ryan i still have your 66 crystal, never gave it to you, sryoooh, so you're one for not returning stuff.... great... i know not to loan you anything... ROFL.. i'm just kidding... :p

-Tone

what the hell is the matter with all of you, worship me, that is completly obsene

ok now ur just gay, worship me man u r just so gay

hey does anyone no if they do the ifmar starts for rustler spec,
i finally got my electric rustler running and i cant wait to race in rustler spec in 2 weeks all i need a 1500 batteries

Wayne can chime in here with the official word, but I believe all the electric oval classes are heads up, not IFMAR, starts.

and i am done with these games, i go to race not to fight

THEN STOP ALL THE BS, YOUR GUYS BICKERING IS REALLY PISSING ME OFF.

AND YOU DO NOT WANT ME IN THIS ARGUMENT, SO LEAVE ME OUT.

KNOCK OFF THE BS, AND LET US GET BACK TO CIVIL CONVERSATIONS.

Nick

i'm having the issue where if i get to 3/4 a tank left, the pressure from the pipe line is coming in SOOOO STRONG that it creates a bajillion airbubbles and the car gets hardly any fuel and stalls out... i am going to try putting o-rings on the tank feet to cushon the tank from jostling... but that seems to be my flame-out issue... any thoughts???

-Tone
Tone - I think I would start with the basics first, and make sure I had a new glow plug and that the mixture is right. Don't run too lean. You can richen it up until the motor doesn't have enough power to wind up and shift into second, and then start leaning slowly 1/16th turn at a time until it will shift, and then leave it there. Make sure the motor is warmed up before you start tuning, and run it for a lap or two before you make a second adjustment. All this also assumes you have a motor in good mechanical condition, with good compression, no air leaks, no cracks in the fuel tanks or lines. The TRX 2.5 have numerous places they are prone to airleak (carb neck, backplate, carb bodies develop cracks).

The stock Traxxas tank is not great for racing as it will cause the engine to run leaner near the bottom of the tank, but I understand they are talking more about the bottom 1/4 of a tank, not at the 3/4 mark. Always start with a full tank when racing, and you shouldn't use more than a 1/2 tank with our short heats. Just be careful not to run the tank to the bottom if you're practicing or bashing - stop and refuel at 1/2 tank. I wouldn't worry about the rubber mounting on the tank - almost every Maxx I've seen, including the pics of Slayden's factory Maxx, use the solid mount. As I said, your problem is more likely somewhere in the basics. You could probably kill some of the pressure coming into the tank from the pipe by lengthening the pressure line - however, if you lengthen it, I don't think you'd ever want to go more than 12".

Wayne can chime in here with the official word, but I believe all the electric oval classes are heads up, not IFMAR, starts.
All electric classes on the oval are heads up, regular starts.

Nick

The stock Traxxas tank is not great for racing as it will cause the engine to run leaner near the bottom of the tank, but I understand they are talking more about the bottom 1/4 of a tank, not at the 3/4 mark. Always start with a full tank when racing, and you shouldn't use more than a 1/2 tank with our short heats. Just be careful not to run the tank to the bottom if you're practicing or bashing - stop and refuel at 1/2 tank. I wouldn't worry about the rubber mounting on the tank - almost every Maxx I've seen, including the pics of Slayden's factory Maxx, use the solid mount. As I said, your problem is more likely somewhere in the basics. You could probably kill some of the pressure coming into the tank from the pipe by lengthening the pressure line - however, if you lengthen it, I don't think you'd ever want to go more than 12".

Sam, from Zeppelin gave me some good advice on the fuel tanks. Remove the pressure Nozzle from the fuel tank and run a piece of fuel tubing from the nozzle, almost to the bottom of the tank. Then you will not have to worry about the running leaner or richer depending on the level of your fuel.

Nick

Sam, from Zeppelin gave me some good advice on the fuel tanks. Remove the pressure Nozzle from the fuel tank and run a piece of fuel tubing from the nozzle, almost to the bottom of the tank. Then you will not have to worry about the running leaner or richer depending on the level of your fuel.

Nick
Hmmm. I think you might fix one problem and cause another. Our Losi NTs have just that kind of arrangement, ie the pressure line is at the bottom of the tank. The pressure does stay consistent, however, when you shut the motor off, it tends to siphon fuel from the tank back into the pipe. I mean, a LOT of fuel. Everytime we would run, we would end up trying to pour huge amounts of fuel out of the pipes thru the stinger. We didn't always get it all out, and then it would suck back into the motor when you start next time and then hydro lock. Then you're scrambling to pull the glow plugs on two trucks at once while the sponsored 12 year old driver is going "faster, Dad, faster". The new NT tanks have the pressure fitting in the caps, as do most new nitro vehicles. This past week I capped the old pressure outlets, and added fittings to the Losi caps, and they ran flawlessly on both trucks thru all three heats Sunday. Didn't flood once, not a drop of fuel in the pipes, and the trucks ran just as fast. Again, we don't even use a 1/2 tank in 4 minutes, so I don't know if we'd have the bottom of the tank leanout with this arrangement. I guess we'll see if we ever go to Barnstormers with 10 minute mains.

