2slow00, Bud.. I had alot of fun with the BRP car this weekend at the Bratt. I'm finally getting there with my setup and driving style. Bud, thanks for the help with the motor setup!

Mario good run yesterday. I'll get you next time. Tang great job.Next race at the Brat should be exciting.

Tangtester::: Good race sunday! Your 18 years of exp. showed as my 24 years also showed as brain fade wall hits http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif I bet Chuck would have had fun!!! Dick and Craig good run guys looking like your getin hooked up!
I heard from the florida racer running a SC18 against the Micros He won by 2 laps and thats on a big outdoor track. The Micros had lots of those trick go fast hop ups on them, Guees they need more http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif

So,
What is the difference now between the SC18 racing truck and the Fun Wons Heavy Hauler ? Just the wheels ?
Thanks,
Raz

Raz: The bigger wheels are the most obvious difference, I believe the front beam (where the king pins mount) and the rear axle may be longer.
Bud: How about it, any other differences? Also, I've had several people running kits with no-diff axles that want to replace their spur gear. Will #366 the 46t fit on their axles? Or do they need #351? The last Touring Terror kit I got came with the old 44t gear and I replaced it with part #351. Then there's the guy who wants to run a 52t but doesn't want to invest in the diff kit!

I think the diff kit is probably the best hop up for any BRP, what do you guys think?

More 1/18 Scale Pit Tips (http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/BRPittips.html)

http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/wavingflag.gif
BRP-MADE IN THE USA


[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 12-03-2001).]

I'd agree Kim. I've never actually run it without a diff but it sure does handle well with it. If it wouldn't have been for us getting hooked up there during the main you would've had a 33 EASY.

Check all results at Racers Edge R/C Racing and Hobbies (http://users.penn.com/~morg/track.html)

OK, I am pleased with my rear-end conversion so far, Yes it did torque steer under hard acceleration, but simply readjusting the servos center point helped alot. acceleration was also slightly slower, but any loss was easily made up on the turns...and quickly. Steering was more than ample, the only time I had any problems was triing to steer to the left while accelerating hard from a dead stop. While racing I found that I could maintain most of my straight away speed throughout the entire turn, infact after the first 4-6 laps all I had to do was slightly let off the trottle just before the turn and then jam back in the throttle almost instantly..... I was very pleased.

Note: the free-spinning wheel was on the right and I had a harder spring on the right-front. Next I will try flipping the sideplates on the motor pod to make the car drive from the right instead of the left. I will also try switching the front springs to releave the torque steer, and both front springs matched. Also note that I am using the kit stock tires.

This set-up seems to be even better than the balldiff for oval, if you can control it......

For sale:

1x Super Oval Outlaw. With Stock Car body. Needs 1 screw and nut on rear pod and body posts/clips installed

1x BRP 4-Cell Pack w/connector
1x BRP 5-Cell Pack w/connector
1x BRP 6-Cell Pack w/connector
1x BRP #252 "GTP Sports" Body -- still in bag
1x BRP #253 Ferrari F40 Body -- Still in bag
1x Tower Hobbies TS-35 high-power mini servo
1x Hitec RCD Lynx AM w/receiver

Only items not included are ESC and charger. Make offer.

[This message has been edited by kb9vrg (edited 12-07-2001).]

Bud: Can you tell me will #366 the 46t fit on S.O.O. axles? Or do they need #351? The last Touring Terror kit I got came with the old 44t gear and I replaced it with part #351, but I wondered if that hex on the 46t was to fit on the no diff axle? Another racer wants to know if he can fit a 52t to his no diff axle. I told him I didn't think so but I would ask you.

1/18 Scale Racing Page (http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/BuRPhome.html)

K1M>>> You should have gotten the 46 with that kit, must have had a 44 mixed in with the 46. The 52 will not work on a none diff axle. We are off from racing until Jan 6 2002
Keep us posted on your racing http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif

OK I trashed my free-wheeling for now, the car was just too hard to get back afeter making changes. I will be getting a diff, but for now I have a new set-up and it works very well....

RF- plastic spacer same as on top of spring under steering block, orange spring.
LF- blue spring
- readjust front toe for about 1 1/2 deg. toe-in

LR- SAUSED--- Red dot
LR- stock

I believe I will be getting diff and a few sets of tires front and rear... This should hook me up better without the sause....

