Check a hobby shop, they should have a Sport with ESC. This system will fit into the SC18 BUD's car.

Mini T radio will not work unless you use the Mini T steering servo also.

well by reading more into this little car, if standard servos, recievers, and esc's fit. this is looking better all the time. With them needing radios already, I think the idea of the sport radio w/ electronics looks like the way to go. My electronics will be all 1/10 size stuff, heck we will all be on a level playing field. There is plenty of time to get them talked into the mini size equipment once I get them hooked on racing, hehe. Thanks for all your feedback.

David

Thats a good radio to start with , but you will find that having indvidual end point adjustments on the steering servo is a must , because without you'll notice the front wheel comes in contact with the chassis . Turning down the dual rate will stop the wheel from hitting , but now you have limited steering the other way. :eek:

I was thinking about that new 2pl from futaba. Radio,servo,and mc230 combo for $89. Any opinions?

or maybe just the radio and servo for $62. since that esc is kind of heavy.

I'd say it's an excellent choice. The 2PL works great and has all the bells & whistles needed for all but the most serious of racers. Same goes for the MC230, it's tiny and tough....we have several and have been very happy with them. If anything, I might opt for a micro servo and a good servo saver.

Since the MC230 goes for $40-50 alone, I would consider that a steal for a computerized 10 memory radio, even on AM band. All you would want is the micro servo (metal geared preferred) & servo saver to trim the weight some and you are set. The RJ142 receiver is smaller than the 122 it replaced and the MC230 works great. The wires really add to the weight. They are pre-installed.

The new Futaba synthesized 3-channel FM radio is going to put pressure on Airtronics and Novak because of it's pricing...

I'll vouch 100% for the performance, durability and value of the BRP cars! The mc230 speedo is also excellent!
vn1500: what you say about the unequal steering is true but it can be fixed by changing the angle of the servo saver at neutral. If you fiddle with it enough you can get it pretty close to even, even without end point adjustments. (It's the same as how an airplane aileron can be set up for 'differential throw' mechanically (as opposed to electroically).

MY EXCITING NEWS: I just finished building a wooden banked oval track in my garage for 1/18 cars!!! WOW!!!! FUN!!!! It's 20 feet from end to end and 8 feet across. Today I resurfaced it with asphalt undercoating in a quest for traction. I'll post some pix soon.

BUD: I think you'd better get a LTO chassis ready for me!!!
Any ideas in the works for a way to adjust front camber?? how about wedge shaped shims? Or a flexible plate that bends to provide camber (like a Bolink pan car)? I'm asking because I always like to set up my cars for even treadwear (not coning) first, and then adjust to handle.

:wave:

To get rid of uneven steering, you must have your linkage set at the right angle. Take a look at the pic and the 2 red lines on the servo horn and steering linkage. You want them as close to 90* as you can get them. Sorry for the bad pic. :drunk:

okay now what about uneven treadwear (coning)??????????????????????????

To get rid of uneven steering, you must have your linkage set at the right angle. Take a look at the pic and the 2 red lines on the servo horn and steering linkage. You want them as close to 90* as you can get them. Sorry for the bad pic. :drunk:

Another alternative to angling over the servo horn is to raise the point on the steering knuckle where the servo link drives the arm... then you
have the 90 degree angle as well.

Good luck, RCNerd..rented track? Any info you can get on that would be interesting. I've looked at several, but never raced on one. The ones I've seen were quite small, more for mini-Z cars.


Well, it turned out that the rental track sucked (it's used for anemic 1/10 pan cars) since the banked oval's corners were made of flat panels......

here is what a lap sounded like:

VVVVRRRRROOOOOMMM...whap, whap whap whap whap whap VVVRRRPOOOMMM...whap whap whap whap!

you get the idea.....BUT>>>>>

the crappy rental inspired me to build a banked oval in my garage which is awesome!!! It's 20 ft from end to end and 8 ft across. it is banked all of the way around and coated with frubberized undercoating. I would post pix but my buddy CHIPS saw it and vowed to perfect the design using his far supierior construction skills. I will post pix of garage oval V2.


