View Full Version : Official Hyperdrive Thread.....................
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Tornado_Racing 06-13-2004, 11:20 AM Just wanted to let everyone know Hyperdrive won 3 of the 4 classes at the ARCOR NC State race at Chatham R/C Speedway last night. Hyperdrive also reset 2 track records as well. Mike Wilson on a PRO2 in 19 Zero and Jamie Raymer on a 700 in Stock.
Spec
TQ Marty Freedle (PRO2)
1st Brooks Derting (PRO2 Shorty)
Stock
TQ Jamie Raymer (track record by a lap on a 700)
1st Jamie Raymer (won by 2 laps on a 700)
19 Zero
TQ Mike Wilson (track record by a lap on a PRO 2)
1st Mike Wilson (PRO2)
Congrats to all of the winners last night and to Barry and Joe for the awesome cars!
If anyone has any questions or comments about Hyperdrive cars just post them here. We will try to get all of them answered ASAP!
Mike Wilson 06-13-2004, 12:55 PM Congrats to all of the winners last night and to Barry and Joe for the awesome cars![/QUOTE]
My thoughts exactly Tony. My Pro2 is awesome in 19 0 degree and am in the process of getting my 700 ready for some 19 Open action. The Hyperdrive Team guys are the best when you need help with your car as well, Special Thanks to Humpty Helms for everything he has done for me in the last year.
Tornado_Racing 06-13-2004, 12:58 PM I agree Mike, big props to Jeff "Humpy" Helms for the set up tips. Jeff has been a big help in the last couple of months after switching to Hyperdrive. If you ever need any help at all, just give Humpty a holla' as he WILL hook you up.
Thanks a bunch Jeff.
joseoval 06-13-2004, 05:34 PM i have a couple hyperdrive cars and love them 1 pro2 and 1 shorty i need to know a good starting point for track width and length to run at ashville i would be running stock 4 cell if available to run there
Tornado_Racing 06-13-2004, 06:43 PM I would use this set up as a starting point for any flat track on caps. This is my record set up in 4-cell stock at Chatham.
Bandit HD Monte Carlo
Buds big wing, no bi-level
PRO2 shorty in long wheelbase up front and short on t-plate
LF
Centered .060 plate
Red spring
.040 preload
9110 pin
Wolfe oncenter axle no shims behind wheel
Green L Pro-lite
0 caster HD block in middle hole
RF
Narrow .060 plate
Red spring
.060 preload
9110 pin
Wolfe Oncenter axle no shims behind wheel
Pink L net
split caster stock associated block
Center
HD graphite center shock mount top hole
2nd hole front front (mount on chassis)
HPI PRS Hardcoat shock w/.090 long RPM ball cup
#1 piston 50 wt. oil
3" total center shock length
Silva black spring 7 rounds of preload
Associated spring retainer
Finishline "L" shaped double slot spring steel
1 shim under front pivot ball
pod flush/even with chassis
LR
Silva PRS hardcoat shock w/o-ring seal
25wt. oil
RPM short ball cups both sides and no shims
Associated Opaque 6lb. spring
Tall ball stud mounted 2nd hole in
Green L prolite narrow
RR
Silva PRS hardcoat w/o-ring seal
25wt. oil
RPM short ball cups both sides no shims
Associated Black 4LB. spring
Tall ball stud mounted 2nd hole in
Pink R net wide
#1's down in the rear
Offset pod
Line up left sides and the outside LR to outside RR 7 3/4"
Mount the wing on the pod as low to the deck as possible. Edge of wing even
with kick up on deck spoiler
EAMotorsports 06-13-2004, 07:49 PM Hey Fatback....how long are the 9110 kingpins? Ive got some but they are all mixed in with my other stuff and need to do the front end for vegas.
EA
Humpty 06-13-2004, 07:51 PM Longer than stock kingpins and shorter than wolfe kingpins
Looks about like what i sent you,huh jose?come on down a bring a couple buddies,6c spec is the pick class now,probably have 4c stk at NORRCA race.
Big Willy 06-14-2004, 12:45 PM Hi guys
Am running the Kimbrough race in Vegas this week, and was wondering about some stuff. Track is 510 ft drive line lightly banked corners. Just started running the Pro 2 and so far is 2 laps faster than my L4. (local 150' flat track) trying to just some ideas on how the car has reacted for those of you who run it consistantly. Here is my setup: (flat track) Tires are Purples.
