Awesome horsepower with the old trusty KCR motors!!!

Does anyone have any clues on the FUji 19t motors?
I have tried used Orions, 4383 and Triple X brushes with average luck. Best amp draw I can get is 10A max at 2A with black fan.
My older KCR D5 motors are giving 12-12.5.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks

For your D5 motors those are good amp draw numbers. I usually like my stuff to pull about 12.5 - 13.0.

For the FUJI. Try taking a gently used pair of orions and re-serrate them. Use the original springs that came on the motor from KC. Put them in the motor at 36 degrees. Put a green Finish Line fan (or similar) and break it in at 1.5 volts untill the numbers settle down (usually the pretty close to the amp draw of a D5 or higher). You can also try breaking it in at 2.5 volts and then backing it down to check the amp draw. You may need to push on the brushes a little bit with a small wrench while the motor is breaking in or spray the motor a few times.

Let me know if you need anymore help. Also ask Humpty, I know he has had success with the FUJI motors.

Thanks to KCR for all the awesome 19 turns!!!

Hope this helps,
Adam Liehr
TEAM KCR

I can try that, although I have been doing about the same.
Dont have a green fan, but can pick one up.
But using the used orions, reserrated, with silver orion springs, is giving 10A or less.
Let me cut some comms and try that this week.. ill let you know how it works.

Thanks
NH

I have tuned a lot of Kennys Fuji's for guys locally. What seems to work best for me is 4383, new ones, pos and neg, with the red orion on the pos silver on the neg.

Shim the arm centered in the mag field, and break it in at 0 degrees timing for 3-4 min @ 1.5 volts. After thats done just bump it up to 3 volts for a sec to get the motor to spin up hard and shut it off. Do all this with a fan.

Crank to 36 degrees and with my 2 blade broken CRC fan I get 13-14 amps at 1.5 volts, no drops, all day long. Kenny can back that up he's seen the numbers, I did it on his much-more motor thing.

Shiming these arms seems to help the most. I use 1 0.015" shim on the bottom of the arm and whatever it takes on the top to get out the extra slop. You still want about 0.005" end play.

Try running the motor and then checking it. The amp draw should go up or stay the same.

Make sure your running the latest batch of 4383's, the ones I got from kenny are killer good.

Dave

When you say shim it to the middle of mag field, your talking the point where it "floats" in the can correct? If I do that, this specific motore arm will sit too low, as to where the brish will be over the end of the com. Or are you saying shim it untill you have the com centered in the brush holder?
Also, why the break-in at 0 degrees? Do you remove the brush/spring to move to 36 degree?
What kind of price for the 4383 from Kenny?
Does he have a shop phone # I can call?

Thanks
NH

Thanks Dave, that is one thing I forgot. The way the stacks on the arm are centered in between the top and the bottom of the magnets, can give change the amp draw tremendusly. My brushes ride more towards the top of the comm on my fujis.

The difference in the fans is not too big. If I check my amp draw without a fan it is only 1/2 - 1 am lower than with the fan.


The KC Shop # is 661-588-2757.

Adam Liehr :dude:
Team KCR

IMO when you break any motor in it should be at 0 degrees timing. The more timing the more arcing that you get which can dry out the lube in the brushes and just detereorate (sp?) the comm. If you break in the motor at 0 you get next to no arcing and the comm looks much better, if you do it longer at the voltage it will still look much cleaner then when it was at 36 degree's.

Center the arm in the magnetic filed. If you put 1 0.015" thick shim on the bottom of the arm that should be very close. That should get the brushes riding at the very top of the comm.

We also have fresh 4383's at our shop. JPHRacing.com 707-586-3375.

Dave

Come on Adam you got to get 17 plus. I do HAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!!! The motor I built for the Ovalmasters in the main shut down my GFX. It was funny the screen was flickering. Et was almost rolling on the ground laughing so hard. I wouldn't break the things in more than 15 secs. Treat them like a mod. Never run them twice.The amp draw might be better be it's a faulse number. I alway run reseratted Orions. They just seem to be the must consistant.

Ritchie Mac
KC Racing
Silva Concepts
IRS
PRS
WindTunnel Body Works
DanKim Graphics

throw some sand in your motor, you'll hit 17 amps everytime

Awe Ritchie you know i gotta save my 20 amp motors! They are all labeled Ritchie beaters! LOL


I don't like them to pull more than 12.5 - 13. I have never built a 19turn bigger than 13 - 14.


Adam Liehr :dude:

Just wanted to let everyone know that I TQed Mod and 19t with KC HP at the memorial race at Sandhills Sat. Ran a 58 4.01.40 Ifmar in Mod.

Ritchie Mac

Hey Rob M just wanted to thank you for the KC batteries i got this weekend they had great numbers and plenty of runtime. Never fell off also help me make the A main.

Glad to help out Batman. KCR just keeps building the best in horsepower and Cells. Now if we can just keep you coming to the track again you will be in good shape

Rob M

Ran a KC Racing 7x2 loaned by Paul Schwanbeck this weekend at the Cincy warm up race, it was the most consistent and efficient mod motor I have ever ran.
KC had 4 cars in mod A including a 1,2 finish

Jason

Hey rick u have a pm! :thumbsup:

I s the web site up I try to get on it and it says needs renewal or something to that fact. Would like to try some of their stuff.

Thanks Jason H.

Here is Murdocks web site he Carries KCR Motors and Batteries.

http://members.willinet.net/bmurdock/MURDOCKRC

I have a full line up of KCR motors and batteries JH Racing. Drop us a line at MURDOCKRC@AOL.COM or call 712-428-4679 and Ill be more than happy to put in into the right stuff

Rob @ Murdock R/C-Wintunnel Racing Products

Ok Rob will do thanks going to the Birds if so Good luck.

Anybody know who carries Reedy 728 brushes e-mail randaparents@comcast.net.

Im sure Kenny at KC can hook you up with what you need! The KC shop # is - 661-588-2757

Mario

Thanks Mario I think they said they don't carry that brush but the good thing is I will have KC HP at the Nats. Will you be there?

Thanks Mario I think they said they don't carry that brush but the good thing is I will have KC HP at the Nats. Will you be there?

Sandhills? I might........? Alot of my traveling buddies are staying home so Im not sure. More than likely not. Gotta regroup for the summer. I wanna head North to some tracks up there. Outside tracks. Corey keeps telling me that the Triclone is awesome and I want to check it out. So we will see?? Plus Danny B race in Iowa looks to be a good one! I would like to give the flat one more shot.

You coming to the Arcor race at Salty ville (classic)

You can ride with me to Iowa Mario.

I would love to will see what happens speaking of summer we have a race on June 24th in Delaware The Custom Works race you should get some people together and come on done to it. Here is my e-mail randaparents@comcast.net. :thumbsup:

Seaford? That is a race I would love to check off on my list of races to attend. Couple friends of mine I race with here have gone to that and said they loved it! Maybe I will see you guys this year!

Seaford is awesome Mario. Jim and I are going back this year.
Chris

Bring your mod stuff this year trying to get 10 to 15 to pre enter so we can run mod could be a cash payout. :thumbsup:

Mario I live in Seaford about 2 min from the track.

Foam or Caps? I will talk to Ricky and see if he wants to go this year!

Foams Purple And Pinks. Hope Tou Can Make I Started A Thread On The Events Side I Am Lobbying For Mod If We Can Get 10 To 15 Pre-entered We Are Going To Run The Class. The Track Is 355',315' Runline Mod Is Awsome There.

I now carry all KCR products, Ken and Dawn are great to work with............
Great products and great support, multiple track, state, regional and national champioships, so try their products and find out for yourself..........