K1M>>> It should fit right out the back of the pod! Thats how I do it.
Will put a link on for the new Saleen S7 body as soon as Hank gets it on the web site.

A pic of the new body is on-line. Find it at http://www.brpracing.com/262.html

Hey BRP racers we have a new Body go to the link above to check it out!
Also coming are inner wheels that will allow you to use the HPI Micro RS4 outer wheels and rubber tires on your SC18. The standard Micro tires work fine on ashphlat and seem like they will wear real well. I will let you all know when these will be ready http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by BudBartos:
Hey BRP racers we have a new Body go to the link above to check it out!
</font>

Bud:

Judging by the response times, your server is taking some heavy hits with your new body. Looks good, except the CV is a hard act to follow.

Are you going to have one Sunday in the flesh ?

Can't wait to see it.

Nil

NIL&gt;&gt;&gt; I will have them at the race http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif

We had another good turnout for the BRP 1/18th cars today I beleive 23 racers.
The new Saleen body worked very well and looks great to. I also tested the wheel hub adapters thes are inner wheels that go on the BRP car and allow you to use the HPI Micro outer wheels, they just push on. Hope to have those ready to shipp by the end of this week.

I know it's more than just one thing (magnets) but K1M has his car HAULLLLIN' baby! New track record today, plastering the 33 lap previous record with a 35/5:08.18. He let me drive his car and man is that thing not only FAST but handles like a dream. Don and myself had to settle for second and third respectivly with the other half of Team Fortner (Joy) finishing fourth. The remaining finishers were The Cook, Carpetburner, and Cory. Fairly light turnout of BuRPs today but the racing was still great.

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by OvalmanPA:
K1M has his car HAULLLLIN' baby! </font>

Get him over to Bratenahl. I'd like to see Bud challenged for once. The guy is TOO good. Claims his car is box stock, and I believe him. The driving is just smooooooth. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif

Nil

K1M where do you race at? Maybe something can be worked out, we come to your track, you come to our track. What do you think?

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by DanMedved:
K1M where do you race at? Maybe something can be worked out, we come to your track, you come to our track. What do you think?
</font>

How about neutral ground. Bud's talking about going to Classic in Akron Saturday. But that finishes up pretty late for folks driving back to PA.

Nil

DanMedved...K1M races at my track, Racers Edge R/C Racing & Hobbies (http://users.penn.com/~morg/track.html) in Smethport, Pa. We've talked before about a little grudge match between us and the guys that race over across the border to our left but that's about all the farther it's gone. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif It's a long haul for either us to go there or those guys to come here unfortunatly.

I think K1M could give ol' Bud a run for his money right now though. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/tongue.gif

Bud: I feel kinda dumb about asking how to get the motors out but I'm glad I did, you're right - they fit right out the back of the pod. Sure makes my life easier! Heheheh! I tried to get it out thru the top and bottom hole AND the back, but didn't think it fit. The enlarged hole in the top plate makes soldering on the wires easier.


I gave the new XP Super power magnets #432 a try this week. More torque, more speed, cooler motor...they were a snap to change too. I practiced on an old motor first, but just push the old magnets out one at a time - replace one then do the other (leave the clips alone) and be sure to put the white marked one on the side of the can with the arrow.
I tried replacing the magnets on an old "Deathstar" with disappointing results.
But when I put a set in a new green endbell motor it really created a beast!

I swear my BuRP is all stock....I'd like to put a bearing on the spur gear side of the rear axle, but it's all bushings and only occasional maintenance. I've run this car about a year now and I can say with zero broken parts. And I've RACED it pretty hard and had a ball with it.

You can't get more R/C fun for your money than 1/18 scale racing!

http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/wavingflag.gif

Dan & Nil: I'd like nothing better than to share a drivers stand with you guys someday. Who knows - stranger things have happened. I drove clear to Fla. to see Lake Whipporwill and ended up getting some track time, but that's another story.......

K1M &gt;&gt; sound good! That is the best way I have found to do the magnets also.

TOO ALL BRP RACES&gt;&gt;&gt; We are going to Classic hobbies to run Oval sat nite shop opens at 2:00 racing starts at 6:00.

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by BudBartos:
We are going to Classic hobbies to run Oval sat nite .</font>

Sounds good; not sure if I can make it but I'll try. Talking to the guy at Mentor Hobbytown yesterday; he's going to be there.

