How well does a brp perform on pavment, or concrete??

How well does a brp perform on pavment, or concrete??

pythonracer: We had alittle get together today with a couple of local racers, and the BuRPs performed excellent on our neighborhood school parkinglot with the same setup/ gearing as weve run all winter on carpet. The small stones left from winter really launch those little tires though! :eek:

ya it was pretty funny when i ran over debbies brp and all most fliped over. :lol:

ya it was pretty funny when i ran over debbies brp and all most fliped over. :lol:
Ahhh...then it was YOU that broke her BuRP, not me!! :(
That was a tough hillclimb, huh?

ya it was, i think if you got the right set up you could probably make it.

I was just at my local hobbie shop.. And was very pleased to see a few brp products on the racks... One item puzzeled me though... they had a few wings... one the (mini bi-level wing) was interesting.... But looking at it .. it seems massive... Is that wing trully made for a 1/18 scale car?? Or a larger one such as a 1/12 or 1/10 scale???

Haha.........don't worry python. That was probably one of Buds wings for touring cars. You have been to Buds site (www.brpracing.com) to see all the products he makes haven't you? If you haven't you might want to stop by as he makes some very nice items.

I would take a BRP over those mini's anyday there sweet. :thumbsup:

I just won a brp on ebay... the guy claims it is a second generation.. What is the difference from a second generation and the one's being built now?? Also is there a conversion avalible??

The older BRP cars (Oval Outlaw) had a black Kydex chassis with very limited or no rear pod movement. The second generation is called SC18 and has a blue fiberglass chassis with a rear pod that pivots. The newest of Bud's mini racer is called the SC18 PRO that takes it a step further with graphite chassis and a mini shock that dampens the movement of the rear pod which now has side springs just like a mini pancar.
They all use similar parts and they're all lots of fun.
There are conversions avaliable for each.

Regarding Bud's VW Bug body...
How do you typically mount the body on the SC18 chassis?

Jessica is using a VW Bug body and I ended up using 2.5" Duratrx body posts to mount an rectangular plate between the two posts as a mounting plate for a single blue rear body post screws that then went through the roof at the top of the rear window. I used a single 1.5" Duratrax body post on the front, but using a single post front and rear allowed the body to be able to wobble from side to side.

I'm going to change to the blue rear body mount screws off of the front suspension plate bolts. Any ideas for the rear? Or, do you think the single post in the rear and a pair in the front would be enough?

Thanks!

We use the stock SC18 3 point body mounts with the 2 posts in rear on da bug. I think a 2 point mount allows too much body roll. Actually, I really like my 4 post mount that seemed to hold up well. Its a universal body mount kit from Parma #10450 $7.00. Smaller diameter tubes with set screwed collars for the body to rest on and they use body clips. I got some mini clips that suit 1/18 scale better but are a bit harder to handle with big fingers. They worked very well, none came off, and they're easier than the blue nuts for me. He said blue nuts.....haahahahaaaa!

We use the stock SC18 3 point body mounts with the 2 posts in rear on da bug. I think a 2 point mount allows too much body roll. Actually, I really like my 4 post mount that seemed to hold up well. Its a universal body mount kit from Parma #10450 $7.00. Smaller diameter tubes with set screwed collars for the body to rest on and they use body clips. I got some mini clips that suit 1/18 scale better but are a bit harder to handle with big fingers. They worked very well, none came off, and they're easier than the blue nuts for me. He said blue nuts.....haahahahaaaa!

Yeah, the 2 point mount did have too much deflection and roll. I could always put to narrow rear body posts off the plate in the back. Inelegant solution. The stock posts were not tall enough for some reason. The SC18 having such short wheels you don't have as much depth to play with on ground clearance. Jessica's SAL7 is getting painted one evening this week or this weekend. It is going to be charcoal metallic with silver pearl flames on the front and fenders.
Amy scaled a PARMA flame mask sheet to 18th scale for me
at her work (vinyl sign company). I'll borrow a camera for some
pictures, the digital camera we had is dead.

Looking for work and doing car repairs/maintenance and yard work has kept me busy...
My next big project is getting the engine bay repainted and my '66 122S motor and tranny back in. Replacing tranny seals and rebuild on motor. Being out of work bites but the time off has some advantages.
I need to check Cleveland area for jobs...I hear things there are more prosperous than Columbus.

RAFster: Thanx for all the battery info and good job at CORCAR. I think you should give one of Bud's rent a wrecks a try at the next race. For the money it would save alot of work.

Those are rent A racers that turn into wrecks :eek:

You're right, Bud. They take a awful beating.... :freak:

I just found my last post back on page 64!!! (I have my controls set to 10 posts per page) and your on page 127 now!!!!

I decided to get a new BRP and wanna go all out!! Here is what I decided on.......

BRP SC Fun wons (possibly da bug)
BRP SC pro chassis
BRP fun wons ball diff kit
BRP big block conversion kit

I just have a few questions.....

1. Does the Pro chassis come with the center shock?
2. where should I start gearing the big block? this will be for an about 30'x15' track and a 20'x12' oval.....
3. What is the size of the bushings used in the Fun wons???