LF = top a arm level (3 hole)
9110 kingpin
Wolfe Pro green spring minimal preload
.5 caster
.5 camber
Rf = top a arm just below level (4 hole )
9110 kingpin
Wolfe Pro red spring minimal preload
2.0 degrees caster
0 deg camber
rear = HD bias ply t-plate 1/4 slotted (level on chassis)
pod on center
side shocks= silva 40 wt. silva bronze springs
center shock = hpi 50 wt #2 piston silva silver spring
#2 axle inserts
minimal tweak (almost none) maybe 6 lbs.
So far on a 150' flat track, this setup works very well. Car could be a loosened up a tick. (tick tight till i get the handle) What would you from experience do to setup to run such a long flat driveline? Any ideas will be added to my notebook. Thanks ahead of time!!!!!
20TN40 06-14-2004, 03:28 PM I'm looking for tips and tricks to free up my car in the corners. Let me preface that by saying that I'm still on a learning curve and do aknowledge that I'm not ready to run a really loose and free car. So what I'm looking for is some beginner steps to free up the car in the corners.......not Andy Mac or Eric Anderson steps! LOL
RuntRacing25 06-14-2004, 03:48 PM Lisa....jus load it up with viagra...stiffer the better!! but they a fine line in too much....
Brandon_25
Team HD
SMC
Bandit Bodies
Bulit motorsports
Finishline
Kimbrough
20TN40 06-14-2004, 04:02 PM Yep, I know that real well, Brandon! I just want to put one toe over the line, not the whole foot yet! I probably can't ask it on this thread but........anyway.......was that a Bandit body you ran Saturday? Anyone else at BMS running Bandit bodies?
erock1331 06-14-2004, 04:04 PM First you have to determine what your car is doing.
Is it ?
A. Scrubbing speed in the turns so you need to free it up or
B. The car is not scrubbing (efficient through the turns) but the car is too planted?
That is 2 different things you are working with there.
Usually if the car is scrubbing I always find it is in my front kingpins. Always make sure they are polished/sanded and lubed. I recommend Bolink Sure lube or Zubak's speed goop. Also as you polish the pins and you have em chucked in the dremel make sure they are not bent. Another way to easily check for bent pins is by rolling them on a flat surface. Put the pins back in and make sure the pivot balls are not worn out and no slop is in them. Make sure the kingpins move up and down with ease and there is no binding this is really important, spend a lot of time here. Also make sure your front bearings are good and the spindle is not bent at all. If you take a good hit to the front end make sure the alum castor blocks are not bent.
Did you double check your camber and castor to make sure you have them set where they need to be? Ask the local hotshoes and they can assist you in the proper settings for your track. Check them in this order, castor/camber/front end alignment (toe in/toe out). This is very important and often overlooked and make sure to check it often cause a big hit can knock it all out of alignment.
Now the front end is all built properly, are you sure you have the proper front springs? I have learned that this is key to a fast car. What works for some will not work for others. For every track I race on, I try and get my car to about 25-28 on dual rate on my radio. I know if I need 35 dual rate that my car is sprung too stiff up front. If the dual rate is only about 15, then I know I am too soft up front. Find the happy medium.
Make sure the side shocks are re-built often. I re-do mine each week. I have felt shocks that feel good then you open em up and they have no oil whatsoever in them. The car will not work properly with tired shocks.
Okay so the car is efficient now through the turns but the car is still too planted.
First I would take some tweak out - Keep taking tweak out until the car loops on you. Measure it, then add a tad more tweak until you can drive it again. If you are running a larger Right Front tire than the Left front you may not need as much tweak in the car. Because the larger RF tire is putting weight on the LR.
Try adding some preload to the center spring or go with a harder center spring.
Next I would change tires. I have no clue with caps as I do not run them regularly.
If you run foams put harder tires on to get the car up off the carpet.
Maybe try a harder t-plate.
But if the track is bumpy that will not work.
Raise the wing up off the deck lid. The lower the wing = more rear downforce.
Experiment with different bodies - If the car is stuck with say an HD Monte, try a Dodge. I normally run the Proto Taurus but when I needed to car to be a tad more free I would throw a Bolink Taurus on.
Hope that helps
Eric H.
20TN40 06-14-2004, 04:11 PM Eric, that helps a TON! Thanks! Just for reference, I'm running BMS and I'm sure you know that track. So it's caps and a high banked track.
BRDRACING 06-14-2004, 04:18 PM Lisa, Eric is always a big help just remember try one thing at a time then, and if it doesn't work go back one step and try something else!
Brooks
BRDRACING 06-14-2004, 04:52 PM Thanks needs to got to Barry and Joe for the great car that I got to win spec with this weekend! I love my Shorty pro2!
