No mr. nice guy-your gonna be beating me soon-so I gotta get my jabs in now!!

Adam-I would keep the arbor and the speed control. But thats me. THose are things you can just pack away and dont want to buy twice.

#30100 Team Associated RC10TC4 Team Kit
Suggested retail price:$369.99
Projected Availability: September 2004
Oh my. I could actually possibly have one by the time the season starts. Get busy Jimmy!!!!

I am considering selling my brand new X-Ray FK and associated gear. Work has gotten mutch more nusy and I think I only will have time to concentrate on one class of racing for the forseeable future. That will be 12 scale.

So, if someone makes me a fair offer for the gear, I will ilekly part with it.

Please keep in mind that ALL of this gear is brand new, never once been used, even for a second.

the x-ray was carefully built by me and mostly set-up, but of course never run.

Accesories:

Mounted in the car is a brand new LRP Quantum 2 speed control and KR Propo servo. I don't have the model # in front of me, but I bought it at the track for like $95.

Also mounted on the car are 4 unused, but trued tires.

I have another set of new untued tires as well.

Unpainted and uncut Parma Alpha body

X-ray ultimate spring set
$90 worth of x-ray replacement parts. These are the more vulnerable parts that Ray H. advised me to get

hudy touring car tire truer adapter.

2 matched Gp 3300 packs (not built yet) purchased from AJ's. The are like 1.57's or so.

I will sell listed things seperately.

Thanks,

Adam.

PS - I hope to be recovered enough from injury and surgery to race in 2 -4 weeks.

Hi guys,

Car and X-Ray spare parts are sold. Everything else is for sale.

The servo is Ko Propro PDS-2143FET

-Adam

How would I go about getting one of those new BMI 12L4 conversions as well as the new pod plates?

One thing I was wondering about the pod plates is that they are supposed to be more precise in regards to the oval holes where the ride hieght inserts go. This is supposed to free up the rotation of the rear axle. But I have to wonder whether the ride height inserts are uniformely accurate enough to not mess things up.

Hey Adam,

According to Jason at BMI-there will be variation from nsert to insert, but that is more on how hard they squish the bearings in the seat. The BMI pods combined with their top and bottom plates are supposed to be ultra precision cut so the axle has no angle to bind it up.

Wayne will see this tomorrow I bet and let you know about how long it will be. They still have some really innovative ideas to incorporate in the final version.

Hey Adam,

According to Jason at BMI-there will be variation from nsert to insert, but that is more on how hard they squish the bearings in the seat. The BMI pods combined with their top and bottom plates are supposed to be ultra precision cut so the axle has no angle to bind it up.

Wayne will see this tomorrow I bet and let you know about how long it will be. They still have some really innovative ideas to incorporate in the final version.


Why not make a set of precision machined inserts? The plastic one always seem to have problems either fitting into the pods or the bearing fitting into the insert.

But I have to wonder whether the ride height inserts are uniformely accurate enough to not mess things up.

Why not make a set of precision machined inserts? The plastic one always seem to have problems either fitting into the pods or the bearing fitting into the insert.

Have I mentioned that I am falling for Adam? :eek:

I think you know what I mean. :thumbsup:

Have I mentioned that I am falling for Adam? :eek:

I think you know what I mean. :thumbsup:


You sound like a teenage girl, having her first crush.

Wayne-how hard would it be to have Delrin or nylon inserts made? I think an aluminum insert in an aluminum pod plate would spell disaster over time. I think the pod plates are T6-so they should not get too buggered-up (industry term) by a hard plastic/nylon.composite pill.

Not a shabby idea Mr . Krisgel

Wayne-how hard would it be to have Delrin or nylon inserts made? I think an aluminum insert in an aluminum pod plate would spell disaster over time. I think the pod plates are T6-so they should not get too buggered-up (industry term) by a hard plastic/nylon.composite pill.

Not a shabby idea Mr . Krisgel


The other thing I find that is needed is a ride height adjuster that is half way between size 4 and I think the next size down is size 2. Switching between these two sizes changes the ride height more than is desired.

Adjust the preload on the shock (a turn or so), it will give you a small amount of change in the rear ride hgt. (1/2 to 1mm) If you change the preload too much it wil affect the cars weight transfer front to back.. not good!!
-Wayne

Ray...
I'll see what Jason can do... I have him loaded down with work!!!
-Wayne

Ray - Ray

How long after you put a pack into the novak tray with ds will the lights go out?

Deadshorting my first pack but not sure time involved.

