2slow00

I plan on being at classics on the 20th. Anyone out in RCland have the BigBlock by Orion? The Orion motor is mounted on the opposite side of the stock motor. When I hooked it up to my Duratrax Spike ESC my car went in reverse. I switched the leads from the motor, but then it did not run at all. I can’t put the motor on the other side because the conversion kit is made to fit only on way. Any ideas? Bud do you have a pod conversion kit for the other side?

We are going to stay with the 16D motor for next years series. Bud makes motor plates for the big block. Talk to Jeff Ferron at Mentor Hobby Town. He ran one at the last Brat race and was extremly fast.Bud ran one at the last Classic race. He is fast with either motor.

Micro racer >>> the pod is designed to put the motor on the opposite side as the kit motor. Hope I did not bend those plates wrong.The axle holes should be towards bottom of pod plates. Give me a call.
We will be running the 16D at classic.

Bud:

Last time we were at Classic, one of the real oval guys was asking when/if we'd be back so he could bring his BRP. Would it be a good idea to send a flyer down there and ask Walt to post it?

Nil

How does the parma deathstar rate against the stock BRP motor w/ the upgraded magnets? Which one would be better for a wide open track?

:p

The Deathstar is good, low cost 16d motor. The stock BRP motor (green endbell) is very similar but epoxy balanced. That, and the XP magnets might make it more desirable on a larger track where it gets a chance to rev up.
I think staying with 16d motors for racing is a good idea. If enough people want to throw alittle more money at them for mod motors, that's OK too, but they need their own class.
Speaking of mod motors......I got some info on a brushless motor that might be fun to play with. "AstroBob" at Astroflight tells me they make a tiny brushless motor for airplanes that will fit in our mini racers. It's called 010 and it comes with ESC for around $150. stock #801V. Not sure how it performs when geared to tires instead of a propeller, but it sure sounds neat!
:cool:

Orion has 3 motors for the micro...has anyone tryed the 20900 Elite Micro Modified Motor it is coreless. Is the Parma motor better than the Elite Micro Stock Motor? It looks like the stock motor will fit into BRP's rear pod.










Web Link to Orion Motors:
http://www.team-orion.ch/products/micro_tuning.asp

Originally posted by Micro_Racer
Orion has 3 motors for the micro...has anyone tryed the 20900 Elite Micro Modified Motor it is coreless. Is the Parma motor better than the Elite Micro Stock Motor? It looks like the stock motor will fit into BRP's rear pod.

The elite mod is incredible in the BRP.You need to modify the right side motor plate with new motor slots to fit.It fits in the pod just fine. Dial your brakes way down because this motor has a ton of brakes.Same deal with the stock motor, either HPI or Orion but don't worry about the brakes with them. I think any of the micro motors are better than the Parma, at least on a shorter track, as they are designed to run on 6-7.2 volts and seem to have much better torque at this voltage. Good luck.








Web Link to Orion Motors:
http://www.team-orion.ch/products/micro_tuning.asp

Sorry about the bold type. Not sure how that happened.

I had trouble finding this schedule for the Summer Racing Series on Bud's website so I'll post the link here in case anyone else did too:

http://www.brpracing.com/images/datrack2002.pdf

It lists the dates, time, rules, and a phone # in case you have any questions.

Hi All,

I am trying to put together a BRP web site that will have all hop-up info, latest ideas, and most important FAQ's...I know allot of questions are asked and answered by Bud on this site, but we have no way of finding questions and answers without going threw 100's of replies...I will try to copy all questions and their answers on my site in a easy accessible format. If you would like to have something posted please email me.

PS-- I painted a new body. I am getting much better with the spray paint! It looks great with the HPI tires! Check it out at:

http://home.attbi.com/~michael.elwood/Photos.html

:thumbsup:

Looks GOOD!:thumbsup:

How do the rubber tires handle compared to the foams?

BoLink,

I really like the rubber tires. They work great on linoleum floors, and are just awesome on pavement. The foam tires just don’t have the “sticking” power that the rubber tires do. A few guys down the street from me have HPI Micro’s; I could never get off the line as fast as they could. Now with the rubber tires I can beet them off the line! Plus I can turn without front end slip. I would suggest “roughing” up the rubber with sandpaper before running on carpet. Most of all the rims look nice on the car!

Originally posted by Micro_Racer
The foam tires just don’t have the “sticking” power that the rubber tires do.
Which foams were you using? The stock kit tires?

