Hey BUD are we going to any other races before Brat?

The annual Glass Festival in Port Allegany, Pa will be held on Sept 21 with R/C racing beginning at 1:00pm on the Maple St. side of the town square. Included will be the ever popular BuRP class and we're looking forward to running the mini racers again. I've been racing my EMaxx all summer - nothing like going from one extreme to another!

MaddMatt: For rentals, I say try the 4 or 5 cell battery packs to get the max speed you want them to run at. Some radios have adjustments (ATV) that you can limit the throttle, thats what I use to introduce new racers to R/C until they get the feel of it.

Fun Won tire/wheels give the SC18 the monster look. You'll need to replace the SC18 front beam (blue piece that goes across chassis in front that kingpins bolt to) with a Fun Won front beam and the Fun Won rear hubs. I do suggest you lower the pinion gear to 7t(Bud sells them too)because of the larger wheels. You'll have to raise your body mounts and/or trim the wheel wells also. You'll like the way it looks AND handles!

RAFster: 52/7 is what I run with the Fun Won and the motor is just warm after 5 min racing. For your mini servo, try Shoe Goo. You can peel it off if you have to, but it holds good. Also, I made a 1/2" X 3/4" 90 deg piece of lexan - sort of a "clip" that mounts on top of servo to front body mount. It adds alittle more strength since I also run a foam bumper gooed to the front of my body mount. So far its holding fine and the foam bumper underneath really saves the front of the body and wheel wells.

Don >>> I don't think so! Racing the Honda some. It's pretty fun :)

Hey guys,just got my SC yesterday and was wondering if anyone had a good(or great) setup for a smooth,high bite asphalt track?Any help would be greatly appreciated.Also,i almost forgot,Bud,my SC was missing the "B" parts bag with the front body mount,etc.Also,my GTP body i ordered looks like when it was in the molding process the very back left corner up near the spoiler received just a small amount of lexan(trying to desribe this the best i can)and it actually has a hole in the body cause the lexan is so thin back there and the left side of the car looks like someone took a pair of scissors and cut a piece of the body out almost close to where the the thinned piece of body is(am i making any sence?? lol).What can i do about getting this stuff back to you and receiving a replacement?Also,sorry to be such a bother,do you offer ball bearings for this car?Thanks Bud!!

Kartrun>>> I emailed you on the bad body and missing bag, Sorry!!! The best setup would be stock only thing to change would be the front tires to #380 orange. Setup the rest per instructions and setup sheet.

The GTP bodies are really stretching the 0.030 Lexan fairly thin up high on the body's rear fins. Generally it can be trimmed to be hardly noticeable since it is the area cut out and the shape of the rear coming up can be cut to make it undetectable. A very thin place will all but disappear if you use the solvent based lexan paint. (The paint will melt the thin area a bit.) My first GTP body had this thinning. The second one I bought did not.

BTW, you know you will need to use a micro sized servo for the steering servo on the
GTP body don't you? The HS81MG will work but you'll want to fabricate a strap to help hold it down. Simply not enough surface area to keep from getting popped free if you happen to smack the barriers from time to time. If you are good enough driver to never do this, then don't worry.

David
RAFster

RAFster's mention of the HS81MG may have left a point implied that needs to be explicit, IMHO. The "MG" means metal gears. If you try to run plastic gears in a micro servo, you will most likely tear them up, even with a servo saver (anyone want a HS81BB with stripped gears, cheap?). The metal gear unit will take a huge amount of punishment, however.

BTW, that's by Hi-Tech, and is probably the cheapest metal gear micro servo available.

How do you guys tear up servos so much?? Is this just in the micro servos or what? I have two SC18 Fun Wons. One is driven by me and the other my Mother. I have Futaba S148 servos in each of them with NO servo saver and have had no gear problems (as he knocks on wood!). Let me tell ya Ma aint exactly easy on the little car either. :D

I've blown one servo in a SC18 and it was a Hitec HS-300, equivalent servo to the Futaba 148. At top speed I blundered and hit the corner pipes with the right front tire. (Cutting the corner a little too close.) As a result the force was enough to break teeth off the final gear set.

Bud doesn't break servos, he rarely hits the pipes. Others of us are not so skilled. The C main is often a messy sight. ;D

I was not running a servo saver when I did this damage. Had I ran one it probably would not have been damaged by the blow. The gear set in the HS81 and HS81MG has very tiny teeth. The normal nylon HS81 gears can be broken. I've heard of the HPI Micro guys going through servos in a hurry, that and 5 minute life span on the stock steering knuckles.

