Brian
I would like to first thank you for all the information you have provided. It's great to see people like you pass on this information.

I have a question dealing with foam tire selection. Do you pick your tires based on durameter readings or color? I have found some blue tires with softer readings than green tires.
If a tire has the same durameter reading but different colors will they work the same with one wearing more than the other?
I have used different colors on the rear to free the car up coming off the corners on big tracks before.
Kinda an open ended question I guess.

Thanks

DOM- there is no harm in using those as long as they dont bind the front end up..you can pretty much use whatever you can get away with but they sound like they will work fine...as far as the longer arm another thing that it does is actually soften the spring just a tad because its actually a longer lever so it has more leverage on the spring. I was running a Keyence zeroV extreme at the snowbirds.

bbr- give me call at work if you still have the number...give me the scoop.

10nastruck- this is a tough question because different colors of foams are in different "families" a blue that durometers softer than a green is not a blue anymore because its in the same family that green is in...i do pick my tires by color normally because JACO tires are very consistent and we usually have a pretty good idea of what we need when we go to a track...very rarely do we run blues or greens because you get tires like blacks that have similar bite but much less rolling resistance because they are harder...same with purples,pinks,etc....depending on the type of track you might want to try like black fronts a black right rear and a white left rear....these tires wear very well and are much faster than blues and greens.

Billy, HOLY SMOKES!!!! You had the Oval thing going so good. If I can help in any way let me know. See ya at the races. :confused:

I finally got to run my carpet pro.ran the same setup as my l30
with the setup brian gave.I think the center is too soft.extremely
loose center off (awesome in).also seems unstable in the straights,maybe too much pod sag??(would that do it?)
anybody have a suggestion on piston,shock oil,spring for flat carpet
155 foot drive line 12' infield.I also have t plate setup from mac attack would this work better?

impact- when you run the bearing supported pod you have to stiffen the car up alot in the back compared to a standard t-bar car. you might want to try and go a step stiffer on the front springs to get the car the UP on the carpet...this will help it not be as darty in the straightways...the problem ive experienced with short wheelbase cars is you cant be as aggresive with the setup becasue the car is very unstable. i would also try the standard t-bar pod too...this may help your problem as well.

Brian I race at K&N and Manchester hobbies, K&N is K&N and manchester is a 115 ft flat oval,we are starting a 4cell stock class at both, I have noticed that all the expert advice is aimed at flat track set ups, my question is this, Is it a general rule that on flat tracks one should run stiff side shocks and moderate to soft center shock, t-plate combination and on banked tracks one should run stiff center shock /t-plate and soft side shocks?

Thanks in advance Rich DeCapio

Impact.....if you run the bearing rear end i suggest you to start with the ASS TC3 blue spring in the center..and if you feel it was too soft go with a ASS TC3 gold spring..

when i use this rear end i use these 2 springs to tune my car!!

Pace:devil:

Rich- what your saying is somewhat true about that type of a starting point but unfortunately the same thinking is not applied to all banked tracks....K&N for instance we used to run very soft side to side but not very stiff in the center because they dont use ozite carpet...at akron last week we ran very stiff side to side and VERY stiff in the center...most flat track setups will transfer from one to the other because they all at least are flat and you cant use the track and physics to help the car go thru the corners...banked tracks have different characteristics because of the degrees of banking,length of the corners etc..

Hey Brian,
Do you use tire wear as an indicator of chassis set-up? At one track I run at I seem to wear the right front a lot. The car is fast, lap times are good,and I'm in the "A". The car is an ADX 4-cell 19turn, grey Trc rears, black BSR RF, green BSR LF, 0.018 front springs, copper left side shock, red right side shock,both with 30wt oil,HPI center shock 60 wt oil with blue Assc TC spring , double slot steel t-plate, pod staight up, batteries all the way back and out, and Pontiac Grand Prix HD with no wing. On the scales the car will have either equal weight on the fronts or slightly heavier on the RF. I'm thinking the LF isn't doing enough work and the car could even be faster but, I'm not sure if this is a problem since the car is already fast or is there something I should change? Also, are you going to be at Willow Mill for their opener?

