When will we get to see the pics of te new car? Will it be an upgrade? will it work with the FW18 chassis? can we buy a new pro car complete? can we get atlast a spy shot teaser??????

Bud: How about some info on the 2/3A batterys? Are you guys running the 650mah cells? What about the Mod class? I see they make an 1100mah 2/3A also.

k1m, :wave:

I know you asked Bud about the 2/3A.
Thought I'd share my experience...I was using some towards the end of the season at CORCAR. I've bought some from Racer Hobbies and others from TNR Technical in FL. They have more punch and power than the AA cells in NiCad or NiMH.
I've also tried 2/3AA cells NiMH and they have about the same punch and power as the AA NiCads.

I've got a PMR (ProMatched Racing) 6 cell pack I bought from Ray H. (a NORCAR organizer for the carpet season..) and I made the mistake of using the stock HPI whimpy leads instead of replace them with 16ga. wire. It was throttled as a result.
I loaned the pack to Bud recently but I don't think he's tried it. He's free to reconfigure it for the Pro.

You can get individual "blasted" (voltage enhanced) cells from PMR or Ray.
Ray has a relationship with PMR.

The Racer Hobbies appear to be a mix...GPs I think and otherwise. BOTH packs I opened to rewire were a mix of four cells marked "SANIK Ni-MH 2/3A 1000mAH" and two marked "MH-2/3A1000".
GP 1000s I hear are good cells. I think the TNR Technical 2/3A I bought are GP 1000s. GPs have a light green shrinkwrap.

Racer Hobbies (ebay seller as well...) (http://www.racerhobbies.com/micro.shtml)

ProMatched Racing (http://www.promatchracing.com/micro.htm)

Ray's user name on the forums is "rayhuang". His name in real life or RL... :D :D BTW, Ray's price was better than direct...a sale I think...

TNR Technical website (http://www.tnrtechnical.com/)

I think Bud told me in email he had some Sanyos and some others that were junk.
Bud, you getting in the 2/3 A source business. If so, some Sanyos would be nice...

FYI, 2/3 A cells in NiCads were the favorite of Speed 400 direct drive and geared drive airplane crowd. Their combined weight and power delivery were the ticket for that class of airplanes to grow to huge levels.
Sanyo made a 500AR cell that was fast charge/discharge and the 600AE cell which wasn't as power packed. The 500AR was originally a red labelled cell and it was the cell to have because of higher power delivery. They redesigned it and it is no longer as capable.
The 500 was 500mAH etc...

Hope this helps. Sorry it is so long...

RAFster

Pictures of the new chassis SC 18 Pro in Carpet racing league Check them out!

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?s=&postid=308905

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?s=&postid=308907

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?s=&postid=308908

......CREDIT CARD!!!! Bud when will the Pro be available for order and at what price? What is the difference between the LTO and the PRO? I realize these are premature questions but those pictures are awesome!

Thanks,
Z

Okay.. The cats out ofthe bag. No when can they be ordered?
Soon I hope.

Fierce racing at Racers Edge this week - I managed to bump up the track record another lap. Must be the lightweight chassis Bud, "Da Wedge" seems faster than ever, Thanx.
Don was a very close second, infact he led much of the race until a tangle with lap traffic let me get by. I think the micro with F.W. tires was third! :D
I talked to one of the other Micro drivers tonite in the pits, he's decided not to race 1/18 scale right now, he's giving 1/12 scale a try. He said he has almost $800 in that Micro he's not going to run!!

Is that possible?? Man, I was amazed! Oh, and BTW I found out he has been running the Big Block in it too! No wonder he couldn't keep it on the ozite!
What bothers me is that he's relatively new to R/C and he already has a bad taste for the 1/18 Scale class because he thought if he spent alot of money, he would go fast. And that's just not true.

Bud: The Pro looks awesome, is the rear shock oil filled? Can't wait to try and bleed that little sucker! Are you going to sell the 2/3a batterys? Fun Won PRO? :devil:

Guys >>> hope to have the Pro chassis by middle of Dec. It will be just a chassis upgrade Don't know the price yet but between $50.00 and $75.00!
I will keep all informed!
K1m>> You can use the chassis with the SC Fun Wons Just put your front end on it and I may offer it with a Fun Wons from plate.
Talked to some big shots from one of my dist. The Micro mania is over. It only took one year. Yes $800.00 is easy I had one tell me he had $1,200.00 in it but I think that included radio. Maybe thats why the sales are off, Ya think???
The BRP's have been around for a long time and I plan to keep them around :thumbsup:

k1m can you run the 2/3A cells?
Try the PMR cells.