RAFster
David:D

Originally posted by OvalmanPA
How do you guys tear up servos so much?? Is this just in the micro servos or what? By my observations, yes, it is the micro servo, unless you get the metal gear set. I've only used them with Kimbrough servo savers, so I don't know if the metal gear servo is as tough as a standard full size. But, I've not torn up an HS81MG, and I use my car as a wall detector. I have to speak highly of this servo; I use it on an oval buggy, too.

By the way, Bud now recommends a servo saver even with the full size servo.

Hank reports on a new 1/18 by Bolink:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?s=&threadid=27687&perpage=20&pagenumber=1

Down near the bottom of the page. Seems to look like Bud's old design some.

The dragster does look interesting.

Just curious here. Can the BRP's motor take a 7 cell pack? Just tried one in my 1/10 and was blown away by the speed improvement. Obviously couldn't run a 7 in a race but just for sheer speed, would it work?

Chris

Much will depend on your speed control and how you gear it. Odds are it would need a different gearing from 6 cell. You will burn through more Amps with the additional cell and the batteries and motor will get much hotter. Don't plan on the motor lasting a long life running 7 cells.

While the motors in the normal use, slot cars, run on 12V they are accustomed to pushing very light weight cars at that voltage. Also consider, what makes a fast slot car motor doesn't make a fast SC18 motor. Having said that, I would bet the motor can handle it. If you have a fuse protected ESC and run a test and after a couple minutes of running check the motor and batteries. If they are getting too hot you better change the gearing. The other thing to consider is track type. If you are running a tight track the current seen will be higher and you will be more likely to torch the motor. A longer track won't be as brutal on the batteries.
As you add cells to a battery pack the run-time goes down and the current draw goes up.

Bolink's new Drag car (Micro sized) uses the SC18's motor so consider that they will probably use 7-8 cell packs...or higher. Drag racers don't plan on long lives for their motors.

David
RAFster

Originally posted by ChrisHarris
Can the BRP's motor take a 7 cell pack?I think if you dig through the old posts, you will find one where a fellow fried his 16-D using seven cells. I'd bet it could take it if properly geared, but I would be very careful.

I've found that the motors get HOT on a tight road course, but stay cool on a large, banked oval, which is proof of what RAFster said. These were both using the stock gearing.

On the other hand, replacement motors are not extremely expensive. However it comes out, let us know.

I was thinking of it more for playing against my 10 year old. right now my BRP is just a bit slower than his aging XXTCR with a stock motor. It would be so much fun to be able to smoke him rather than simply driving cirles around him! He takes way too much pleasure using my BRP as a speed bump!

Don't think it is worth killing the motor for. The ESC should be fine as it is an LRP Runner right now and shouldn't have a problem with the current.

I'll let you all know if I get silly! Thanx

Who is planning on running the CRL series this year? Bud, Hank??? anyone else:) If you don't know what teh series is, please refer to the Onroad section of this forum and look for "Carpet Racing League"

And Bud, rest assured that this will not be an "unlimited" class this year :thumbsup: , there will be rules, like width, wheelbase, 6-cell only, only s-16d's, no speed 300's...

FYI...
As usual I was browsing some of the Micro web sites and over at Your Micro they had a thread I was reading which someone was grousing that someone needed to create some competition for the HPI Micro. Naturally, I could not let that one lie around untouched... :D :) ;)
Ya gotta spread the word there are other (better) solutions out there... ;)
So, I replied that if they didn't mind a 2WD versus 4WD they need look no further than the BRP Super Car 18. The webmaster of yourmicro had replied that we should stay tuned because a review of the BRP SC18 is forthcoming and they will be having an SC18 giveaway.
I'll try to keep tabs on it and post a note to direct your attention to it.

BTW, the RAD bodies for the Ferrari 360 Modena and Mercedes CLK GTR are compatible with the SC18.

David
RAFster

Originally posted by Greg Anthony
Who is planning on running the CRL series this year? Bud, Hank??? anyone else:) If you don't know what teh series is, please refer to the Onroad section of this forum and look for "Carpet Racing League"

And Bud, rest assured that this will not be an "unlimited" class this year :thumbsup: , there will be rules, like width, wheelbase, 6-cell only, only s-16d's, no speed 300's...

