Yes, what you said sounds right. Hope all goes well.

RAZ: Sounds like you've got the idea, I do have a few suggestions. Mount your servo last. Then you can hook up all the wires and the battery and center your servo. You need to have the steering trim set in the middle before you mount the arm that the tie rod hooks to. That way it will be straight up when your radio is on and trim is in middle. I also suggest you buy a "servo saver" made by Kimborough #114 it replaces the arm on the servo that the tie rod hooks to. There's a spring inside it that "gives" alittle when you hit something and protects the servos gears. It's cheap insurance for $4.00.
More 1/18 Scale Pit Tips/ (http://homepages.about.com/k1m/pittips/)

http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/wavingflag.gif

O.k. guys, I need to charge the battery pack and don't have a dropping bulb yet. I run timed chargers like the Hobbico 900. What is the best way to bo this until I receive my dropping bulb ? Do I put it on the charger for 5 min. and let it trickle charge the rest or trickle charge the whole pack ? How long would you trickle the pakc ?
Thanks so much , you guys are the ticket ! I just wish I had someone that lived near me that was experienced in this racing. We don't have any central Iowa racers that read this board do we ?
Thanks again,
Raz

O,K, Guys I got the BRP together and trickle charged the battery pack. I am running it around the livingroom floor as I type and under hard acceleration and corning I am getting rearend wheel hop. I don't even have to be turning and when I get on it ( which doesn't take very much) it wheel hops to beat heck. The only way to get it not to do this is to take off slow. Any suggestions ?

BTW the Futaba ESC works just fine on 4 cells, and I can imagine what these little guys act like on 6 ! YYEEEHHHAAAWWW !

Raz loosen up the rear pod to allow it to move more freely, mine does the same thing until I do, Next on my list will be the ball diff...... which will eliminate that problem.....

Bud how was the racing at the Dive shop? Rich and Dave got home after 11, much to late for this old man! I am going to the Brat on Sunday.

The second week of racing at Racer's Edge ended with Don in 1st place with 30 laps. His BuRP was sporting the new Vette body that made it look even faster. Hope to be able to post a pic of it here soon...It's really a knockout! His new 52t spur gear was an improvement also, as I was able to catch up to him several times but just couldn't make the pass. I came in 2nd with Johna close behind in 3rd in the 10 car field. I like running 10 at once but can't help but think some of the newer racers would rather run 2 mains. Fierce bumping and rubbing is common, but Ovalman gets my vote for "best clean hack" for stuffing me into the pipe on the fastest part of the course. It's all just for fun though, and belive me it's gonna be fun showing him why they call my body "Da Wedge"!! http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/biggrin.gif http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/biggrin.gif http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/biggrin.gif

Perfectly clean hack........ http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/biggrin.gif http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/biggrin.gif I'm MORE than sure I have one coming now when I least expect it. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/wink.gif

Anyone that visits our results page this week at Racers Edge R/C Racing and Hobbies (http://users.penn.com/~morg/track.html) will see that our BuRP class was the largest class out of the ones we run. A true testament to just how fun these little cars are!

So,
is there something wrong with my car, I get all kinds of wheel hop under hard acceleration and turning ? I have tightened up the rear and loosened up the rear to the point at where I have removed the top spring and collar. Nothing seems to help.
How does everone else cure this problem ?
Thanks,
Raz

Raz, check the white plastic washers on the damper post. They should move freely, but with no slop. If they are sticking, try holding them at a angle and moving them up and down on post until free. If they are still sticking you will need to very carefully remove some material from the washers. I find a sharp body reamer works the best for this. Good luck and may the BRP gods smile on you. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif

Had a great race day! If there were a tad less traffic, I'd of owned that record!! You're goin' down K1m!!! An' I'll get that rollin' Ovalman too! 8^)

To get a peek at my new C.V. body, check out Ovalman's site, click on the Pictures link. It'll be the next to last link.

L8R

Hehehe! Come on now Don....you been sniffin' that Paragon again? Don't be shy....put it's pic right up here! It's too pretty to miss!

[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 11-13-2001).]

K1M do you have any of those 52t spur gears. I finished my other one off on Sunday.

Don's SC FunWon Vette
http://olympia.fortunecity.com/bannister/128/vette.jpg

Jason: I have one left.They come with an oil lite bushing instead of plastic and a new set of balls.

Boy it's a good thing somebody brought his camera to the track Sunday huh? http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/tongue.gif Have to admit, Donalbain did do one heck of a job on that new body.

K1M, hmmmm, guess it will work posted from there. I didn't figure it would.

How much is it?

TangTester are you racing at the Brat on Sunday? Your 17 to 18 years of experience will come in handy. You can use it to help unload the trailer and set up the track. Get there early.Remember all of the racing youth look up to thier heroes.

2Sloow & Bud: What charge rate do you guys at the Brat charge your AA's? Have you guys been running NiCAD's or NiMH batterys and do you run them more than once/day?
Jason: six bux

k1m I charge at 2 1/2 to 3 amps and peak at 4. I have a pack for each race. I did try running 1 pack all day but noticed a drop off by the end of the day. I run the 700 nicads . I bought a pack of the 1600 nmhs but the speed is the same. I use them for practice and goofing around. I am not that competitive but I enjoy this class. Bud, MR PARMA, TangTester and a few others are very good.We are expecting to have 30 + drivers after the Indoor Champs.A lot of older drivers like these cars as well as the beginers.Bud rents out a few cars each week and people line up to get one. Bud also knocks the rental fee off the purchase price off a kit.Good deal for the renter.

I was out last night and tonight with the SC18 for the first times. I went out to a basketball court and swept it off really good. This is 2 year old cement. Well, I couldn't get any traction what so ever. What is your guy's special tricks to running these on cement ? It was like running on ice, well from what I can see these things will scoot.
Does the cement have to be the rough surface type, as the BB court was the semi smooth surface.
What is your trick for racing one cement ?
Thanks,
Speedy

K1m:: I have been charging the 700 ni cads at 1.5 to 2 amps, We have lots of time between races and it seems like they have higher voltage charged at the lower rate. I also use 3 packs,the one from the first heat is discharged let to cool and then charged for the main. If you run one pack all day and are racing you will notice a drop off in speed. I had tryed some ni metal sanyo cells with no speed difference but was able to run 22 min. on one charge.
Raz::: You need to have some rougness in the suface, ashphalt that is smooth and clean bites great. Sounds like you were on some real smooth concrete, They will run OK on that surface but you basicly have to damp mop it so there is no dust and clean the tires good. I love to run a slick surface so you can slide car around but it takes some skill.
2slow00 :::: I will be at the brat sunday see you there http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif

Bud: Thanx, I've been charging the NiMH "Kryptonites" at .75A because they seem to like that better, but I'm going to try a higher rate on my NiCad packs to see if their Voltage comes up.

Raz: From the sound of your last few posts it sounds like your BuRP is loose. First of all, are you running the orange/blue tires on front and blue on rear? Next, are you running the optional ball diff? If you're going to race or run it on slippery surfaces that will help alot. If you have the diff, have you checked TWEAK? Have you got the T-plate pivot screw adjusted right?
If you've gone over all these and still aren't getting any traction, you must be trying to run on a pretty slippery surface. These things run on a rail on carpet especially on 4 cells, on smooth cement, you may have to use some throttle control, but not much.
More 1/18 Scale Pit Tips (http://homepages.about.com/k1m/pittips/)

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BRP-MADE IN THE USA

Went to Menards tonight and got some roofing felt. Too bad it is only around 3 foot wide. Has anyone ever raced on this and how did it hold up ? I got the 30 # heavy duty weight stuff. I was planning on cutting it off lengthwise and then using wide masking tape to tape it together. Remember, I have to remove this after every night of racing so it can't be a permanent setup :-( . I rubbed on this stuff to see if it would turn my hands black and it did not when I tried it. Does it rub off on thing eventually ?
Just need some advice on this type of track. What size of track would be a good size for a limit of 5 cars a race ?
Thanks so much for all your help recently guys,
Raz

Just me again, I was wondering if you guys had a chatroom you hung out in on your spare time ?
Thanks again,
Raz

I was just wondering if you guys had a chatroom you hung out in when you had spare time ?
Thanks,
Raz

Another great day of BRP racing at the Brat. 15 entries this week.Not a bad turnout with so many racers in Toledo. Bud won the A followed by TangTester. Bud and Len thanks for all the help.

Hey all I just got my car together last night and man is it fun. I made a battery pack out of 6 1200 NI-Mhs and charged them at 3 amps and thay got realy warm. What are you all charging them at? Do yours Get warm? Can anyone explain the moter break-in with a glass of water to me? Thanks for the help.