Thanks,

Tom

Hurricane Pace thank you!!I tried the setup brian suggested but still twitch.I'm getting a little discouraged with the car,I've spent hours throwing things at it but it still doesnt work!!what weight oil you running??,piston?i'm running new irs caster mount lf flat rf angled.Ibelieve the blue spring is 17lbs what is the gold?any other setup advice for the car would be appreciated!!!

Tome57, It sound like a few things could be going on. One is if the car is pushing through the corner your going to wear out your RF tire. Try taking some tweek out of the car. Then if the car gets loose in the rear take a turn or two off the center spring and that will add a little hook up back into it. Two could be too stiff on the RF spring. Go equal up front or even softer on the RF. The final thing you try would be a Double Blue or Double Black RF tire. Put a harder tire up there. You could also try a harder RR tire to loosen the car up. Remember to try one thing at a time so you know what change did what to your car. Good Luck

Rick Liehr

Rick - I have 0.018 springs up front on both sides. I had a 0.020 on the LF but when I went to the 0.018 I had better steering. The car doesn't push. I set the tweak so I just start to get loose when I exit the turn and then turn in the right rear adjuster 1/4 turn. I was thinking of going to white rears and take tweak out to get it to turn but I don't know if the softer tires will slow me down. I think the better option is to go with a softer center shock spring and take tweak out until I get about 1-2 ounces on my LF. The thing is the car feels dialed, but I want to try to get more out of it.

Thanks,

Tom

HI-BRIAN,With your ft. end setup would it be better to place a b3 kingpin on l.h.side & wolfe on r.h. side too many shims on l.h. top.

Brian will you making the trip to Seaford on June 8th?

brian i wanted to thank you for taking the time to post on this thread.the info has been very helpful.

tome57-your car is fast enough,you do not need anymore speed:wave: where are you racing this weekend(sat.)?

impact- I have not run any carpet in a very long time. I live by the bearing pod on my hyperdrive. I mainly run on flat asphalt tracks. I run 30wt oil in all three shocks. I use asc. red shock spings on the sides and a orange wolf sping on the center. I still use a delta shock in the center. Hope this helps.

Troy

Brian,
I noticed at Akron, people were spraying their motors
with a freeze spray. What does it do and does it work?

Randy:cool:

impact

for the center shock start with the piston#1 with 60wt..

for the IRS caster mount, start with- left: middle and out
right: low and in

if you run the set-up of Brian for the side spring, and you feel that your car still tweachy to drive, you can try a gold spring for the left side shock.

if the TC3 blue is 17lbs i think the gold is 19lbs(one step harder than the blue one).

Pace :devil:

Hurricane Pace
Thank you the setup works great.just a tick slower than my l3 now but i belive i can get it better!!The car seems a little loose off,maybe try the offset pod??what amount of shimming do you recommend for stock hubs?
thank again.

How often do you rematch your batteries and do you do your own? I am having trouble finding someone to rematch my batteries. Can you recommend someone?

sorry for the delay guys. my internet was down yesterday.

TOME- i dont always guage car setup on tire wear...depending on the track you will always get different tire wear and every track different tires will wear differently...instead of going to white rears across the back you may want to try a black right rear and a white left rear or even the new JACO gray rear..also having you batteries way back will wear your right front out more ...try sliding your battery up...i always run my batteries as far forward as possible without the car getting loose coming of the corner. most people dont realize it but if you cvan get the left front working alomost as much as the right front the car will turn much better in the center of the corner and wont get loose coming off. im not sure about Willow Mill...can you tell me when it is?

Impact- dont give up on your car...you are doing the right things by trying different setups...what you might want to try is actually starting from ground zero...rebuild your car even if you dont think something is wrong...measure everything and make sure your wheelbase is the same side to side...sometimes by doing this you can find or cure a problem that you didnt know even existed.

