Guver - You replaced the 20 turn stinger? Don't be suprised if it's much faster with a 27 turn stocker!

Ron - Good info, & Hello back at ya.

Well, I went and ordered the PRP last night. I will certainly report how it goes when I get it together. One thing that can be said for the Peguin- other than the better price is that it comes with so much more of the stuff one needs to get it together. Not only will I need the Pede tranny bits but I will have to make 8 links as well. Not that that is an issue for me. Been there, done that.

Started thinking about keeping that Rusty as an extra basher but came to my senses when I saw the XXXT that is awaiting diff bits. No way the Rusty will be half as nice as the XXXT. Of course I already know that the XXXT can't take a curb smack like a Traxxas truck can! I will deal with that when it happens I guess.

I have decided to put PowerPoles on my 5800. Right now I have the three wires running through the shock tower of the XXXT but that meant unsoldering them which was a total desaster. I want to be able to swap it between trucks but not if it means unsoldeirng every time.

The stock stinger looks like it has retarted timing? someone else verify if you can.

It is about 10 degrees after. (-10 degrees) It may make a nice reverse rotation motor....maybe that's why I've heard they run hot. Mine also ran hot on 6 cells and stock gearing. I replaced a photon with the 27 turn and went back to stock gearing w/ 8 cells.

aww amn chris now i am jealous!! ;) the kit looks just awsome, and i have seen tones of pics of it proforming well too. at rcmt thier are a few sweet projects that use tlt axles and jug frames and gearboxes and the hilux/mountianer frame.

you will have to share pics of the build up. and do me one favor just don't run a bronco body on it! everyone seems to run that body on the prp chassis...

:)

Guv, The stinger does seem weird but the armature is advanced 10 degrees to offest the can retardation. (duh.:p) Why they do this is beyond me. Ifyou were to put a Stinger arm into a different can, what seems zero timing would actually be 10 degree advanced.

I will NOT run a jeep lid. I promise yuou. I am not sure just what I will run though. I do have an unpainted Silverado for a Pede which might just need a home.

I will take tons of pix! I think I am happy to get it as a kit instead of pre-built so I can see how it all goes together. It seems pretty complex for a chassis but it should be fun.

*sigh*... last week I buested by front pivot block. I had a spare so I just dropped it in. What I didn't have what the right length king pins. I slapped in some shorter ones that came with the GPM aluminum front arms that I am not using.

Went to the shop last night to pick-up a tie bar so I wouldn't kill another pivot block. had a nice chat with the kid there and wanted to show off the Pede to him. As I was heading back there today to get the right size king pins (having measured...) I decided to drop in the brushless! Hooked it up with PP connectors so it is easy to pull. Geared it low enough that I had to go back in and put on the wheelie bar! :lol: Could not keep the front end down but it was FAST! Slapped the curb once but it seemed fine.

Got to the shop to show it off (and remeasure for the pin as I forgot my list :rolleyes: ) Turned over the truck and found I had blown out ANOTHER pivot block. totally destroying the pin for the other arms. So I ended up buying another pivot block and TWO sets of pins. One will be too long but nothing a couple washers wont cure. Obviously I didn't get to show it off in motion.

The good thing though was that I found a set of Maxx turn buckles- titanium, of course, that will fit the wide pede perfectly! I have been running seriously beefed up steering links as I couldn't afford "real" ones. Well, these were half price!

Now, I will have all the aluminum on the truck, the brushless motor, the wheelie bar, Ti turnbuckles up front (all of them!), a tiebar to save the pivot block. I am psyched!

Oh, I also so the shop guy driving his Mini-Quake. That is actually a real nice truck. Pretty darn quick too, in stock form. He is going brushless of course. I worry about how tiny the plastic bits are though. Seemed likely to be pretty darn fragile!

I got it thanks. That is kinda strange.

Hi Guys,

Back home from the holiday's and looking at a camperless camp. Hope you all had a great turkey day.

Today was the first time in quite awhile that I though of getting the pede out and putting it through its paces. The track has recived some work and should be ready to test soon.

Chris, or anyone, have you got a link to purchase alum idler gears? For both the pede and EVST. I would like to make that upgrade on both vehicles the Evader needs it now and the pede soon.

Another question??? After I get the Evader running right I want to put it in the box so to speak. I want to clean it up, lube it, and set it up for long term storage. What should I be concerned about and what should I address?

Hey Bill,

Welcome back! Hope you had a good trip up north.