[This message has been edited by nitrorod (edited 11-20-2001).]

nitro.......whoa 3 amps with NiMHs? We have been charging ours at .75-1 amp. Takes a little longer but they stay pretty cool.

Water dip: Fill a glass enough to cover your motor when dipped in it (about half way will do). Hook a 2 cell pack of AAs to your motor and dunk in the water for 20 seconds. Take the motor out and see if your brushes are broken in. Repeat if necassary. When broken in, spray out motor thoroughly with motor spray to prevent oxidation. Your done. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif

NEWS FLASH: K1M breaks track record! Yes that's right, he came, he saw, he whooped our............well you know. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/biggrin.gif Great run Kim, 31/5:04.61 over Donalbain and myself (28 laps each). Looks like we're still playing catchup to you this year. Didn't get in any good clean hacks yesterday though, I'm disappointed. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/biggrin.gif http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/biggrin.gif

Our count was down alittle this week - eight I think - but there was still action in nearly every turn. In the first heat, I got tangled up on the backstretch once, and my car was so close to the inside barrier that I couldn't see it. I tried forward & reverse but it was still out of sight. I could see the turn marshalls just looking at it so I just held the throttle down and finally it popped out into turn 4 where I could see it. It must have rode the wall all the way to the turn! Gonna have to try and remember to stay out of the "dead zone".
Da Wedge handles like a dream....the 52/7 gears make the motor run cool and FAST, even with new tires. As the tires wear I plan on going to 52/8.
And what a sight the drivers of the BuRPs make! Young and old, male and female, big and small, all with giant smiles on their faces! Maybe we should take a group shot to post, Rick. Sure wish I had one of those spiffy BRP t-shirts though! Hehehehe!

More 1/18 Scale Pit Tips (http://homepages.about.com/k1m/pittips/)

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The turn out was down some at the last NORCAR race, we had 16 racers. I think it is due to the holiday this week. I tryed some new T plates that have the center removed between the two center holes. This will give the chassis more for and aft flex. which will get rid of some wheel hop on the high bite tracks. I should have it on the web site first of next month.
We have the biggest race in the world this weekend in Cleveland the US Indoor champs, so I'll be there sellin BRP stuff and getting more racers interested in the SC18 http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif

Has anyone used a Nova 18 ESC in a BRP and how did it work ?

Happy Thanksgiving everyone ! Eat up, you know you have had enough when you can't bend down to put the BRP on the track ! :-)

I guess there is a Nova 8 also.
Thanks,
Raz

What happened to all the replies we were getting here guys?

Anyway.......we had a full field of ten BuRPs again this week and our track record holder (K1M) took the week off! He let the rest of us see if we could break his record while he ran the mic as commentator. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif The closest anybody got was KSG with a 29 lap run in the main. He was followed across the line by Jason with the older Fun Wons chassis so we know the old can still be competitive with the new.

Bud are you ready to get back in the BRP groove after watching all the rockets at the Champs?

Oval,
I was wondering about the replies also, A month ago, the replies were almost instant. Now they are almost extinct.
Does anyone want to startup a chatroom, if not , I would like to chat with some BRPers on AOL instant messenger Username: RazBarlow.
Thanks,
Raz

Things were slow here because most in our area were at the Indoor champs. Almost every BRP driver races another class.It wil pick up soon.

2sloww00
Missed seeing you at the big race. Hope you feel better http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif Sales were good sold 6 more kits maybe 4 to local guys. We should have a good turnout for BRPs sunday!!!! SEE YA!!
I also just got a new Horizon flyer Hardcore racing is making Ti Chassis for the other little car if you buy all the parts and the alum wheels it comes to about $260.00 WOW you could have a fleet of BURP cars just for what the chassis parts cost. HPI does have some new pinions that set screw on 8 tooth to 13 tooth $5.00 each but the way they do stuff you will not be able to get them till next year more than likely. Wonder if you get a wrench with them or if that cost extra http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif

Bud I'm feeling a lot better than last week but its still hanging on. I plan on being there Sunday. We will have to take the BRP's to Toledo during the off weeks at the Brat. I'll get your 2 cells tomorrow and pick up Sporty's order.

This weeks BurP racing was almost as much fun just to watch! Man, 10 of those little cars scattered over the road course is really a sight! There's wheel to wheel racing going on in one turn and nothing but slaming and banging going on in the next turn, so it's not only a blast - it's a challange to pilot a BuRP through all the carnage. Congratulations Kanesurfguru! Once he gets control of Da Purple Bug he's going to be tough. Kryptonite POWER!!
Jason did very well also in second, he's still running the old chassis.
Ovalman: maybe your radio trouble and Laura's is related? Just a thought.