Probably the mediocre performance even after dumping $$$ in them has soured people on them. Maybe HPI was looking to rebuild the car and make it faster. Maybe they were looking to incorporate a ball diff design that was proven and works well. I really couldn't believe they put gear diffs in the car. Tamiya has been so ragged on so much in the RC car press for their use of gear diffs that I am surprised HPI went that route.

Hopefully this souring of the market won't affect the 18th scale class...
Shouldn't locally but overall a lot of distributors with LOTS of stock on hand will be closing it out...
They will not be willing to stock other ventures like this, even if it is another manufacturer. They will be gun shy of things for a bit...

Amazing failure of the "Car Of the Year" market.

RAFster

RAFster: technically we are supposed to run AA's only:

Any BRP 1/18 scale chassis (Oval Outlaw, Super O.O., Fun Wons, SC18)
Any BRP 1/18 scale body
No performance enhancing alterations other than BRP (present and future) are allowed.
Please use the supplied stock motor, there is really no need to buy a faster one folks (remember that FUN element here)
6 cells or less of any MAH AA battery ONLY (need not be BRP)
Reversing ESCs are allowed

I'd like to do some testing with the 2/3A cells....we're working on it and hope to try out the Watt Age 370 soon. We will try the PMR cells as well. Maybe a mod class Ovalman?

Thanx for sharing all that info you have RAFster, Please keep it up!

ZENFLEA: I haven't seen anything myself, but I think the PRO version is a saddle pack configuration for the batterys (3 on one side, 3 on the other) and the LTO is Left turn only (all 6 cells on left side).

There are pictures of Bud's new chassis on the Mini RC Carpet Racing League thread. Near the end. Or the link below will show you one of the pictures Bud posted.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?s=&postid=308905

SS

Fun Wons are too fun not to share! Zip Zaps are cute.......but come on!!!!
BRP Rules!:D

BTW, If you are building a 2/3A pack for the SC18 the battery tray will hold 5 A cells side by side. 3 cells end to end are too tight for the tray.

So, a 5 side-by-side with the other cell centered one end or the other will give good chassis balance. If you have tweak to deal with and your ESC is heavy or the receiver and you need the added weight on one side to balance the chassis you will need to play with the placement of cell #6 to balance the chassis.

RAFster

Dunno...........maybe. Seems everyone keeps putting other things on them that aren't really stock anyway so maybe we'll just run everyone "outlaw". I just hate it for those of us that run for fun and don't really take it seriously. I mean the biggest improvements to mine are a turnbuckle setup for steering on Moms and a bearing instead of bushing in the diff gears on both. Our motors are even the originals that came with them. :rolleyes: Rules changes are in order though since we now have micros running I guess.

Running a "mod" class and a "stock" class at Classic worked out well. The main difference was motors and batteries, if you don't include Bud's prototypes.

There are several groups trying to come up with a workable formula. If everyone keeps experimenting, things should shake out eventually.

I'm reminded of the beginnings of the Can-Am racing formula, which was rumored to be a series of phone calls between Jim Hall and someone (maybe Bruce McClaren?). Each call would end with, "I'll get back to you," and they would run to the garage, measure their cars, and start negotiating again.

You know, I've known of some drawbacks with the NiMH packs.
One of which is higher IR values for the cells that only go up as you go to smaller cells. This is part of the reason the AAA NiMH packs don't work well for the SC18, no punch. Weight is ideal, but it doesn't deliver the power at the level we need it.
The proper charging methods so you don't destroy the packs are also needed. I use a Novak Millenium charger (older one capable of .4mV/cell detection.) So, I don't overcharge or the charger look for a heavier overcharge peak (NiMH peak rather softly compared to NiCads) I reduce the charger's cell count by one cell and reduce the Voltage threshold to 4mV/cell setting. Sometimes they false peak but overall this keeps the cells from overheating from overcharge. NiMH packs will overheat to a critical level if they are overcharged.

SR batteries is a very well respected name in RC aircraft batteries. They produce very high reliability packs that are Mil-Spec rated and one of their customers is NASA. THey are pricey but everyone I know who uses them loves them. They only sell NiCads and they publically had not had a stance on NiMH cells and Lithium cells.

Check out the SR Batteries info regarding their personal opinion on NiMH and LIthium cells. (http://www.srbatteries.com/whyno.htm)

I wonder if you can get 5 minutes out of a 500AR cell or 600AE cell in NiCd.
I don't think we see the reciever drop out problem using 7.2 volts for a pack. But, if you start glitching then it could be because of this. If it coresponds to hard acceleration, then it probably is this problem. The Radio priority circuitry in some receivers works better than others and the ESCs are getting better. Whether or not it works fast enough for NiMH packs when it was designed to work with NiCds is the question.

So, NiMH packs aren't the magic cure all. They require a proper charger and they can't be handled roughly.
Sounds like I need to reconfigure a set of the old 500ARs before Sanyo redesigned them and see how they do...find out if they wlll go the distance.