Why do you want to put the Evader to sleep for a while? Whatever the reason, there realy isn't much to do about that. It is not like a car that needs certain oil put in it for long term storage. Cleaning it and setting it down in the box should be fine. With my Clods, I make sure I don't leave weight on the tires as they get flat spots due to the size and weight of the truck and the softness of the tires but I dont know if you need that for a stadium truck.

Bill for long term storage you should put iton a stand or block or remove the shocks. weight on the springs will weaken them a little.

Oh, and for the Pede, here is the idler gear at Tower (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJJ94&P=Z) .

Thanks guys for the info.

My goal is to open the box in the future, charge the batts, and run it. The Evader just does not get used these days and having it just sit there collecting dust and rusting makes no sence. So I was going to clean it up, apply a light film of oil on all the metal parts, support the chassis so the suppension is not under load (thanks for the idea Tom I think I will take it one step further and remove the shock springs and also change their oil), and put all the parts into a tight dust/moisture proof container.

Would you guys leave the batts charged? Of course I will leave them unpluged and out of there compartments.

I'm still concerned about the motor (internal) rusting. Had that happen before and would like to avoid it this time. Any ideas on preventing this and still not needing to clean it when I want to run again?

We could be talking years before it runs again and would like to keep it in good shape.

Thanks for the link Chris. Would you add the nylon top gear to the order?

Why not pull the motor and have it as a spare for the Pede? You never know when you will need a difffernet motor. You sure don't have your friendly neighborhood lathe dude by often enough! :D

I would not worry about the nylon top gear. I have had no problem to speak of with the aluminum idler and steel top gear combo. Yes, it is noisier but I haven't seen any electrical problems as a result.

Got the Pede all back together. turns out I had lost one of the e-clips on each of the hub carriers so both of those king pins were all bent as well. I was able to straighten those enough to reuse! So, it is all back together with it's new goodies. Can't wait for the chance to run it and see if it makes any difference when I smash it isn't a curb! :eek:

Bill, If you spray out the motor & clean it up before you put it in the dust/moisture proof box there shouldn't be a problem. If you really want to be sure you could squirt a little WD-40 in it, it won't hurt the motor any. But if you do talk "years" of storage the motor may not have the performance it does now when you "unmothball" it. That is only because over time the magnets will lose some of their "oompf", You may or may not notice anything.

As for Batteries, Are they NiCd or NiMh? they both need to be stored differently. NiCds need to be stored completely dead, dead shorted even. NiMhs should be stored with 3/4 to full charge. Either way they will need a couple cycles to bring them back to life when brought back into use.

I still don't have an aluminum Idler in my pedes tranny. Stock one seems fine. (of course I probably just jinxed myself!)

Uh oh, Chris is within 100 posts.... I better get busy!

I had to give up trying to keep up with him. He is the Mad Poster.

Great info guys. You both make good points. If I remove the comm will the magnets still lose some juice? I want to store the motor Chris because it is in good shape and I hope will stay in in good shape for the future runs.

The batts NiMh. So a full charge is it or I just will not store them.

My pede diff sounds fine but wih the pede becoming my primary vehicle I hope it will need replacement soon.

Removing the Armature won't help, the Magnet "decay" is just a matter of Nature. If you found a brand new, never run motor from 1994 and ran it it would run good, but not as good as it would have back in 1994 when it was fresh.

I can tell the difference in motors I have had stored for a couple years and the new(er) motors I have. More punch in the newer ones.

Thanks Tom. I think I'll give the motor a good cleaning, light coating of oil, and release the brush springs and call it good to go.

I've read about tire treatments that are said to protect and preserve the rubber. Have you found these products worth while? If I remember correctly after a good washing and drying you rub this stuff on the rubber and put the tires in zip lock plastic bags. I don't plan on removing the rims.

I clean my tires with simple green, it does condition the rubber some, I would just give them a good cleaning with that and store them away in the box with the truck. As long as you're using a moisture proof box I don't see a problem at all, your temps don't vary enough to cause condensation inside the box do they?

HA! They don't even know what condensation IS on Catalina. Well, in the walk in freezer they do... Or on the outside of their pina colada glasses...;)

just a fyi plastic will let moisture proof packaging. that is why military MREs are still done in foil.
that is something to think about if you use a plastic box. but you could always put some moth balls in in it too.

Good points guys, except Chris's of course. :rolleyes:

"We are so dry here" that even though it's raining at the moment the humidity is only 94%! I'm not kidding I just check my weather site.

