Where can I get a mod motor for my brp. Speed 300 maybe or anything else. I hate to admit it but there is an HPI micro that is outrunning me so bad in the straights that I cant beat him. This just cant go on any longer. I need to get close to his speed and I will be able to handle him in the turns. Help me guys. :mad:

everyone is pretty much out of the tuned 300's, but www.radmicrosport.com has the cheapest price on graupner 300's. he's pretty fast on shipping also.

for tuned motors check:
www.one18th.com has a tuned motor with a dyno printout
www.blindbatts.com rabid chihuahua
www.unitedrc.com k3
www.kingdaddyracing.com ruby motors
but they are pretty much out of stock....

You will need the BRP speed 300 pod plate..you can also pick up a speed 300 from BRP
www.brpracing.com

Thanks karlo511 and micro___ racer for your replys. I was not aware that Bud sold the speed 300 motors. I will try Bud first and then the others. Micro, I already have the 300 pod, just need the motor. If this doesnt work then I will go to 8-cells!!!!!

38TANGO - do you have the "tuned with gold dust brushes" motor that BRP sells? I find that motor to be quicker in the infield than the speed 300. With the right pinion and spur you will be FAST! :thumbsup:

Micro-- Yes I do. However, I think I got a "dud" from Bud. I have two other older BRP stock motors that seem to run a lot better than the "tuned motor I got from Bud. I haven't complained to Bud about it because he has always helped me out a lot with questions and suggestions, etc. I just need more speed and I am getting desparate...

Micro- How are you geared with your "tuned" motor? 8-52 ???

what gearing combo are you using?
i usually race on a 1/10th scale aspahlt track with either a stock 300 or tuned one and gear it up 52/11 or 52/12 and have consistently been able to pull away from the micros and some 1/10th scale on the straights.

i just order a motor from mike at www.cyberslot.com for a smaller micro specific carpet track. so i'll be testing this one out. i was also using the kit 16d but it felt like i needed more for the 20 - 25ft straight. the infield was no problem.

experiment with the gearing and also try bearings in the rear pod and fronts, if your class allows it. i have the acer ceramic nitrides and they are so smooth :thumbsup:

i just put up these pics
http://www.one18th.com/showtoy.php?id=1896
the sc-18 is just so addictive :D

depends on the track, but 10/52 or 11/52 or some times 12/52

Will the brp pinions fit on the speed 300 motors??

Yes, just file the points off the splines so they go on easier.

And on all Speed 300 motors.....be careful of the endbell when pressing a gear onto the shaft. Don't let those little tabs that the wires solder onto get bent over, they break off easy!

38Tango >> Make sure those slot car motors are not bound up !!!! The 431 should be better than the stock.

38Tango >> Make sure those slot car motors are not bound up !!!! The 431 should be better than the stock.

If I may elaborate...?

If the motor screws cut washers are on the bushing it will distort the can enough to cause it to bind, flat spot toward the bushing for the motor screws.

In the instructions there is a note about ensuring the motor is not bound up by striking the pinion after the motor is secured to the pod. Taking a screwdriver handle and smacking the pinion provides enough shock to the shaft to reset the bushings so they are perpendicular if the washer isn't pressing on the bushing and all is well otherwise.

If you carefully rotate the spur gear and it feels the same with the
motor mesh for the full rotation of the spur gear without feeling tighter or looser on part of the rotation, then the diff is assembled properly. If there is a tight spot or loose spot the diff rings are not glued down flat and you need to fix this. Either the diff ring spacer on the diff side wheel isn't seated properly. This needs disassembled and reglued if that is the problem or the spacer needs "squared up" on the hub.

Any corrections or additions? Bud? others?

Thanks for all of the suggestions everyone. Bud-- The 431 just doesnt have it. I have run it on my turbo 35 and it is very tight compared to two other brp stock motors. I was careful installing it in the car, washers,etc and i did not do anything to the pinion gear before or after installing. Haven't taken it apart yet. Could be the mags have picked up something from my work table. I will check inside the motor tonite. The older motors just have way!! more RPM the the new "tuned" motor. As far as my gearing goes, I am running the new 52 t spur and diff seems to be very smooth. Oh yeah, the new motor pulls more than 9.5 amps at 3 volts on the t-35. Something must be stuck inside, let you know tommorrow. And glad to hear that the brp pinions will fit w/300. Thanks K1m.

38Tango>> Check the bushing it may be pushed in or cocked.

too bad those slot cans aren't a little thicker, huh??

The motor cans are built for lighter weight...as such, the screws can deform the can and bind the shaft if you aren't careful. If you torque it down with the washer on the bushing it can cause the shaft to bind.

Nil came up with a cool one piece washer design that eliminates messing with the two washer and the flat. You'll have to ask him for the template or buy a few from him...