Nil

I was contacted by TV-8 yesterday they liked what thay saw last sunday when WOIO took some footage of our race, I called back left message, I'll keep you informed.
NORCAR

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by BudBartos:
We are going to Classic hobbies to run Oval sat nite </font>

And a great time was had by all. It's a big (190 feet) banked carpet oval ( http://www.classichobbiesraceway.com/ ). Eleven BRPs and two HPIs made it. And now, we know: A good driver with an HPI can beat the worst driver with a slow BRP. Both the HPIs were in the B main with me, while the other ten BRPs ran in the A main. And, the HPI that managed to run through the whole race beat me, very badly, I might add.

Bud did his usual excellent driving, but showed us something that may get into production. He put together some pod side plates to fit an Orion "Big Block" for the HPI into the BRP. He ran it in one of the qualifiers and it really WHOMPED!. It was a bit squirrely with all that power; Bud said it would be a real problem with the normal indoor carpet courses but should be lots of fun for parking lot bashing.

Nil

Nil... I had a great time at Classics last night. It was nice to run into you again and again and again http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/tongue.gif There must have been a huge magnet in are cars the way are cars kept finding each other! Sorry about that. Thanks to Walt of Classic's Hobbys for fitting us in when he already had a big crowd. I know it was a long night for him. It just goes to show, even a old _art like me can have BIG fun with a little car!!

[This message has been edited by marioparnelli (edited 02-24-2002).]

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by marioparnelli:
Nil... I had a great time at Classics last night. It was nice to run into you again and again and again http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/tongue.gif There must have been a huge magnet in are cars the way are cars kept finding each other! Sorry about that. </font>


No hard feelings over lots of hard bumps. It was strange how you & I kept meeting, though. Odds favor a newbie like me taking out more people.
Nil

Sounds like you guys had a good time. I had to work yesterday and would have gotten out there too late. Maybe another time.
See ya guys sunday.

A great time as had by all. Bud is the 18th scale carpet oval and onroad World Champion. Sporty its good to see you hooked up with Howard to form a unique racing team. Orange and white for life eh!

I am starting out fresh with no gear, would like to use my radio for more than one car, and maybe raceing later would AM surfice or should I go FM? I know its overkill for a BuRP but looking at the Futab 2PHKA or the Hitec Lynx FM. Second question is chargers thinking the new MRC Super Brain 959 looks like it will charge any batterys I will ever have. Third at one time I saw someone selling the green battery packs "kryptonite?" but cant find it now, any help? Thanks in advance. Love the new forum.

10 BuRPs lined up again this week but when it was over only one other mini racer was able to get into the "30 lap club" with me. KaneSurfGuru bounced his way around the course behind me with Don a close 3rd. Joy won the battle for 4rd with Mike (they're both fast)while Johna and Barb had their own battle going for 6th and 7th. Rick (Ovalman) went out early - I have an idea maybe his T-plate came loose. Ben was 9th and I'm afraid our newest racer, Buddy wasn't able to make the main. I tried to help him dial in his car earlier but he uses a stick radio. Other than setting the trims, it hard to say how it handles when I am so "stick impaired" - or "wheel dependent". Gotta get over that so I can drive my Battlebot someday!

http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/vw.gif


[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 02-25-2002).]

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by jscharwath:
I am starting out fresh with no gear, would like to use my radio for more than one car, and maybe raceing later would AM surfice or should I go FM? </font>

I can help with the first question, maybe someone will hop in on the others.

One transmitter will do fine, but with the hassle of changing receivers, I'd recommend getting a second receiver. The servo tape used to put them on isn't too terrible to take off, but time consuming. And, if the mounting surface is dirty, it will come off too easily. So, it's better not to try to take it off more than necessary. You'll likely find yourself driving one car just because it has the receiver in it.

Second issue, now that you have two receivers, you'll find that the trim settings for the two of them are not the same. It's unlikely that you can either of them to run dead straight without a little tweak on the transmitter adjustment, this is called trim. And the trim that makes one of them go straight will make the other one turn, when you want it to go straight.

There are two answers for this: Buy an expensive, computerized radio set that allows you to store the trim settings for individual cars. Or, for fewer bucks, buy two seperate sets.

I have done both. My son and I each got a low dollar Futaba set, and when we decided to "double our fun," I got a high dollar JR set and he uses the two Futabas. That way, we can all have trim settings for both our cars.

As far as FM or AM goes, I'd say, if you're just starting out, get AM for the cost. No sense in sinking big bucks into something you may be tired of in a year or so.

