Where is the cheapest place you know to get the KAN1050 cells and what size are the KAN1050s?
Thanks!

They are about 1mm longer than the other 2/3a cells. he cells are somewhere around $2.25. If you like I can get you some packs of them.

They are about 1mm longer than the other 2/3a cells. he cells are somewhere around $2.25. If you like I can get you some packs of them.

I'm not familar with the "He cells" are these the Powerizer MH-2/3A cells? I've got the older MH-2/3A1000 cells. They are OK.
The GE-Sanyo 1.25V NiCd AA batteries have very good performance. They are what most of the Cleveland area BRP racers are using.

Are you able to get the "He cells" or KAN 1050 cells?

I can get both but the KAN cells are actually better and less expensive than the Hecells. ProMatch Racing is a large distributor of the Hecells. You can truly see the performance gains when using the KAN cells. They have a lower internal resistance, better runtime and have a higher average voltage. I have done testing on many 2/3a cells and these are the KAN 1050 cells are superior to the rest. The Hecells are second best.

ProMatched does a voltage enhancement technique to their cells. They are initially a little better than the other He Cells or Powerizer's MH cells.

I believe that all of the Hecells are "voltage enhanced." Even so they are still inferior to the Kan cells.

Did you want to try some?

i have a question for someone does anyone know where you can get the mini resitors that you used for 1/12 scale before the days of speed controls you know the light weight ones i had an idea bout useing a cheep radio with two servos in a buds car but cant find the light weight resitor controler does anyone still make them or maybe someone knows where you can buy them at a electronics place online or something

Well, this thread pops up again.......

I havn't run either of my brps since last winter....I'm thinking about them though!!!! Hopefully a new track gets started up since our old one was closed.

OKRACER: well I think you can still get a wound ceramic msc from Associated. I would also suggest a model airplane esc. They are very cheap. get at least 15amps. They have soft start (usually), and non variable braking, but work great. You could probably find one for 20-30 $$. You could also probably adapt a msc like a tamiya one to fit. (maybe) G O O D L U C K !

I think I'd go back to a 2 stick radio before I'd go back to a MSC. :(
Where there's a will there's a way though, so good luck OKracer! You should be able to find lots of those 3 step rotary MSC's that were in the old Tamiya & Kyosho rc's laying around. Maybe with a couple of mini servos you can shoe horn all of it in there.
I'd be wary of those little airplane motor ESC's though. A friend tried the Airtronic ES-01 a while ago and his 16d motor fried it in minutes!

They aren't very efficient and have lots of maintenance...The weight of two servos and all... You have to mount the rotary switch and then put a drive wire to it from the servo. All pretty bulky.
I've got a used one out of my daughter's Tamiya TL01 Ford Lightning or a new one from Tamiya from the Mini Cooper. They go for about $10.
The resistor will get cattle iron hot and Tamiya uses a little metal grill over the resistor that was mounted on the side of the car to help cool it. The real old style is a wiper arm on the resistor with 3 wires that they used in the days of the 12E and 12i cars by Associated.
It was lighter than this setup by Tamiya. They would burn out in no time.
If you want to go that route you might look at adapting a Parma resistor or other Slot Car controller for the job.
It is cheaper to pickup a Futaba MC230CR or other ESC.

Where is the cheapest place you know to get the KAN1050 cells and what size are the KAN1050s?
Thanks!

I found this place Cheap Battery Packs (www.cheapbatterypacks.com) that has the 1050 cells. I basically roasted the poor guy for false advertising on eBay in a thread here. :o :o

I'd be wary of those little airplane motor ESC's though. A friend tried the Airtronic ES-01 a while ago and his 16d motor fried it in minutes!
Sorry, but I have to step up to the defense of airplane speedos everywhere, now that their name has been sullied on these pages.