What is the best gear ratio for the SC18 (not fun wons) My brother and myself have 9/46, while my dad has 9/44 w/balldiff, and we seem alot faster than he is, will the same ratio with a balldiff allow us to keep out top-end while handling better?? BTW: we run 4 cells instead of 6 and the speeds are awesome....

Thanks BUD we love these cars!!! hands down better than any MINI-SHE or micro!!!! Especially when you slap a board hard enough to move the entire track and the car keeps going!!!!! 7 weeks, the first 4 racing 2 SC18's and a Bolinks legend!!! and no breaks, no problems, no complaints wish my 1/10ths where like that!!!!!

OHH and I am getting my wife an SC18 and she will be sharing it with my 3 year old daughter!!! All but the bodies cause wifey wants an F-40 and Amanda wants a powerpuff girls monte!!!!!

Nine mini racers lined up this week to do battle on the ozite. Don was "Da Man" this week with KSG closing fast for second with 30 laps each and Mike Asel came in third with a solid 28 lap run.

And where was Da Wedge you may ask? Chugging along in 4th with a VERY sick motor, but havin' a ball anyway. Looks like the old Deathstar motor has had it, as it has lost all it's zip and is throwing alot of sparks from the comm. Too bad, that motor has alot of fun runs on it.

Ovalman had his share of troubles also, his BuRP develops a nasty glitch when he gets in the pack, and I have an idea he'll have a different motor next week too.

Speaking of the pack, it looks like we'll be adding a few more racers to it in the next few weeks. Two for sure, maybe more.
I talked to Santa Clause, he said Kris hasn't been very good this year, but he's getting his own BuRP anyway. Hehehe!

I just posted this over on the http://www.YourMicro.com forums under this topic: RS4 Micro vs. BRP Super Car 18 :: 1/18th Scale Questions??? (http://pub94.ezboard.com/fmymicrofrm1.showMessage?topicID=697.topic) and would like everyone to reply here and over there so we can get some good opinions from both sides.

Thank you,

cnc137.

============================================
Recently I got into R/C Car Racing an bought a HPI RS4 Pro 3 kit and really enjoyed building it and I want to race it soon. I would also like to my brother to go to the races with me but he doesn't want to spend the amount of money that I have to get my Pro 3 up and running. So, I was thinking about buying him a 1/18th Scale R/C Car Kit because they are cheaper and seem like they will take less money and time to build and upkeep.

So, I started looking around the Internet for information and ran across two different types of 1/18th R/C Car Kits on the market and they are the HPI RS4 Micro which everyone here is enjoying and the BRP Super Car 18 ( www.BRPRracing.com (http://www.BRPRracing.com) ) which eveyone over at these forums are enjoying: BRP 1/18 Scale - Hobby Talk Forum.

So, now I am confused???

- Which one is better?
- Which one goes faster?
- Which one has more hop-ups?
- Which one costs less?
- Which one has more races in the area I live in (Cleveland, OH) and around the country?
- Which one has better support?
- Which requires less maintenance?
- Will HPI 1/18th bodies fit on a BRP Super Car 18?
- Will BRP bodies fit on the HPI RS4 Micro?
- Are there other companies that sell hop-ups for either car kit?

So, does anyone have any advice on which one to get or does anyone have both and can they tell me which one they like better?

Any information would be appreciated.

Thank you,

cnc137.
--------
http://www.DreamStation.cc
Dreamcast :: GameCube :: PlayStation 2 :: Xbox
============================================

K1M......naw I'll leave Ma with that motor that's in hers. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif Pretty quick even having a 46t on there huh? http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/biggrin.gif I'm thinking I'm going to try swapping receivers with my 2wd stock and see if the Novak makes a difference. If that don't help I'll go from there.

cnc137.....

- Which one is better? I think it's matter of opinion and since I haven't seen a micro run yet I can't make a definate answer but from what Bud and a couple of these other guys say, the BRP is better at handling.

- Which one goes faster? Again it seems to be matter of opinion and those that have seen both run can be better judges but it seems to me any micros that show up to race with those guys end up getting beat. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif

- Which one has more hop-ups? That one would definatly have to go to the micro. There are a whole bunch of places that are jumping on the micro hopup list. Kyosho themselves, Hardcore, etc......