For that matter, consider starting with just one car. Two cars are likely to be overwhelming to start with. Try to find out what other people race (or just run) in the area and "go with the flow." Having experienced R/Cers around can be a big help when you're beginning.

Nil

JS: A cheap AM radio is all thats needed for mini racing. If you decide to use 2 recievers, make sure you mount the servo the same way in both cars so you don't have to reverse one. If your radio has multi-model memorys, no problem. Not sure about the Super Brain charger.....I'd get one that you can set the charge rate from .50 - 5.00 Amps.

You can get Kryptonite AA's by contacting John Rezzelle at:

kanesurfguru@starband.net


I know it's for a Micro, but check this Porsche out...........
http://www.jsbodies.com/micro001.jpg

jscharwath

I think most of the people at our track race more than one vehicle and there are only a few with FM models (me not being one of them either). If you do want the added security of FM then I'd say either of the models you asked about would work well but I've always been kind of partial to Futaba.

I can't honestly recommend the 959 charger for charging either. We got 2 of them at our track to sell and the one that has been sold has now been sent back for repairs and didn't work right from the beginning. This may be a fluke but it doesn't set a very good first impression. I'd check into one of the Duratrax chargers to do your charging. They seem to be pretty nice units.

And finally like K1M said, contact John Rezzelle for the "BuRP" cells to have. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif

K1M....actually, I had a set of crystals go bad. First time that has ever happened.

If you want to run 2 cars and don't want to buy 2 radios just get the JR XR2, it is an AM computerized radio that has 2 model memory, and works with Futaba recievers and crystals. So you can get the radio for $99 and then order a Futaba 2pc radio set for $45... You will have 2 recievers, 2 sets of crystals and 4 servos, not to mention an extra radio just incase.... all for under $150.

For chargers I would get the best you can afford... see if you can find someone selling a mellinuim on one of the swap and sell boards, you can usually pick one up for around $75 and you will never need another charger.

Just a thought.

Impact- your post about the JR XR2 caught my eye. I have a question regarding the inter changeability of the crystals. Do you use the Futaba crystal in the receiver only? My Local Hobby store said he didn't think I could use the Futaba crystals in the transmitter. Secondly, assuming you own a XR2, how do you like it?

Thank you,
AEracer

Have been lurking on this site for a few days and have been convinced in buying an SC18. I am new to the hobby as I haven't kept up in a few years. I have an HPI Nitro Racer (2WD) but never got past the rolling chassis stage as time constraints don't allow me to go to the track on a regular basis and nitro is not condusive to practicing at home!

I have some questions regarding what I should buy. Here is my initial list, please review and comment if you will. I really am not well versed in RC!

SC18 with stock car body
Motor upgrade magnets #432
Hidden antenna kit
Ball differential kit
6 Cell BRP battery pack
Orange tire kit for asphalt

I have a JR XR2 but will probably sell it with my HPI as I think I will get more $ for it (correct me if I am wrong!) I would still need an esc though.

Any suggestions as to radio and esc?
Any that are sold together?
I know that regular servos are fine but wouldn't I be better off getting a micro servo because of weight?
I am worried about interferance with AM, should I get an FM system? 27 or 75 MHZ?

I have read some of the posting on chargers. Being that I am fairly ignorant on chargers and batteries, am I better off getting one of the newer digital auto chargers? Would you recommend some in particular?

I am in San Antonio and the only track that I know of is the Hobbytown outdoor track. Mostly 1/10 scale nitro and electrics but they do have an HPI micro class (don't know if I can bring a BRP yet) Is anyone on this list from San Antonio?

Thanks!

Chris

(who is not really old but like to wargame as well as other hobbies....)

[This message has been edited by ancientsgamer (edited 02-27-2002).]

Chris&gt;&gt; You have the right idea on all the BRP parts. FM radios have less glitching troubles but of course cost slightly more.
A faster servo is better but if you go with a small one use a servo saver. Chargers get on that you can adjust current on.
Hope they let you run the BRP cars, but don't beat them by too much http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif
We will have optional wheel hubs that will allow you to use the Micro outer wheels and rubber tires for ashpalt. They should be on web site next week #361

Ancient: Welcome to 1/18 Scale Racing!
The Futaba MC230CR is a tiny reversing ESC that works great in BRP's. You can get a Futaba 2PC Sport W/MC230CR for $85 or the 2PCKA Magnum W/MC230CR for $100.
I have had no trouble at all running with 9 other racers with AM 75 MHZ.
Check out the Duratrax line of intellipeak chargers, they start at $55. You'll want to be able to charge AA's at 1-2 Amps.
Take Bud's advise and buy a servo saver. And don't whoop on those micros too bad, they might not let you play again! http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/biggrin.gif
Here's a link to my Mini R/C website and my pit tips page:
http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/BuRPhome.html
http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/BRPittips.html

Bud: Speaking of links, how about a link to my site from brpracing.com? Maybe I could put a bug in your webmaster's ear.......Hehehhe!