Gotta head to work I will check back later!! Thanks in advance!!!!

I can give you 1 and 3: The more expensive one on the site includes the shock. 1/8" x 5/16". The rear axle is actually a hair over 1/8". If you want to use bearings, you have to take it down a little. If you want to chuck it in a drill to turn it down, make sure that you grip it by the hub, not the stub sticking out.

I'll even take a shot at question 2, although this is more fitting for 16-Ds. I'd start with 8:52 for the road course and 9:52 for the oval. Maybe someone can give better numbers for the big block (or the 16-D, for that matter).

Hope this helps.

Impactplayr: Good to see you back. Check out the PRO thread. You didn't say if it's a carpet track or not, but 30' X 15' seems pretty small for the big block. I'd say you're gonna want to gear down as much as possible. I'd try 7/52 for the 16d and 7/60 for big block to get some bottom end.
Da bug's body is certainly a favorite but it is more top heavy than some of the others. You can slam it, but with Fun Won tires you're going to have to hack it up alot. The wedge is my favorite I think.

ok i'm new to this brp stuff..but my buddy mike let me run his brp pro chassis car tonight at his indoor carpet track he has set up. all i can say is i am now hooked! bud...great job bro! these things are the best kept secret out there! alot of fun and the price is right! i'm saving some cash to get my set-up asap! i have a battery question..does anyone sell matched packs yet? :thumbsup:

Promatch does a blasting voltage enhancement process on 2/3A size cells. They don't really say they match them. You would need to write them to have them build the pack as a saddle cell layout for the pro chassis. Ask what level of matching the micro sized packs undergo...

http://www.promatchracing.com/rs4.htm

Yes, Bud did his homework and has a very nice car for very little money. A great fun class that can be quite competitive.

does anyone sell matched packs yet? :thumbsup:There have been a few making noise about it, but I've been looking for about a year now and there are none (that I've seen) in a BRP configuration or loose cells.

BTW, Bud is making adaptors to put AAs in the pro chassis; that's what he prefers with the lower CG and, with good NiMHs, better punch than 2/3 A cells.

Walt at Classic repaved his oval track and I had a chance to run my SC18 on it. Good news, It's very smooth for the most part. Just one small section to avoid on the back straight. The track is crazy fast! Is anyone interested in some insane high-speed oval action? :freak: :drunk:

Sounds good do you think he will let us run?? I will talk to you at DA TRACK. :wave:

Bud, I'm sure that you and all the BRP racers would be welcome at Walt's. I can't speak for this $@#%^&* :mad: weather! I'm ready to build a boat! We'll talk saturday .

Hey Bud! Was going through some stuff and came across this. Happened at one of our last races and I've been going to take a pic of it and see if you've ever seen it happen to any others? I ummmm......helped canbquik do this during a heat race. :o :o

I have had this happen to me 3 times! :mad:

And Micro Racer never even hit anything!!!!!!
We had a batch of axles that the axle hole was drill too deep and it made for a thin wall right were it does fron 1/8th in to 3/16 The new ones are much better. I will get one to K1m at the next race.

Good to know what the cause is and I'm sure canbquik will thank you. :thumbsup:

If anyone is needing a new radio and receiver there is an excellent deal on CORCAR's for sale forum. JR XR2 and XR3 both with two receivers and two crystal sets each.

http://www.corcar.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=admin;action=display;num=1054720713

I've got a JR XR2 and it is a nice radio. The XR2 receiver fits nicely on the SC18 chassis....not oversized like some of the Hitec receivers (HR2NB ?).

I think someone mentioned the XR2 has some troubles indoors or am I dreaming?
Speaking of...g'nite all.

I think someone mentioned the XR2 has some troubles indoors or am I dreaming? I think that if you race indoors enough, you will find that every radio has problems on some channel at some point in the course. Don't run 61 at Classic; the end of the main straight will be your downfall. And AM is a bit more susceptible than FM. Our host this afternoon has mentioned interference problems with XR2s. Quite possibly, playing with the channel could have cleared it up. But it usually doesn't strike 'til race time.

Is anyone interested in going to Classic's in Akron this saturday (the 14th)? Walt at Classic's has repaved his outdoor oval and it is pretty smooth. I briefly tested my SC18 on it. There is one spot on the back straight that is bumpy, but it isn't on the normal SC18 racing line. Classic's starts racing at 5:00pm with practice from 11:00am untill 5:00pm. More info can be seen at: www.classichobbiesraceway.com. Hope to see everone there!

Yeah, Craig is right the bump is almost even out of the pan car line too. It shouldn't effect the 1/18th scalers. I thought about running mine out there. Keep me posted on the turnout possibility.
If I get a chance this week I may take mine down and see how it runs. If I do will report back.

. . . There is one spot on the back straight that is bumpy, but it isn't on the normal SC18 racing line. . . HMMM, that means I'd hit it every time, I suppose.
BIG AIR
Sounds like a program. Wil's busy, but . . .