Nil

I used what Bud put in my kit... Has anyone tryed the Team Orion ESC (Flash)?

Micro-racer,
Glad to hear the rubber tires work out, the HPI rims do look great. Foam tires work great with traction compound and hardly work at all without it. Full goop on the rears and inside 1/4-1/2 on fronts. If you are in a position to use it, give it a try.
Gordon

At my track we aren't allowed to use traction compound!:eek: So with the foam tires, I may be in trouble!:( But If I goop the tires with ground fx the night before and let them air dry they might work fine.:p I just might have to order the high traction soft tires from bud.

Whats the difference between HPI 4718 rear micro tires and HPI 4716 is it just softer compound? Also, are the rear wheels wider than the front? The wheels come 3 different pairs per part tree. So if you want a matched set you have to buy two...., Nice. :confused:

K1m,

I have a set of wheels sitting in front of me. There are 12 of them. So this makes 3 different sets of 4 wheels. One pair of front and rear for each spoke type.

I can't answer your question about the tires as I am trying to figure this out too! I know that they come in different profile types and this may have to do with the grip you get but I am at a loss to tell which compound is harder or softer with the standard profile tires. I see a compound rating on the different profile tires but not on the "standard" profile ones.

Hope this helps some...

Chris

When you order the Micro rims you get 3 sets. Each set has a rear and a front (Rear are wider than the front). As for what tires to use check out my web site for all details or go to the HPI link below.

http://www.hpiracing.com/usa/index.htm

The PDF and JPG are on my website.

Micro_racer: thanx for the link, HPI has an excellent tire selection guide on their site.

Looks like #4713 & #4718 are the kit tires suitable for parking lots, etc. Their other tires are High Performance (not high profile as is states in Tower's tech notes) and come in narrow (front) and wide (rear) in different compounds with #4716 being a HP rear soft.
They are nice looking wheels, but I would have much rather spent $10 on a matching set of 4 than $18 on 3 sets of 4. Hey, we'll have spares now, anyway.

$18 on 3 sets of 4. Hey, we'll have spares now, anyway
WOW you Got ripped off i paid only $9.99 for wheels at Hobby People in California.:thumbsup:
Slot Surfer

K1M,

Did you by a set of 4 tires? I see them sold by 2's front and rear so you can mix and match--about $8.00 a set of two...

Here's the HPI stuff I ordered for my new SC18:
HPI chrome wheels # 73412 6 wheels, 3 pair different styles $9.99. I bought two to have a matching set of 4. (see pic) :confused:
HPI Micro tire front #4713
" " " rear #4718
" " " rear hp soft #4716
Add to that Bud's wheel adapters #361 and I'll have about $50-$60 in the conversion. It's gonna look sweet with these wheels/tires under that new Mustang body though! Hope it's not all show and no go.
I also ordered a Futaba S3101 micro servo for it...it's TINY! And since Bud has OK'd bearings in the front wheels, I picked up some 1/8 X 5/16 flanged Duratrax bearings. A hot XP motor, and a fresh pack of Kryptonites, and I'll be ready for the summer racing season.
Look out Bud! Some guys from Racer's Edge here in Pennsylvania are headed for Ohio - May 4th.
:thumbsup:
Hpi Micro Chrome Wheels pic:
http://www.gpmd.com/images/hpic4274.JPG

k1m,

OK, you went with the upgraded HPI chrome – nice choice – but more expensive! How much were the bearings? A few people at the Brat had the Micro servos; they worked well and cut some weight off the car. The only problem one of them had was the servo tape kept un-sticking. Oh, make sure you have a servo saver, the micro servos NEED them.

What Mustang body?

I look forward to seeing you guys at Da Track….Sounds like you will have the ride, but can you drive?

Just a little trash talk…….:p

Did you check out the Orion ESC? It’s the lightest one I have seen

You're right, a servo saver of some kind is a must as far as I'm concerned on any servo. The bearings were 10 for $23 or you can get 2 for $5 from Duratrax.
Bud's newest body #262 SAL S-7. I believe the SAL is a reference to SALEEN - Mustang. Probably a trademark thing.
Don't be suprised if I end up driving "da wedge" anyway! I'm used to it and it's been well tested.