So I thought of a way to adjust camber on the BRP I'm wondering if it's been tried:If the front kingpins were 1/8 " taller, you could tie them together with a tie rod/turnbuckle under the e-clips, which could then be tightened, to angle the tops of the kingpins in slightly by flexing the chassis......

Any thoughts??

Looking forward to pix of garage oval v2, rcnerd...

In the meantime here's a pic and link to portable mini tracks made in Toronto, Canada.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3177710056#ebayphotohosting

http://images.andale.com/f2/107/125/7386138/click2enlarge/1054653420870_overhead_20_chicane.jpg

Well my 1st sc18 is going to be on its way, before I start purchasing batts. What am I going to find that the battery of choice will be, 4 or 6 cell? Any Ideas, will just be some of us locals bashing around for fun, but hate to start them out getting 4 cell, when we find out we just gotta have the 6's afterall. Any one also have any links to sights that sell Ozite carpet, or something equivalent to. Saw a sight that they used roofing tar paper? This might have been for a smaller scale? My options so far will be. An old tennis cort ( will I find this surface too smooth ), newly poored concrete drive around City pool ( might work if broomed enough), or either choice with temp carpet surface put down.

David

David: Everyone that I know that races, uses 6 cells. 4-5 cells is good for tight places. As long as everone runs the same it will be fun. Tennis courts work pretty well if they're smooth. Stay away from the pool unless it's empty! Concrete is usually pretty slick no matter how clean you get it, throttle control becomes a must. Asphalt thats not sealed works about the best around here. The carpet is the answer for sure, a nice smooth area is all you'll need.

Is everyone going with the bigger motor on these little cars? And is this the 16d motor Bud has in his Flyer?

Most everyone runs stock class and uses the Tuned motor from Bud. Around here Stock BRP is very popular and it is ran with 6 cell packs of NiMH or NiCd and the tuned or stock motor. Most change the brushes to the Gold Dust Pro brushes and stock springs or light weight springs by Champion are fine.
XP magnets in Bud's tuned motor lower current draw and the motor runs cooler and longer.

Many modified class drivers on road course drivers chose to use a hotter S16D slot car motor. Depending on the track of course... Oval racing lends itself to the Speed 300 6V/Big Block/Peak Chubby/Wattage 370/etc. motor. The Mabuchi 370
motor (same thing, who the previous Speed 300 sized motors are made by...) is very much like a turbo motor and the ebb and flow of power is difficult to use and the power for the high ATV has to be turned down to 75-80% of max to make it driveable. Even then you are dealing with wheel hop and other handling issues.

Some have played with the Bruiser arm in 32 or 36 degree timing or the Parma American wound 38 degree arm. The Bruiser is a very high torque arm with small air gap because of the larger armature. This causes the motor to slow a little faster and it has great torque and better braking than the stock motor.
Which by the way, the Speed 300 has next to NO brakes...makes it more of a challenge since off throttle is very diffierent than stock motors or even 10th scale.
The stock motor has 25 degrees of timing and is a chinese wound arm. The American made arms are of better quality and a 25 degree American made arm will out perform the 25 degree Chinese made arm. The quality of the wind is better and has much better power.

RJR, Pro-Slot, and Fast Ones are all good names in arms. Fast Ones is a smaller company whereas the RJR is more of a large company. Both RJR and Fast Ones offer a Bruiser S16D arm. The Bruiser Arms do have a shorter shaft at the top which poses challenges for pressing pinions on the motor.

My $0.10 worth on the topic...

sounds like you covered everything just fine. Thanks for your time.

David

David: You've been RAFster'd !
:tongue:

RAFster: Do you think the Wattage 370 comes in a 7.2v and a 6v model?
The Wattage motors I've got from Hobby People are only $10 but they don't give much info:
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/131350.asp

They only come 6v.

I sure wish one of those K3 motors would come to my house!