What are the summer pit arrangements there? I've only been to Classic in the ice.

Nil, You can still pit inside if you want or set up a canopy outside. There are plenty of electrical outlets outside.

I don't think I will be able to make it. I may go and race the Honda!

I may go and race the Honda!Yeah, take a week end off and, um, relax?

Ok, maybe we will all go down to Classic's at a latter date.

Well, another Pro chassis from CORCAR is biting the dust.
This one has not been ran. Jeff Antle's brother is selling his
fully equipped Pro.
http://www.corcar.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=admin;action=display;num=1055082292

Thought you all might wish to know...

All:

I have been looking online for a source for the allmetal gears from sonic.

Can anyone recomend a reputable mail order place?

I need the 48p 7 tooth metal (not brass) gear.

Thanks!

The Pro went fast already sold. Rafster help Madd Matt out with the slot car on line store.

I have been looking online for a source for the allmetal gears from sonic.I've had good dealings with NCPHOBBIES.COM (http://www.ncphobbies.com/). They even give a real address on their front page, which I've always taken as a good sign.

The Pro went fast already sold. Rafster help Madd Matt out with the slot car on line store.

Yes, The Pro was quickly snapped up by someone you will see use it with intentions of toppling the pyramid...well maybe nothing so dramatic. :jest: It went to capable hands that know how to use it effectively and kick a little butt on the track. Not someone who would abuse it... :cool:

Drum roll maistro.... Andy Appleman was the lucky racer to pickup the choice property and a good deal.
Chris Antle never had the opportunity to race it...the life of a fireman...

They finally rounded up enough Mini Coopers to race this past weekend, but the BRPs have only ran twice this season, both times that Bud and Don have came down. I've not been racing because I'm out of work.

They changed the track layout for the 2nd series. More technical than before...it's the same for everyone...


Matt,

I looked at Slot Car City and they have the 9T steel pinion listed by Sonic. Email Mick and ask if they have others. MickyVegas@aol.com
Slot Car City is in Las Vegas and they have pretty good prices.
The products generally have a brief description if needed which is nice and I've always found Mick to be extremely helpful. Orders over $50 have free shipping...
http://www.slotcarcity.com/index.html

They carry a pretty nice gear press by "Lucky Bob's" that is $13.49.
http://www.digitalstorefronts.com/store/temp6.asp?cartid=3389&ItemNum=LB1000

All:

Thanks for the info on slot car gear suppliers. I shoud've known that a quick post here would get me the info I needed!

I ended up ordering from Slot Car City out of Las Vegas as they had them in stock and could ship the same day. I just put them on and will let you know how they work.

Madd Matt
www.maddmatts.com

Has anyone tried these batteries? It reads that they have
a higher output.

http://www.batteryspace.com/product.asp?0=217&1=286&3=272

Has anyone tried these batteries? It reads that they have
a higher output.

http://www.batteryspace.com/product.asp?0=217&1=286&3=272

These are the same brand as many were using. The KAN 950s
have exceptional power output capabilities as well. From what
I've read the NiMH battery manufacturers have made another
leap ahead and are able to now product cells that can discharge
at those kinds of rates.
The old (discontinued) Sanyo 500AR red shrinkwrapped cells
were capable of extremely high discharge rates with near flat
voltage curve on discharge. Some of my friends into competition
and hot Speed 400 airplanes would exclusively use the 500AR
for that reason. Now the KAN 950 has taken the performance
of the 500AR cell and upped it a bit with as good and a few
hairs better performance with very good cell life if you don't
abuse them charging the cells and let them cool off between
uses. It appears Powerizer has done the same thing with
these cells if they can support a 20A discharge without
toasting the cells.

The battery technology just keeps moving at a nice pace.
I wonder what market is driving it? These cells are a little
large for cellphone use and the Lithium Polymer cells have
that market wrapped up because of the safety devices built
into the cells packs and chargers make their risk acceptable.
(The Novak Spy Lithium packs didn't have that protection
built in apparently, and it bit them for they had to recall them
all...)

The other slot car place no one mentioned and I forgot to was
FasTrak Hobbies in Newark, OH. They have a web store at
http://www.cyberslot.net

Mario...get your mind out of the gutter...Slot cars on the web/cyberspace...
not any other cyber stuff... :jest:
figured I should beat him to the punch... :devil:

Mike at FasTrak/CyberSlot has a very nice shop and very
good selection. Finding certain parts on their website can
be a little more difficult I think. Not everything available
from the shop is on the website is also my experience.

ttt (Take it To the Top)

IF any of 1/18 racers are intersted
Brp Super car 18
Rolling chassis
Novak Spy speed control
2 battery pack and servo
1 body
100.00

Please email me at dallier216@cs.com

The best batteries out right now for the 1/18 cars are the Kan 1050 cells. These cells have an amazing discharge rate and even out perform the Hecells! They are also considerably less expensive than the Hecells.

The best batteries out right now for the 1/18 cars are the Kan 1050 cells. These cells have an amazing discharge rate and even out perform the Hecells! They are also considerably less expensive than the Hecells.