I've been very happy so far with the Ofna tanks we are using this season on the Maxxes. Slayden recommends the 88cc Nitro Rustler tank as being a good replacement for the stock TMaxx tank for racing, and with our short heats you'd have no trouble making time.

ok now ur just gay, worship me man u r just so gay

Umm craig shut up, i dont even think you understand what you are trying to say

hallster, if you can, give me a call tonight, on the later side, 8-9, ive got a project to do, i need to know whats happening with my carrier

Gary, I did the same thing with my Associated stock tank. Sealed off the pressure fitting and added a new fitting into the top of the tank. I did it five years ago and the engine still runs great right down till it comepletly runs dry. The engine is seven years old and has never had to be rebuilt. Tone, if you need help tuning that Maxx of yours come on over real early and we'll help you out. The only thing is it has to be before I start putting stuff in the computer. Try what Gary said which you can do at home and if no luck we can help you at the next race. Good luck. Let us know how you made out.Mike C., you are running great. Just keep on doing what you are doing and you will have no trouble. Don't let all the talk distract you. Just run as if you are the only car on the track. Rob Gross did an awesome job in the B main and was happy as can be after the race. See Ya!!!!! WAYNE

I've been very happy so far with the Ofna tanks we are using this season on the Maxxes. Slayden recommends the 88cc Nitro Rustler tank as being a good replacement for the stock TMaxx tank for racing, and with our short heats you'd have no trouble making time.
I'm not too concerned with it, although I race it, my tmaxx is still a basher (now a very fast basher :D ). I think I'll stick with my stock tank, when truck performance begins to hinder my racing, maybe I'll consider it.

Nick

hey does anyone no if they do the ifmar starts for rustler spec,
i finally got my electric rustler running and i cant wait to race in rustler spec in 2 weeks all i need a 1500 batteriesi got 1500 batts if you need to borrow them.....

-Tone

Tone - I think I would start with the basics first, and make sure I had a new glow plug and that the mixture is right. Don't run too lean. You can richen it up until the motor doesn't have enough power to wind up and shift into second, and then start leaning slowly 1/16th turn at a time until it will shift, and then leave it there. Make sure the motor is warmed up before you start tuning, and run it for a lap or two before you make a second adjustment. All this also assumes you have a motor in good mechanical condition, with good compression, no air leaks, no cracks in the fuel tanks or lines. The TRX 2.5 have numerous places they are prone to airleak (carb neck, backplate, carb bodies develop cracks).

The stock Traxxas tank is not great for racing as it will cause the engine to run leaner near the bottom of the tank, but I understand they are talking more about the bottom 1/4 of a tank, not at the 3/4 mark. Always start with a full tank when racing, and you shouldn't use more than a 1/2 tank with our short heats. Just be careful not to run the tank to the bottom if you're practicing or bashing - stop and refuel at 1/2 tank. I wouldn't worry about the rubber mounting on the tank - almost every Maxx I've seen, including the pics of Slayden's factory Maxx, use the solid mount. As I said, your problem is more likely somewhere in the basics. You could probably kill some of the pressure coming into the tank from the pipe by lengthening the pressure line - however, if you lengthen it, I don't think you'd ever want to go more than 12".
interestin thoughts.... i've only got 2 race weekends plus break-in onj the trx 2.5 engine... i will try it all... i have it set about 4 1/2T on the high speed needle... i will check the carb neck and backplate.... before the a-main, i put in a new glow plug... it has a really REALLY strong backpressure.. i WILL try lenghtening that line.. i hope that nothing else broke when i had my little "accident" with it.. i've replaced almost everything that i notived was broken.... grrrrrr.. i'mma gonna have to take a look.... thanks Gary, i appreciate your help!

-Tone

Sam, from Zeppelin gave me some good advice on the fuel tanks. Remove the pressure Nozzle from the fuel tank and run a piece of fuel tubing from the nozzle, almost to the bottom of the tank. Then you will not have to worry about the running leaner or richer depending on the level of your fuel.

Nick
Really? thats even more interesting... how do you seal it at the entry point? i might try a different brand tank as well...