I have actually owned 2 JR XR2 radios, YES I use the futaba crystals all around, even in the transmitter and have not one problem with glitching. Only at the high school we race at occasionally....but that is a high CB radio area, with many power lines, and lots of RF security systems and all the AM radios glitch occasionally.... BAD example because this place is a one in one-hundred thousand place...LOL I love the XR2, I origionally got rid of my first one when I got my Mars EX-1, and thought I would never need one agian, then my wife got into BRP's and I knew she needed a radio so she could race me. (nobody touches my ex-1...LOL) So when I weighted the options we got another XR2, for $20 more and all the options, there are was no question in my mind.....

I am in no way trying to get you to leave this great discussion, but if you want to see some 1/18th scale fireworks, go to the On-Road and look for CRL - Toledo Edition. Major discussions going on about the HPI vs. BRP vs. Reilly Innovations.

Its cool
SS

Thanks for the help guys!

Of course, I have a couple of other questions... ;-)

The duratrax chargers state that you shouldn't charge anything smaller than a "sub-C" size, aren't AA's smaller?
see this link:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXUF46&P=7

I guess I am still at a loss on the chargers. I want something easy to use and I assume that a charger is something that is worth investing in. I like the idea that these chargers can peak charge, switch to trickle auto and that they can do Nimh batteries too. Any advice on chargers is most appreciated!

I think I will take the suggestion on AM for now and move up later. I think the beauty of the BRP is lots of bang for the buck! (thanks Bud!)


Thanks again to all that have responded!

Chris


[This message has been edited by ancientsgamer (edited 02-28-2002).]

Right, that is what I had read not to be used for smaller than sub-c cells, is this bunk for all of you that have used them? I thought that if it would charge at .5 to 1 amp and at 7.2volts that the cell size would not matter. By the way I would like to only buy 1 charger to use for everything radio, car, NiCd NiMh ect. Can you use the cars battery pack to run the reciver ,fatuba mc230cr, or whill I need a reciver pack?

thanks for all the replies.

Is there anyone on the list close to me? I am in Hattiesburg Mississippi close to gulf coast.

With todays reciever they have a special curcuit that is called BEC or Batter eliminator cuircut. You will not need a reciever pack, nor will you have todo any fancy wiring.Just plug it in and go. Only nitro vehicles need reciever battery packs.

Ancient: I checked out your link and I believe they are referring to not using the discharge feature on anything other than
sub-c cells. As long as you can turn the current (charge rate) down to .50a - 2.00a you should be able to charge AA's. And being able to charge up to 8 cells is nice because then you can charge your radio AA's too. If you're going to play with electric R/C then a good charger is indeed a good investment. Peak is the only way to go, adjustable charge rate, NiMH capable is too. And digital displays are nice too.

JS: Most newer radios do not require you to use a reciever battery, it will use your car's pack as long as you're using an Electronic Speed Control.

SecretSquirrel: thanx for the heads-up on the On-Road discussion. The CRL sounds like it's having some 1/18 scale growing pains. I think keeping it simple and fun is important. My bet is they'll have to make two classes to keep everyone happy.

I'd like to know more about the Reilly Innovation cars, is there a website?

K1M,

Well, I went to the Duratrax site and it states: Can IntelliPeak chargers be used to charge discharge AA nicads?

"The IntelliPeak series chargers with the discharge feature should not be used to discharge battery packs that are smaller that Sub-C's." http://www.duratrax.com/faq/product-faq.html#q485

So you were right! I will just have to use something like a Dean's discharger I suppose.

Looks like Tower Hobbies will be losing sales until they update the description of the Intellipeak chargers.

I have decided to keep my JR XR2 and use it for my buds car. I don't have it in front of me but I am hping it has a BEC on it. You wouldn't happen to know how long BEC's have been on receivers would you? I think this is a 1998 unit... Oh well, I will check when I get home...

Thanks for the help!

Chris

PS. Here is a link to a review of the Intellipeak: http://www.wildhobbies.com/rc_cars/reviews/Default.asp?cmd=view&articleid=39

[This message has been edited by ancientsgamer (edited 03-01-2002).]