Greg, I plan on making as many as I can weather permiting. I ran Bud's series this summer and it was a blast.

Bud,
I received my replacement prts today by UPS and i have to say thank you so much for the awesome service.I know which micros i will run from here on out ;)

SC18 Fun Won, DA Bug for sell at http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1767225926&rd=1 (click). It is brand new and has never been used. Great chance
to pick of a new car at a great price.

It was until you posted it here. :D :) :wave: Now everybody knows!

I saw that one last night.
Wanna see something more shocking then check out the amount one went for on
9/1.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1761606162

$10.50... Poor seller

David
RAFster

I have had her since this past Christmas. My wife bought it for
me and I put it together Xmas day. I haven't touched it since. I know that most people haven't even heard of the BRP
cars so I was trying to draw some attention to it.

Someone co-opted Mr Clean's URL link in his post. Below is the corrected link.

Originally posted by Mr Clean
SC18 Fun Won, DA Bug for sell at http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1767225926&rd=1. It is brand new and has never been used. Great chance
to pick of a new car at a great price. Mr. Clean:

If you did not add the URL= to your post, you should report it to Hankster since this would be a breach of his security.

Hi Bud or anyone

I just put XP magnets in both my wife's and my car motors today , I followed the instructions but both motors ran in reverse when I was done. Could the magnets have been marked wrong or was this suposed to happen? Thank You Bill

Originally posted by Nil
Someone co-opted Mr Clean's URL link in his post. Below is the corrected link.

Mr. Clean:

If you did not add the URL= to your post, you should report it to Hankster since this would be a breach of his security.

Are you saying that someone went in and edited my post? I noticed that the link in my original post is no longer working.

Anyhow, this is the corrected link to the car as stated above. Hmm...why would someone want to mess with my link?

Brp sc18 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1767225926&rd=1.)

Hello Mr. Clean. You live in NC huh?? I'm from Durham by the way. If you are looking for a great place to race you should check out our new track located off of 70. We race everything from micro to 1/8th nitro onroad.You can check out the track at www.thercspeedway.com
ENJOY!!

Forgot to mention that our track is hosting the NC state electric and nitro onroad championships(ROAR rules apply) October 5-6 2002.For more info just click on state race on the tracks website.Be sure to spread the word.

Originally posted by Tc3manus
I just put XP magnets but both motors ran in reverse when I was done. Could the magnets have been marked wrong or was this suposed to happen? Thank You Bill They were either marked wrong or you misread the directions (not an insult; they could be clearer). Take 'em back apart and reverse the magnets. "Backward" magnets make DC motors run in reverse.

Originally posted by Mr Clean
Are you saying that someone went in and edited my post? . . . Hmm...why would someone want to mess with my link?That's exactly what I'm saying, and why I'm a little concerned. Either someone "hacked" your password or they penetrated the board's security. Obviously, the latter worries me more.

In either case, Hankster should know about it. I left it up to you since you could have done it yourself.

Why? Who knows? Practice for bigger and better things? Build up traffic for a favorite site?

Guys the magnet with the white mark goes on the side with the arrow! If you put it on the side with the white stock mag it is wrong, the motors are messed up. If you got them in wrong just swap the motor leads if you don't want to take them apart again.
Sorry but even Paul at Parma was surprized to see that the mags in the stock motors were in wrong.

Is the Super 16D timed? If so, and the magnets reversed won't the timing be the opposite of "normal"
So if it had 27 degrees of advance it will then have 27 degrees of retard when the magnets are reversed. If it is a neutral timed motor then it wouldn't matter.
Does it work that way?

Thanks!

David

RAFster: As long as the car is going the right direction, the motor has the intended rotation. Which way you apply the current won't matter.

Hello,
When I installed the XP magnets in my motor they would not fit per the instructions. The only way they would fit is with the white marked magnet on the side opposite the arrow. When I ran the motor it was turning in the wrong direction, so I reversed the wires and have had no problems with it. I must say however that once you try the Speed 300, you will never want to run the 16D motor again. The Speed 300 in the SC 18 is absolutely AWESOME!!! But not for a short track.

