that is what associated recomends but everytime you buy tires or even rotate your tires you will have to cut your rims. Not to mention the difference in traction you may experience, not worth the trouble in my book

it's a piece if cake to trim ..only problem is you can't rotate.

The lower pod on all 10L cars had a problem with clearance, both for left side tire and installing motors (just a tad small). To gain tire clearance two methods can be used 1.remove some material to gain tire clearance 2. use a spacer on left side to gain tire clearance. Also to make motor installation easier grind away material on the inside of pod plate. The problem you may run into grinding both sides is pod becomes weaker - apply CA to all areas of pod - allow to slow cure 24hr, sand and apply second coat to help add some strength.

thanks, that's what i did.
next question:what is the best way to adjust for toe. Thanks, Eddie

I am going to start running the 4 cell spec class at Sandhills. wondering if anyone has a basic setup for the new carpet

Thanks
Traxxasguy

Hey guys, I'm putting together a 4-cell 19T car and I've got some questions. I'm running an L4 on flat carpet tracks. Fast guys at the tracks are running 3 pinks and a purple RF. springs and shock oil vary depending on the driver, but I'll figure that out later or from earlier posts. my main question is this...where should I run the battery? A lot of the other guys are running different cars (HD, KSG, KGB) and most have the battery all the way back and out. I was just wanting some opinions on what everyone thinks about battery placement. I had considered going pack to the six cell tray and mounting the ESC on the back of the plate and the battery towards the front (would actually end up in the middle of the car).

thanks in advance for your advice.

i like my car with the battery in the middle. that is in the middle holes on the slider and I run it all the way out. Mike Boylan is probably the top oval racer in the country and I know he runs his close to the middle and uses the Silva tray extender and runs the batts all the way out.

Just started racing on a flat track most had been on banked ovals.

Front: Left-Green Wolffe Spring, 1.5 to 2 degree postive camber, black Jaco, spacers 1 forward, 1 rear, kingpin (wolffe) both spacers on top
Right - Green Spring, 2 -2.5 degrees negative camber, Black jaco Tires, spacers toward front, kingpin one spacer above, 1 below suspension arm moun
Side shocks- 30wt oil Left- Blue , Right- Orange Center-30wt #2 piston - silver spring
Rear- White Jaco 2 1/4 in washers installed w/black spacers
Battery- 6cell battery tray (4cell racing) battery all the way out using the middle slots with esc mounted to rear of battery tray. Receiver mtd behind steering servo, receiver pack on front or to left of servo.
Tweak - 3-5 turns on left side (banked carpet was neutral)
Body - Protoform 02 MC running just a spoiler.
Traction Compound (Paragon) applied to rears tires, LF 1/4 of inside edge, RF 1/4 to 1/2 varing left of time it's left on.

Track is new, so as more cars run on it setup may change a little. Blues fronts too hard, grays too much bite, greens just wore out, purples pushed at start then got a bit too sticky (had to adjust driving).

Just started racing on a flat track most had been on banked ovals.

Front: Left-Green Wolffe Spring, 1.5 to 2 degree postive camber, black Jaco, spacers 1 forward, 1 rear, kingpin (wolffe) both spacers on top
Right - Green Spring, 2 -2.5 degrees negative camber, Black jaco Tires, spacers toward front, kingpin one spacer above, 1 below suspension arm moun
Side shocks- 30wt oil Left- Blue , Right- Orange Center-30wt #2 piston - silver spring
Rear- White Jaco 2 1/4 in washers installed w/black spacers
Battery- 6cell battery tray (4cell racing) battery all the way out using the middle slots with esc mounted to rear of battery tray. Receiver mtd behind steering servo, receiver pack on front or to left of servo.
Tweak - 3-5 turns on left side (banked carpet was neutral)
Body - Protoform 02 MC running just a spoiler.
Traction Compound (Paragon) applied to rears tires, LF 1/4 of inside edge, RF 1/4 to 1/2 varing left of time it's left on.

Track is new, so as more cars run on it setup may change a little. Blues fronts too hard, grays too much bite, greens just wore out, purples pushed at start then got a bit too sticky (had to adjust driving).

Sounds like York?
That's pretty much the setup I run there as well. Only less camber,
and a little stiffer RF.
I didn't use much compound either on the fronts. I thought the track
had plenty of grip...

The Right side shock should be Gold not orange.
Yes it's the York track, built a 2nd 10L4 just for that track and the one other I setup for Maine. Been getting outta work later or can't get the time off for the big races.

On the L30 do you set your rear end tweak using tweak screws on the T-plate like the old 10L? or do you set your tweak with the side shocks?

I think my 10L30 (bought used) has an old 10L T plate on it...