- Which one costs less? I think this one would have to go to the BRP. About $89 for the car and then throw in some cheap radio gear and go as opposed to about $110 plus the radio gear for the micro.

- Which one has more races in the area I live in (Cleveland, OH) and around the country? Sorry, can't help you there.

- Which one has better support? Parts support or tech support? Both are probably about the same. That and you can stop by here any time and get an answer straight from the BRP man himself, Bud. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif

- Which requires less maintenance? Can't speak for the micro but I cleaned my BRP about once a month during last years racing season. Most often maintenance required it seems is rebending the steering rods straight.

- Will HPI 1/18th bodies fit on a BRP Super Car 18? Sorry can't help you here either.

- Will BRP bodies fit on the HPI RS4 Micro? Ditto...

- Are there other companies that sell hop-ups for either car kit? As mentioned before there are companies moving into the hopup market all the time for the micro. The BRP has been sadly left behind in this factor but it could also tell you something of the "box stock" kit, no hopups required (except the diff kit). http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/biggrin.gif

As to which one to get, which is being run where you race is the question as well as which has more parts support? We at our track know the durability and race worthyness of the BRP.

[This message has been edited by OvalmanPA (edited 12-11-2001).]

Wow! You do have questions, huh? You came to the right place, and I'll go along with Ovalman's great job of answering also. I think 1/18 Scale racing would be a good place for your brother to start out too. We haven't seen any Micro's around here yet, so most comparisons we've made are based on what others on this thread and the micro rs4 thread have said. And although they're both 1/18 scale its like comparing a pan car to a touring car. They both have features the other doesn't and I'm sure they're both fun to drive. I think the SC18 would require less maintenance due to it's less complicated design and proven reliability. If you're into hopups, it looks like you'll be able to spend as much $$ as you want on the micro....all you need to turn the SC18 into a race ready machine is the ball diff and a good pack of AA's.
BRP racing offers 15 bodies to choose from and I understand the Micro's wheelbase is 10mm shorter so I doubt the bodies will interchange.
Visit your local tracks and see what they're racing before you decide which one to buy.
Good Luck.
More 1/18 Scale BuRP Pit Tips (http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/BRPittips.html)

http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/wavingflag.gif
BRP- PROUDLY MADE IN THE USA

CNC:::: Lots of ??? If you want to spend lots of $$$ get the HPI They are making chassis parts that will cost you about $250.00 from hardcore racing and it just goes on from there.
You can buy a SC18 from tower hobbies for $59.99 that is a complete kit less battery and your radio gear.
We are getting 22 racers at the NORCAR races in Cleveland next race Jan 6 You can run a Micro but it will not count for points.
Our bodies will fit if you have a long wheel base Micro. and HPI Viper will fit our car.
The BRP car handles much better than the Micro and is very fast.
Come to the next race and see!!!!!!!!

The only part I think you could damage on an SC18 is the steering blocks (and I don't see that happening) and they are the same as the old 10L blocks, which are the same as the blocks for the bolinks legends/digger/pancar blocks...so parts will always be available. Cleaning my car actually takes about 3 min. every 2-3 weeks (including oiling the bushings). The tires can actually be used until they are just off the rims. I will say I have seen a Micro almost as fast as my SC18....it had 6 cells and I run 4!!!!! Also the SC18 can be ran on parking lots without worriing about drt fouling the drivetrain... but the micros belt is another story when it comes to dirt....

Also when the small scale craze ends (and it probably will) HPI will drop the micro like a bad habit and parts/ new cars will not be available (just look at the past with the mini rs4 line and F1 cars!!!). Mean while Bud will still be there supporting his loyal followers.

cnc137:

Bud is being much too modest, or trying to be impartial. If you live in Cleveland, there's only one answer. Navigate to http://www.the-big-al.com/norcar/ and check the schedule and standings. Better, faster don't matter a whole lot. Support here is great. The BRPs are made in Elyria, and Bud (the B in BRP) has shown up at every race in the series. He is a real hero to dozens of kids at each race.

Someplace else, the answer may be different. But I doubt if anywhere you can talk to the man responsible for the HPI like you can the BRP.