Thanks,
Larry

Actually it will affect the top RPM of the motor. The speed 400 motors are designed with neutral timing I think. Of very mild timing. To operate in a gearbox they are wired backwards and this causes the motor to not have top speed. The current draw and speed of a motor are increased to a certain point when the timing is adjusted. The more timing the motor has the faster and generally the shorter the life.
Roar specifies what the limit is for timing on a Stock motor.
A neutral timed motor will have nearly equal rpm figures whether it is run forward or reverse.

The timing from what I understand is determined by the brush contact with the commutator in relation to the magnets.

This article applies to adjustable timing motors.
http://www.ezonemag.com/articles/1996/time.shtml

David
RAFster

Rafster>> If mags in wrong just switch the motor leads! As long as motor is turning the right way it will not change timing.:eek:

unless your last name is Rieley and you "improved" the motor that is....

for those of you who don't know the Rieley's like me and Bud do, they are great people, and the whole CRL got a little out of hand last year with testing a bunch of different motors, not only them, but alot of US. If any one of you think I was accusing them of anything, feel free to come on over to my pit any time and we will "discus" your misunderstanding.

Anthony,

As I recall, they improved the CAR, not the motor :lol:

Regards,
SS

Originally posted by Greg Anthony
If any one of you think I was accusing them of anythingWell, it sounded to me like you were implying they messed up a perfectly good car. One of these days, I hope to get up there to discuss your modifications, though. Or maybe you could make it to the Brat? Or maybe, just maybe, the CRL can make it to Cleveland?

I really do want to see a Reily, the car, that is. They've become almost a legend down here.

I wonder how the SC18 motor, Super 16D, would do in an airplane swinging a prop in a gear drive?

With a lightweight airframe and 7 cell or 8 cell 500AR nicads it might do quite nicely.

Sounds like an interesting winter project.

David

You really arent missing much. Oh wait you said the car. :D

The car is sweet. Adjustable camber, caster, and toe. Carbon Fiber chassis. The car design is being refined in anticipation of a production run this fall.

I know Keith Hamilton is planning on banning Speed 300's from the CRL. When they ran them at a Toledo race, Jim Reilly ran fast enough to put his 1/18 R-1 in the Touring Car A main. That is cool.

Regards,
SS

Pining away for an R-1

:devil:

Is anyone racing this weekend? (Sept. 21, 22)

:eek:

Grove City is have the Arts In the Alley festival and invited CORCAR to host a 2 day race again. Last year we hosted the HPI Challenge race. This year the trophy race is open to all makes and is 3 rounds of qualifying Saturday and 2 rounds on Sunday with the mains following.
Hal Johnson is organizing the race. There are details in the thread on the CORCAR forums. http://www.corcar.com

They expect to 4WD Electric Stock and Modified Touring Car, 4WD Nitro Touring Car in stock and modified, Micro (HPI RS4 Micro and BRP SC18), Novice Electric, and possibly Mini Cooper electric (Chameleon 19T single spec mod motor). The Mini Cooper class may see the Tamiya Mini (FWD) pitted against the HPI RS4 Mini (4WD).

They are also hosting a Celebrity Race to
start things off with Grove City politicans, fire, police, emt, etc. competing in Nitro 4WD Touring. Hal has painted up IROC themed Audi TT bodies for the event. The celebrities are going to be coached by racers and will be verbally assisted and pit the cars for them.
Rumor has it that the Governor may pay the race a visit.

Entry fee for the two day event is $15 per class.

David
RAFster

Originally posted by k1m
The annual Glass Festival in Port Allegany, Pa will be held on Sept 21 with R/C racing beginning at 1:00pm on the Maple St. side of the town square. Included will be the ever popular BuRP class and we're looking forward to running the mini racers again.

Just a reminder in case anyone feels like a "Road trip". The street we usually race on was recently blacktopped so it's nice and smooth. I'm gonna give the tires we ran at "Da Track" a try on my SC18 and I may be loaning out Da Wedge. Since they haven't been run much this summer, I cycled out my BRP packs last night - some of the older ones aren't looking so good. They're NIMH and I stored them dicharged down to .90V/cell, I'm thinking maybe I should have stored them fully charged. I'll decide for sure after a few more cycles.

K1M,

Everything I've read on the NiMH says to
never dead short them and always store the
with a minimum of 1/3 charge. More the better from what I hear.
I hope they recover for you.

RAFster
David

Iv been running the equivalent of the 16D for a few seasons. Actually Iv gone through about 5 motors on those years.

We run on a very short track (about 25 to 30' corner to corner) and I dominate because no one runs this expensive motor.