Nil, with all your spare time I'm sure you want to be in the business of one-piece washer creation... :jest:

or you can grind down the bushing on the moter. Grind a flat spot on the top and bottom of the bushing....no more binding!

You will need the #325 pod conversion. And they are fast too fast !!

It is the same motor but they have 6 volt and 7.2 volt versions. The 7.2 is the way to go.it has less bottom end . When I ran the 6 volt I just turned the high end point down on the throttle say like 25% so it was running about 3/4 speed then if I could I would turn it up some.

Bud, is the 6.0v version of the Great Planes 370 motor the one that reads 6.0v - 9.6v on label? It's the only GP 370 motor I could find on Tower.

The Speed 300 6V motor is what he refers to as the 6V motor. The GP 370 is a 7.2V motor and is a good deal for $8...it has the milder wind that is more useable. The Speed 300 6V has too much torque that comes on too fast and it is difficult to drive smooth and fast. The way it comes on and off power it causes the chassis balance to be upset and handling to be twitchy.

It is entertaining for certain.

My $0.05 worth...

RAFster

(Time to go crawl back in my hole...)

Ahh, cool. Thanks for the info.

No idea on the 370 matching up with the rear pod conversion. I just got the 370 from the post office this morning.

iceman, being upset and giving a guy a chance or doing it in private will get you more mileage than spamming them about the price and your opinion of the product is in poor taste and doesn't engender any willingness to help.

What 370 motor are you trying to mount on the Mod motor plate?
The Speed 300 6v and GP 370 motors fit just fine.
They do not fit the stock pod plate set.

Bud and others have pointed out that the mod motor in the form of the Speed 300 or GP 370 are too much motor. The modified arms as mentioned give a fast car. Part of being fast is managing the power delivery to maximize the speed and carry the energy through the corners like the 12th scale racers. If you can't do that, then you won't be fast. The faster you come out of corners the more distance you put between you and the next guy as you are up to top speed faster and have a faster overall time and are quicker around the track.

The Speed 400 or Mabuchi 380 motor is a different beast yet again and won't fit as it is larger and heavier.
I don't know if the Speed 280s will work or not. Not that you'd want the slower less powerful 280 anyway.

Iceman>> It should match up!!! Sorry You hate it.
You say it does not fit in what way does it not fit?
I hate the big block plates also, they are all made by hand one at a time.
If it is bad send it back and I will replace it.
Also sorry your kit was missing bag A all the kits I did for the shop on that day were missing it.
Why Your car was slow I don't know, ours sure are fast!!!! Were batts new and not cycled? was motor bound up?
We also sell a hand picked stock motor #431 that has gold dust motor brushes and is broken in and all.

Thanks Rafster!!!

I did not erase anything but let Me tell You I can!!!
Try 10- 48 on the 7.2 volt. Just use two white spacers the instructions are for the Sc18 also.
You still did not say what did not fit right??
We run on a track that is 90 by 45 and turn lap times as fast as the touring cars, that is with the pro stock motors.

"Iceman" - ???? Cool down, man! Sounds like something on your SC18 is not assembled right. I'm sure it's fixable though and I'm also sure everyone here will be glad to try and help you. First of all, with the stock motor....you say all three of you are slow? Are your motors running hot after a few minutes of racing? Also how long is the longest straight on your track. Like any other RC you have to get the gearing right for your track. Next, what doesn't fit right on the big block conversion, the mounting screws? Give us more info so we can figure this out!

I'm going to bet that the post was edited by Hankster and he posted on the notice about the HobbyTalk Shopper space of having the V2 Racer and other kit available.

Bud will normally provide excellent service and support, but you have to be willing to work with him and reserve the temper for when it is appropriate. You may be upset but it wasn't Bud removing your post. Mistakes can and do happen, given a chance most vendors will make it right. Blowing up about it and posting very negative things will not get you better service and with some it will get you no service. There are some tricks to making these cars work fantastic. Bud knows these hints and tips and is willing to share that info. Some of the concepts are difficult to describe. Such as setting the bushings in the motor after tightening down the mesh. The bushing can misalign causing the motor to bind. If the diff ring isn't flat when glued to the wheel hub you can get a diff that binds as it rotates through the 360 degree cycle.
Lots of details you have to pickup and learn to ensure the car is setup correctly.
Some of it makes you go faster, some of it isn't and some is realiability related.

The SC18 and SC18 V2 are excellent cars and unless there is a problem you will not normally be lapped by 4WD cars unless they are running mod motors.
Your best mod motor would be the Super Stock versions they've been playing with the past year in racing. The big block is just not easy to master and race fast. It is far easier to race with the Super Stock motors.