Come over to the January 6 race and have a look-see. Talk to Bud. Then decide.

Have fun racing.



[This message has been edited by Nil (edited 12-12-2001).]

My brother and I actually came to the Brat on November 18th to see you guys race since I just bought a HPI RS4 Pro 3 in October and wanted to see what the track looked like and how many people raced there so once I got another crystal for my radio I could join you guys. That was also when I first heard of BRP but I didn't really know what it was at that time. I saw Bud there at the races but didn't realize that he created the cars until someone mentioned it to us when they were passing by my brother and I in the watching in the corner of the gym. I actually thought you guys were racing HPI RS4 Micros up until that person said they were racing BRPs. I was kind of confused but also interested and that is why I started doing some research and found that Super Car 18s are just as nice as the HPI RS4 Micros and maybe even a little faster, plus cheaper!

I have another question...

Can the Super Car 18s be converted into Super Car 18 Fun WONS by just changing the tires and the body or are they totally different chassis on the Super Car 18 Fun WONS even though they use the same blue fiberglass design???

I would like to buy the $59.99 Super Car 18 kit for my brother at Tower Hobbies but I would also like him to be able to convert it later to a Fun WONS since I think they look cooler but I don't want to spend the money up front for the Fun WONS since it will be over the Christmas budget for him. =)

If I got the Super Car 18 kit what would I need to change it to a Fun WONS (I am guessing I need tires and a body. Am I missing anything?) if this is possible and how much would it cost?

Thank you,

cnc137.

cnc, I don't know if you can convert to a funwon from an SC 18 but I think you can buy a kit to convert the fun won. Soo it should work. The Sc18 handles much better than the funwon. I think I was the guy that pointed Bud out to you at the race.

2slow00,

Thanks for making us feel welcome! http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif

I talked to Bud today on the phone and he told me that you can convert the SC18 to a Fun WON but by the time you did you might as well buy the Fun WON again. He said that there is more than just the tires and body involved in converting the SC18 to a Fun WON. I guess the Fun WON also has a wider front end and some other components that are different. He did say that the Fun WON goes a little faster since the big tires help but they are both competitive.

I am still trying to decide if I want to get the SC18 for my brother and the Fun WON for myself or just get us both SC18 for $60 at Tower Hobbies. The one thing that I have decided is that if I get us 1/18th scale R/C cars they will be BRP brand and not HPI. I love my HPI RS4 Pro 3 (even if people say it has a lot of flex) but I don't want to spend
over a $100 to $200 to get a 1/18th scale car running just to have fun with it. I think I have figured out that BRP is the way to go if you want to have a good time racing small cars. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/wink.gif

cnc137.
------
http://www.DreamStation.cc
Dreamcast :: GameCube :: PlayStation 2 :: Xbox

cnc137:

Oh, yeah, we forgot to point out that Bud usually has cars for rent at the Brat. So, bring your RS4 and rent one. I'd e-mail or call Bud to make sure he'll have rent-a-wrecks on the sixth. Check with him on details, but I think he discounts rental fees against purchase.

For beginners (I should know), trying to run three cars can be a pain. Is your brother up to maintaining his own, or will you be juggling them? You'd be amazed at what can go wrong and still have a chance at fixing them before the next heat.

Start small; you can always spend yourself broke next week.

My brother who is 41 and is on his own once we get him the kit for Christmas. If he breaks something he can buy a new one and fix it himself. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/biggrin.gif My wife and I are probably going to buy him the kit and my Mom and Dad are going to get him the Remote Controller but after that he has to buy his own stuff. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif hehe...

Bud did mention that he rents them but we want to get it for him for Christmas and I would like my wife to buy me one for Christmas also, so, Jan. 6th will be too late. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif

I really like how the Fun WONS ($90) look but I think I like the price of the SC18s ($60) so I am up in the air on which one I should get for myself if I get one.

