Bud how was Tolsdo?

2slow>>> J Lap strikes again!!! There was a good turnout but lots of delays because of the awsome J lap system. Had about 18 1/18th cars several were running Big Blocks and the Mi guys have deceided to stick with the 16D motors for next season. The cars are just too fast with the other motors and it makes it like 1/12th no fun. We didn't even run the mains 3 qualifier was done about 6:45. figure out if there is a day we can go back to Classic maybe after the nats.
J LAP:lol:

The Nat's are April 12th - 14th. We could go on the 20th or 27th. Anyone have a preferance? Don't forget May 4th race at world headquarters. Bud keep us informed about QS&L opening. I think I may have wasted my money on the personal transponder.:confused: I see that the Midwest Series is going to run J-Lap at all events. I'm thinking of running just BRP SC18's this summer. Let me know when you go to Columbus.:p

2sloww>> April 20 would be a good day so far. You can run your personal transponded at the BRP races it just wont count laps!!!! Sure will let you know about columbus. I may try to get to D&D this sat it is there last race and I wanted to run on the dirt oval :eek:

Hey guys, fill in the rest of us....

What the heck is J Lap?

I know of the AMB system but is J lap something new different?

Also, has anyone tried the KO Propo lap counter? Supposedly it is completely compatible with the AMB but almost half the price

Madd Matt

The final race of Racers Edge's 2001-2002 carpet season was won by Chris Burrows with a nice 32 lap run. Joy and I traded BuRPs for the main just for the fun of it and we nearly pulled it off. One time I rubbed on Ovalman alittle and she got blamed for it!;) She even apologized for me! But Chris, who can look one way and drive the other caught on to it and ratted us out! I made it to the lead several times with Joy's "Da Bug" but I kept trying to take short cuts across the corner dots (plow disks) and rolling over. "Da Wedge's" low C.G. is alot more forgiving in the turns. Anyway, Joy got 2nd with 31 laps, Rick and Don had a dog fight going with 30 laps each, then came me, Johna, Barb, and Cory.

Get This - I talked to Justin, our only Micro owner, he's having his Micro fit with some hubs so he can run 1/12 scale front tires! Kind of a Micro Fun Won?? Maybe he'll get a chance to try it out when we visit his home track, PRO Speedway in the next couple of weeks.

I think we had a very sucessful season with a total of 12 different racers this year. We had alot of fun, and we really put these little cars to the test on the track and they performed great! VERY little breakage occured - the bodys took the worst beating, and we do tend to be alittle rough! :D

http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/wavingflag.gif

Bud & 2slow00, The 20th sounds good to me too. Who else can make Classic's on that date?

MaddMatt, The J Lap is a race scoring program that can use personal transponders. Some clubs are finding the program more than a little buggy.

Originally posted by marioparnelli
MaddMatt, The J Lap is a race scoring program that can use personal transponders. Some clubs are finding the program more than a little buggy. It uses the AMB transponder counting hardware.

Nil

nil how does the 20th sound to you? If you run into any of the guy's ask them if they can make it.:roll:

Are you guys going to run the BUD's car on the 20th?

Originally posted by 2slow00
nil how does the 20th sound to you? I took the little guy down to Classic for Tuesday night practice last week, and he wouldn't forgive me if I didn't bring him. It's late, but I think he can handle it.

Dan:

I sure hope so. At least, that's what I'm replying to. We had a whale of a time there last time.

Nil

Bud:

We were at Firelands Scout Camp last weekend, and slid by Lowell Street on our way home. Thus, a question:

Will we be able to set up pavilions in the grass north of the World Championship track?

Thanks
Nil

So when would be the best time to plan the pilgrimage to BRP World Headquarters, May 4? And I assume if we'll be racing on "Da Track", we'll be running oval? Joy and I may not be the only ones to make the trip from Pa either. Acouple of others seem interested in comming too and I'm working on the rest of them!
:thumbsup:

Dan the 20th look good to all who have replied. They will be done with the Nats and it shouldn't be as crowded:p

ATTENTION all BRP racers and other 1/18th I talked to Walt at Classic and the 20th of April is a GO for BRP oval racing FUN :)

K1m.>>> May 4th would be cool we are running the oval track. the Big amusment park is not open at that time yet if you had that in mind!

Nil>> Yes you can set up a tent if you like.

:roll: Hey Bud, see if you can get Chuck to come race at Classic's. Bring the rentals!

K1M,

I guess this is directed to you but others can surely reply too. What low cost ESC's are good for the BRP's. Tower Hobbies has the Duratrax Spike for 27.99 and the blast for 39.99(these aren't high frequency). I have seen the GM racing ESC's versions 3 and 4 for about 54.99 on Stormerhobbies.com (these are high frequency). The GM's will go to lower turn motors, although I know this isn't necessary for the BRP's but it may make sense in the long run regarding exchanging to another car.