2 other questions:

1) I see that the rear pod can be moved to the left 1/4 " to offset it. What does this accomplish and when would you want to do that?

2) what springs are a good starting point for a fast, banked ashpalt oval? Also what colors or sizes is the order of springs from softest to stiffest?

The 10L, 10LSS, 10L2 used the tweak screw setup to adjust tweak. The 10L3O uses side shocks as a means to tweak chassis. Final adjustment depends on the track layout settings: Left 30wt oil, blue spring Right 30wt oil Red spring, Center shock 40wt#1 piston, black spring. Still adjust shock left side to tweak right front. left rear or right shock to tweak left front - right rear. The offset pod setup was supposed to be more for a flat track layout, but the standard pod with the right adjustments work as well. For the offset pod setup you need the wide diff hub. For flat track front springs are green Wolfe, banked black and shocks are setup differently left uses blue, right uses gold (Associated), Silver spring on center. Tweak is neutral for banked, 2 to 3 and a half turns on left shock for flat. This is for the Team chassis with adjustable battery tray.

Well I ran my 10L30 for the first time this weekend. Sadly the result were not as good as I hoped. Believe it or not, the corners weren't the problem, it was the straights!

The car was pretty well balanced through the corners, maybe a bit loose coming off, but down the straights is was so TWITCHY! A slight turn of the steering wheel would send the car darting to the left or the right. Then when you tried to correct it, it would go back the other way.

Is this a chassis set up issue? or a radio set up issue? seems liek the steering has got to be slowed down. I'm not talking about the amount of steering, cause I'm not even getting the wheels to full lock. 1/8" turn of the wheel on the radio and this thing is gone!

Is it springs? do I need more toe out on the front? is it in the radio?

What radio are you using?

Did you try to adjust the dual rate position on it?

I think we solved the issue in another thread.

Dual rate wouldn;t work, because dual rate limits the amount the wheels turn left or right, exponential (referred to as ARC in my MX-3 instruction manual) determines how fast the servo turns in the initial part of the turning stage.

Sort of, I may not have said all that right.

YEP... Steering Exponential.. ;) , sorry...

I had the same problem with mine getting squirly on the straightaways on a medium sized track,and a guy dialed it in for me,actually took some out ,well alot out and it actually went straight on the straightaways.. :lol: Man it felt good !!!!

This may sound silly but alot of times drivers attempt to drive there cars down the straightaways. A correctly trimed car will drive itself down the straightaways and the less you try and drive it down the straights the faster it will run. Ok Kevin go ahead and say it ! BTW I gotta doughnut for Ya ! :lol:

I have cleaned the donuts off the the truck for the E.C. Showdown,so no donuts this time.(your lucky) :lol: Maybe next Nastruck race in Branford or J-Ville...

Lee I would have to thank George and Tom for the radio help,heck of alot easier when you don't have to drive it... Kevin

:lol: I,m painting up a new bod for the pooler race, The # 0 doughnut delivery truck :lol:

You're right that its faster when you don't have to drive it down the straights... but sometimes you have to make slight corrections. The way the car was, the slightest of corrections would make everything a WHOLE lot worse. I think I have it handled now though.

Will the 10L40 front end bolt onto the 10L30 chassis? I like all the options that front end has for front arm geometry.

Yes, the front end for the L4 will fit on the L3 chassis.

Chris

After a few weeks of practicing I'm still not exactly sure how some changes are supposed to affect the car. Namely in the area of the 3 rear springs. I know how to dial in preload to put tweak in the chassis, but what do stiffer or softer micro (side) springs do?

What does a softer/stiffer macro shock spring do?

What about a thicker t-plate?

THanks

Q-ball

Micro shocks
The softer you're using the fastest the wheight will transfer from one side to the other.
We're usaully using lighter oil with softer springs and the opposite when we're using harder springs.
Then for larger tracks with fast corners, we'll drive harder springs setup than on a small track or on tight turns.
The traction is also a other factor to drive faster or softer side springs.
More traction, we'll use harder springs, you might use.
One of the most important thing on your car is your tires.

http://www3.sympatico.ca/tqcells/setup.htm
This is a excellent setup to start with.
http://www.rc-oval.com
This is a excellent web site to get informations for oval racing. :cool:

I think I found one of the handling problems on my car. Under the front lower suspension arm, someone had put a 1/4" spacer that does not show up on the exploded car illustration by associated. Thus my front end was real low. - about 3/16" clearance.

Also, how do you adjust the caster in the front end of the car? I think I need to add some.

Am I correct in thinking that MORE caster adds front end stability in a straight line, but makes turning harder?