Which one would you guys recommend? Fun WON or SC18???

cnc137.

cnc,If you want to race get the SC18 it flat out handles better.

cnc137: I have to disagree with 2sloow. It's true the SC18 has a more scale appearance, but the Fun Wons have a look all their own. I don't think Bud decided to put the larger tires on them to make them handle worse either. More contact means more traction. You don't need the conversion kit to change a Sc18 to a Fun Won either. Everything's the same except the tires, front beam, and rear axle/hub. Even the bodys will fit with alittle trimming. I'm sure it would be cheaper to just buy a Fun Won than to convert a SC18 though.
We race both styles together here at Racer's Edge and the Fun Wons have been MUCH more competitive. But they're both alot of Fun!
Check out this link for some pix of our Fun Wons:
BuRP Pix (http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/BuRPix.html)

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by k1m:
Everything's the same except the tires, front beam, and rear axle/hub. </font>

k1m:

I presume you mean to include steering blocks & linkage when you say "front beam." Looking at your pictures, those are different; I can't tell for sure about the posts & springs.

I decided to order the BRP Super Car 18 since it was only $60 on http://www.TowerHobbies.com and I was buying one for myself and my brother for Christmas. I really like how the HPI RS4 Micros bodies and wheels look and the hop-ups that are available but I couldn't justify paying the extra $40 if there would be no one to race at my local track.

I hope some third party makes some hop-ups for the BRP soon but I am not holding my breath. Oh well, at least I get to race a great car with a bunch of people and for a cheap price.

I would also be interested in knowing exactly what is different between the SC18 and the Fun WON since I would be willing to pay the money to convert the SC18 later on to the Fun WON. Then I could have both cars and all I would have to do is reconfigure them back and forth. Plus, I will need to buy tires sooner or later so I could buy the 1/12th scale tires and convert my SC18 when I need new tires for it. And, I wouldn't mind having a few bodies for it the BRP either. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif

I would appreciate it if someone could post the exact things needed to convert the SC18 to a Fun WON and the price for each item.

Lastly, I don't know if Bud take suggestions on bodies and hop-ups but I would like to see more touring car bodies, rims, and tires for the SC18. Touring Cars are all the rage in the 1/10th scale R/C car class so I think he should ride the wave and make some for the 1/18th scale BRPs. I would like to see rims like the Micro has with spokes instead of the Nascar style rims that are available now and if they could have rubber tires on them that would be cool also.

A few bodies I would like to see are as follows:

- 1998 Dodge Startus (I own a real one. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif )
- 2001 Mitsubishi Galant (I own one of these too! http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/tongue.gif )
- Honda Civic
- Honda Accord
- Subaru Impreza
- BMW M or 3 Series
- Nissan Silvia
- Mitsubishi Eclipse
- Dodge Viper
- Lamborghini Diablo

No rush on these ideas Bud I am just thinking out loud. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/biggrin.gif I know you told me, I think, that you are working on new tires and rims now.

Which bodies, rims, tires or other hop-ups would you like to see made if Bud can make them easily or during his next hop-up creation process?

cnc137. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif

cnc137:

Come on over to Bratenahl on the sixth and look at some Fun Wons. I think you'll find the hassle of converting them onerous, if you intend to do it more than once.

Bud says he's looking for some ideas for new bodies since his Corvette is such a hit. He also says the HPI Viper fits his cars.

Nil: You're right, the tie rods are longer on the Fun Wons, but the steering blocks, kingpins and axles are the same. The SC18 comes with red springs I think and the Fun Wons have blue springs. My steering blocks are the same except they came from an Associated 12L. They were white so I could dye them blue.

CNC137: Ok, Here it is..........
Retail
#400 Rear blue tires $11.50
#401 Front orange/blue tires 11.50
#453 Tie Rods 4.00
#303 F.W. complete front end 15.00
#365 F.W. complete diff kit 25.00

You might save some money by contacting Bud and ask him for a SC18 Fun Won front beam,(you don't need the whole front end) and the Fun Won rear hubs. I checked and the axles are the same length, so really all you need are the hubs. That still leaves the springs and gearing to really hook it up.
Thats why we suggest just buying a Fun Won if thats what you want. I'm sure you're going to love racing the SC18s with your brother.

One of the best things about BRP is their products are all simple but durable in design. I doubt you'll see any titanium/aluminum hop ups, mostly because they don't need them. Bud doesn't even sell bearings for them, the bushings keep the cost down and last quite a while if you oil them. Keeping it simple and FUN is important. Cheap helps alot too!