Me too!

They will be there soon enough!

As a side note, the Krystal 3 motors are 6v.

I seen earlyer some conversations about tracks, I have one over here in LaGrange IN, its a 240ft (center line 1 lap) banked concrete called Schoolyard Speedway.
It has been compaired by 1/8th & 1/10th scale drivers as well as nicknamed Little darlington, but the 1/18th scale drivers call it super Daytona.
We are discussing the possabilitys of hosting the 1/18th scale stock concrete oval Indiana state championship race.
But a driver wouldnt have to live in Indiana to race the race. ;)
Check out our site and info at www.rcspeedway.net and think about it, also I would welcome suggestions based on what I have described the class to be.
Tech bench check points and such.

Tht track looks a bit large for box stock 1/18 racing.

Well it has its own challanges ;)
Just floor it had get the best line... I have been playing with the speed 300 out there in a SC-18 and in a sc18 LTO Funones and they are a REAL handfull.. I was chasing a TC3 and a RC10GT+ RTR and keeping up untill a tiny mistake and well you can guess what it was like... SCREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEeeeeeeeeee BOOM, tumble tumble flip and ssssssss. But its fun and the look of a spectators jaw on the ground. :)
But yea its it has size.. its the largest banked concrete oval in the state not counting the Indi veladrome... but that is a bike track and the RC racing there is ?? once a month or every other month.. and just pancars as far as I know.
Hmmm the box stock is not really a proper descrip, Gearing can be changed and some stuff on the RC.. like as a example.. on the BRP SC-18 the foams work out here and when a person glues on a piece of a inner tube to make it a capped tire then foam compound dont seem to matter.
With my SC-18 Funones I turned a 7.78 and got 29 laps in a 4 min race & with the oval outlaws (small foams) I still got 29 laps but a bit slower lap time.
The funones was a rental I had still left over from my capet track befor I sold it.
This is a big track but a full feild of 10 drivers out there is a blast. ;)

Have a fellow Novice racer that has purchased a Tower Hobbies #400 Quick charger. We are running BRP 1/18th scale with 6cell AA. I see this charger is just a timed charger with an AMP charge rate of 2.5-2.7 for 30 min. This will cook these AA cells won't it? I really wish he would have got with me before he purchased. Let me know what you think on this, I would hate for him to bake his new batts that are on there way.

David

We charge our AA's at 2.5 amp's....Bud does have a "dropping bulb" see:

http://www.brpracing.com/450.html

I noticed that he had a "dropping bulb" on his web sight. But you say you ARE charging at 2.5 amp's. I blew a cell charging at 1.5 amps when I first got set up with my BRP. Granted they are not top of the line batts. China specials 1600 NIMHs, I am finally just now creeping back up to 1.0 amps on my charger, thought maybe the first couple of charges, you need be easy on them?!?! Have not had a bad cell so far. Are the Sanyos pretty bullet proof? Thanks for your reply, I might end up having him get one of those dropping Bulbs, what will this make the final Amp rate be, from 2.5 or so.
Dave

2.5A charge rate on a NiCd isn't outrageous if they are high capacity NiCd but, generally NiMH cells wouldn't be charged at that high a rate. Generally 1.5X the NiMH capacity is the most I'd recommend. I don't know if the KANs like high charge rates given their capacity to discharge at very high rates.

Sorry, I should have asked what type of cells you were charging. I just assumed that you were using BRP packs. NiCd is what we use (Bud's Sanyo's) and charge them at 2.5A. I do have a few packs of NiMH that I charge at 1A. Our testing has shown that the BRP packs AA are the best to date....

I need to get some nicads for racing, I think I will like the punch they will provide, but for now, I am just cruising around trying to get my novice driver up to speed. And no need to beat the charging topic to death. After I posted I searched old threads and found a big battle between how to care for batts. We don't need all that coming back up. Thanks agian for the info.