Q-ball

Caster on the L3 front end (and I believe the L4) is adjusted by the white spacers. If you slide the pin out, and put the two white spacers in the front, that's positive camber. Putting them in the back is negative camber and one on each side is nuetral. (I believe the positive and negative to be correct)

Actually adding caster, "leaning" the tire forward should produce a more aggressive turn in.

I'm not the best at setup, still learning, so I apologize if my description of caster is off.

Chris

What most guys use for spacer under the front end are the 1/8 x1/32 washers depending on track layout and what size tires they run. Some use 2 washers (4each side) or one for each mounting point.

For those using the Wolfe kingpin and spring setup some install the black spacers this way left side both on top, with 2-3 brass shims and for right 1 on top, one below suspensions arms with shims on tops.

Anyone have anything new to add before I start at the beginning reading this??LOLOl

Anyone have anything new to add before I start at the beginning reading this??LOLOl


Before you do anything to your car realize this, If you look at 100 peoples cars of the exact same make and model chances are that you'll see 100 different setups. Read everything you can and file it away in your memory bank then start tuning on your own car with the knowledge that somewhere in about a million diffferent setups is the one that you will like. Now if you're like most of us, Once you find that magical setup you will once again be tempted to try something diffferent and before long you'll have your setup so far out in left field that you'll have to revert to the original setup and start the process of slowing down a perfectly good car all over again.:rolleyes: Welcome to the wonderful world of racing. This holds true whether you're racing r/c or full size cars so enjoy the ride.

LOL Mr Butts my grandfather called it tinkeritis. Messing with something that was running perfect in the first place.

Hey Smokefan...How did the setup I gave you as a starting point work for you this weekend???


Kris

Had to work couldn't race bummer huh you want the batts or not. If you don't they are going on ebay later this week

Not alot of info I could find so figured I would ask here and see if someone could help me out with a base set-up to start with. I just picked up an L4 and will be running it in the 19T 4-cell class. I notice it has the gold r/f springs and the rear three are silver with a 110t spur. The track is a large oval asphalt 190' X 86' and the lap times are 8-9 seconds. I only have Chameleon 2 motors and will start with one of those. Here are a few things suggested to me:
Front springs-wolfe standard reds
Rear side springs-red right-blueleft 30wt oil
center shock-60wt with green spring
Set the tweek with the battery in and race ready. This is a critical adjustment. Find the center point on the front of the chasis. Lift up and you will have one front tire lift first( usually the right)tighten the right side spring and loosen the leftside spring until both front tires come up at the same time. This is a good starting point.

Can anyone else give this newb any other set-up advice and what is wolfe standard? Thanks in advance! Gene

I can tell you this about the springs wolfe has standard, progressive,bubba springs
go to there website(wolfemotorsports.com) and it will tell you and show you the difference

Thanks Smoke! That's a start! Any other help?

No I am new to carpet and just got my L4 and haven't had it on the track yet. I don't know sqwat LOLOLOL. I do have a couple of the fast guys that are helping me out.
Have you talked to any of the fast guys at your track for any set up help. The set up I have that I have not tried yet is for carpet and I doubt would do you any good.

I have gotten a few tips from some of the regulars but I just got my L4 as well and just trying to set up the car the best I can before I take it out. Thanks

I need help on finding part for the L4 IRS front end, I need the small e clip and shims for that car.

www.teamirsrc.com

I need help on finding part for the L4 IRS front end, I need the small e clip and shims for that car.

The Associated part numbers are:

8506 - pin & e-clips

8507 - e-clips & shims

http://www.teamassociated.com/misc/database/db_kit10l4o.htm

http://download.teamassociated.com/pdf/catalogs/drawing_10l4ob.pdf

Any hobbyshop should be able to get them.

RC

Hey guys just got an L4...I want to put an Nastruck body on it. What kinds fit? I see companies (Dahms etc) offer 190 and 200mm (or ss and wide as they call them) I figure the L4 can use the same type bodies as the L3 right? So the more narrow type bodies right?

Thanks

Paul

You will want a SS (SuperSpeedway) narrow type body. McAllister racing makes all the current style Nastrucks except the Dodge....check out what they have......


http://www.mcallisterracing.com

Tell Gary I sent you...

Kris Fowler

Thanks...I guess the others would be too big right?

Paul

They will fit......but I am partial to the McAllister bodies since I have used them all in Nastruck.....

Prolly your best bet would be THe Ford F-150 or the Chevy Silverado... if you are going with McAllister.....

KRis

who has the best price on new l4s?

who has the best price on new l4s?
Hobby Shop on ebay has them NIB for $229.00

Mike I would check with Jon's. I thought (I'm not positive though) he was selling them for under $200

RC

i think your right i will have to call him