Can I drive?....Naw...I'm pretty old and slow witted. But, I'm pretty lucky! I'm sure it will be fun! :lol:

k1m we're all old and slow over here. You should fit right in. :dude:

Don't forget guys I'm the current 1/18th on road and oval WORLD CHAMP :p I'm working on the track this weekend if it does not rain too much. Will post to let YA ALL Know whats working good.
2sloww00 .. CORCAR has a 1/18th track for the races down there. We need to make a road trip and whip some Micros !!!!!!
Don't forget Oval racing on the high banks of Classic speedway on the 20th.

What's your oval track record, Bud? Where is Lowell St. in relation to Griswold St. & Lorain Blvd.?
Is that Quaker Steak & Lube gonna be open 2SlowOO? If not the Red Lobster will do Fine!! The only thing I like better than racing and wings is racing and crab legs!! we're looking forward to seeing you're part of Ohio. We've been to Sandusky before but usually we shoot right through Ohio on our way elsewhere.

k1m:

With micro servos, I'd recommend metal gears and a servo saver. I toasted a couple of HiTech nylon gear sets before I switched.

I finally got the servo to stay down; the last time I put it in I was in a hurry. It wound up canted against the front block hold down nut so only about half of it was touching the servo tape. Didn't come off again. Go figger.

Nil

Bud is the QS&L open? And is Chuck going to Classic? The road trip sounds good let me know when. k1m wings or legs both are favorites with BRP racers everywhere?:D

2sloww00 >>> QSL is long way from being done here I don't think they have started on it yet. I don't think Chuck is going to Classic. The PA racers are coming to the first BURP race. We could hit the QSL in Columbus!!!!!
See you all sat :wave:

Planing to go the 20th, getting car ready, what time do the doors open, what time is everybody getting there?:thumbsup:

Bud,

Are you serious about driving all the way down to Columbus for a QS&L after the May 4th race? Why do that when I would much rather go downtown to the Hard Rock or the new CoopersTown. There are tons of great restaurants right in Cleveland. Why drive 2 hours to Columbus?


:confused:

Mico-Racer>>> When we go to columbus to race :rolleyes: Also they are building one about 5 miles from the shop and it sounds like you have never been to QSL have you???
See you on the 20th

Dan I think the doors open at 2 and racing starts at 6. It was crowdwd last time but we squeezed everyone in. It shoudn't be as bad this time.:thumbsup:

Hopefully I will get my SC18 tomarrow. Darn that econo shipping! :D


Anyway, do any of the micro rs4 bodies fit the BuRP?

Originally posted by BoLink Boy
Anyway, do any of the micro rs4 bodies fit the BuRP? I've heard the Viper fits; but haven't seen one on yet, despite having two waiting to be trimmed and painted. If you have a chance, look for the "old production" body. "New production" Vipers have the top half of the wheel well pre-trimmed. Since the wheelbase doesn't quite match, this limits the appearance of the mounted body.

Nil

A rainy weekend, no big plans, and a box of goodies from BRP. Pretty hard to take, huh?

The new Saleen body is very nice, details true to form, and a perfect mate for the Vette. I really like the window masks, that's my least favorite part of a new paint job. I was looking for paint scheme ideas and ended up here:
http://www.saleen.com/home/home_set.htm?x=1
Nice pix for details but looks like they only come in silver and orange. I need something more flashy for my eyes to focus on!:eek:

The SC18 went together pretty smooth, I've put a couple together for other people, but the more detailed instructions were much more helpful. I put to use most of the tips I've gathered here on the Hobby Talk forum. One new tip - if you decide to install the optional ball diff kit with HPI wheels, assemble the complete axle and see if you need to grind alittle off the threaded end to clear the center of the left rear wheel. I grinded 1/16" off mine, but now my diff nut doesn't thread on as far as it should. I plan on a test run tomorrow night.

The HPI chrome wheels are beautiful! For the record, you get 3 full sets of 4 stock #73412 for $10. The micro tires look like little black rubber bands, but they fit the wheels like a glove - no bulges of lumps. And the soft set I got too is literally sticky! I'd say softer than S3! Hope they last all day! :devil:
I'm alittle leary of the wheels just sliding onto the adapters. I realize that's how they are on the Micro, we'll just have to try them and see I guess.

Nil-Thank you. I will keep that in mind when I look for one.

I finished the sc18 last night. There is a pic attached. Really fast a great handling. Though I didn't get SC18 stickers, I got "Da Bug" stickers. :D Pardon the decal on the back spoiler.


