Hi :wave: Ray, look at RCCA's june issue pg.131 LRP lists the specs of all their Speedos. The sport (#lrp8440) I have is great for SC18 and I think 12th stock. The pro sport(#lrp8460) looks interesting for touring and mod. motors to me.:roll: :D ;)

how many windings are on a BRP motor? That seems to be one of the factors in buying a esc. The smaller the footprint the better. My esc rooster is great for my step-sons to play with around home but its huge.... weight...tons...

I was looking at LRP myself...

ty melchman:wave:

Don't worry about the windings, there like 70T, any esc that you can buy that will run a stock 27 turn motor with run your BRP motor. Shop around there are a lot of ESC's out there that are cheap and do a good job. Just DON'T BUY AN AIRTRONICS ES-01 !!! It can not hand the BRP motor. I found this out by trial and error. I was the experimenter on this one. :rolleyes: A lot of people I know use the Futaba 230 ESC, I got a good deal on a GM V4R ($45 new) and that works for me, some other people I know use the Duratrax ESC. So it realy doesn't matter, but you do need to find one that will fit in your BRP with your other electronics. Just my two cents. Hope it helps.

kanesurfguru has hit it on the head. Lots of choices,most work the same, and with exception of AIR, all work on an BRP's SLot car motored cars.


My BRP car was super fast last winter with just a Dynamite Power Pulse Forw. Reverse ESC, which probably weighed as much as the car and was HUGE!!! Okay-not AS heavy, but you know what I mean!!! It also had a cheaper, slow servo in it and it handled great. DONT be lulled into thinking you need to spend $$$$ to have an A-main capable BRP car!!!! The fun is in having an inexpensive car and whooping but with it!!!


Heck Buds rental cars can TQ and win with the right driver!!!



The BRP is like racing 12th scale anyways-its more driver than car for a awhile. Its all about carrying maximum speed in corners and building and maintaining car perfectly so it is as friction fee as possible at all times.

Thanks for all the input, I just hate spending the money to find out later what works and what doesn't work. A question can save tiem and money!! :cool:

Do any of you know of someone who can paint bodies? I have several great ideas but I can draw a straight line with a ruler!!!:cry:

ty

melchman

e-mail me for info on paint jobs!!

rshuang@ameritech.net

:thumbsup: kewl paint job!!!


melchman

Check out the Futaba MC230CR before you buy. It's tiny and works great in BRP cars:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXUY13&P=7

We have 2 of them and like them alot.

Just an additional vote for the Futaba MC230CR. Ray was talking about the Spike awhile back; I've run three different ones in various cars, including two BRPs. The problem with it is getting the high end screw set right. Set too high, you don't get any mid-throttle control; set too low, the car won't hit top power. If you can get this right, it's fine. Take off the heat sink for BRPs; definitely not needed, and prone to loss anyway.

The Futaba is worth the extra $10 or so, just to make sure you have the set up right.

Nil

I had the Spike in my BRP...loved the size, but not the performance. It it hard to get it set up just right. I just got the LRP....much better performance.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXRE96&P=7

NIL,

Good input on the Spike!!! I wont be getting one now!!! One button set-up is worth an extra $10.00 for sure. But boy that spike looks small and light!!!

One thing to keep in mind is that the Spike is a low frequency speed control (60hz?). The throttle response will be similar to an on off switch. I prefer the Futaba 230CR- high frequency, small footprint, and reasonable price- 50$. With speed controls, you get what you pay for.

:p from what I have read I like the LRP product. but which one. THey make a ton of them. I know I want forward/brake only so I can race. My Rooster has rev. THe kids like that!!!

I'm also trying to install turn buckles and a servo saver. I just want to ability to fine tune the steering.

Take Care

melchman

on most of the speedos you can disable reverse so you can race, as long as that is allowed in the track rules.
I don't race, but I have a rooster, lrp f-1, and a futaba 230. all are easy to setup and work flawlesly, but the futaba is tiny compared to the other2, and the case opens up easiest, so you can easliy replace the wires with ones more realistically sized for 1/18 cars.
for a forward only solution, the quantum sports seem to be popular as well, due to the quantum's setup where the bat/motor wires areaccessable withoug removing the case
-Anthony

;) Thanks for the info. it is very helpful. It's still a very tough decision. thanks........

melchman

Nice avatar Bud - But for some reason, Hank replaced mine with yours. when I hooked up I had the BRP logo. I'd like to submit another but i don't want you to lose yours. I'll email it to Hank again, but please ask him about it.

K1M >>> Thats what I sent him what you see! That is what was in your email????
Is it right?

Yep, yours looks good.... but he put it where mine was for some reason and took mine off, No big deal - I'll resubmit mine, maybe it'll be ok then. We'll see.

OK I see!!! Or sould I say don't See!
Are any of the PA gand planing on coming to the race on June1????

I'll be there! 1 hour to KSG's house, 3 1/2 hours to Ohio!

Hey everybody!