-Tone

Gary, I did the same thing with my Associated stock tank. Sealed off the pressure fitting and added a new fitting into the top of the tank. I did it five years ago and the engine still runs great right down till it comepletly runs dry. The engine is seven years old and has never had to be rebuilt. Tone, if you need help tuning that Maxx of yours come on over real early and we'll help you out. The only thing is it has to be before I start putting stuff in the computer. Try what Gary said which you can do at home and if no luck we can help you at the next race. Good luck. Let us know how you made out.Mike C., you are running great. Just keep on doing what you are doing and you will have no trouble. Don't let all the talk distract you. Just run as if you are the only car on the track. Rob Gross did an awesome job in the B main and was happy as can be after the race. See Ya!!!!! WAYNE
Thanks Wayne.... will do... i bet there is a crack somewhere (other than my large posterior).. i'll check the fuel line AGAIN and run some new stuff... i might have to visit Lou at Zeppelin for that... i appreciate all the help....

-Tone

Thanks Wayne.... will do... i bet there is a crack somewhere (other than my large posterior).. i'll check the fuel line AGAIN and run some new stuff... i might have to visit Lou at Zeppelin for that... i appreciate all the help....

-Tone
I hope you only have 1 crack....

Nick

I hope you only have 1 crack....

NickRofl... goofball.. i only have one posterior crack.... and hopefully NONE on my tmaxx....

-Tone

he he! Nicks a goofball! :roll:

he he! Nicks a goofball! :roll:
yah, he's your goofball...
-TOne

yah, he's your goofball...
-TOne
YES HE IS! :)

Tone, don't do more than one thing and run it for a while after you try something. If you do more than one change at a time you might be making things worse. Remember to run for a while after each change because it takes a while for the motor to adjust to the change you made. I am speaking from experience.

i got 1500 batts if you need to borrow them.....

-Tone

thank u tone

Umm craig shut up, i dont even think you understand what you are trying to say

yes i do

EROK, i think i found the problem with the 19 dying on me. The fricken comm was wiped out, same with the 15x2. Think im geared way too tall, gonna drop pinion to 17, maybe 16 if i can get it in there.

Nicwald, or Emily, does Zepp's have B4/T4 spur gears, i need an 84 or 87. If ya guys can check i'd luv you forever...LOL:tongue: .

EROK what gearing you runnin?? I was runnin 20/81 think that is way to high, looking to run 17/84 or 16/81 and see what happens.

Gonna hit the track probably Saturday, just to drop some laps, anyone interested???

FREAk

i'll be there saturday if i get a ride. truck will not bne ready cuz i got no esc for it. i geared that chameleon 81/19 and it ran warm. i dont know what happened to it.

mike on that 410m5 esc does it shut off if it gets too hot? Cuz i had a 17x2 in it and it would get real hot then shut off for a minute then i would be able to finish the race

EROK, i think i found the problem with the 19 dying on me. The fricken comm was wiped out, same with the 15x2. Think im geared way too tall, gonna drop pinion to 17, maybe 16 if i can get it in there.

Nicwald, or Emily, does Zepp's have B4/T4 spur gears, i need an 84 or 87. If ya guys can check i'd luv you forever...LOL:tongue: .

EROK what gearing you runnin?? I was runnin 20/81 think that is way to high, looking to run 17/84 or 16/81 and see what happens.

Gonna hit the track probably Saturday, just to drop some laps, anyone interested???

FREAk
I can check tomorrow when I get to work.

EROK, i think i found the problem with the 19 dying on me. The fricken comm was wiped out, same with the 15x2. Think im geared way too tall, gonna drop pinion to 17, maybe 16 if i can get it in there.

Nicwald, or Emily, does Zepp's have B4/T4 spur gears, i need an 84 or 87. If ya guys can check i'd luv you forever...LOL:tongue: .

EROK what gearing you runnin?? I was runnin 20/81 think that is way to high, looking to run 17/84 or 16/81 and see what happens.

Gonna hit the track probably Saturday, just to drop some laps, anyone interested???

FREAk

I might, i have to see whats shaken around here, i have to get the coms cut on my d6, after roasting it at the race,

Mike sry i wasnt up when you called, i got home at 5 and tried to catch up on some lost sleep, just if you dont mind , bid on it and tell me the final cost, i will get back to you when i am not working

Gonna hit the track probably Saturday, just to drop some laps, anyone interested???

FREAk[/QUOTE]
if i can get a ride i will be there

ricky, ya still interested in sellin the peak vantage can and endbell with the orion chrome 15x2 arm ?