If it was the post on the 1/18th car from Sweden or somthing Hank just wanted it to be listed on it's own thread.

iceman - for the speed 300, you need to run the 6v motor not the 7.2v and gear it any where from 10, 11, 12 / 52.
:thumbsup:

The Speed 300 7.2V motor as sold by Hobby Lobby (in Tennessee...airplane place not the craft and hobby store) is a very different motor than the 6V Speed 300.
The Great Planes 7.2V 370 motor is a milder wind of the Speed 300 6V motor allowing it to be better suited to the BRP. I have used the 6V Speed 300 and it is a monster.
Lots of grin factor but it is a handful to drive and control. Even on an Oval. Makes for some impressive speed in the straights but the car is unsettled in rolling the weight transfer from front to rear coming off throttle because it is very abrupt just like the speed coming on. The GP 370 7.2V motor doesn't have the early Turbocharger like power application and easier to drive smoothly. Plus you aren't turning the high rates down to 75% to make it driveable.
FWIW

After a weekend with the car, my gripes are small things. Take the big block conversion kit for example. It would have been nice if the 52 tooth spur gear that is recommended in the directions could have been included. Especially considering that the smallest pinion you can use with the stock spur gear is a 13 tooth. Or at the very minimum mention on the big block conversion webpage that the 52 spur gear is recommended and is needed to use smaller pinions. Truthfully though, IMO for $30 for 2 bent pieces of metal and two bushing, the spur gear should have been included.

Also, like I said on the other thread, IMO the bearing wheels should be included in the kit. The front non-bearing wheels are already getting wobbled out after one weekend of racing. If I had known that I would have got the front bearing wheels from the start instead of wasting $10.00 on the non-bearing orange tires.

I chose the BRP car because it was a pan car and I am going to stick with it. IMO it just needs some improvements in some areas to make it a good value that it is advertised as.

Check out the ultimate racer kits offered by hobby shopper. There is a deal :)

Bud, are you serious...or is your tongue firmly planted in cheek about the Ultimate Racer?
Seems pretty pricey. Did Hankster give you a test setup to evaluate the Tekin brushless in it?
I wonder how it compares to the Mamba setup.

I never had a problem with my wheels getting wobbly and I ran the non-bearing wheels for over a year (different sets of course...)
I have the problem with an abrasive asphalt track of tires not lasting more than 2 weekends of racing. 1 weekend for racing and the next for practice and they are coned and pretty much spent.
I chalk it up as the cost of speed.
Some of the Speed 300 racers at DaTrack and other places were getting one run out of a set of fronts. That's intense.

Rafster >> We were able to get a race day out of fronts with the speed 300. the orange dot tire is a long wear foam now.
I think that is a killer price at $129.95 You get battery, ball diff, #341 motor, ball bearings for the fronts.
No I have not got the Tekin brushless yet.

Bud,
The Ultimate Racer is $289.95 and includes:

http://www.hobbyshopper.com/shop/product.php?productid=16170&cat=258&page=1

----------
If you want the ulimate BRP SC18 V2 car kit with all the hops available plus a brushless motor. Just assemble, add your own reciever, transmitter, servo and go! The #1 1/18th scale car kit as tested by RC Driver magazine!

Includes the following:
Ball bearing front wheels
Ball diff kit
Wide rear tires
Big block rear pod kit
Tekin Rage Hi-Preformance (Performance) brushless motor and speed control
Hi-performance 6-cell battery pack with battery bars

Your choice of the following:
Blue or orange compound front tires
Wedge or SAL clear lexan body

Blue tires work well on lower traction surfaces, orange tires are best for high traction (carpet) surfaces. Wedge body is great on oval tracks and the SAL is the best handling body of road course

----------

Now, the killer price of $129.95 I would agree...great price for the full setup on V2 Racer kit.

That makes the Tekin brushless setup go for an additional $160 a pop in the Ultimate setup.
The setup separately is $150?
http://www.hobbyshopper.com/shop/product.php?productid=16166&cat=253&page=1

Does the Tekin setup need the Big Block pods or does it use the Standard pod set?

Rafster he also has the car with out brushless!!! $129.95
www.hobbyshopper.com
I don't know on the Tekin they never sent mine :(
Any racing going on out there?

Bud,
I know...
The $129.95 is the "V2 Racer Kit" and it is a deal. The $289.95 is the "V2 Ultimate Racer Kit" for $289.95. The Ultimate Racer kit has the Tekin Brushless motor.

Iceman,
The Speed 300 7.2V motor is not the same as the GP 370 7.2V motor.
The Speed 300 7.2V motor is a dog by comparison.
They are both Mabuchi 370 motors but the winding is different on the Graupner Speed 300 6V and the Graupner Speed 300 7.2V motor and the Great Planes 370 motor is a little milder than the Speed 300 6V motor.
Some links to clarify...
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/speed300.htm
Look at the specs on the 300 6V vs. the 300 7.2V motor and note the difference in shafts.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGLK3&P=ML
This is a Great Planes T370 motor rated at 6.0 - 9.6V
At $8 it is a bargain.
The GWS 370 motor heat sink looks interesting...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHHN7&P=7

Yes, the 2 or 3 white spacers are below the spring and the bottom washer. The larger 12th scale damper washers are the way to go and then use Associated's Green slime between the washers around the post. The top spring is shorter for the 300 pod plate isn't it?