DOM- you can run the B3 kingpin but its not necessary...the extra shims wont hurt anything.

Jason- i think im going to that race as far as i know...should be a fun race.

Jman- no problem...glad its helped.

XXX- quite honestly i dont think it does anything but again i dont race stock very often...i saw some guys doing it in 19 turn but when ive run 19 turn ive never used that spray...what it does is actually freeze the motor to keep the temp down in the motor for a bit.

Oval- i dont do any rematching of batteries...if i need to get it done i send them to SMC which is the battery company that i run for...send him an email and he can give you some info on getting it done thru him...his website is SMC-RACING.com

Impact- if you slide the left rear in on the standard pod it will tighten the car up coming off...also the offset pod will help as well. also try and bring the right rear closer to the pod and that will help the car drive off the corner better.

Brian,
Thanks for the info. Good luck the rest of the
year.:thumbsup:

Randy

OK I

Sorry about that, What I was going to say is that I have a Adrenaline 10 car and I have never had it on the track. I will be running modified on a 135 center line carpet oval track. I have no ideal what to start out with for tires compounds. Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks!! :rolleyes:

Bob Cole -- For Pontoon, I think the guys with Adrenalines tend to run BSR blue rears or JACO Aqua's for stock... Fronts tend to be Green left and JACO Black right... This setup is not the same as I run on my ADX or Carpet Pro, but the Adrenaline IS a different beast... (On my cars, I can run the same rear tires, but I have to go to a JACO or TRC Purple RF, and a hard green or normal blue left front...)

Hopefully Mike will post, since he runs an Adrenaline. Of course the new carpet at Ozark will be "slick" until the groove gets laid down...?

The carpet is really good and the cars are sticking from what I hear. I will be running open modified and just do not have a clue what tire combo to use.

You might not remember me but I used to work at Aeromarine along time ago and that is my home track I hope you come you'll like the track I hope.

Hey Brian,
How do you compensate for changing track conditions? This time of year the track temperature changes and affects handling. Yesterday the track was warm from the sun but clouds came in and the mains were run at night so the track temp dropped and the track loosened up. Any suggestions?

Also - Willow Mill opens next Sunday, May 5 www.willowmill.com

Thanks,
Tom

What body would you suggest on a banked (30 deg) concrete oval for 4-cell stock?

When body mounting the wing Is it better to mount the wing at the rear window or further back on the rear deck....

Wouldn't having it further back give it more down force to the rear wheels

You would want the wing on the window. centered from the sides and centered from top to bottom. Having the wing on the deck lid will not do to much. depends on your speend, it could flex the rear of the body defeating the purpose of the wing. But in the window there is alot of support.

Running the wing on the chassie will give you alot more rear bite. It all depend agian on were you are racing and if you cannot achieve enought rear bit.

If you need a little rear bite put the wing on the body......

If you need alot of rear bite put the wing on the chassie......

hope this helps,

Keith Fortier

Originally posted by brians11
What body would you suggest on a banked (30 deg) concrete oval for 4-cell stock?

See what the fast people (top division) suggest at your track

I would go with the ford or the pontiac, both High Down force..

Keith Fortier

I would stay away from a high down force body. You dont need that extra down force on the backed oval. It will just slow the car down. Go with the Ford.

yup ..... that's a good point

Originally posted by Bob Cole
The carpet is really good and the cars are sticking from what I hear. I will be running open modified and just do not have a clue what tire combo to use.

Black fronts black rr rear and white lr,BSRs
Thats what seems to work on almost every carpet track I have ran my adrenalyn on.

Thanks, I ended up with whites on both rears and blacks on both fronts. I tried the black on the right rear but just could not get enough rear bite. I have several changes I need to make with the car. Frist I need to change all my batteries were I can run one cell on the rear pod, then I need to adjust the center shock were I have more froce on the rear pod. I just could never get the rear bite I needed with out putting way to much left tweak in the car. I was running a 12 turn single and seemed to have more than enough horse power but like I said just could not get enough rear bite. At the end of the night I had the car working better and it was real good in the corners but I had way to much left rear tweak in the car and the front left looked like it was lefting a little in the corners. Again thanks for the imput this was the frist time I run modified and it was a rush, I need to learn much more to be competive running mod. I will say this I run HV'S and the SMH and I have to say the Panasonics were better, but Like I said I have a lot to learn in Mod.

Bob Cole

Brian-

I guess this is a good time to ask some questions about tires. Back when I first ran oval it was green dot all the way around and you rotated until they couldn't be used anymore. My question is when do you decide to change compound and what to? Do you try and get the car close with tires and then worry about setup, or do you just run the same tires and change setup, or do you change as traction picks up? Thanks.

if changing from t-plate to bearing pod should you change shock piston?if so to what? i always run #1 with a t-plate or should you bump up the weight of shock oil? thanks in advance.

When racing on a track with a very narrow infield, I run my ADX very stiff and it works very well. When I race on tracks with wider turns, I have a problem with corner speed. The car turns in well and feels good coming off, but bogs down in the center. HOOPDI may have noticed this saturday as he was lapping me for the third time. Is this a problem with LR bite?

Impact....when i run my bearing rear end i go 10wt or 20wt higher than my standard pod,...but the most important thing if you use this rear end go with a harder spring.

Pace:devil:

HI Brian
Do you have a basic setup for the carpetpro for asphalt?The race line is 250 ft.flat oval.Will be running 4 cell 19-turn and using BSR caps.Would you run the the car long or short?Thanks for the help.Andy

i have an assoc.10L30 and i am currently running a trc double slotted spring steel t-plate. the car seems to be inconsistant. would i get more consistancy out of a fiberglass t-plate. for 2 reasons, 1 is that my steel plate could possibly be bent and 2 when a fiberglass t-plate is bent you know it is cause it is usually broke.

I noticed my carpet pro came with out a front suspension brace how would it effect the car if i added one?another problem i have is i run the irs caster mounts,so no holes.any ideas?

Vented, remove your T-plate and place it on a surface you know to be flat. Press on one edge, then the other and see if the opposite side moves, and whether it lays perfectly flat. If it moves, it's bent. Toss it. The steel plate is usually more consistant than the glass one.Hope this helps.

Brian, I read with interest your post about "exotic" tire compounds,i.e. pinks, purples etc. being faster due to decreased rolling resistance. On our outdoor asphalt, low banked, most run green rears, myself included. Whenever I have tried pink rears, the car is way loose, with the fronts I always run. grn. left, prpl. right. I'm going to try again this weekend tho, if the car is still loose, i thought about trying just one pink. Would I want to run it on the left or right rear? Why? What about gray rears?

Thanks

also ran, where in florida do you race ?:confused:

Brian, I was reading this thread and noticed that you said you ran the side shocks flat for banked oval and at an angle for flat tracks. I was looking at the carpet pro on bolinks web page and it pictures the shocks flat. So I am confused or did I read it wrong?

Dazed and Confused all or any help much appreciated....

Thanks
Bryon

Brian I was wondering if you were going to go to the NORRCA Nats in Bakersfield Ca. 24 - 26 May.

Later Troy

I've read over and over the questions and answers on all these pages. The set-up, tuning and expectations of the kits stock wide tweek system has been totally ignored. Is it so bad that it should be the first thing one replaces? If it is, why does Racetech persist in suppling such an rig with their highly reputed race worthy kit in the first place? If none of their sponsored drivers use it and they wish to sell race ready/worthy oval kits, why aren't they putting the VCS shocks in the kits to begin with? Are they making so much off the conversion parts they choose to ignore a legitament need for the inclusion of the VCS shocks and application hardware with the kit? Personally, I find the tweek system quite user friendly compared to selecting the right viscosity oil, springs, etc, etc... Any thoughts?

cyeneyedog,I run at Mike Boylans University Speedway in Sarasota.