Dave

MPI has some AA 1100ma nicd cells that I have had supper luck with... I charge em at 1.5 with a MRC 959 and get 25min run time with stock BRP/Parma/9t pinion & 45t spur (stock in box).
I have been running em in the car for 3 months (never removed em) I just re-peak them and use the (BRP) droping bulb after a nights/days run.
The nick name for em here is Green Meanies... the stock # for MPI is AAU1000 and they come with or without tabs.
I have run em against sanyo 700 & 900ma bats and they did verry well, also against the 2300ma nimd they had more punch for 6 min of a 8 min run... but the higher ma of the nmhd provided the longer run time and provided a overall better performance in a 8 min race.... but in a 4 min heat & 5 min main the nickle metals where no advantage over the ni cads.
The MRC 959 has dif settings in its menu but I just poke the button untill it says 1.5 and hit the start... I have not been disipointed yet using the (green Meanies) yet.

Ohh I failed to mention that the nickle metals that I have played with have the label of " Titanium 2300 " and I charged them at 1 amp and ??? what ever the default of the MRC 959 charger... the bats got warm and took awhile... but did seem decent.. they are also .. HMMmmm.. well lets say cost effecient at less than $2 per cell and provided a bit over 30 min runtime on a stock BRP (parma 16d) motor. With a Groupner Speed 300 (big block mod) they got around 15 min using the mentioned box stock gearing ( 9t pinion & 45t spur) on the out of box SC-18 BRP.
Just a little manna for the avid 1/18 scale drivers I have learned here... from what I have experianced at my tracks.. as well as what I personaly do or have seen done.

I have read in the past about these " Green Meanies", I was wondering what they were. Thanks for clearing this up. I will see if I can track some down. Give yourself an Atta-boy for the day. Now off to look for MPI?

Would these be Maxx Products International, Inc. Sanyo KR-1100AAU? around $3 a cell.

http://www.unipros.com/cbpsite/loosecells.asp?session_id=149430
KR1650AAU not currently in stock but same type of cell. KAN has a new
AA NiMH cell...sounds like it may be a option if the quality is good.

David
RAFster

Yep its from Maxx Products... Hmm they dont say sanyo on em.. they are covered with a green shrink tube and are les than $3 per cell when I last bought em.
I have excelent luck with them. ;)

Does anyone have some pinion pullers to sell for the BRP Parma motors?
Mine broke. :( Somone told me that there is a combo gizmo that also presses them back on... sounds like a winner to me, but cant find em anywhere Im looking.
Thanks
www.rcspeedway.net

I got mine at:

http://www.ncphobbies.com/

Search for puller. The Ninco one is the combination puller.

The Parma Press is good for BRPs, since it lets you press pinions on installed motors. Many of the presses, including Ninco, don't have clearance to fit around the pod.

Stay far away from the Summit brand of press as it looks like the modified C clamp design from Parma, but their's is pretty ugly as it has some quality problems.

Slot Car City carries the Lucky Bob press and it looks like a good one. I don't know if you can press a pinion on a motor that is already installed in the pod.
I doubt it has the depth on the throat.

RAFster

Thanks for the info drivers. :) it is apreciated... I looked all over around here and ddint find a thing... I made one but it really leaves a lot to be desired.
The one that broke I dont even rem wheere I got it.. it was ok and got a lot of use ( I was the only one here to have 1) but somone didnt have it correctly centered on the com shaft and was hooked on the pinion... and well a couple small turns it was bent and I tryed to straten it.... it snapped off.
As far as a press... I rigged a real small vise and it works well but I know there is a better way and a lighter assy to carry around.
Thanks again. ;)
Wehn you folks go to a track to run 1/18th scale... do they always split the class of the BRP's into Funones and sc-18s or run em together?
Also what is the perfered way to run other manufactured models... here there is just a couple of the Losi mini T and well they get the honors of picking up the rear of the pack running 6 cell packs. 1 driver just got a X-ray so dont know what to expect of it and the HPI micro was here just once and gave up after 1 practice run when out there with the buds cars ona play/practice day.
We did a LOT of re serfacing the speedway here so the 1/18th can run on the concrete.. on the carpet Buds cars dominated and so far on the concrete its shapeing up the same way... but just wondered what others are doing in this area.