I've not had time to race, brought my cars out but not everything to support them. Maybe I'll have room this trip to bring some of the hobby accessories for the cars.
No one here runs them yet. Having 3 cars I could almost create a class with two other drivers. They were/are racing them in Yuma but that would be $$ to go race as it is 242 miles away. I don't need to race that bad.

Check out the closeup pics on www.brpracing.com of the V2. They should help some.

I don't recall the 7.2V Speed 300 being recommended; I thought it was the GP 370 7.2V motor...
The 6V is more like many of the early turbocharged cars, power coming on in a big rush. Many of the modern turbo designs have it much more refined and the power is across the band like the supercharging is known for providing.

Have no experience with Eflite motors. The Wattage 370 geared motor is a little milder than the 6V Graupner but not by much. It may be more like the GP motor...don't know.
The Speed 300 size motor makes adjusting the diff much more of a challenge. Too loose and the friction coming out of the corners can cause things to get too hot with the diff slipping.

The wider rear tires help the car hook up and handle higher power output. One thing that became apparent to racers running the Speed 300 6V on a high banked carpet oval was that motor was pushing the car's tires to their limits. The wider tires resulted from that. A large wing also helped greatly. Guys would use a small 10th scale wing
on the car and it provided enough downforce in combination with the bigger tires to up the lap speeds and lower the lap times. The cars then started moving into the realm of 10th scale pan car speeds for the B main and sometimes the low A main qualifying speeds.

You need to have a car that doesn't have any binding and good bearings in the car help a lot. The diff needs to operate butter smooth as well.

All too often the on & off power of the Speed 300 would make the lap times be less than a good stock motor. The Super Stock with the American wound arms were the way to go for more power. It resulted in a more driveable car.

Playing with the Speed 300 you will see what we mean.

RAFster

ICEMAN513>> Eflight is fine. The white spacers two of them go onto the damper post they sit on top of the fiberglass plate that holds the tube then a long blue spring then a o ring and the damper washer with the flat side up then You put the pod top plate on. I fill the area of the top plate around the damper tube with 100 weight shock oil for dampening effect. Now you put on the other damper washer with the flat down against the top plate, a oring and the short blue spring, retaining collar comprese the spring just slightly.

How old are You ????

Iceman -- take a queue from your name and CHILL OUT DUDE! Bud is one of the nicest people in the R/C business! He hand makes the car you are racing, and takes great pride in them. Sure he is getting a little old, and a part bag may be missing now and then, BUT he always makes it right!

A lot of times the 1/18th scale market brings in the “new” racers. Some of our younger friends on this forum did not have the experience of building a kit. In most cases a slow or poorly handling car could be directly linked to oversights in building it. His age comment was just a way to find out how much experience you have……nothing more



What electronics and batteries are you using?

I have to agree with Micro, Bud really does not have mean bone in his body. I have known him since he was 13 yrs old. I think of him as a good friend and know he meant no disrespect. I am 66 yrs old and have been in RC for over 35 yrs, just to show age differences.

oops wrong thread

No pot shot just curious. We do get alot of new young racers asking ???
I'm the dummy cause I go on these threads and try to help and get dumped on. Did the response on the setup help?

I am 66 yrs old and have been in RC for over 35 yrs, just to show age differences.

:p :p WoW Don....What did they run RC's on way back then,,, coal?? :p :p

Just trying to lighten things up abit!

Coal,no methane yes. We all eat a lot of beans.

Unfortunately BRP T-Shirts are not in the budget, not even for BRP Team Drivers! :) :)Good luck tomorrow night!

Team drivers?? Who is that??

Few questions. How do you make the ball diff smooth? I sanded both rings and then super glued them to the "ring mounts". I also super glued the plastic ring mount to the rear wheel. I tried new diff balls. My diff is still crunchy/notchy if I tighten it down where it will not slip. I made sure no super glue was on the rings. The rings look to be flat against the balls.

Also, how tight should the diff be? To get it to keep from slipping with the GP 370 motor, I had to get it pretty tight. In comparison, way tighter than a standard 1/12th or 1/10th pan car.

Finally, how do you keep the rear end from "hopping" when on the gas? This hopping is especially pronounced coming out of the corners. I'm assuming it is caused by my screwed up diff?

Also, what do I need to buy to get a new plastic ring mount that goes over the rear wheel? It's not in the diff rebuild kit nor is it in the extra set of rear tires I bought. ARG!