For info on Bolink/RACEtech:

http://www.bolink.com

CU- changing the height of the shock mount obviusly flattens the shock out a bit. by doing this it allows the shock to work a little easier. Moving the shock forward gives the car more steering because it transfers more weight to the front of the car. When you raise your side shocks you will make their action softer even with the same spring. this will allow the pod to move back and forth faster. usually you run shocks a bit flatter on banked tracks. you can use the RPM ballcups but you definetely will have to cut them down. Front swaybars keep the front of the car flatter thru a corner. it doesnt allow as much weight to transfer to the right side and it also evens out suspension action. when you compress either side the other side will move a bit as well and this helps tire wear as well. they do tend to make the car push a bit more and if you like your car to do this then they it will probably work very well for you. you can get these sawybar kits thru Racetechs new Team Series line of parts. there used to be rear sway bars but with the advent of shocks on the back they have gone by the wayside.

Slow- check out their website like Tfrahm posted. the latest versions are either the MacAttack or the CarpetPro.

DOM- that really isnt a question that can be answered because of the difference in radios today.. i use an Airtronics M8 and the percentages are different than the Futaba radios especially with the internal adjustments.

Hi CHAMP! Send me your body - need them bad as I have to go to O'town this week to put them in our case.

Thanks!

Mike Boylan

Hey Brian,
Is there a rule of thumb as when to use Wolfe front springs and when to use the standard Associated springs? Some guys tell me to run the Associated springs indoors on carpet and use the Wolfe's outdoors.

Also, how high should the spoiler be cut to on the back of the car when you also use a wing?

Later,

Tom

Mike- im sending the bodies this week...you should get them thursday...sorry about the delay.

Tome- the rule of thumb i use is that if the track is banked and very smooth ill use associated springs if possible..if the track is flat i always use Wolfe springs. the general rule is that if the track your running on regardless of how smooth or bumpy it is that if you cant get your car to steer enough you should always use Wolfe springs. they make the car much more aggresive and the associated springs tend to tighten the car up a bit.

Brian,

Are you familiar with the bronze pivot balls sold by Niftech? They're replacements for the standard, plastic Associated pivot balls for both the T-plate and upper & lower suspension arm. Their "claim" is that they help "free" things up. Comments anyone?

Eric

Brian,doesn't moving the shock forward take rake out of the car,which should tighten the car up?

:thumbsup:
Eric
I use them in my cars and the only thing that noticed they di was not wear out like the plastic do ,but I am not sure if the yhave any other benefits or not.
Jason

Since there was some interest in Brian's Snowbirds car picture in the recent RCCA magazine, I found a really good picture of both his cars at the 2002 Snowbirds.

You can see the picture at:

http://www.snowbirdnationals.com/images/2002racepics54.JPG

Someone spends more time on just painting their car bodies than I do on preparing my whole car!

Eric- ive tried them in the past but i wasnt a big fan of them...they do wear less than the stock parts but i dont see any advantage in them other than that.

DK- when you move the shock forward you have to lengthen the shock end to make the overall length longer..this will put more weight on the front of the car when the suspension is compressed. when you take rake out of the car it does tighten it up but you should never run your car with negative rake.

Tfrahm- thanks for posting those pics...i didnt paint those bodies though. my good friend Brian Chudy did them..as most people will admit they were pretty amazing looking bodies..i dont want to send them to the Race Rock because they are so cool looking but Brian's work deserves to be displayed.

brian- i am going from racing 6-cell to racing 4-cell and would like to run a receiver pack but i am not sure how to hook it up so i do not hurt the receiver . i have a airtronics caliper.

Brian, first , on behalf of a lot of wannabe's, I wanted to say thanks for sharing your knowledge and setup skills with us. A lot of guys would get on here and blow smoke up our shorts...
Now, having said that, with pretty much all of todays crop of competitive oval chassis's having adjustable battery trays, talk to us about tray placenent. Primarily front to rear adjustment.

Also, are there ANY conditions under which you prefer the 'glass t-plate over spring steel? My track (asphalt) is a touch bumpy, and I
thought an .063 might smooth it out some.

Thanks again.

Hi BRIAN,Ran front sway bar SUN,much faster through turns,asphalt,flat,slight bank,195 groove assoc. offset long w.b.steel t-plate .080 SWAY bar, purple l.f.spring green r.f.purple r.ft. tire purp. l.ft.pink, gold l.h.side spring blue r.h.side.battery all way up,bolink monteH.D. 1oz,wedge +or- gual.3rd.finished 3rd.out 14 in 19 turn.Question!any sugestion to get less r.h.ft.tire wear.

B.T.W.I dont recomend using the front sway bar on any other than a RACE TECH all holes for sway,bumber,chassis fit no drilling not that you cant drill other chassis but the holes are close to other holes

hub- thats a difficult question to answer on the computer..its really something that needs to be shown to you..im not trying to be evasive but i dont want to give you wrong info and you slow your receiver up.

oval- im glad i can help..ive been in situations where some info would really help and sometimes its tough to get. i usually will use a glass t-bar when there are bumpy conditions that are actually in the corner..bumps on the straightaway dont affect the car as much..glass tbars will help get those cars over bumps that are in the corner because they rebound quicker than spring steel.

DOM - i would try and take the offset pod out of the car..that will allow the car to turn on the right front harder but actually makes it work less.

Oval- sorry i forgot about the tray placement..on flat tracks i try to run the tray as far forward as i can..i usuall start around the middle and keep moving it forward until the car starts to get loose..also keep in mind the farther up you run your battery the more nervous the car gets at your fingertips meaning that it is more sensitive to drive. i like to drive my cars very aggresively. the easiest way to explain it is that at the Snowbirds, of all the Racetech drivers my battery was farther forward than anyone on the team.

Originally posted by hub14
brian- i am going from racing 6-cell to racing 4-cell and would like to run a receiver pack but i am not sure how to hook it up so i do not hurt the receiver . i have a airtronics caliper.

Hub14-
I started a post here in the RC Oval section awhile back. In case you couldn't find it-here goes!

What you have to do is disconnect the hot wire on the speed control harness. In other words,look on the plug on the speedo-it should have 3 wires (black,red,white). I'm not sure about the Airtronics wiring colors so refer to the instruction manual or ask your LHS or someone at your track that's running Airtronics. DO NOT cut off this wire in case you need it later on-just pry up the tab & slide the wire out! you should now have 2 wires in the plastic connector-plug it back into the receiver. If you have a switch harness that may have come w/the radio,plug it into the receiver as well. If not,you could plug the rcvr pack straight into the receiver-Just remember to plug it in before you race!!

The reason you unplug the hot (positive) wire from the speedo is that if you don't,the rcvr pack will be overcharging while the car is on from the 4-cell pack! The end results are not very good for your face (or other body parts!)if the rcvr pack is overcharged! I've been running a rcvr pack on my 4-cell for awhile & had good results with it!

Good Luck!
-George

What cells are you using to build small receiver packs for 4-cell oval racing? The "standard" receiver packs are all for nitro vehicles and WAY too big for oval racing... In the magazines I see these tiny receiver packs in the Pro's cars, but I never see such packs or cells listed anywhere...?

Tfrahm- the cells that are used for those receiver packs are a Sanyo 50Mah AAA...they are kind of tough to find sometimes though.

Hey Brian,

I was wondering if you could give me some ideas on how to change setup from a flat shorttrack to a high-banked short track. Should I change my upper a-arm mount, try softer or harder springs, or anything else?

Thanks

Bad- i would flatten you right side upper arm out a bit and you can probably run associated springs. the wolfe springs might not work as well unless the track is bumpy. try maybe and associated .020 on the right front and a .022 on the left front.

Just so everyone knows i wont be able to post until next monday. im leaving for the carpet nats tomorrow morning and ill be back on sunday night. feel free to post your questions and i will answer them as soon as i get back. also anyone that is going to the nats feel free to drop by my pits and say hi or if you have any questions ill answer them at the track. hope to see some of you there.

GOOD LUCK, Brian! Go get 'em at the Nat's!

Could someone get out their calipers and measure the height of the "tall" aluminum shock mount? I need the distance from the bottom of the mount to the center of the hole where the screw goes through to hold the shock. Thanks!

Good luck at the National's

CU, I'll be glad to do that for You if You can rephrase the question. Are you talking about the tall mount from T that a ball cup snaps onto?

oval wannabee - No, I'm talking about the ones that Raceway Mfg. makes and the ones that are distributed w/ the Racetech chassis. These are the mounts that the antenna's also are mounted onto. Does this make sense? Thanks for your help!

CU, sorry dude, I don't run that one.

Looks like about .785"

Thanks oval wannabee and pepe!

I have been looking for a carpet pro everywhere.
Anybody know where to get one?All the shops are saying it's
on back order?!?!

Brian On a Mac Attack should I run the right frnot extender or not and what does it doe for the car. Does anyone know the results of Akron yet?

BRIAN B. -- SECOND IN 10TH MOD! Yipee!

Brian when you get back, I'd appreciate some measurements of how far your battery tray is on flat tracks from the front edge of the pod... (trying to get a better handle on your setup...)

impact-

Have you tried hobbytownusa in indy? I think they have one on the shelf.

good job buddy!! :thumbsup: don t forget Brian...Team Frenchy is watching you!!! :D

Pace

tfrahm
I might be able to hook you up with the cells you are looking for if you dont have them already. My LHS has them I will let you know. Hope I can help. Later Keith
:thumbsup:

Tom, I know http://www.onlybatteries.com had those batteries as well. I just can't find them on their website right now.

dom19- i know this is from awhile ago, but the racetech swaybar is a good fit on our car as well. the only thing that has to be done is dremel a flat spot on the back of the bumper so the mounts dont twist.

i dont think most people know this but out bumper and the racetech are direct bolton replacements for each other. we specifically added a body mounting hole to accomodate this. our bumper extends back onto the chassis a bit more (this is the issue with the swaybar).

l8tz

FIRST -- Thanks to those who posted information on receiver pack cells! You guys are the BEST!

Next -- Back to the issue of Battery Tray location... I know Brian is probably still recovering from the Nationals, but maybe some of you could post some information...

The only two "slider/tray" chassis' that I have any experience with are the original ADX and the Carpet Pro. I track my setup information by measuring the location of the tray from a reference point.

On the ADX, the measurement is from the rear chassis cross member attachment point to the back of the tray. On a flat Ozite oval with a 165' racing line (12' infield), I ran the tray 0.4" forward...

On the Carpet Pro, the measurement is from the front of the rear pod to the back of the tray. On the same track, I ran the tray 0.6" forward. Considering the differences in the reference points, these two tray positions are fairly similar...

How about you guys taking similar measurements and posting them here? Maybe by comparing, we could learn some trends for different tracks, etc..?

I measured my "tall" aluminum shock mount, and it looked like the distance from the chassis to the center line of the shock mounting screw was 0.85"...

Originally posted by CUrcracer
Could someone get out their calipers and measure the height of the "tall" aluminum shock mount? I need the distance from the bottom of the mount to the center of the hole where the screw goes through to hold the shock. Thanks!

i just ordered a kgb carpet car and i'm not sure about the slot for the extra cell on the pod. does anyone really mount a cell there? i've seen pictures of it being cut off and i've also seen speed controls mounted there. any suggestions?

Tfrahm - on my ADX 4 and 6 cell as well as my Associated 4-cell I start with the tray all the way back and all the way out. I usually get good results but I am going to start moving the tray around more. As far as the Associated car goes, I know a lot of guys who run the 6-cell tray in 4-cell because the 6-cell tray puts the batteries further back.

Bornweird - I have seen guys run a cell on the pod whether it be the KGB, new ADX, or the Hyperdrive. It plants the left rear a little better.

Later,

Tom

Let me correct the above - the new ADX doesn't put the cell on the pod, it extends the chassis back a little and the cells sit there.

Later

Brian,

GOOD JOB at nats!!! Just had to steal TQ from me in the last round didn't ya? :thumbsup: That was probably the most fun I've had in a while. Drop me some mail and let me know what's next. Seaford, DE on June 8th? Let me know...

gkraios@rocketmail.com

hey everyone im back!! had a long week in Akron but i didnt do too bad...would have liked to have gotten that one spot better and probably should have if it wasnt for ROAR rules..Josh did a good job so he deserved it as well..we were both the class of the field.

Tfrahm- ive never measured my battery placement but i run the new battery tray from Racetech. It allows you to put your receiver and you transponder in front of the battery...on this tray i run it as far forward as it will go...its just forward of centered on the car.

LittleAl- i always run my wheelbase the same on both sides..the biggest reason i do this is because of consistency...moving your right front forward will give you more steering but i like keeping things even.

Pace- thanks for the good words my friend...Canada is always watching us because we are superior..hehe.

ADX- thanks man..i ahd a good time too until that 2nd A main rolled around...good job to you as well.

Hey Brian,

Do you have any tips as when to use the long or short wheelbase? Does track length or the tightness of turns come into play?

Thanks,

Tom

ROAR rules? what?

i havent seen much on nationals so please enlighten brian. congrats anyway.

l8tz

TOME- i almost always try to use the longest wheelbase i can...i always start long then if i have to i will go short but i havent come across too many places for it...long wheelbase cars can be setup more aggresively than short cars so they still turn very hard but dont get loose coming off.

KGB- with triple A-mains you are supposed to use your best two runs to determine a winner. in the event of a tie they used to revert to the fastest run made by each of the cars to figure out the winner..they have now switched it that you third main is the determinig factor so in effect there really is no throw out unless you win two races therefore no one can catch you. this past weekend me and Josh both got wrecked in the second main while running 1st and 2nd respectively but he ran a few more laps than i did so he finished one spot better than me.. we both had a 1st and 2nd so his 5th place finish was better than my 6th place therefore giving him the title..Josh did a great job and im not taking anything away from him..it just gives that much more reason that only 123 cars showed up for this race...ROAR is not out for the best concerns of the racers in most cases.

Brian,


What body do you like best for flat asphalt ovals? about 40 ft wide outside wall to outside wall

Also, when you change the oil in one of the side shocks, does it still affect the other shock in a way since they are both 'connected' ? does this make any sense guys?

Brian You misunderstood me i am talking about wider spacer to the right not forward or back? racetech makes the spacer to space the right front out to the right more. GREAT JOB AT THE NATS!!!!!

brian- d00d i hate to ask this but "didnt you know that the third main is the tie breaker?"

i guess its just common knowledge (and accepted fact) out here that thats the way it works.

so yeah in the event of a tie there is no throw out :(

i never really thought about it before but using the speed would be a good idea.

sucks :(