Tone, don't do more than one thing and run it for a while after you try something. If you do more than one change at a time you might be making things worse. Remember to run for a while after each change because it takes a while for the motor to adjust to the change you made. I am speaking from experience.Mmmmmm.... maybe thats the problem all along..... i put the new head, pipe, manifold, and air filter on all at once, and adjusted the high speed needle to like 4 3/4 turns to compensatefor the highrt airflow of the filter and pipe... plus, i got that whacked out chassis and a new engine mount to boot (i sheared the ear off one side of the stock one when i had my accident). maybe i cracked more than i thought when i smashed that curb....
i'll try the fuel line 1st.... then run it... i got fuel filters on the thing too... mebbe i installed one backwards? hmm.... mebbe one is clogged.... grrr... look at what i am doing to myself...

thanks for all the help Guys.. thanks wayne, i'm sure i'll bring it by and thanks for all the suggestions. Thanks Gary, i appreciate all the input as well.. i'm making a list.... and Nick....Nick...thanks too. you've always got something to add, that little tid-bit...

-Tone

EROK, i think i found the problem with the 19 dying on me. The fricken comm was wiped out, same with the 15x2. Think im geared way too tall, gonna drop pinion to 17, maybe 16 if i can get it in there.

Nicwald, or Emily, does Zepp's have B4/T4 spur gears, i need an 84 or 87. If ya guys can check i'd luv you forever...LOL:tongue: .

EROK what gearing you runnin?? I was runnin 20/81 think that is way to high, looking to run 17/84 or 16/81 and see what happens.

Gonna hit the track probably Saturday, just to drop some laps, anyone interested???

FREAk
i'm there.... what time???
i have an 87T gear 4 u i believe....

-Tone

oh and by the way.. this is the glow plug i am using
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEXW7&P=ML
this is the pipe
http://www.rdlogics.com/store/P_176.htm
and this is the airfilter
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDNV3&P=ML
and this is the HEAD
http://www.novarcproducts.com/racepro.html

hmmmmmm....

-Tone

i might go to the track but i have work but if i do go i will practice with my rustler..... what time is eryone going

man i dont no if i can race truck offroad next race my chassis might not be here by then i am so pissed so now i can just race my rustler

man i hate those ASSociated screws they just had to snap

Hallster should i get this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7903114322&category=43974&sspagename=WDVW

man i hate those ASSociated screws they just had to snap[/QUOTE]
thats why everyone has told you not to use them ya dingbat !!!

Hallster should i get this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7903114322&category=43974&sspagename=WDVW


Dunno Mike, we have to take that apart and see whats up with it. Maybe the nut holding it together is just coming loosE??? Or it needs a bearing. Was gonna take it apart when i was there but we need an axle in it to stand it straight up....


FREAk

P.S. Maybe around 3-4pm on saturday, or sooner, post whats good for you guys...

FREAk

P.S. Maybe around 3-4pm on saturday, or sooner, post whats good for you guys...
lemme check with Noel... it sounds good to me tho... you'll be able to drive the t4 i think too, if you so choose..

-Tone

lemme check with Noel... it sounds good to me tho... you'll be able to drive the t4 i think too, if you so choose..

-Tone
tone, could ya give me a ride? i will pay for half the gas

tone, could ya give me a ride? i will pay for half the gas derrr... you're such a goof... yah, i'll see if i can give you a ride too... dont worry about the gas for the car...

-Tone

sounds good maybe 2?

EROK, i think i found the problem with the 19 dying on me. The fricken comm was wiped out, same with the 15x2. Think im geared way too tall, gonna drop pinion to 17, maybe 16 if i can get it in there.

Nicwald, or Emily, does Zepp's have B4/T4 spur gears, i need an 84 or 87. If ya guys can check i'd luv you forever...LOL:tongue: .

EROK what gearing you runnin?? I was runnin 20/81 think that is way to high, looking to run 17/84 or 16/81 and see what happens.

Gonna hit the track probably Saturday, just to drop some laps, anyone interested???

FREAk
sorry no we dont have them in stock. we can order them if you want.

Mike on ur atv site some guy is selling his warrior nj fox or somethign was his name is that warrior nice looking and is it well taken care of.

sorry no we dont have them in stock. we can order them if you want.
someone has to tell lou to get some damn b4 /t4 parts

Tone, Chris and I will probably be at the track on sat. to break in his new motor. Not sure what time. Most likely early afternoon but not sure. We can mess with your Maxx then. That way you will be ready for the next race. Let me Know, WAYNE

Tone, Chris and I will probably be at the track on sat. to break in his new motor. Not sure what time. Most likely early afternoon but not sure. We can mess with your Maxx then. That way you will be ready for the next race. Let me Know, WAYNE
2AM, are you on another job, Wayne?

Nick