I really haven't found much info regarding high vs. low frequency ESC's. I assume it has to do with braking and battery management efficiency. Could anyone elaborate?

I have won a few of the Oval Outlaws on Ebay. I am messing with these until I can make decisions on parts for my new SC18's. I also will be messing with some extra bodies to try my hand at painting. Oh, I decided on Hitec Lynx as my radio system. Good bang for the buck!

Thanks for earlier advice!

Chris

May I suggest a Futaba 230CR? There are quite a few people at our track running these and they are a GREAT little ESC. You want smooth? These things seem to be able to go as slow as you want them to. They are also tiny! The only drawback is you'll only be able to run stock motors if I remember correctly when running a 1/10 scale vehicle.

Oh yes, on the high/low frequency thing. A higher frequency ESC will give you better throttle control. They have more "steps" between low and high throttle to make the power delivery smoother. Equalize a low frequeny ESC to a mechanical speed control..............not as much control.

I really can't recommend the Spike after using it for a half dozen races or so. The problem is setting the high speed screw. It has to be set so that maximum output coincides with full throttle on the transmitter. The last race, I turned my transmitter throttle end point down to 80%. My car didn't go any slower, but all of a sudden I had part throttle control.

Ovalman is right about the F 230CR. I haven't used this in a BRP, but in other cars, it has a good price/performance ratio. The easy set up, and reverse for practice and playing around, make it easily worth the $20-25 over a Spike.

Nil

I know I am a relative newcomer to the BRP world but after getting my batteries the other day and messing around for a couple of hours, I can highly recomend the Duratrax ESC-100. They are only making them for a limited time (Supposedly) and right now at tower they throw in some free cones. For $32, it's inexpensive with alot of control over the speed settings.

I really like my Futaba MC230 for it's smoothness and price (under $50)AND it's tiny size. It seems to work very well in 1/18 scale and it can be used in 1/10 scale with motors with at least 20 turns. Duratrax's ESC-100(made by Futaba)is very similar and at $33 it's a great deal, just alittle larger than the MC230. The Blast is alittle bigger yet and sells for around $40 but they'll all work fine in your BRP.
I do recommend a reversing ESC though, you can't beat reverse when you're playing and you have to be your own corner marshall.
Higher frequency is supposed to run cooler,last longer and be faster, but I doubt you'll really notice much difference in the models mentioned here when you squeeze the trigger.
Send us some pix of your paint jobs.

Looks like the Duratrax/Futaba Esc is what I am looking for... I don't suppose you can lock out reverse, can you?

Well, I ran my Oval Outlaws today and was having steering issues. I suspect that the linkages aren't "tight" enough on the steering. Looks like the last owner also didn't trim the bodies well near the wheel wells, so, the foams have a groove in them! Would this cause steering issues too? I have adjusted the steering trim but am still having trouble in the turns.

The other thing I noticed is that the stock blue compound doesn't seem to grip well. One of the cars spun out easily with small turn adjustments. Also, they seem to have trouble tracking on right turns. Is it possible that they have been both optimized for left turn Stock type racing? Any suggestions on tires for semi-smooth asphalt? The track is in a parking lot, although permanent, and has been sprayed with that black parking lot treatment I have seen in other parking lots. I just got in some orange foams, green foams and the HPI hub adapters and am anxious to try differend setups. But anyone with parking lot experience could save me some time with suggestions...

I will probably put together my Sc18's soon and am using the older cars to test things out and learn how to drive better. I have the extra power magnets and the big block adapter. I plan on trying these out after I solve the tire issue.

Thanks for the advice guys!

Chris

I don't know about the Duratrax/Futaba ESC, but the MC230 has reverse lock out.

A lot of racers around here replace the wire linkage with ball joints & turn buckles. I'm about to try that myself because of the slop. Most of it is in the wire/servo saver joint, though, not the wire/steering block joints. A new servo saver may save the effort.

Nil

You can lock out reverse on the MC230 but I don't think you can on the ESC-100. Not really an issue anyway.
Alittle slop in the linkages is no big deal, but the tires cannot rub on the body ESPECIALLY when you turn. Adjust the steering trim so it goes in a straight line when you're not turning the wheel.
The thing to check when running the older style (black) chassis is tweak. That will make it spin out more when you turn in one direction than the other.
Check out my Pit Tip page for more info on tweak:
http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/BRPittips.html
Are you running the rear differential? That makes quite a difference. The SC18 chassis also makes a BIG difference in cornering and it's more bullet proof.
Sealed asphalt can be very slippery - try some rubber tires if the SC18 is still loose.

K1m,

Yes, you described it exactly. It has to be tweak then! ;-) Would tweak also cause turns in the opposite direction of the spin out to not be sharp enough?

So, slop isn't that big of a deal then? Is there no real benefit in tightening the linkage? If not, I will leave the SOO's alone. I don't want to try rubber on these either as I will save the hubs and tires for my SC18's. Sounds like I need to put my SC18's together then!

K1m, thanks for the advice as always! ;-) Nil, thanks for the advice as well. I don't have a servo saver on there yet. Should I? Will this help keep the linkages closer to correct?

Thanks again guys!

Chris

ancientsgamer>> Don't worry about the slop in the front end steering it will make the car run smoother. You should get that servo saver however.
There is really no comparision from the old cars to the SC18 chassis the new ones are way better :p

Hey guys, I know there was a discussion on this before but I am still not clear. If I don't want to dip the engine, what do I do?

Bud's instructions were a little confusing to me. I ended up running the engine on low then med then high for around 15 mins and then let it run on high for a little while longer. Am I doing any harm?

From what everyone has said, the engines tend to get a little faster as they get older so I am hoping that if I didn't do it right that the car will right itself over time.

I am ordering a few more cars though, so next time what should I do?

Madd Matt

When an electric motor is new the ends of the brushes that rub on the commutator are pretty much square with only a small portion of the brush actually touching the comm. After the motor is run awhile, the ends of the brushes become curved to match the comm's surface. The larger surface will allow better contact between the brush and comm, and the motor will be stronger.
If you want to speed up this process, you can dip the motor in a glass of water with it hooked up to a 3 or 4 cell battery pack for a couple of seconds. It only takes a quick dip, and you can tell if it's done by checking the ends of the brushes to see if they curve all the way across the face.
Or...........just run it!

The best method is to water dip but you can just run it also. The only problem with just running the motor is that it takes dang near forever it seems to break in the brushes. I don't think you really did anything wrong but I bet if you take out the brushes you'll notice that they aren't hardly "conformed" to the commutator.

Do you guy's have any preferance as far as bodies? I ordered an sc18 w/ the truck body ( I still question why I did that ):rolleyes:. When I order my ball diff i will get another body, but don't know which one. I really like the porsche and ferarri. I will be the only one running a BRP car in a feild of micro's:devil:.

The truck body is the toughest of all the BRP bodies I have ever ran/ tested, the thing just feels like it will never crack. It also doen't handle too badly and is easy to add a spoiler to for extra rear traction. I personally think it may be the best body Bud offers.

Bolink Boy most of us run the vette body,but the truck body works very well too. I think its just a matter of personal tastes.:D

Bolink Boy>>> The sal S-7 is hot it looks like a micro body so when you whoop on them they will think it's a $900.00 micro :eek:

Originally posted by BoLink Boy
Do you guy's have any preferance as far as bodies?
A small piece of advice: The GTP body doesn't give you much room to fit everything in. One of the guys at the track says that he thought it had too much downforce, too.

Nil

Hey Bud, who is coming to Classic's the 20th? Hopefully we will have enough for a "A" and a "B" main.

Hey Guys, I just found out that Classic's has a web site.:thumbsup: Here it is: www.classichobbiesraceway.com Check it out.

mariop>>> I know of 4 myself, Don D, Don S and Tony the great. Should be a pretty good turnout at the BRP race on the 4th of May.

As you can see, we pretty much "run what we brung" here in Pa. But I'm pretty fond of the wedge body #201 even on my Fun Won. It leaves just enough room for normal sized electronics and a transponder under the body, and a low center of gravity. That wedge nose comes in mighty handy too, when you're "drafting" a car ahead of you! :D
http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/belch.jpg

can't seem to post pic, go here:
http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/belch.jpg

Originally posted by marioparnelli
Hopefully we will have enough for a "A" and a "B" main.

My son and I will volunteer for the B main.

Classic even posted the BRP results from the last time.

Nil

Bud,:wave: , I plan to be at your place May 4th. What pit stuff should we bring, tables and chairs, tents, extension cords, etc?

Bud,

At Classic on the 20th will we be able to use rubber wheels?

Thanks
:roll:

Micro-Racer >>> Yes you can use rubber tires. They seemed to work pretty well there.

MarioP>>> Bring all your usual outdoor stuff. I will have electric but bring a long extension.
Looks like we will have alot of people there maybe even Chuck :wave:

I just got a catalog from Batteries America and they have custom packs available that have 8,10 or 12 cell AA packs in any configuration. If I did a double high pack, could I use 8 or 10 cells?

has anyone tried this?

what was the result?

Madd Matt

MaddMatt >>> TOO much weight :eek:

Bud, I just placed my order for the stock car body and the diff. I think the local oval guys will get a kick out of this thing! -Adam

Check out my BRP page...under the news I have hop-up tips


http://home.attbi.com/~michael.elwood/RC_Home.html

:thumbsup:

this link will work better if you cut and past into browser

Micro nice page. Did you race at the Brat?

2Slow00

I did race at the brat....but only the last 2 races. Just moved to Cleveland....when are the next NORCAR races and where?

Micro

Norcar dosen't have a summer schedule yet. They may not run until fall. Are you racing at Classic on the 20th? We had a great time our last race there.