Also need to thank Tony "Fatback" Moffre and Jeff "Humpty" Helms for all the set up help that they gave me!
Hyperdrive has the best guys, They will go out of their way to help out!
Thank you
Brooks
erock1331 06-14-2004, 05:00 PM Eric, that helps a TON! Thanks! Just for reference, I'm running BMS and I'm sure you know that track. So it's caps and a high banked track.
Lisa,
Yes I have been to BMS. That track takes a lot of work to be fast.
Brandon S. runs for Hyperdrive down there. He should be able to help you out.
One thing I know was to not drive the car down the straights at all there. If you do you lose tenths.
Watch the line the hot shoes there run and try and run that line. If I remember right in the front shoot you wanted the car to touch the yellow line 3/4th the way down the straight and in the back shoot you wanted to stay under the yellow line to be quick.
I am not a cap racer. I know there are a lot of tips and tricks to figuring out the proper tire prep techniques. So ask around.
20TN40 06-14-2004, 09:04 PM Brandon won't help me........he's helping Dennis "Daredevil" Dean! LOL I'm telling ya, it's fend for yourself at BMS lately! Every time we think we've got something figured out in Spec, Lee Ricker tacks another lap on the record! I'm figuring in a few more weeks, the Spec record will be higher than the Super Spec record!
Lee has been a good help to me in working on my radio and working on my springs. But in Spec, we just about stand in awe when he hits the track. Course, he's also running Super Spec where he upped the track record to 44 4:03, spec is 42 4:01.
JSJ Racing 06-14-2004, 09:12 PM That's my boy! :)
:wave:
tracy339 06-14-2004, 10:13 PM Hey Lisa, what am I.....chopped liver?? LOL!
rc lee 06-14-2004, 10:19 PM Easy Now LOL
See Ya Lee
20TN40 06-15-2004, 01:14 AM Tracy, you is da man that explains to me what everyone else says all week! LOL If you could have seen the faces on the drivers stand when ya'll got 43........and Lee got 44. That was one of those Mastercard priceless moments! (Maybe if we keep bolstering his ego, he won't be able to get out of the trailer by July 4th!) You DA A MAIN CREWCHIEF!
RuntRacing25 06-15-2004, 01:45 AM Lisa..ill help ya i help n e one,u no where my trailer is!!...i got pretty boy russ's car running 41...now if he can wheel the thing!!!!lol
20TN40 06-15-2004, 07:59 AM Brandon, what chassis and body are you running at BMS?
rayhuang 06-15-2004, 11:34 AM Hey Drivas,
I could use some help on building my 510. The track is an Ozite flat oval-very green surface. I have been told that its going to be very Snowbirds in size!!
I am running a standard front end and would like to know what caster to run left and right and also how much camber left and right? And last question-What thickness fiberglass t-bar?
Thanks,
Ray
erock1331 06-15-2004, 12:40 PM Ray
Check out this link
is it to Steve Salvas's website which has a good setup.
http://www3.sympatico.ca/tqcells/setup.htm
I am going to start with
LF - Red spring, 0 degrees castor, 2 degrees camber
RF - Green spring, 2 degrees castor, 2 degrees camber
Side shocks - 30 wt, Blue spring LR, Silver spring RR
Center - HPI shock, 55 wt, #2 piston, long shaft, 3-6 lb spring
#2 hole up from the top on the shock tower
.062 Pheonelic Hyperdrive t-plate
Offset pod
7 7/8" total rear track width.
RuntRacing25 06-15-2004, 12:40 PM Lisa, pro-2 and Bandit Tauras..anything else just holler...
rayhuang 06-15-2004, 01:15 PM Thank you!! I wanted to nail down the parts on the car that were not as easy to adjust trackside!!! This is a great help. I may even have the combo right front BSR coming as well!!! I orderd red, green and white Wolfe front springs,I got the side springs, but I dont think I have any appropriate center springs.
Ray
Check out this link
is it to Steve Salvas's website which has a good setup.
http://www3.sympatico.ca/tqcells/setup.htm
I am going to start with
LF - Red spring, 0 degrees castor, 2 degrees camber
RF - Green spring, 2 degrees castor, 2 degrees camber
Side shocks - 30 wt, Blue spring LR, Silver spring RR
Center - HPI shock, 55 wt, #2 piston, long shaft, 3-6 lb spring
#2 hole up from the top on the shock tower
.062 Pheonelic Hyperdrive t-plate
Offset pod
7 7/8" total rear track width.
erock1331 06-15-2004, 01:50 PM Do you have any green TC3 springs?