Thankx

MC

I dnt know-I deadshort on my integy Octane. But I believe the lights will blink or something when its deadshorted!! When in doubt-longer the better!! ON my integy after lights out I try and wait a minmum of 45 minutes.

And deadshort the pack while its in the tray.

That ultra thin solder is a great jumper to use for dead shorting your packs. I know Ray has some. Just cut a piece 6" long and drape it across your +/- tabs and voila. If there is too much voltage in the pack, the thin solder will break just like a fuse. It's pretty fool proof from what I understand. That's a tip from Robert J. King.

I thought you had the novak trya. After a bit it did start blinking. Instructions on box a little vague.

Thanks guys - hope that it wakes the packs up and helps me.

Most likely going to put the gt-7 into the tc3 and set the lrp aside, also gonna go thru the car to free some things up and go through the diffs.

Going to watch the nitro's Sunday in Toledo if everything works out. Be a nice change and maybe peak at the track.

See ya later

MC-Theres no benefit to deadshorting an old pack. IN fact-I wouldnt recommend it at all. If your going to DS a pack-make sure its brand new and already has good runtime. A Deadshort pack to me is for "big Races". I didnt DS any new packs I got for the spring and summer as I wanted to preserve the runtime AND not hassle with making sure each pack was discharged to 0 volts. When you DS you introduce a kind-of-pain in the booty maintenance routine that you must follow. I wuld just take your packs down to 0.9 on the tray, then an hour before you recharge it-put it o the tray again on race day.

If you want to wake-up cells-better to just cycle them a couple times or borrow a zapper (like the INtegy DCX3300) and give them a good zapping.

Thanks for the info.

I cycled the packs and they are okay and gave me some real good numbers os I should be okay on batts until the Halloween race.

I will generate a diagram sometime here shortly and e-mail you on the switch to kill the tc on the focus. You will like it much better!!

Hey all,

Paul is sitting 6th after 3 rounds of qualifynhg at th ROAR nats in Toledo!! In think Aaron is a very respectable 20th right now too.

Ray

I thought you had the novak trya. After a bit it did start blinking. Instructions on box a little vague.

Thanks guys - hope that it wakes the packs up and helps me.

Most likely going to put the gt-7 into the tc3 and set the lrp aside, also gonna go thru the car to free some things up and go through the diffs.

Going to watch the nitro's Sunday in Toledo if everything works out. Be a nice change and maybe peak at the track.

See ya laterHey Taz! do you think the GT7 will be better than the LRP? Just wondering why your switching?

The throttle and overall response of the gt-7 is more preferable. Smoother by far in my opinion from running the 2 and I have a gt-7 sitting here so I am switchin.

I will use the lrp in my offroad truck.

Did they run qualifying today??

Hey Guys,

For anyone interested the TEAM ASSOCIATED TC4 Team kit will be $209.95 plus tax. The ETA is 9/15. If you interested let me know.

Thanks,
Jim

I talked with Paul this evening and he is sitting 7th after qualifying so he made the show. He is sitting behind a few no names like Baker, Blackstock, Hara, Swauger......pretty darn good! He runs a 1 hour main tomorrow afternoon. Kelly is in the D or E I think and Aaron is in the C.

The throttle and overall response of the gt-7 is more preferable. Smoother by far in my opinion from running the 2 and I have a gt-7 sitting here so I am switchin.

I will use the lrp in my offroad truck.

Did they run qualifying today?? Which LRP do you have? I have not noticed a diff between my LRP Comp and the gt7

I tried the quantum 2 and the gt7 in my 1/12 car... the quantum 2 had more up front speed and punch, but tailed at the end of the run, the gt7 had less up front speed, less punch, but more top spedd and longer run time..I put the quantum to in my 1/10 oval car and went a lap faster since I don't have to worry about run time (4 minute race).
-Wayne

I have the first version not the second.

Going to Toledo to see our guys race!!!!

Hope to be fun!!!

Can someone point me to an article on the web that offers good advice on how to properly care for GP3300 cells?

I'm not looking to go nuts with battery care, I just want to learn a simple but effective method to get a good anount of life, puch, and runtime out of my batteries.

http://www.promatchracing.com/batteryins.htm

http://www.surgebatterymatching.com/FAQs.htm

Hey guys and gals,

If anyone needs some batteries I just received an order from Hurricane Motorsports. The numbers range from 1.65-1.76. runtimes are all 420 plus. prices range from $42.00 to $58.00. E-mail me if you are interested and I can give you a little more detailed info.