I want to make sure I didn't screw anything up. I ran my new SC18's yesterday for a couple of hours. I didn't dip and really didn't do anything much before running them (and running them and running them...)

Did I screw anything up by doing this?

Why I am concerned is because the motors were getting pretty hot and every once in a while a car would either slow down or stop completely until it was hit.

Help!

Madd Matt

The first thing that pops to mind is, were the gears too tight?

Second, hot motors is not unusual if there is a lot of slow down/accelerate action involved. My BRP motors get quite warm (read ouch!) on a road course, but on a fast oval, with full throttle all the time, stay cool.

Third, for it to stop(!), you are either binding a bearing, likely the motor, or causing the thermal overload in the ESC to kick in. The latter is unlikely with a BRP.

So, a couple of questions:

What ESC are you using, and did it feel warm?

How long did the car run per charge?

Nil

Proline just came out with some new bodies for the Micro. So you know what that means....they fit SC18's!

Looks like 2 trucks - Dakota & Sierra and 2 cars - Modena & 350Z


http://prolineracing.com/proline/new/micro-new.html

You would find the wheel bases differ by about 3 millimeters. Since they show flares the wheels will off center. I mounted a 150mil HPI corvette and hade to elongate the rear wheel well.

Race report from CORCAR Columbus OH >>> I went back to Columbus today. I was TQ buy 2 laps running about 10 sec. faster than my time last week. Second place went to a SC18 that I sold to a Micro owner last week, He said the car was great.
Tryed running the Big Block one heat and it was just too fast for the bumps they have in the sweeper, it was as fast as the TC on the main straight. For the main I went back to the stock setup, by this time the track was seeping water again and you had to drive all over the place to avoid it. It was fun running the weird lines. Second was 2 laps down and I think it was the local Micro master!
Hope to see Ya all on the 1st :wave:

Way to go, Bud. How many cars did you take down this time?

:thumbsup: Good job Bud. Are some of those racers gonna come to the World Headquarters and race?

melchman

Nil >> There was 8 racing 3 BRP!
I told them about the racing at DA TRACK will just have to see if they come up.

Hey Bud is there any chance of a indy car comeing out for these little monsters in the near future i know it would be tight but boy would they sure look cool

I have been thinking about that :p
I,m building a nitro version for myself but that is somthing that we will not be selling. It will use a norvel .049 engine, I have to make all the clutch parts and many other special things.

Bud... has Da Track conditions changed since the May 4th race....Any helpfull set-up tips?

Thanks
:roll:

Bud, A ballstically fast F1 or Champ car would be very awesome!!! I was actually thinking of asking you that myself!!! PPPLLLEAse make them-I'd love to run those at NORCAR next year.

Also-any plans to have a BRP class at the Champs in 2002??? Even an exhibition class?

Hello fellow BRPers! :)

I had a quick question about the slot car motors that come with the Fun Wons. How many cells can you safely run with it??

My bug currently runs off a Novak Rooster and I am wondering if I can make a 7-8 cell pack to run it on.
I want my Bug to be faster w/o buying a new motor.

Let me know what you think.

Also, I got extra slot car motors in a trade and have no clue what they are. They have pink endbells on them and are Parma motors.
The one that came in my bug has a green endbell.
Any help would be appreciated! :)

JAy

JJordan: The motors we use in our BRP's are slot car motors and I haven't been able to pry much info out of anyone about them. But I believe they run slot cars on 12v so a 7 or 8 cell will be fine as long as your ESC can handle it. Have you tried Bud's XP magnets? You might find something interesting here:

http://cyberslot.net/

Ray>> No Time is what they say about running anything at the champs :rolleyes:
Microracer>> Nothing should have changed I have not run since then. I'm going to try and get some time in on friday.
jjordan2>>> You might be able to go to 7 cells if just running in a huge parking lot if your in a smaller area the motor will probable burn up. The slot cars run on 12 volts but weigh nothing compared to the 1/18th cars. If you have the newer SC Fun Wons we have a conversion for the rear pod that will let you use the Orion big block motor, that really makes the car fly.

Thanks for the replies!!!

Bud,
I have an older Fun wons. Is there still a way to put an Orion big block on there??

Thanks,
JAy

Bud if u let anyone see this car after u build it u will have to sell it you know the saying "IF U BUILD IT THEY WILL COME " i just dont see anyway u could go wrong with a car like this even if u just sell the parts and u have to buy the motor and put it together u cant go wrong put me down for a kit :D

OKracer:

You've got a point. We have a secret mission to the "Works" on Saturday to ferret out the secrets. I hear there are some fellows out toward Toledo that may pay handsomely for them.

For those fortunate enough to race there, I have bad news, CORCAR is now gone!!!

Ray

www.corcar.com

Look out Bud! The Fun Wons from Pa. are leaving for BRP World Headquarters tomorrow. If the weather cooperates, we hope to get some track time on Da Track Friday nite after we check in our rooms. If not the Comfort Inn is likely to have little cars running up and down their halls.:lol:

Originally posted by rayhuang
For those fortunate enough to race there, I have bad news, CORCAR is now gone!!!