Here's what it looked like in the 1st turn of the BuRP race: http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/biggrin.gif
http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/Brpstart.jpg



[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 11-27-2001).]

[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 11-27-2001).]

Thanks 2slow00, If you could I am also going to need some of those connector that you had on yours. See you on sunday. I am ready to race!!!!

I'll hook you up TangTester.How did you do at the Champs?

I would like to chat with guys who have a track or have been to a track that runs on roofing felt. Please email me or chat with me on AOL IM username RazBarlow

TangTester and Bud. I picked up the items from Areo Tech. See you Sunday.Bud please bring some extra nylon body nuts and rear body posts.Thanks

So guys,
Since I am fairly new to this. What are the main wearing components on the Fun Ones and the SC18 ? What parts should a guy stock up on ?
Thanks,
Raz

Raz, I haven't broken any parts yet on my SC18.(knock on wood) I keep dropping the nylon nuts and can't see them on the floor.I guess I'll dye some. I also glued the adjusting nuts on the rear body posts and need others when I change bodies.My first Vette body ripped when I scraped a board. This was my fault. I don't think anyone at our track has any unusual problems.

RAZ:
<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by k1m:
Something that everyone that runs a BRP should check regularly is the left rear axle bushing. It wears alot quicker than the others and it's critical for keeping your spur/pinion gear mesh set. Even if there isn't much play in the bushing, make sure the bushing isn't turning in the motor plate. If it is, clean it with motor spray and then glue a new bushing in place with 2 drops of super glue. Be sure to have the axle spinning freely in the bushings to be sure they're lined up before you glue them to the motor plate.</font>

Today after racing and being annoyed at the severe oversteer from my straight axle...I got a flash of genius (or insanity).... Thinking back to my days of fiddling with go-karts I though...hmmmm....they where only pushed by on tire in the rear, and handled fairly well... so I got to work (after eating supper) and after am hour of assemly in my work shop (our bedrood) I pulled my SC out with a newly designed rear end. From prelimenary tests (on our kitchen floor...which my SC liked to spin on alot) the car seems to work aloy better!!!! The car now has an extremely neutral feel, which should translate into a slight push on the carpet we race on. This shouldn't be a problem because I had my steering turned down to approvimately 20 percent!!! so adding a little is not a problem...

SO far--
Pros
- Inexpensive, costs me less than 1 cent as I had all the parts laying around.
- No wheel hop, bath wheels can spin at different speeds in the turns.
- Less rotating weight, the car should accelerate faster due to the fact that the motor has to turn almost 1/2 less weight on the rear axle.
CONS
- Non adjustable, unlike the ball diff the rear end cannot be adjusted.
- possible torque steer during acceleration, due to only one wheel doing all the pushing, this has not been seen during my breif test, but the possibilty is there, I will report.

Tommorrow I will test it out on the carpet and report back, if all goes well I will be assembling one for my brother and I will take pics and figure up a parts list to help others out.....

[This message has been edited by Impactplayr (edited 12-02-2001).]

Impactplayer: I say go for it. Who knows what you can come up with by trying different setups. Let us know how it works. Give the ball diff a try if your one wheel drive doesn't work out, it works pretty well.

Today's BuRP races were even more competitive than usual. With 11 racers today, we ran 5 in one heat and 6 in the other. The first heat was dominated by a substitute driver, breaking the track record while driving his wifes SC18. Kris, who's no stranger to the road course, drove that Ferrari to a 32 lap run! Kris' influence seemed to set the pace as everyone ran fast today. He pushed me to bump up the record alittle higher on a 32 lap pace too. He was right behind me with 32 laps, then John(KSG)and Don with 31 laps and Rick and Joy with 30 laps. Quite a 30 lap club!
I hope Santa brings Kris a SC Fun Won for Christmas! http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/biggrin.gif

22 BRP cars at the Brat today.A,B,and C mains. TangTester was flying low winning the A with 30 laps. Bud TQed with 31 laps.Great turnout 8 in the A, 8 in the B,and 6 in the C. A lot of new drivers.30+ soon Bud!

Hey 2slow00,
Thanks for the batteries, I ran your pack in the main. The car was really good, had good speed and great handling. I just kept my nose clean through the race and it came to me.