FUN WONS & SC-18S: Everyone seems to just run them together. The folks in PA seem to like the big wheels better; here in NE Ohio, we mostly see the SCs. I seem to recall them saying that the big wheels help with bumpy tracks.

Mini-Ts are definitely separated from the BRPs.

Up here, we don't see much of other brands, but RAFster may have some information about that competition; they seem to be more popular in central Ohio.

The best puller I have seen or found is the Hudy and FasTrak Hobbies in Newark carries it. Call Mike at FasTrack and ask him to ship you one along with the Parma press. He generally has one in stock of both. His price on the Hudy puller is better than most, around $10 to $12 and the Parma press expect to pay $9. FasTrak's number is (740)349-0560 fax (740)349-0756 they are open Wed-Sat 12-9PM and Sun. 12-6PM
The Champion puller has a replacement screw if you have that brand of puller...

Mike Collins replied to a little baiting I did to him on the Dayton area thread regarding CORCAR and the like. He mentioned the M18 and its weaknesses.
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=84609

The only M18 I've witnessed racing was rolling pretty good in the corners, but it appeared to handle much better than most Micros. It was at the Fairgrounds race in March on carpet.

The Micros here generallly dominate unless Bill S. is racing. We have some good Micro drivers, but they haven't held a candle to Bud or Don S. and many other good BRP drivers.
Me, I'm a pushover; not a real good driver most of the time.

David

Somone said "Tht track looks a bit large for box stock 1/18 racing."
------------------------------------------------------------------
Race Results for
Stock Electro 1/18th
FOR RACE DATE 6/12/04
DRIVER LAPS Heats Won Feature
Elva Miller 26 0 1st PLACE
Pat Lowe 26 1 2nd PLACE
Ed Curtis 25 0 3rd PLACE
Phile Wright 22 0 4th PLACE
Dave Bryan 19 0 5th PLACE
Kevin Stahl -- TQ 7.76 DNF 1 6th PLACE
Cody Fairchild DNF 0 7th PLACE
Nick McCoy DNR
Brandon Greer DNR
Tye Austin DNR
John Cummins DNR
------------------------------------------------------------------------
We had a few tonight. ;) Even had MY record broke.. and I crashed and broke a wire as well as the TQ driver. It was still fun and also our biggest class this last Saturday. :)

Hello, Everyone,

It's Bonnie, Dick's wife. Just wanted to let all of you know that Richard is fully awake and talking now. We thought he was not going to make it but has done a complete turn around. It may take him a while to get home but at least now he will be coming home.

Thanks for all the cards he received in the ICU Unit, HE LOVED THEM and started to cry when he found out you folks had thought about him.

I'll keep you posted and let you know how he is doing.

Thanks again for the prayers and cards,
Bonnie Oettinger

Bonnie let us know when he is up to phone calls. Tell him Ben and I say hello again.
Don Deutsch

Bonnie,

Thanks for the update.
I'm glad to hear that he has made the turnaround.
We would really hate to lose him as I know you guys
would as well.

Tell him David, Jonathan and Jessica said hi and keep
us updated as much as you can. Thanks again!

David
RAFster

Bonnie:

Let him know the Sugar Grove gang have him in thoughts and prayers.

Andy

what the hell....givem 10 amps!

I've found a free material for portable track barriers if you are running your cars on carpet. Drive around to carpet stores and ask for the cardboard tubes that the carpet and vinyl come on. They don't always have them, but I have been collecting them, cutting them in two with a jig saw lengthwise and trimming each end so that there is a tab on top and drilling a 3/8th inch hole and inserting a bolt to hold them together. I've cut 3', 4', 6' and 8' sections and combine them for corners. The cars do not get damaged when colliding with the barrier although they will go over them sometimes.