Have you ever had a good Airtronics Speedo??? I haven't. I don't know about the es01, but I can vouch for the Great planes electrify series, the Jeti escs, and the Astro Flight Esc's. All of these work great, take gruelling punishment and overloading and don't get hot unless abused. I'm running a Eletrifly 50 amp in my fast electric boat with a 6-turn Cobalt motor and it never skips a beat. The C-30 or C-20 are also9 both very good. They shut down when overloaded. The Astro stuff is phenominal. Trust me.....Any speedo that can handle a 600/05 in a plane can handle any micro motor out there. Watch out though. Many of these super high freq. escs MUST have a schottky diode or they will crater. :wave:

I'm sure there are airplane ESC's that work fine. :cool:
I haven't sullied a name in years! :lol:
I expected to hear from a stick radio user. :D

Oh Yeah....I like stick radios too......for boats and planes!! :roll:

I'm a windy old soul...I've reached 500 posts today (Aug 26th from May 2002...)

:hat: Congrats to RAFster! :hat:

That qualifies you as an "Elder Statesman" here on Hobby Talk.

p.s. notice that mine still just says RC Racer.....cause I really am an old fart and they don't have that as a choice. :eek:

Come on you guys, when you get as old as I am than you can be an old fart.Most of the people I race with are younger than my boys. I came by the grey hair honestly, my kids gave it to me.

Come on you guys, when you get as old as I am than you can be an old fart.Most of the people I race with are younger than my boys. I came by the grey hair honestly, my kids gave it to me.

Some days I feel older than you are Don... uh, should I duck after
saying something like that? :wave:

I've got grey hair too, my two kids are giving it to me. My daughter being quite sharp disagrees, she said I was just getting older and that her being here isn't the cause. Jessica's 14.75yrs old, Jonathan is 12.3 yrs old. I wonder sometimes if I'm going to let the boy live to 13... :cool: Amy says he is too much like me, that's why he drives me nuts sometimes. I'd pay someone to teach him how to take corners and that you actually have to slow down before the corner. Despite my illustrating and telling him, he still wants to hold that throttle down all the time.

Amy's dad was referred to by his kids and himself as an old fart...he passed not too long after retirement. Heart attack. He was a kind and loving father too his kids and was a simple man. He loved life and loved those around him and it was a joy to get to know him as long as I was allowed. He died before Jonathan was 3.

PLease help me sum-this all up on the best cells for the BRPSC18.

The KAN1050 cell http://www.unipros.com/battpacks/images/kan1050small.jpg

is fast unmatched and unzapped.

The HEcell http://www.kmrbatteries.com/ebay/Hecell%20Zagi%20Pack.jpg is also quite good, but it needs to be zapped to be as fast as the KAN1050??

And last question-they are all faster than the AA's?

Thanks,
Ray

The Hecells are zapped. Even so, they are not as good as the KAN cells.

Both the Hecells and KAN cells are better than AA cells. They had lower IR and an increased average voltage over the AA rechargeable cells that I tested.

PLease help me sum-this all up on the best cells for the BRPSC18.

The KAN1050 cell http://www.unipros.com/battpacks/images/kan1050small.jpg

is fast unmatched and unzapped.

The HEcell http://www.kmrbatteries.com/ebay/Hecell%20Zagi%20Pack.jpg is also quite good, but it needs to be zapped to be as fast as the KAN1050??

And last question-they are all faster than the AA's?

Thanks,
Ray

Ray,

From what I have read the KAN1050 and KAN950 (superceded by 1050) are superior to the HEcell. They are also superior to the MH2/3A1000 or MH2/3A1100 cells by Powerizer. I am uncertain
if they exceed the performance of the GE Sanyo gold and red shrinkwrapped consumer AA NiCd cells that are rated at 1.25V and 1600mAH?.

I am not aware of anyone trying the KAN cells locally and racing them against the GE-Sanyo AA cells. Most of the local racers are using the GE-Sanyo NiCd AA cells.

From what I understand on the Hecells you have to charge and discharge them several times to get them to come up to capacity initially. After that they are fine. The KAN cells are good to go and should be charged at 1.5A or less and they can provide 20A discharge rates without damage to the cells.