[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 12-16-2001).]

Thanks for the info and I think I started something over at the http://www.YourMicro.com (HPI RS4 Micro) Web Site.

Check out this thread for more details:

http://pub94.ezboard.com/fmymicrofrm1.showMessage?topicID=697.topic

Maybe I have helped convert a few people and I don't even have a SC18 yet. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif

cnc137.

I got two 6 AA NiCD battery packs with 600mAh last night at my local Hobbytown USA for myself and my brother. They say they are for an M1 Tank but they have the Tamiya connector and are 7.2v so I think they will work but they may not last as long as the ones from BRP but they were $10 cheaper ($16.99 each). If they last 15 minutes per charge I will be happy and they should be fine to get my brother and I started. We will probably buy a couple more battery packs later.

- Do they sound okay to you guys for just starting out cheap?
- What type of battery packs do you guys run?
- NiMH or NiCD?
- How many mAhs?
- How many cells? (4, 5, 6 or more!)
- How long of a run time do you get?
- How long does it take to charge them?
- What charger do you use?

I know, I know... I am mister question guy. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/biggrin.gif

Any information would be appreciated.

Thank you,

cnc137.

- Do they sound okay to you guys for just starting out cheap?

Should work just fine for five minute heats; I've never seen a BRP "dump" in that time.

- What type of battery packs do you guys run?

Some put their own together; many stick with the BRP pack since it's not hard to use just a single pack for the whole day

- NiMH or NiCD?

Most of what I see at Brat is NiCd. I've read conflicting opinions on NiMH; it doesn't seem needed for five minute heats.

- How many mAhs?

700; BRP stock and the most common "loose" battery.

- How many cells? (4, 5, 6 or more!)

It depends on where you're racing. Six at the Brat.

- How long of a run time do you get?

More than five minutes

- How long does it take to charge them?

Depends on the charge rate. About fifteen minutes after a heat.

- What charger do you use?

Any adjustable rate unit with peak detection is fine. I usually use 1.5 a before race day, 2.5 just before the race and between heats.




[This message has been edited by Nil (edited 12-18-2001).]

Racing was different this week than usual, not sure why but all the classes had lower lap counts. The BuRP class was no exception, the best we could do was 28 laps, but it was no less exciting. We even ran a "grudge match" on the oval during intermission. Normally we run the roadcourse but a BuRP oval race was pretty neat. We didn't keep track of laps, but I'll just say there's nothing quite like a new motor! http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/wink.gif
Team Fortner took the first 2 places in the Feature with KSG 3rd, Stark(his first race) took 4th. Ovalmans still got radio problems, but Laura is getting faster every week. Kris is pouting because he has to wait until after Xmas to play.
Next week I hope to have some pix of us so you guys can see what a motley crew we are!


http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/vw.gif


[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 12-18-2001).]

cnc137(Micro Master): Thanx for the link, it's kinda neat to see what the micro boys think of BRP's.

Last year, Steve Hill (Hilltop Batterys)sent me several different brands of AA's to try for racing. We tried Energizer, Panasonic, and Sanyo Nicads from 700mah to 1100mah. We also tried some 1200 NiMH's. All were charged at 1 Amp and raced for 5 minutes. The Energizers died after 2 weeks, the Sanyo's seemed the fastest of the Nicads, but the NiMH's really make the BuRPs fly. They'd probably run for 15 min or more, but we only run 5 min. Their higher voltage at the 5 minute mark is what I like. I run one pack twice (I have 2) every other week and I get a better charge the 2nd run. The only bad thing is I think a lower charge rate (.75 amps)works better with NimH so they take a while to charge. I use a Tekin 112a & 112C to charge them. We race 6 cell packs.

I am confused...

I just recently started getting interested in a BPR 1/18th car... I had heard about the Fun WONs cars for some time now, but had really not been to interested. Then I stumbled across the SC 18, and my first impression was that this was a new car and was designed to more or less replace the Fun WONs cars.

NOW I hear folks saying that the Fun WONS are actually faster cars... I also hear talk of converting a SC 18 to a Fun WONs car... I don't understand all this...

What exactly are the differances? It seems there is a NEW version of the Fun WONs that comes with the T-plate and such and may be much more like the SC 18 then the original Fun WON. Howerver I still don't understand which of these is intended to be the racier version of the two...