Its about 12 lbs. Might be a little stiff but it would probably get you buy.
If you dont use the softest sedan spring you got for the middle.
rayhuang 06-15-2004, 03:05 PM I will look around for the softest spring I own. I think the lowest I have is around 17 or 18. I would assume that if its too stiff-I could lower the front of the shock to transfer less weight forward???
erock1331 06-15-2004, 03:29 PM Ray,
Just see me at the track I have one you can run.
See you there,
Eric H.
JW Housley 06-16-2004, 03:49 AM Hey Lisa, Bandit Taurus and Hyperdrive Chassis!!! If you need any help just come and see me or Whit.
JWHousley
20TN40 06-16-2004, 08:24 AM Thanks William and Whit. I'll take you up on that!
Tornado_Racing 06-16-2004, 08:27 AM Dang, don't you kids sleep in anymore? It's a bit early huh Lisa? lol
RuntRacing25 06-16-2004, 12:07 PM This is a job for JWH....lol !!!
Brandon_25
Team HD
SMC
Bandit Bodies
Bulit motorsports
Finishline
Kimbrough
20TN40 06-16-2004, 01:20 PM My sleep schedule is all messed up! LOL I'm just wondering if it's ever gonna quit raining here...I think I saw an ark float by this morning!
RuntRacing25 06-16-2004, 01:36 PM I heard that.....maybe it'll rain all week and we will be set for sat!!
Brandon_25
Team HD
SMC
Bandit Bodies
Bulit motorsports
Finishline
Kimbrough
joseoval 06-16-2004, 04:24 PM Lisa you need to just getout of that trailer you are in at bms and go pit with lee(lol) hes a bit faster............and i think he might even let you in on secret or 3,or you could just stay with tracy and support him he needs it
tracy339 06-16-2004, 05:28 PM LOL! I tell ya, I get "no respect"!!
rcovalracer 06-16-2004, 06:22 PM Does anyone have any tips on setting up a 510 for a bumpy,banked,concrete,tri-oval?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.. Kevin
Tornado_Racing 06-16-2004, 06:24 PM Kevin......are you running on caps? If so try the set up I listed on page one!
20TN40 06-16-2004, 09:44 PM Jose, I'm sticking with Tracy to the end! But we can always use some helpful hints from our neighbors! I'm lining up a group of racers that are 5th on down in the points to fasten Lee up in his trailer! LOL I'm having a hard time wrangling these "out of town" HD drivers into coming to BMS for the Firecracker. Maybe you could tell them how badly we need support in the RED WHITE BLUE CHASSIS CHALLENGE! LOL
davepull 06-16-2004, 10:06 PM I have a question on the hyperdrive five hole castor blocks. to get 0 deg castor on the left front how many white shims go where? and on the right front how many shims in the rear to get like 2 and how many for 4?
Tornado_Racing 06-16-2004, 10:12 PM Hey Dave,
On the HD skyscrapper caster block (lol just kiddin' Barry) I use 10 thin #2 flat washers total. I run 7 in front and 3 in the back and it lines the LF straight up at 0 degree. I use 4 on the RF with the stock Associated block and run them split.
If you need some drop me an e-mail and I'll hook you up.
rayhuang 06-16-2004, 10:39 PM Hello all,
I sadly need more help now. I am staring at this 510 and have no idea how to put it back together. I see it has perches for tweak screws with nylon inserts. What springs do I run on them to set tweak?
Also-on the rear axledo i center the axle along the centerline of the T-plate or is it offset? Understand I noy have a standard AE 1/10th scale axle-no offset hubs!!
Man-this is gonna be a LONG night-I think I need to start drining heavily now!!
Ray
Tornado_Racing 06-16-2004, 10:43 PM Ray are you talking about the dillion tweek system?
rayhuang 06-16-2004, 10:45 PM Ray are you talking about the dillion tweek system?
Umm_I dont know. Off the t-plate is a perch with two nylon spring perches. ON th cross brace are the correspommdng eprches with adjustment springs. Make no sens as one 4-40 screw is completely obscured from adjustment by the top plate.
I am LOST-I admit it. And race is in two days!!
rayhuang 06-16-2004, 10:46 PM Ima going to put on the front end for now!! That I know how o do!! I'll be back in a little while.
Thanks,
Ray
Tornado_Racing 06-16-2004, 10:48 PM Can you post some pics of what your parts look like? I am not sure what "perches" are.
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