Thanks,
Jim

These are the same Batteries Seaball has been running with huge success.

Hey guys and gals,

If anyone needs some batteries I just received an order from Hurricane Motorsports. The numbers range from 1.65-1.76. runtimes are all 420 plus. prices range from $42.00 to $58.00. E-mail me if you are interested and I can give you a little more detailed info.

Thanks,
Jim

These are the same Batteries Seaball has been running with huge success.

Jimmy,

R U planning on getting in any personal transponders? I could use one.

Thanks,

Adam

I will have them around the time of the Halloween race.


Thanks,
Jim

Anyone racing at the track have a nice lathe with a diamond bit they like to sell?

Looking to get one asap and watching a few on e-bya, but thought I might ask in case somone has a nice one they want to sell.

E-mail directly if you might have one.

Thanks

mike

was wondering if you were going to have another swap meet?? i know the last one was no so well but i had thought i heard you say you might try again??

matt

Matt,

Unfortunatly we are not going to have another one. I just don't have the time.

Sorry,
Jim

Can someone point me to an article on the web that offers good advice on how to properly care for GP3300 cells?

I'm not looking to go nuts with battery care, I just want to learn a simple but effective method to get a good anount of life, puch, and runtime out of my batteries.
Adam,

You might want to check out this month's issue of R/C Car Action. There is a pretty good article in there about NIMH battery care and maintenance.

Hey all-who went to the ROAR Nats Sunday to watch our local boys compete? Any good stories?

I couldnt go as I was at Kennywood all day.

Ray

Hey, the ROAR Nats were awesome. Great racing all day.

One of the highlights was watching Bobby Flack bump up from the I main all the way to the B main. He had over 2 hrs of racing on that car Sunday. Insane!

Another highlight, was watching Mr. Paul Ciccarello run with all the top pros. It was an hour long main. Had he not had radio/receiver failure, he would likely have come in third place, as he had two or three laps on Tosolini (who came in third) at the half way point. Paul ran great just to get into the show, and may have been running even better in the main. Now on to the Halloween Classic!

Hara was the epitome of consistent, and did not have that fastest car out. Blackstock, Cyrul, and Swauger had rockets, but were plagued with bad pit stops, and equipment failures.

Aaron ran in the C with a less than stellar car, and managed to get the most out of it for a 4th place finish. He may have been able to bump, if he wasn't turned around twice in the first two laps. A good race nonetheless.

It was a good time, but I was ready to come in from the heat when it was all done.

Good stuff Chris-thanks!!

WOW! Chris is like our own local journalist reporting from the pits. After reading that, I feel like I was there.:lol:

Jimmy-I just read Tower has NOvak GTX in stock-do you have two for me coming in? If not-any idea how long? I need to sell a couple of my GT7's to make room for the GTX's, but cannot sell them till mine are on the way- if you know what I mean. :)

Ray

Ray,

GTX's are any day now to ship from IL. I have 4 of them coming.

Jim

Hey Guys,


The LRP Pulsar 2 Competition chargers are shipping. Does anyone want on. $159.95.

Thanks,
Jim

I got my Champs entry form last night. I see Tony Williams is Race Director or some such title. Can anyone get in contact with him to come on here or RCTech to answer people questions? The RC world is a lot smaller now due to the internet and almost all the other major races have a forum to answer questions for the racers.

I know I already have a couple questions-like on weight-it says 50 oz for a sedan-but does that include the Personal Transponder? u-know-questions like that.

Ray

Where can you get the entry forms? Are they on line?

Bean's My Hero - would you be willing to loan the Indoor Champs your AMB decoder ring (box) so that we can run PT's?

Hey anyone got any good ways to get dried faskolor out of an airbrush? Went to use my air brush and my bro left it all gunked up, I have tried Lacquer thinner didnt work! any ideas HELP Tried boiling water nothing!

Tamiya-Maybe a bath in air brush cleaning solution for a couple days-then blow it out with compressed air? Thats all I can think of.

Where do I get the Indoor champs form??!?!?!?

e-mail mr. Bill at mr.bill@nls.com

Where do I get the Indoor champs form??!?!?!?

Hey anyone got any good ways to get dried faskolor out of an airbrush? Went to use my air brush and my bro left it all gunked up, I have tried Lacquer thinner didnt work! any ideas HELP Tried boiling water nothing!

Try Windex or Blue windsheild washer fluid. The Windex worked for us.