Pesonaly I want something that is fun, durable, yet is fast and will be competitive if I ever should decided to come down to Ohio and race with you guys...

For now I intend to basicly just use the 1/18 scale car to practice my driving skills in my basement but this may not always be the case.

TMFU- There is an SC Fun Wons (T-plate chassis) as well as a SC18 (T-plate chassis). The SC Fun Wons was released after the SC18. Up until the release of the SC Fun Wons the only way to put the new chassis on Da Bug was with the conversion kit.

As far as which is better- I don't own a Fun Wons, but it would seem the Fun Wons would handle better and might have a little more top end with the bigger tires. I would say the SC18 has a little more "scale" appearance.

If I understand it correctly the wheels and the suspension hardware that attach the wheels to the car (including axels and stearing blocks???) are differnt between the SC Fun WONS and the SC 18 cars? That is if you buy a Fun WONS car you can't attach the SC 18 wheels to it without swaping out several other hardware components (and vica versa). What exactly does change?

Also... can someone give me the actual dimensions of these BRP 1/18 scale cars... Wheel base, width, and length (and even weight if someone knows that).

I'm really wondering right now if I'd just be better off to get a 1/12 scale car, since I don't really plan to compete with other 1/18 scale racers anytime soon, and could compete with local 1/12 scale guys...

When I was talking to Bud last week before I made my purchase he told me that the Fun WONs may go a little faster than the SC18 because they have bigger tires and that both cars handle about the same. He also mentioned that the SC18 is maybe a little better for racing since it's wheels are inside the body and if you hit a wall with the SC18 it will slide off instead of getting stuck or drawn in like the Fun WONS do with the tires sticking out past the body.

I hate to not recommend a BRP but if no one races them in your area you might be better off getting a 1/12th scale car. At first I wanted to get a HPI RS4 Micro but after seeing everyone at my local track running BRPs I decided that they were the better way to go and they were cheaper! BONUS!!! http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/biggrin.gif I don't know if I will race that often but when I do I would like to have people to race against and that is why BRP was the choice for me for me 1/18th scale R/C car.

cnc137.

TMFU: Your questions about the differences between SC18 and SC Fun Wons can be found in earlier posts. Unless you live in a BIG house, you're going to have a tough time running a 1/12 scale in the basement I think. Theres alot of 1/18 scale basement & garage racing going on around the country. All you have to do is get one of your friends to buy one too, and you're in for a race and a good time.

SC Fun Won
wheelbase: 5 3/4 "
width: 5 1/8 "
weight: 16.3 oz (race ready- 6 cell battery, transponder, etc.)

SC18
wheelbase: 5 3/4"
width: 4 1/4"
weight: ? probably slightly less than SCFW

We did weigh an old style Fun Won (black chassis) last week and it weighed within .1 oz the same as my SC Fun Won (blue chassis).

[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 12-19-2001).]

TMFU&gt;&gt;&gt; Go with the SC 18 for basement running! The 1/12th will be way too fast and very hard to drive and cost alot more in the long run. I know of people racing in two car garages and basements with the SC18 and they are having a blast http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif

How can the wheelbase be 5-3/4"??? the photos show them with a dollar bill next to them, and the wheel base seems to be about a inch longer then the dollar bill... are you sure it's not 6 -3/4"?

I've got a area in my basement with about 840 sq. ft. It's not exactly a rectangle, but has a 24 x 19' section and one spot that would allow for a 35' straightaway. It's essentialy a 34' x 12' section that is parralell with another 37 x12' section and the two sections are side by side in the middle 19 feet. I originaly felt that a 12th scale car (4 cells) would be ok... even if it was a bit hard to control... I figured I'd have to learn how to drive very well to get good lap times on a realtively tight track, but not impossible to drive on this. The ultimate goal being that when I went to race on a bigger track I'd feel like it was a breeze compared to what I was used to while practicing in my basement...

Certianly a SC 18 would be eazyer to drive in this area, but it means that I have to run differnt motors, differnt tires, batteries, diffs and etc... then are commonly available at my local hobby stores. I realise the area I have would actualy be better suited for a 18th scale car, but I just feel odd having to buy stuff that I really could not race competitvely anywhere within a hour or more of my home... (unless I could find a few friends who wanted to buy them too).