Ray

www.corcar.com

Well, not exactly gone...we have to take the track down (Saturday) due to the City's orders to Lowe's.
You can read more as it becomes available at CORCAR's website. The thread's URL for this topic is:
http://207.54.175.41/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=general&action=display&num=1022781356

David Martin
RAFster

I have SC18's and I am having a blast with them except for one thing: I have broken off the front plastic clip that attaches to the servo and holds the body down. Is there some remedy for this? Anyone know of a bumper or something that will protect it?

I think it is happening when the car hits either another car or the wall (both of which happen often):) and the body shifts a little. The part is breaking where it is bent and snaps off pretty clean.

Any help would be great

Madd Matt

Our trip to Da Track (Port Allegany, Pa. to Elyria, Oh. - 250 miles)was a blast! We got to the track Friday around 6:00 after passing through 2 violent rainstorms around Cleveland to find Bud doing some laps on Da Track himself. He welcomed us and invited us to a tour of the BRP factory where all this fun comes from. It was pretty neat to see the stacks of blue fiberglass the chassis are made from and the bins of little tires! We did alittle testing on Da Track with different tires and gears and followed that up with an EXCELLENT crab leg dinner at the local Chinese Buffet. Our rooms at the Comfort Inn were indeed comfortable and convenient.
We set up at Da Track Saturday and did alittle more practicing and was able to meet some of the people who we know online but not in person. Now I can put some faces to the names and they all were very friendly and fun to race with. The Fun Wons from Pa. pretty much made up the B main with Donalbain taking the win and Joy taking 2nd. KSG and I were back in the pack abit but we were in there digging!
:rolleyes:
2SlowOO: sorry I missed you again!! Bud did a good job on the grill, he can drive AND cook!
Bud: Thanx - you put fun in a box.

Originally posted by MaddMatt
I have SC18's and I am having a blast with them except for one thing: I have broken off the front plastic clip that attaches to the servo and holds the body down. Is there some remedy for this? Anyone know of a bumper or something that will protect it?

I think it is happening when the car hits either another car or the wall (both of which happen often):) and the body shifts a little. The part is breaking where it is bent and snaps off pretty clean.

Any help would be great

Madd Matt

Contact Bud, He can sell you replacements.

I bought another one so I can fit different
bodies that need more clearance in front.

As far as the bumper...
You can carpet tape some foam to the servo
body mount to help with the bumps some.
EPP foam (Expanded Polyprolyene ?sp)
returns to its original shape. It will not
crush as easily. But it Could cause the servo
to pull free. A dense foam bumper should help.

David
RAFster

First, a question: How are you holding the clip on? I use servo tape to hold it to the servo, and it always flexes, or even comes off, enough that the clip isn't damaged.

Second, Bud's replacement pack includes both the clip and the rear posts. I just tried putting the rear posts on the screws next to the steering posts that hold the front suspension plate down. The only trick to this is that you have to replace the stock screw with something slightly longer, or take off the nylon nuts. I did the former, so I'm not sure how taking off the nuts will work. You have to cut the posts to length, of course. The ones I was using had already been shortened for a GTP body, so they were too short to use on a T-type stocker with the nuts removed.

After rearranging Da Track Saturday, I'm going to be mounting all my SC18 bodies this way. Seem much tougher than stock.

Nil

Bud and k1m sorry that I couldn't make the last race. I hope to be there for number 3. Bud are you going to Classic this Sunday? Craig called today and I'm planning on going. I don't think I can get to Shifters on Saturday.

:)
All you guys going to shifters, after the race check out the car cruise at Eastlake City Hall after the race. Alot of car will be there.
I'm going to try to be there.

2slowOO... Yes we are going to Classic sunday! I'm also going to try to get to Shifters.
See Ya sunday :wave:

CORCAR is back in business. We are setting up the track in Grove City Saturday morning. It is going to be at Star Cinema 8 in Grove City! 2384 Stringtown Road, Grove City OH...
Coming from the north on I71 take Exit 100
(Stringtown Road) make a right off the exit.
The Kmart is on the right side of the road.
Star Cinema is on the same parking lot.

Another bit of news is that Bill has approved the Micros to run the Big Block motor. I guess Bud whooped up on the poor little abused HPI Micro
too much. We'll see how my Viper bodied SC18
with Bud's breathed on XP magnet stock motor
holds up against the big blocks Sunday.
My work has been beyond crazy. 14-15 hour days
all week. Need time to fix a couple battery packs
and sort out the radio trouble I had at BRP World Headquarters.

David
RAFster

Another bit of news is that Bill has approved the Micros to run the Big Block motor. I guess Bud whooped up on the poor little abused HPI Micro

The SC-18 with the XP motor will not keep up with the Big Block. Bud has a Big Block conversion pod you can get! Check out my web site for tips!

:devil: