the right tire combos.

Hey guys, I need some parts for an L4. I need a foam bumper, servo mounts, and a center shock mount. I was told hyperdrive makes a carbon fiber center shock mount, but I need part #'s for these parts. Also, if you recommend a certain part over the stock component, let me know. Thanks guys!

http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog/index.php

Well, I found 2 shock mounts...one's silver, the other is red...any difference?

As for the foam bumper and servo mounts, didn't find anything... If you've got part numbers, I appreciate those. Thanks!

Just call Jakes Performance hobbies at (707) 586-3375, you won't need part #'s, just tell them what you want & it will be shipped out fast!

Hey Uberdud, go to Lefthanders web sight, he has everything you will need for your L4. I use KSG center shock mounts, and Hyperdrive bumpers, they are lighter then team assoc. ones. I deal with Lefthander on a weekly basis, my son and i race with the ownwer and his son. So if there is anything you need he can help, they are good people :thumbsup:

Awesome! Thanks!