It's really kind of a difficult decsion for me... even though I'm certian the SC 18 cars would be much fun...

I could de-tune and under gear a 12th scale untill I learned to drive better.... Oh... woe is me... what to do.

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by TMFU:
How can the wheelbase be 5-3/4"??? the photos show them with a dollar bill next to them, and the wheel base seems to be about a inch longer then the dollar bill... are you sure it's not 6 -3/4"? </font>

Must be the camera angle. A bill is just a bit longer than the wheelbase.

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by TMFU:
Certianly a SC 18 would be eazyer to drive in this area, but it means that I have to run differnt motors, differnt tires, batteries, diffs and etc... then are commonly available at my local hobby stores. I realise the area I have would actualy be better suited for a 18th scale car, but I just feel odd having to buy stuff that I really could not race competitvely anywhere within a hour or more of my home... (unless I could find a few friends who wanted to buy them too). </font>

Since it doesn't sound like you're planning on getting into competition soon, save the money. You can get completely set up for BRPs for the cost of one 1/12 chassis.

Bud is pretty good about getting things shipped out quick. These are durable parts, too. You won't need too much in the way of replacements.

It looks like BRPs may be spreading up your way, too.




[This message has been edited by Nil (edited 12-19-2001).]

I currently own a Micro RS4 but I also wanted to get one of the BRP. I don't know which one to get right now, the SC18 or Fun Won. I really didn't want the body of Da Bug so I am more leaning towards the SC18 and besides Bud says an HPI Viper body would fit into it so that's a plus for me. But then I like the Fun Won better because it is wider and heard a lot of good things about it. Help me decide coz I wanted to buy one before the sale at Tower Hobbies ends.

SPEEDSTER &gt;&gt; Go with the SC18 You will like it http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif

The sale at TowerHobbies.com is only for the SC18 and the OLD Fun WON without the SC18 (blue) chassis. So, I would suggest getting the SC18 at TowerHobbies.com instead of buying the old Fun WONS since the conversion kit cost $45 to upgrade to the new SC18 Fun WON chassis.

That is why I bought the SC18 at TowerHobbies.com since I didn't want to spend the $89.95 for the Fun WON at BRPRacing.com. If I decide I want the Fun WON later I mgiht try upgrading the SC18 but at least I didn't have to pay a lot right now to get me started.

cnc137.

ok, its gonna be SC18 then. so bud, how do I get the Ferrari body? and can you post a picture of HPI Viper on your SC. TIA.

Ok a few more questions....

I race my SC18 on an indoor carpet oval, I have found that if I soak my left rear tire with red dot before the day I race and reapply it every few races (we run 1-3 minute long heats until the packs dump), the rearend doesn't come around on me. So I decided to get new tires and do away with the red dot. I will also be getting a ball diff at the same time. So I really will need a new set of rear tires so the car doesn't have a perpetual push. How does this sound---

Fronts- orange and/or blue
Left rear- Green or blue
Right rear- Blue or orange

What tires should I get, we don't run road coarses often, but with full sets I will be able to just swap tires.

Have you guys checked out the thread I posted on http://www.yourmicro.com yet?

It is located here http://pub94.ezboard.com/fmymicrofrm1.showMessage?topicID=697.topic and has some good information about Micro Vs. BRP, has 500+ views, and has been in the top 10 for almost two weeks now. I guess I stirred up some controverse over there.

cnc137. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/biggrin.gif

Speedster: Here's a link to BRP's body page:
http://www.brpracing.com/18bodypics.html
You can order #253 Ferrari right from Bud.
Most all of them will fit on Fun Wons too, even the wedge.

http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/wedge1.jpg

[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 12-21-2001).]

I just got DA Bug yesterday and put her together. Everything went pretty easily and am impressed so far. I have a question for you guys though.

I noticed that the rear track isn't equal from the center to the outside of each wheel. When measuring from the center of the rear chassis above the engine, the distance is longer to the outside of the right wheel than to the left wheel. Seems like this would make the car turn much sharper to the left than right. Is this supposed to be this way or am I missing something? Any help would be appreciated.