I'm going to use a clear plastic box with a tight lid but I hope that the complete cleaning and drying with a light oiling will stop any damage from occuring while it waits for its rebirth. Should last as long as an MRE, might even taste better.

Oh! Since you dind't like my last point, I will try to be SERIOUS. I don't remember if you swapped to kingpins from the stock securing screws for the a-arms and hub carriers but it would pay to oil them as well as they can carry moisture for a long time and rust. Those will directly effect the performance of both steering and suspension. I think the stock screws are pretty well chromed and shouldn't be a problem.

Sorry to hear about your rain Bill! :D Keeps the dust down or is that only there on our behalf during the peak of summer? 36 degrees and rain right here, right now. Should have washed the snow away... My Pede is ready to go but... Poor Jess is dying for his XXX4 parts. Stormer sent them over a week ago and they haven't showed yet. For that matter, I want my XXXT up again so I can see what the 5800 will REALLY do.

Should last as long as an MRE, might even taste better.
I guess that would depend on if you truely did get ALL the buffalo dung off of it.....

So, 4 days with nothing to say.... huh. My 'Pede is still broken.

It was the buffalo remark. It left us all speechless.

My Pede is fine. It is the weather that sucks.

i still have no suspension pins or tranny in my truck!

still debating if i want to selll it for parts and try to start over with a new one.....

never had a new one. always rebuilt someones elses leftover bash beast.

hope everyone had a good weekend

I usually buy a new or used and keep for parts.........

OK, not a lot of time but I thought I would post a couple teasers. More details later.

That looks pretty neat, you're right about that chassis being wide, WOW! How much clearance do you have at the center of the chassis as it sits? More than stock, but still looks low. I think the old chevy body would look beter about 2.5mm back further on the chassis.

Those are my comments. :thumbsup: Keep it coming!

I haven't really measured it (got the wheels on late last night..) but the bottom links go up from the axles to the bottom of the chassis so it is over half the height of an M2K tire. Call it 2". WAY more than stock!!!!

The old Chevy wont work on the chassis. The posts fit inside the lid but they would come out the fenders! I have an El Camino touring car lid that I will try first. That will take some serious carving to give me the clearance I want. It comes with tiny tire openings.

I was bummed to see that I made the lower links a bit short so the servos are tilted out a bit. Not a big effort to remake them but I will see how it runs before I bother.

Looks like you could easily fabricate something to move the body posts to the inner rails or even inbetween with posts that attach with a screw from the bottom (Front touring car mounts). Just run a thin sheet of aluminum across the chassis rails.

Is there a Pede manual on line somewhere?
I just want to rebuild the stock shocks.
Hopefully they wont leak.
Have no idea what those black rubber disc's are that are in the shocks.
I just opened them and dumped out the oil.
Didnt really pay attention to how they came apart.

Even a brief how to would be great.
Thanks.

The black rubber thingies I used to take up air space in the shock.

The easy way: Depending on how ugly the oil was when you poured it out, I usually just flush out as much oil as I can and then refill. Unless you know what weight oil you have in your shocks, you are better off rebuilding all four at once to make sure that the truck is balanced. One shock with extra heavy oil will not behave! Once you pour out oil adding oil will trap air bubbles. You want to fill the shock within 2mm of the top and slowly and carefully move the shaft up and down while twisiting it, freeing the bubbles. The heavier the oil, the longer it will take to get to the top. Air is bad. Once the bubbles are gone, you may want to add some more oil. Again, to about 2mm from the top. Screw the top cap back on tightly with tha trubber bladder in place. The shock should compress smoothly (speed will vary with oil weight). Once it is in you might see some minor push back of the shaft but it should be small.

If the shock shaft seems bent or badly scared (causing it to jam when you move it by hand) then you pretty much have to go all the way into the shock.

The complete way, technique #1: There is the Traxxas way, and there is my way. My way works best for me...After removing the top cap and pouring out the oil, you will want to grab the very bottom of the shaft- right near the ball end with a pair of dikes (the very very bottom of the shaft never goes into the shock itself so it can take a bit of damage), or grab onto the shaft itself with a carefully padded pair of needlenose plies. You want to turn off the ball end so you can pull the shaft out the top of the shock. The seal of the shock is done with an o-ring at the bottom.Loosen the bottom cap so the o-ring (s) is not compressed, you can then push the shock shaft up and out of the shock body without hurting that o-ring. Pull the ring and check for tears, especially if the shock was leaking (Traxxas shocks will always leak some). With the shaft out, clean out the shock body with a paper towel and flush with shock oil. Reinstall the o-ring and the bottom cap loosely. Carefully slide the shaft (after inspecting it for bends and gouges) back through the o-ring. Now retighten the ballend onto the shaft carefully. Refill as aabove.

technique #2- the Traxxas way: To avoid any risk of damaging the o-ring at the bottom, they don't want the threads at the bottom of the shaft to go past the ring. The build instructions have you bring the shaft up through the o-ring and then you install 2 e-clips to grab the piston. Getting either of them on sucks. Getting them off isn't easier. Try not to lose them as you pry them off with the tool of your choice (I use a very small flat head screwdriver). Once they are off, remove the shaft (with ballend still on it, clean and inspect it and the o-ring and then reverse the process.