RAFster

Hello,
I am very interested in the new prototype sc-18 car, is there any info on when these will be available? Forgive me if this is a redundant question, I have been out of the loop for a while!

Thanks,
Larry

Larry, Bud is trying to get them out by mid December. Bud and my son raced them Sunday and they are awsome.:roll:

Ovalman: I know what you mean about "run for fun", I don't want to see that change either. I just can't help myself though, I have to strive for "MORE POWER". That comes from my job, and I feel that way about everything, not just R/C. I can't look at anything without wondering how it would work if I changed this or that. So I've been pretty careful not to add bearings, or tie rods, etc but I've just gotta see how this other motor (cost-$10) and 2/3 cells work. I'll just do some testing during practice.

Larry: Check some of the past posts (last page and other threads)everything thats been released so far is right here.

RAFster: Sounds like you're right on the money about NiMH. We've been running them since early last year and have been very happy. One other thing I'd add to the care and feeding is that they don't like to be stored discharged. Charge them right up if you're not going to run them for a while, they seem to like that better.

I went by CAPSTONE HOBBIES in Westerville, closest hobby shop to my home, to pickup some things. The Hitec screws were on the rack and the WattAge 370 I ordered was in the case. Guess they didn't tag my order...so I felt no obligation to buy after discovering this. Hobby People must have an excellent discount on this motor ($9.99) because
Capstone priced it at $14.99. So, if several of you want to play with the WattAge 370 (An equivalent to the Speed 300 6V motor or the Big Block motor without the SMD capacitor circuit board) go together and order three and split the shipping charges. At $6.50 for priority that is ~$2.20, roughly $11.20 for the motor. Given you can order 5 for that same shipping amount, it would be a way to make the price a few dollars cheaper.

The Speed 300 7.2V motor is available, Capstone had them for $13.99. They were rated at 12k rpm no load at 7.2V drawing less than 2A.
The 6V Speed 300 is rated at 29k rpm no load at 6V drawing 5A.
The 7.2V motor appears to be much less capable than the 6V motor...unless you are pumping 9.6V into it... But, 7.2V into the 6V motor makes them pretty strong. Great for drag racing but not so good for road courses and marginal on the oval I hear...
But with someone like Rich, Don, and Bud they can make it look easy for the Speed 300.

RAFster

Hi all!

it's been along time but I finally got back to this site. I have an esc question. I am looking for a new one as the duratrax blast and esc-100 both were discontinued. The problem? I don't want one touch.

Has anyone tried the traxxas XL-1? The price is right and no one touch.

Thanks

Madd Matt

Bud,

can you please repeat the upcoming race dates, Akron and Toledo? Any directions to the mall in Toledo?

Thank You

:thumbsup:

The Toledo track is at the same mall as the Gas track. It is at Woodville Mall. I dont know for sure, but from Cleveland I would take I-80 East to I-280 North. Exit at Exit 6 (Ohio Route 51 Curtice/ Woodville Rd). Go East 2-3 miles to the Woodville Mall. Go around the back of the mall and you will see the gas track.

Or use the link below and get directions to there.

http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.adp?country=US&addtohistory=&address=3725+Williston+Rd&city=Northwood&state=OH&zipcode=&homesubmit.x=55&homesubmit.y=6

SS

pmelcman >> Toledo Dec 15th Classic Jan 11th if OK with Walt!

MaddMatt- the XL-1 is way too big for a BRP car, I am afraid you won't be able to get away from the one0touch speedos..... why do you have a problem with the one touch set-up??? when you take your time the new speedos are much easier to set-up and hold the setting forever....... I like the Futaba MC230, and set-up is a snap, just hold the button until the light starts flashing, pull full throttle and hit the button agian, ull full break and hit the button agian, then let the throttle in teh neutral position and hit the button agian..... your done!

Just got back from my local track here in MA., R/C Excitement. They just finished their micro track. Like their off-road track, this sucker is tight! Couple of the corners can't be wider than 2' across. There wasn't anybody else there but me and my beat up old SC18 so I didn't get to embarrass myself too badly.

One immediate problem though was clearence. This track is a resurfaced asphalt floor in an old warehouse and I seemed to be bottoming out a lot more than I should. The front of the chassis is totally scraped up. I had some loose motor bracket screws that were also scraping so I don't know which made more noise but it is pretty clear my car sits a bit too low. I don't see anything that could be done about that other than new tires. Can somebody tell me the "normal" O.D. of a set of tires? My foams may just be so worn that I have lost that extra that I need. Can I run Fun Won wheels and tires? what sort of gearing change would be needed?

Thanks in Advance!