David

Thank you both. I have e-mailed Bud about buying a new BRP car. It only seems right I support him as he supports our track. I owned one before too (Bratenahl days). Now-whether or not I ever get to race the thing is another issue. I might go the Microracer route and build myself a portable track to run on. Maybe see if the neighbors want to have some fun running them as well.

Hey Intellengsia!

Have you tried Blind's Zapped KAN1050 cells? Are they better than the garden variety KAN1050s?

http://www.blindbatts.com/

Does the zapping lower the IR further on a NiMH cell?

What is the normal track size for these 1/18 scale racers. I mainly run 1/10 scale offroad, but I am kind of interested in starting a small fun onroad/or oval track here in my hometown. Was planning on Legends, but with everything going on there, these BRP 1/18 scale don't look too bad. And a smaller track would be even cheaper to set up. Thanks would appreciate any advice on this. David

Hey Intellengsia!

Have you tried Blind's Zapped KAN1050 cells? Are they better than the garden variety KAN1050s?

http://www.blindbatts.com/

Does the zapping lower the IR further on a NiMH cell?

To be honest with you. Due to the already low IR of the cell I do not believe that zapping will further enhance any characteristics of the cell. It will most definitely not provide any in creased performance at lower discharge rates. Perhaps with higher discharge rates you may see small increases in performance but not much.

I believe that the "zapping" is utilized as pure marketing with the KAN cells. He is providing something which his competition does not and at a reasonable cost.

I find this quite clever but the zapping is really not necessary.

One more thing, I would recommend cycling these cells a few times when you first receive the cells. After that, enjoy the performance!

What is the normal track size for these 1/18 scale racers. I mainly run 1/10 scale offroad, but I am kind of interested in starting a small fun onroad/or oval track here in my hometown. Was planning on Legends, but with everything going on there, these BRP 1/18 scale don't look too bad. And a smaller track would be even cheaper to set up. Thanks would appreciate any advice on this. David

Bud Bartos, the Man behind BRP, has a small oval/on-road course behind his shop referred to as "Da Track" it is a 25 x 50 foot oval
when ran on the outside or one pipe is put in place on the front straightaway and voila, it is a road course. The road course design being narrow and challenging. You can see pictures of "Da Track"
on the flyer for the racing season here:
http://www.brpracing.com/datrack.html

It is a fun track to race on and is wide enough on Oval for everyone to have room to pass in the corners and run 3 wide comfortably if need be... Also, you have room to pass a 2 car wreck if you are lucky enough to avoid it.

Off topic Rafster.

What is a good setup for Ozite?

Off topic Rafster.

What is a good setup for Ozite?

We generally will run a standard wear Orange front and Blue rear. Green is a little too much bite for most tracks. On a brand new track you may need Greens or just dope the entire rear tire.

We typically didn't need more than a band about 3/16" wide on the front in stock but the mod (Speed 300) needed more. The rear tire was doped to suit your driving and conditions.

Generally a standard set of Orange and Blues would last for almost the entire winter season running from October through March with about 3 or 4 weekends off in that time for holidays and the like. The front tires will wear to a slight cone shape but they won't wear completely out and traction in the corners will be better. Since the front suspension can't adjust the camber/caster...

Also, the high flex Tplate is needed on the SC18 for bumpy tracks; we generally use it all the time any more...

Well-my BRP is on order. I am excited. Too bad the bodies gonna be painted white on white!!! haha. OH-wait-that'd be stealing SG1's color scheme. OK-How about neon yellow on neon yellow!!!

Hey Rafster,

Since the track is small it will give me a chance to try out that Big Bruiser motor.

The carpet is new, smooth ozite, besides the tires, should I tighten the roll springs on the chassis, as well as the rear t-plate?
Do yu think that I should throw a black spring for the vcs on there also?

Thanks again.

Keep the setup loose like for outdoors. If you put a spring on it you will get more steering.

Gotcha,

Ok, I will give it a try.

Well-my BRP is on order. I am excited. Too bad the bodies gonna be painted white on white!!! haha. OH-wait-that'd be stealing SG1's color scheme. OK-How about neon yellow on neon yellow!!!