We dicharge our AA's with 2 tail light bulbs. I think BRP sells one or you can make your own.

2Slow000, Thanks for the advice.

Bud, a question: if the HPI Micro Viper fits your SC18, does this mean that any 140mm from HPI should fit? I think the Porsche is the same size and I was curious if it would fit.

This is what Tower says: "COMMENTS: This body matches the measurements of the Viper body." "The included spoiler is not the traditional Whale-Tail, but more like a GT style wing."

Maybe my question is already answered with this quote?

Bud, do you need your mounting kit for these? If not, what specifically are your SC18 body mounting kits for?

Now, I need to figure out motors... I have read the posts and I am assuming that you have slot car type motors? 16D if I am not mistaken..... Now, what other types can you use? Can you use a similar one to the HPI micro and the HPI micro hopup motors from other companies? If so, any type of adapter needed?

Bud, thanks so much for the answers you have already given!

Chris

anciantsgamer&gt;&gt; Our bodies will work on the 140mm Micro but the Micro bods may not work on the SC18 they make them all different widths.You should be able to use the stock mounts that come in the kits, we sell the mounting kit if you need extra rear and front mounts.
The motor that we use in the SC18 is faster than the Micro motor and even the HPI Mod motor. We are coming out with a conversion rear pod that will let you use the Orion Big Block motor in the SC18 and this motor is way fast. I hope to have this part on the web site next week along with our new wheel hubs that will let you use Micro outer wheels on the BRP car.

Can someone please tell me the size of the hex driver I need for the BRP wheel set screws? I need to order another one... Is it a 1.5 mm?

Thanks!

Paul

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by thewog:
Can someone please tell me the size of the hex driver I need for the BRP wheel set screws? </font>

0.05 inch. You should be able to pick one up at any hardware store, auto parts, etc., (at least you can on this side of the Great Lakes) but you may have to buy a whole set. In hobby shops, it's often labelled as "4-40 set screw" size.

Nil

[This message has been edited by Nil (edited 03-03-2002).]

Great turn out today at Bratenahl. Twenty BRPs going at it; just two mains, so the track was a bit crowded.

Waiting to hear how our errant children fared in the west. Didja whomp'em, Bud?

WANTED: People to show up for the TV-8 morning show, we will need racers to run there cars during the morning show between 6:30 & 9:00am one day durning the week (I'll let you know the date). I need to know if we can get some people to show up for this.
The track will be set-up the night before & I'll take it down that evening.
If you can show up please let me know.
Thanks

NIL&gt;&gt; I finished second was in the led two turns fron the finish and came up a a slower car, so I fig. I would just follow to the line and wham ##$%$%^^ next thing I'm in the wall http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/frown.gif We had a good time with 13 cars racing no Micros guess they ran out of $$ buying all those parts http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif. I'm going to try some 2/3A cells thats what three of the guys were running and I think they have more power.

We had 8 cars this week to throw down on the carpet at RER/CR&H (http://www.racersedgerc.com) with our first look at an HPI micro. Justin has decided to be the first um, "sucker" to try out an RS4 micro. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif He had real problems not only trying to keep it wheels side down but keeping the pinion on also. As always K1M came out on top followed closely by Don, each with 31 laps. We only have 3 weeks remaining in our indoor season and I'm really going to miss the BuRP racing until we get started outdoors this summer. This may only be a bragging rights class at our track but it is still the most fun to be had with your clothes on! http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/biggrin.gif

[This message has been edited by OvalmanPA (edited 03-04-2002).]

Motor Questions:

Bud, sorry if this is a bother! I read your post to my previous one about motors (thanks!!). I know that the stock motor in your cars is a 16D slot car style, are the big block motors like Orion has C-can slot car motors(if not, what size are they)? If so, shouldn't I be able to buy a slot car motor as long as I use your big block bracket you say you are coming out with?

Assuming that my above assumptions are correct, what are the specs to look for in a slot car motor? Is there an input voltage, amperage and RPM range to look for? Will too much RPM be counter-productive?

I used to have fun with my slot cars in my younger days and have had a peak around the web for slot car news and such. It surprised me how much info there is and how far slot cars have come! There are a wealth of 16D and C can motors out there. Frankly, Orion's prices leave a lot to be desired for their motors. I suspect that they are relabling other maker's motors with their brand name.

I hope I haven't thrown too many questions at you!

Thanks!!

Chris