I picked up a Parma "The Rotor" slot motor for $5 from a bargain bin. Has anyone used one? The Adjustable timing sounds like a neat idea.

Hey K1M, sounds like it's about time for a play day to check out the looks of this new BuRP you built. Have you been up to the Votech to see how much of a mess the parking lot is lately? Been itching to get my Stampede out and run her a little too! :)

Ovalman: OK! yeah, let's get some of us together and go play. The VoTech's parking lot is getting pretty rough, and it's always sandy this time of year. But with all the rain we've had, it might not be too bad. The best place to run up there is around that 3 cornered traffic island.....but man those cement curbs are brutal! If we could only get rid of all the full scale traffic!
Good place to scuff in those HPI tires too! I'm hopin' my old buddy Ovalman has a small Kimborough servo saver hanging on his peg board so I can give the new SC18 a test drive.
Bolink Boy: nice looking super truck, that body looks good on Fun Wons too. (see pic) I agree with you, some new style BRP decals would be nice.
http://olympia.fortunecity.com/bannister/128/burps.jpg

OK…I had a chance to test out Da Track at the BRP world headquarters. If you have the stock HPI rubber tires for the rear…get ride of them all I did was spin out on EVERY corner. Bud let me try his foam tires he was using at the brat on the HPI rims. No spinning but the car pushed a lot in the straits. Now the track was just sealed, so it was slick. I don’t think the track will change that much by May 4th. It may if we get a lot of rain. You may want to stick to foam rears….I will hit Da Track a few more times with different set-ups and let you know what’s working best! :cool:

I'm new to this whole mini thing. Have a BRP SC18 that is pretty much stock. What are the hot mods and set up tips for this car. Also what are some good motors to get. Thanks, MED

I'd say the best thing to invest in first is the ball diff kit. If you want to race, it'll make it more predictable in the turns.

Here's a link to my 1/18 scale web page, be sure to check out Pit Tips:
http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/BuRPhome.html

Micro_Racer: Thanks for the info on Da Track. What gear were you running? Not quite sure what you mean by pushing in the straights??

Hello k1m,

I may not have the proper terminology but, when I come off the corner and throttle up the car’s rear end tries to pass the front end! So the car “pushes” to the left. When zipping down the strait you end up making a lot of steering adjustments to compensate the rear push. I hope that makes sense! Bottom line with the foam tires it is very difficult to drive a strain line at full throttle.
I am using the ball dif gear and 9 tooth pinion.

P.S. Bud showed me his “summer project” a small gas engine for the SC-18!

Med511…check out my web site for hop-up tips!

http://home.attbi.com/~michael.elwood/RC_Home.html

What you describe is normally said to be "loose off" in other words, the rear end is loose and tries to come around when you get on it comming off the turn. The opposite is obviously "tight" where the front wheels don't want to turn the car and they seem to "push" sideways instead of turning. If your car ALWAYS heads off to one side when you try and accelerate, there is something wrong with your diff or maybe it's just too tight. I like my cars alittle loose, but alittle push is easier to drive. The worst thing is what they call "pushy-loose" where your car pushes and doesn't want to turn going into the corner, then becomes loose and wants to spin out comming off the turn. It's all fixable though, if you have the resources.
This is the first I've tried anything but foams on a BuRP, but with trucks and touring cars, foams seemed to work on rough blacktop like streets, and rough concrete. But on sealed surfaces or smooth concrete, the rubber tires gave more traction. You may even want to try a combination like front foams and soft rubber rears to hook it up.

Nobody talks about it much, but we can change the front caster on SC18's and that may help too.

:hat: NEW PIT TIP :hat:

When I replaced the front bushings with flanged bearings, I noticed that they fit the wheels (hubs) very loosely. So loose that just by turning them upside down, the bearing would fall out. A bearing does no good if it turns in the wheel instead of the bearing itself turning. I took a flat blade screwdriver and forced little dent marks into the wheels right where the bearings fit in. 4 or 5 is enough on each side and the bearings fit nice and tight!

Can you put bearings in to support the rear axle?

That would be the most logical place for bearings as any slop there affects gear mesh. If you just run for fun, do it. (You'll have to sand down the axle some so if fits in the bearing). The only reason I've put them in the front of my SC18 is because Bud has Ok'd them (front only) for his track. Until now the rules were no bearings. Check your local track rules.

Who's planning on going to Classic's Saturday?