Its a hand built aluminum pan car with "full" ball bearings, t plate tweak adjustment, with custom rear tires 2" wide to handle the power.You can puch it, and it wont spin the tires. The only thing stock is the diff. , hubs , & front end. It flies!

Im wondering if the speed 300 would be better. Does it spin the car out if you nail the throttle? It MUST with stock width wheels. anyone tried the 280 with removable brushes? Iv heard its just as fast as a 300 but with the removable brushes & a flat spot to sit lower in the rear pod.. You can see it at hobbylobby.com

It must be allot heavier also. Does it have the same shaft dia. as the 16D motors?

Might be time to build a new rear pod for one of these motors.

BTW.. I gave up searching for "fish foam" that the slot car guys use on there rear wheels. It stinks like fish, but is softer & grips better than ANY foam I have seen. Anyone know where to get?

cya

Mike

From Hobby Lobby's website
(http://www.hobby-lobby.com/speed280.htm)


Speed 280 GR6328 12W 6V 14.2k no load rpm 8.0k load rpm 6x4 prop size 4A 3oz. thrust 1.25"L 15/16"D 2.0mm shaft 1.5 oz. wt
Uses: Small boats. planes under 10 oz and 150 sq.in. wing

Speed 300 GR3306 40W 6V 31.0k rpm noload 19.5k rpm load 5x2 prop 11A 8oz thrust 1.25" L 15/16" D 2.0mm shaft 1.8 oz. wt.
Uses: Planes under 20 oz and 200 sq. in. wing area

SI2010 Acro Speed 280BB Motor 6V $37.80:
has Ballbearings, external brush connections. More power than SI2001. rpm/v: 4000, resistance: 340mohms from our not quite trustworthy measurements. Good with 4.5:1 or 5:1 gears, 9x6 slowflyer prop. With 9x6 prop is draws 8.5 Amps and gives 5500 prop rpm with 5:1 gearbox.
(This is the Simprop Acro Speed 280BB)

SI2001 Power Speed 300 Motor 6V ... $15.20:
Rpm/v: 5554, resistance: 292mohms from our not quite trustworthy measurements. 24.2mm diameter: 0.2mm larger diameter than 280. You can install it into 280 gearboxes but you will have to slightly enlarge the motor holder to make it fit. This motor gives much stronger performance than our GR6328 Speed 280 motor, with higher current flows. Good with 4.5:1 or 5:1 gears, 8x6 slowflyer prop. With 8x6 prop it draws 8 Amps and gives 5600 prop rpm with 5:1 gearbox.
(This is the Simprop Speed 300)

Given that the 8x5 or 9x6 prop will
have more resistance than a set of wheels in a 18 ounce car will make the rpm figures higher.

So you are referring to the $$ 280BB, not the 300 by either Graupner or Simprop.
(or the Graupner 280)

They don't provide many details on the specs for the 280BB motor.

David
RAFster

SI2010 Acro Speed 280BB Motor 6V $37.80:
has Ballbearings, external brush connections. More power than SI2001. rpm/v: 4000, resistance: 340mohms from our
not quite trustworthy measurements. Good with 4.5:1 or 5:1 gears, 9x6 slowflyer prop. With 9x6 prop is draws 8.5
Amps and gives 5500 prop rpm with 5:1 gearbox.
(This is the Simprop Acro Speed 280BB)

This motor is the one, but like you said, not much detail. I know a permax 280 weights 1.5 oz & a 300 is 1.8. I thought it was much more. guess not.


Anyone ever tried rc12L oval wheels etc on a brp?

Mike

I believe the SC18 Fun Wons uses 12th scale front wheels...
As a result they are faster than the SC18. Effective gearing is different due to tire size...changes the rollout.

The 280BB is pretty expensive, would be an expensive test, then again no more so than buying a Team Orion branded Big Block (Speed 300).

I believe the 280BB is longer than the 300 and it would require a new top plate and Tplate.

David

Can anyone tell me what wheels the fun won uses? It looks like fronts off a 1/12 rc12L3

Since I cant find my fish foam, Im thinking of trying rc12L rear wheels, pod , etc.. The rims are 1 3/8 outside, so if you true the foam down to 1 1/2" leaving 1/16 of foam all the way around your wheels would only be 1/8" bigger than stock. Its a 1/4" axle though.

Who has info on the fun won?

Thanks

Mike