Most of the time when I am just bashing, I just clean and refill. If I were racing, I would go the whole route.

Sorry for the length. it isn't that hard. Just a bit messy. Assume oil will get on stuff so have an old towel to work on.

Sounds good Chris, the only difference in what I do is I usually flush out the shock with some electric motor cleaner before re-filling. And I use paper towel to work with & catch the "stray oil".

Great.

Thanks for taking the time to answer.

My pleasure! (and I type really fast!).

You can download a lot of the information about your Stampede, or any Traxxas product, from their web site. Another good resource is Misbehavin's web site which is full of good info.

I have a new Pro-Line Silverado HD body for the Pede sitting at home now, also ordered the IMEX all-T tires for it..... Gonna have a spiffy Pede! I'll get a pic posted when its ready!

Where'd everybody go? Holiday got yer tounge??:D Or just too shocked that I bought something new for my Pede?? :lol:

Wow! I lost some posts in my post count somwhere!!! I was at 1780 something, now 1767?? I lost 20 posts or so somewhere.

well for me my pede has become a pile of parts, till i can pick a newer one. i have a proto type tlt chassis on the way, and it uses a whole pede tranny in the center. so it's a good bad thing :) and the rest of rc cars/trucks have been unused since last weeks race night and afer hours bash fest.


HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

peter

Tom, I just kept seeing your name and figured you were the last poster from like yesterday! I had no idea you were desperate for conversation!
:lol:

I can't wait to see your TLT pix. I have some cool ideas from plays_with_toys chassis. I will be using the stock TLT chassis so i don't lose the speed.

I did get the locked diff into the PRP TLT but it has been nasty raining so I haven't had it out. It runs nice in house but that doesn't really count. Actually this aftenoon, while the radio station was saying the day sucked, I was out with my guys on our bikes. 58 degrees and no rain. That doesn't suck to me! I have to admit, I would rather rid ethatn run R/C's these days. I spend so little time on the bike that every moment counts.

Like your tranny, I pulled the rear shocks off my Pede to get the TLT going. I do have a set of Losi shocks I can put on though so I will have that up again pretty soon! Wow, I just realized! That will be 4 losis on there. Almost like it makes sense.

Hope everybody has a wonderful holiday! Bill? Are you heading north again of spendign it on the island?

Well, Santa was very nice to me. No R/C stuff but good times were had by all. I have some neices down from Canada and one of them had a RS zip-zap she had gotten. We invited them over to see and drive our "real" trucks! We woke up to snow on the ground. Still coming down. Oh well. They went sledding. Jess was actually impressed enough with the zip-zap that he went with x-mas cash and picked up one of the fancy ones for himself. digital proportional steering and throttle, headlights and backup tail lights. Pretty cool actually. We will see how long it lasts! :rolleyes:

glad to hear you had a good christmas chris. we had a nice quite christmas. no rc parts or kits here either. but may pick up some batts this week. i did score a bench grinder to help get some of those chassis ideas out of my head! :)

happy boxing day for any canadians out their!

Hi guys, Merry Holidays.

I wrote a nice long post Xmas day but it seems to have been lost in cyberspace.

Wish all of you a great New Year.

No bench grinder but I did get a scroll saw!!! Unfortunately it is a single speed and that is too high for metals so I am going to take it back and see if I can find a different one. Chassis time!!!

AND, I am playing hookey tomorrow so I can play with my new snow blower! We are getting more than enough to bring it out! Sure hope it starts...

Howdy fellas! Back from my 4 day holiday with family! Hope you all had a wonderful Christmas and will have a happy new year.

Got some neat stuff. Enjoyed the company more.

****sniff****-****sniff-sniff**** :confused: I didn't forget my deodorant....... How come the last few times I've posted everybody seems to disappear? :rolleyes:


:lol:

Hope you guys are enjoying family & friends and making the most of the Holidays.