ChrisHarris--you may want to try the SC-18 HPI tire adapters...the tire diameter is larger than the stock.....

You guys should read this...do we know who was racing the BRP at Larry's in Sterling Heights?

http://www.yourmicro.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12&highlight=SC18

RAFster

Rafster:

You know, every once in a while I feel sorry for the micro guys :)

I have people tell me all the time that I should be running micros. I tell them that I tried but I couldn't keep up with the repairs, slow laps and constant need for hop-ups to compete.

Stock is good

Madd Matt

You're right, that's sad. Kinda reminds me of full size racing, though. If you can't beat 'em, outlaw 'em!

but.......One of the few guys that race a micro with us was running an old set of Fun Won tires I gave him with some sucess. He paid big bucks for some new 1/12 scale fronts with more rubber on them, but now he's back to traction rolling because roll center is so much higher.

Everyone has recomended the stock futaba but what is the deal with it pulsing if the transmitter is off? Does this mean if my gun is off, the thing will start jumping until I turn it off?

One last check, anyone try the hitec 520?

Thanks again for the help

Madd Matt

MaddMatt,
The Futaba one-touch speed controls beep to warn you that the ESC is not receiving a signal from the transmitter.

Madd Matt,

That's a feature like Bud pointed out...maybe an annoying one, but still a feature.

You didn't race with CORCAR this summer did you? There was a Matt from Buffalo region that raced with CORCAR a couple times...he ran a Micro RS4 though.

RAFster
David

A micro RS4?

Please, I could never put myself through that!:D

I haven't raced with you guys yet but I am hoping to make a couple of races this upcoming summer. I figure I have a ton of hours racing buds cars and it would be great to really open it up and have some fun with them

The futaba won't work for me then as I can't have that beeping and pulsing. Anyone using the hitec 520? or can you recemend another? I would even go so far as to get a one touch if I absolutely needed to:cry:

Thanks

Madd Matt

Wait a minute....What beeping and pulsing? Not unless you have your radio turned off! If it's not acting right with your transmitter on, somethings not set right. But you should always leave your transmitter on until you turn your car off. We're running 2 Futaba MC230CR's in Fun Wons and are very happy with their performance AND price. If you want to spend more money and give up reverse, get an Atom.

Micro_Racer has raved about his Quantum Pro with Reverse. Smaller than all mentioned with reverse. The MC230CR does a nice job but it only pulses and beeps when it isn't getting signal when there is a problem that the transmitter is turned off or you have a reception problem. It actually helps tell you the receiver isn't getting the sanity signal of being on...
The ATOM gives you a super race ESC.
I think the LRP Quantum series gives the same or better performance.

RAFster
David

I LOVE my LRP Quantum w/Reverse....I have had 4 ESC's and the LRP is by far the best....

Any speed control is going to twitch and go out of control if the car is on and the transmitter(gun) is off

Thanks for the help everybody!

The reason I have concern about the transmitter being off is because the way we run the cars the transmitter is off right up until the start of the race. It's just one of those things I have to do for the rental business.

My current duratrax esc-100's are bulky and outdated but work great. I will check out all the others. I had been looking at the LRP and will look again.

On the positive side, I need to order my new radios and esc's on Monday so this discusion will be over soon!:thumbsup:

Thanks again!

Madd Matt
www.maddmatts.com

I checked out the LRP and it looks great except a power switch would be nice, so I am thinking the F1 w/ reverse.

I am guessing the extra $10 difference between the runner gets me the power switch and that's about it.

Thanks for all the input. I'll make sure to check back one more time before ordering on monday!

Madd Matt
www.maddmatts.com

power switch and a brake... the runner has absolutely no brakes!!!!

:wave: Just a reminder that Classic Hobbies of Akron will be running a Hangover race New Years day. Doors will open at 9:00am with racing starting at 1:00pm.

I think I am the only one who has this problem but has anyone else out there broken off the front post mount over the servo?

I am hoping there is an easy replacement or substitute mount that won't break off after a bunch of hits on the wall. Mine cracks off right at the bend. I can tape it down with duct tape and it will hold for a while but I am looking for a more permanent solution

Thanks

Madd Matt
www.maddmatts.com

The new front bumper should help save that part.

I haven't heard of this. Is Bud offering it or it from somewhere else?

At last, pics of the allusive Pro rear suspension:
http://www.brpracing.com/images/175c.jpg
more:
http://www.brpracing.com/175.html

MadMatt: check out the BRP front bumper thread:
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?s=&threadid=37941

Thanks for the heads-up. Hopefully this wil savethe front mounts from cracking so often!

I'll call bud and order some with my next order!

Madd Matt

Madd matt>> Hope to have them ready end of week.
K1m >> Thanks for the update link your stuff will go out on thursday

Happy New Year :hat: