Has anyone run at the new oval in Taunton MA? What can you tell me about the place? ( big Boys Toys )

Hey Burkie, thanks for rebuilding my car, I ran it sunday,without changing a thing,and turned the most laps I ever ran. That was the most fun racing I've ever had.
Thanks again
Chris
You had a black RR,what would it do to the car to use a Green RR?

if you have a problem with the micro shocks blowing out cause of that white clip in the end ...a guy at the local track told me to use a e-clip from the old associated gold shocks that goes in the bottom of it and all you have to do is cut one of the ends off and stick it in the groove. problem fixed!!! I never did it but all of his are done that way and he has not blowen out one sence..... :thumbsup:

I would check and make sure that you are not using the side shocks as a travel limiter. In other words make sure that the shock length is not too short and causing the piston to push against the plastic retainer clip.:)

HEY BRAIN, I AM RUNING CARPET OVAL WITH 98 FT. RUN LINE AND 13% BANKING. THE INFIELD IS 6 INCES. I JUST BOUGHT THE NEW HYPERDRIVE 700 E.A.S.E. 1/10 SCALE CAR, WITH ALL OF THE HOP-UPS. WHAT WOULD BE A GOOD SET-UP FOR THIS CAR AT THIS TRACK? I RUN 4 CELL STOCK. WOULD REAR STEER IN THE CAR HELP WITH THE TIGHT TURNS? ANY HELP GREATLY APPRECIATED. THANKS

OffCenter - I have been to that track many times to run on-road. The oval guys are there Saturday while I am practicing and I watch and talk to some of them. Do you have any specific questions?

I went there this weekend to check it out. I got an idea of what it's like, thanks

Brian, Are you using a receiver pack? If so did you build it or buy it if bought were? Part number? Thanks :thumbsup:

Jay, Remind me this weekend, I have one if you are interested.

Ok, Thanks What are you going to run? We could run 19turn:D

What 19t's are yoou running?

crazyt- i would run around a tab and a half of timing in those motors...i usually try to set my 8 turns up for 12.5amps@2volts with a fan.

smleoater- no problem..i had a good time..if you are running a green right rear you can probably take some left rear out of the car.

ovalrookie- like ajs said if the shock is bottoming out on the assembly it will definitely pop those clips off...ive never seen the ols e-clip used but i guess it might work..keep in mind it might be harder to get the shock apart after you install those.

jmjman- did you say 6 inches?? if so that is very narrow...the narrowest ive run on is about 2 ft and that is narrow...keep in mind when an infield is narrow you dont need to run the car that tight...rear steer might help but dont go too much...rear steer works much better if you keep the car turning all the time..if you try to keep it straight it will bog the car down pretty bad.

jbracer2- yes i always run a receiver pack..the one i have are 50mah AAA ni-cds..i built mine from cells i got from a bulk supplier.

BRIAN, YES 6 INCES. WHAT SET UP WOULD WORK ON THIS TRACK. WHAT TIRES WOULD YOU RUN?

jmjan- i would run black rears and gray fronts to start...maybe even a pink on the left front to get a bit more steering.

Thanks for the help Brian...I got with Sonny!!!!

;-)

Dwight

Anyone know where I can order stuff from Wolfe Motorsports on-line? A friend of mine tried through our LHS, and they (the hobby shop) have kind of been giving him the run around. I'd call Wolfe direct, but I can't call long distance from work. (Boo Hoo! I can hear you all saying...) :lol:

I tried Tower, Stormer, RC4Less, RCMadness - thanks in advance!

MURDOCK RC has wolfe products,just click on his site in the site sponsers list.

What items do you need and when do you want them?
WOWRACER (wowracer@bellsouth.net)
:thumbsup:
WOW Racing (http://go.to/wowracing.com)

Brian.

what is a good rpm for a stock motor to run a oval i have a monster stock pro and my dads dyno (which i dont think is right all the time ) said that it is turning at 25,200 rpms ...if it is right should i treat it more like a mod motor and gear it like one ???? thanks oval rookie

Thanks for the info on where to get parts from Wolfe Motorsports, everyone.

ovalrookie- thats almost a question that is impossible to answer...RPM is actually about the least important part of stock racing...there are many other factors like spin up,torque,amps, etc..that are much more important...i wouldnt really worry too much about your motors performance and concentrate on getting really good...its alot easier for a good car to carry an average motor than a it is for a good motor to carry a bad car.

hey Brian,do you think it's a good idea to put tire compound on all four tires? it seems this would make it easier to be more consistant.
If so what tire combination would you recomend for meat the boy's club,I'm keeping everything else the way you had it.

(this is for 4 cell stock)
thanks chris

Hi Brian, wondered if you shim the LF spring to keep chassis
level or if you want to let left side be a little lower than
right? Thanks

Brian (or anybody else!)-
Do you have any suggestions/tips regarding setup for a very smooth short,high-banked concrete oval? Would you run the wing on the pod or body? Run offset or centered pod?

Thanks!
-George

smleoater- that isnt a bad idea to keep the car more consistent but its almost impossible to get a 4 cell stock car hooked up with full right tire traction...you would really have stiffen the right front spring to get away with it so its probably not a good idea.

rc300- i usually run .020-.040 more shims in the left front to keep it a bit more level...it helps the car turn in a bit more.

irvan33mm- it depends on how much bite is in the track...if its not alot i would run offset pod and the wing on the body...try to run a HD body to keep the car more planted...as far as springs and oils im not really sure.

Hi Brian, after reading your responce on the tire compound, does putting compound on both rears make the car loose? I have noticed that in 4 minute races that my car doesn't usually completely hook up until the second minute. Is there really any good rule of thumb when applying tire compound?

Brian,

I've searched through the thread for this info, and while it's touched on in some places, I'm looking for some more info.

I know you run the HPI center shock, and I'm confused about the relative spring rates you use. I've seen you mention the HPI red spring, and even the yellow spring - how stiff are these relative to the Associated Macro springs? I'm running an L3O with the Factory Team chassis, and using the Macro shock in the center. The Assoc. springs for this shock range from about 3 to 4 pounds. The Assoc. off-road springs I've seen you mention seem to range from about 2 to 3 pounds. Then there are the touring car springs, which it sounds like some people might be running, and I'm guessing might be similar to the HPI springs you are running, and these are way stiffer at 12 lbs and up.

I'm getting ready to run small to medium, flat, carpet and asphalt ovals, and my question is do you think I need stiffer springs than the 3 to 4 lbs range that the macro springs come in? I just don't want to either not have springs I might need, or buy springs I probably won't need.

I know it might depend on things like track surface and driving style - assume I'm trying to set up the car up to steer agressively, similar to how you do.

Thanks!

Brian..... how much play does rollout play cause my track is about 125 to 135 ft drive line and cause i had like a 1.22 rollout ran like 61 laps then i had like a 1.58 rollout and did 63 laps and the othe day i had a 1.45 rollout and i was on like a 65 lap pace til a bearing broke in the rear pod ....Please help !!!

what kind of bearings do you use cause the ones in the trinity has in the kits of the switchblade suck cause i killed 5 of them in a matter of 3 weeks of racing????:thumbsup:

Brian,
My car scrubs a lot of speed from the middle off the corner on a 132ft ozite carpet oval.What can I do?

:wave: I need help on t-bars I went from softer-soft-med-hard-harder no different in handling is it oil or springs:confused:

I'd say it was the spring Dave. That would be the stronger of the two constants in my opinion, lol. Hey, those pics of LAMBEAU should be ready in a week. Still trying to burn up the film, lol. Think I need a didgital? :thumbsup:

teamh- i always put traction on both rears no matter what track im at...make sure you put it on at least 10 minutes before your race and wipe it off very good.

marig- when i was running the associated shock i almost exclusively ran the red offroad spring cut down to the correct length...this spring seemed to be the best for all situations...the closest HPI spring i have found to it is the HPI linear orange...it is part #6751...that is the spring i rant last year at the snowbirds...i doubt you should ever need anything stiffer than the HPI linear green...im not sure of the pound ratings on these because they are rated with the metric system.

ovalrookie- rollout has a huge factor on how fast you run...you really need to find the best one for your motor and vary it only a little at a time to make fine adjustments...once i usually find a good pinion/spur combo i dont stray too far from that...the numbers your talking of are drastically different so it sounds like you may have been wat over geared and then way under geared..when you found the middle one it probably was the best for your car and motor...the bearings i use are sold by Competition Products...part number is CP1035..they are an ABEC 5 grade stainless bearing..ive never had any problems with these unless you hit a wall then it doesnt matter what kind of bearing you have it will go bad.

dazzler- tell me your setup and i will try to help you..with that info it will be easier to try to find the problem.

triclone- when you change t-bars like that you have to change oil and spring to go with it because of the different rebound rates the t-bars have...the faster the rebound you should heavy your oil up to slow the reation of the tbar down a bit...also you should go to a slightly softer spring for the same reason.

Brian on the t-bar oil thing what would be the difference in weight of oil be with a .032 double slotted steel t-bar compared to a .075 fiberglass solid t-bar. I'm running 30 in the side shocks and 40 in the center shock fiberglass t-bar. I have the steel t-bar also. Thanks :thumbsup:

I'm running a .063 fiberglass 3/8 slot with 60wt all the way around red springs on side shocks green tc3 spring on center works pretty well.I'm still working on the set up for my spring steel T-plate car looking for a good starting point,what kinda changes do i need to make with the above set up if I wanted to go to a Trc 6263 medium spring steel T-plate.Brian when you say cut down spring how do you determine how much to cut down?

Brian where can I find a good article about caster. My car is diving into the curve,pushing in the middle and fine on the exit. It is just taking to long to get full throttle. I run and 200ft 10 degree concrete oval. I would like to know about caster better due to I think this is my problem.

Thanks. Tony

chuck47- you should be able to stiffen the oil about 10wt when you go to the spring steel...i usually run between 60-70...i dont really ever run a fiberglass bar because i dont like the inconsistency of them.

pepe- i wouldnt run that heavy in the side to make the car a bit more aggressive...i just make my spring the same length as the normal associated pan car springs.

T-Town- im not really sure where to find that article...if you look under some full size race car sites you can probably find alot of info about it.

T-Town
www.longacreracing.com has some good tech articles.

T-Town, here are my favorite explanations of castor that I have found on the net. Hope they help.

Caster is the angle of the kingpin from vertical. If the top of the kingpin is leaning back toward the rear of the car than the caster is said to be positive. If the top of the kingpin is leaning toward the front of the car than the caster is called negative.

Caster tends to affect the responsiveness and stability of the vehicle. The more positive caster (ie: leaning back) the more the steering tends to self center creating stability, however it also causes the initial turn in to be less responsive and body roll to be greater due to the angle of the tires to the road. If you have a more upright caster angle the car becomes more twitchy, less stable and has less body roll. The lower the caster angle the more the tire contacts the road when turning.

Positive caster provides directional stability for your race car. (Car will want to naturally track straight. This is good for high speed tracks with long straight-aways such as veladrom racing.) Too much positive caster will increase the force you need to steer the car.

Negative caster (ie: the more vertical the kingpin) provides less directional stability and requires less steering effort to turn the car. The more vertical the kingpin, the easier and quicker the car will turn, but this can make the car very twitchy (ie: react very quickly) and hard to drive.

Camber vs. caster

Camber is all about contact patch – keeping as much tire on the ground as possible. Camber and caster are related in that caster can afford an amount of EFFECTIVE CAMBER change when the front wheels are turned in a corner.

Caster has the effect of progressively leaning the front tires into the direction of the corner. The more the caster angle is laid-back, the greater the effective camber change when the wheels are turned. This happens because the tops of the wheels BOTH TILT towards the inside of the corner; the wheels “dig in” more, counteracting the centrifugal forces pushing the car to the outside.

Compare that to the static camber of the wheels, which is adjusted with the car sitting on a level surface and the wheels pointed straight ahead. Static camber adjustments primarily affect the outside wheels, since these are the wheels that bear the majority of the load during cornering.

Hence, the amount of front camber required to maintain maximum tire contact largely depends on the amount of caster. A steeper caster angle requires more camber, while a shallower caster angle requires less camber.

Brian I have a box stock 10L3. What front, side, and middle springs do you suggest I start with? And which tires? This is for a 80-40 foot carpet track. And I,m running 4-cell stock.

Ballblazer I would have to disagree with you on the positive caster haveing less turn in. Positive caster will give you more stability and more turn and make the car tighter coming off the turn.More negative caster will make the car alittle twitchy on the straights and have less turn in and have more steering coming off the corner. Anyone who has a L3 oval car can read this info in the direction book.

Brian...I just wanted to ask a question about t-plate pivot balls/sockets. I am building a new kit and the the pivot balls/sockets are very tight. I polished the balls, but it doesn't seem to have helped. Should I run them as they are, or loosen the screws a bit so that they are free? Thanks for your help. :)

Brian,
First time poster here who, 12-15 years ago used to race dirt oval (RC-10, late model bodies, side dam and etc.) until they started sweeping the tracks and running foams (which I loved) but most others didn't and alot of people got out and all the tracks closed. Luckily, I worked for someone who had $$$ and loved rc car racing, but just wasn't a very good driver but somehow knew how to set up a pan car. To make a long story shorter, he bought me about $1200 worth of stuff to race at the masters at Lake Whipporwill (sp?). He set up the car and I drove to the B main my first time driving a pan car! Shortly, thereafter that track also closed. SO, my new stuff sat dormant for 10 years! Now, we have a couple new asphalt tracks that are completly flat and smooth as silk. Now, the problem. I did buy a newer L30 off e-bay with alot of hop up parts, including an all aluminum front end (upper and lower). But I know zip about setting up this car. I have managed to get fairly close, but to beat a couple of the top guns I need another tenth or two. The main track I run on has a 180' drive line and I average 4.8-5.0 second laps or so. I can't really ask real technical questions cause I don't know enough yet, but let me start with the basics. I run in 6 cell pro stock class. I have panasonic ultra metal batteries I use those green monster motors and generally run a 4.3 to 1 gear ratio (120-27). Any recommemdations on front and rear spring colors (I have the long king pins)?. How bout shock oil weight? I've been running cut down greens tires on the rear and cut down green left front and cut down purple on the right front. I was using pink rears till it got cold and they worked good when it was warm. I'm using a large (I think) Buds wing without the bi level deal. Also using a 2000 protoform heavy Monte Carlo body. Please any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, and sorry for the long post! BTW, Go Bucs!!!

BIGG- i would run red RF,greenLF,red LR,gold RR and a Red Associated center spring...run a Gray RF,Green LF,and Black rears...give that a shot and see how it does for you.

RYR- try and loosen the screws a bit and see if that helps...if not you might have to get some more t-plate cups...you can run them a bit loose but you dont want the ball to move up and down in the socket.

Moe- what is the width of the infield of the tracks you are runnig so i can get a better idea of spring rates to tell you.

When discussing setups, there is a ton of information in this thread about springs, shocks, and tires, but there seems to be much less discussion on the setups that folks are running on the front end of their cars (things like camber, caster, toe-in). Right now I'm running the following on a flat asphalt track:

Caster: 4 degrees LF & RF (I think)
Toe-in: 1/2 degree
Camber: +2 degree LF, -1 degree RF

Brian,
Thanks in advance, for the help man. I'm not the type of guy who will come up and ask you questions in person, cause I wouldn't want to bother you. But at least here, you can answer at your leasure. Thanks.

The main track I run at has a 20' infield with perfectly smooth and rounded 2" PVC inside rails with 75' straights and a 189' drive line, not 180 as I said before.

BTW, I'm going to the snowbirds in Orlando, can you help with that set up? I promise I'll give ya all the credit when I beat you! jk! Well you know how cocky racers are? Even if they know deep down they'll probably get smoked. :dude:
Thanks again,


RacingStorm,
I can't remember for sure, but I think thats pretty close to where I'm at. I'll definitly compair what I got with what you gave us. Let me ask you, do your tires wear evenly?

I polished the balls, but it doesn't seem to have helped.


chris you are not doing it right! i'll show you friday. :eek:

HI BRIAN
IT'S BEEN A LONG TIME SINCE IVE HEARD FROM YOU
WE USE TO RACE A LOT TOGETHER IN STAFFORD
BUT I STOP RACING FOR A COUPLE OF YEAR'S
AND I DON'T RACE OUT OF STATE MUCH NOW.
BUT I EAR THAT YOUVE BEEN THE MAN FOR A
WHILE GLAD THAT YOU ARE REAL SUCCESFUL.
TILL NEXT TIME
DANNY FLAG 72
MONTREAL QUEBEC CANADA
:wave: :devil: :devil:

hi Brian i was wondering if you could help me out with a setup for k/n 4 cell mod last time i was there i was wy off also the setup would be for a mac attack or carpet pro which do you prefer? thank in advance for the help

Originally posted by Moe Betta
I can't remember for sure, but I think thats pretty close to where I'm at. I'll definitly compair what I got with what you gave us. Let me ask you, do your tires wear evenly? [/B]

Right now I am getting pretty even wear accross the tire. However, I do swap the RF & LF every weekend to keep the tires to about the same size; otherwize, I end up with some reverse stagger in the car.

Does anyone know if TRC and Jaco foams are the same? Talking about whites, greys and blacks?