Last body I saw SG1 with was White with a speckled silver spatter kind of finish...or was it multicolored? I forget...it was subtle.
Ray, Paint it Neon Red and you can join the Barbie Racing Team!
Or a Pale Pink for Mary Kay...
Join the Army and go woodland or desert camo...
I think I'm going to paint my son's next body with bandaids for the coming rash he gives a body running it down the pipes or into the corners... :jest: I know, how cruel I am... :devil:

Besides, thin coat of paint equals lighter weight...

David

Hi Guys,
Getting ready to order one of these cars! A SC 18, what else do I need to order with the kit? as far as options and spare parts. What compound tires come with the kits? I will be raceing on carpet, orange fronts, blue rears?
Thanks! Lee :cool:

Hi Flash,
If you're getting a SC18 to race with, the ball diff kit should probably be your first option. They don't break easily, maybe some extra tires or gears to help tune it to your track be handy too. BRP racing is the most fun for your $.

I'm with k1m on the advice. I would add Don S.'s motor pod anti-crush tube is well worth the $1 or so it adds to the order. Bud will know what I'm talking about and gears (pinion and spur) are great things to have on hand. A spare set of tires is a good thing but on carpet they wear very well.

I'm with k1m on the advice. I would add Don S.'s motor pod anti-crush tube is well worth the $1 or so it adds to the order. Bud will know what I'm talking about and gears (pinion and spur) are great things to have on hand. A spare set of tires is a good thing but on carpet they wear very well.

rafster - I just picked up a used SC18 on ebay, it came with a ball diff kit but not that anti crush tube ( I saw that on Intelligentsia's BRP when I ran with him last week). Think you could help me getting the things my car needs? I will probably just have you send anything to intelligentsia and have him give it to me when we have a race to go to to save on shipping

Hey Blind, good to hear that you picked up a BRP. From what I remember, your Micro was pretty well set up. It'll be interesting to hear what you plan to do to your BRP.

I'm not sure if you remember me, but I was the one that brought a BRP to the mini-z g2g a couple of months ago (the same day that the Bantam was there).

heh, which micro? I've got 5.

I do remember you with your BRP, you should bring it to socal to race with us, checkout our posts in the clubs & tracks > west coast section of www.yourmicro.com :)

I'm sure I'll need a lot of practice to race you with guys, but I'll check it out. I'm hoping I can make it to the Hobby People race on the 21st, in Fountain Valley. It'll be my first time racing.

That is probably one of the worst tracks that you can race on. Good luck with that

yea fountain valley is rough, lol. Parts of the track are very high bite, while the tight section is like polished concrete if the layout is similar to the last race they held there!

I say wait, or go to the camarillo micro race this sunday (14th). You'll have a lot more fun at a better track

So there is racing there before next month. Hey Blind, I need you to call me at home as soon as you can.

Thanks

Yeah, I've heard of Fountain Valley referred to as a "no bite" track. So, any suggestions on tire choice? I do have the HPI wheel adaptors.

I am not sure that they will do you any good. We were running HPI cars there. The BRP tires may be better but we will need to see. I know that I am not racing there but I will almost definitely be in Camarillo.

take to the top

hey it's time to go out and play....this weekend I'll have the opp. to run my brp on a rental banked oval...should be fun!!!

Good luck, RCNerd..rented track? Any info you can get on that would be interesting. I've looked at several, but never raced on one. The ones I've seen were quite small, more for mini-Z cars.

Hey 1/18th scale racers, trying to get several locals interested in RC. They would like to try some on-road out. The SC18 looks pretty easy to get into without spending a lot of $. Does any one know if it is possible to use the Mini-T ESC/reciever combo will fit on one. If not what is an servo/ esc/ reciever combo that is good for a backyard basher.
Thanks David

One of the best features of the SC18 is , is that standard electrics fit . Unlike yhe micro . I use a novak spy esc , novak xxl receivar , and a hs81mg steering servo , but all that is just for weight savings . Dealing with a car that weighs about a pound with the battery in , grams & ounces make a big difference . Hope this helps . :wave: