Thanks, for the ideas, the car is 100% straight, but I think that your right about it being too loose. Thanks for the input.

Brian, do you still hear the BUZZ? Hope your trip home was uneventful.
HAVE A GREAT THANKSGIVING.:wave:

merich- i would start out with a black RF,Gray LF,GrayRR,WhiteLR.

JPH- no problem..hope it works out for you.

ptown- trip home was uneventful because i think i was sleeping most of the way while driving mind you...and i still smell nitro,cigarette smoke,and cant get this damn noise out of my ears.

Brian,

Under what kind of conditions would you change the position of your battery tray? Such as flat track vs. banked; or wide, sweeping corners vs. a tight "paperclip" turn?

Thanks

brian- on a stock motor what size com produces the most power?

BadSign- usually on flat tracks i keep my battery pretty far forward to keep as much weight on the left front wheel as i can...on banked tracks you usally have to slide it back because you have the banking trying to keep the car turning when coming off the corner so you slide it back and it helps the car come off the corner better...i always start with my battery as far out as it will go then see if i need to change it depending how the car is coming off...if it is loose then you usually should slide you battery in a bitbecause it makes the car more neutral coming off..sliding the battery in also tightens the car up in the middle too so i try to avoid it as much as possible.

hub14- im no stock motor expert but i think it is around the .270-.285 size...this seems to get the amp draw up pretty good and makes decent power.

thanks brian.:thumbsup:

I don't think you run them Brian , but I know you at all major races what do you think of new GT7 speed controls. Is it true that they are very unreliable?
Thanks Greg

I may be wrong metro....but i havent heard anything good about the GT7 yet. They need to get the bugs worked out .....:eek: ....till then I run a LRP Quantum and it has been great, I've heard great things about keyence as well....they aren't cheap though...:lol:

Happy Thanksgiving everyone !:thumbsup:

Brian, I'll be heading down to Big Daddy's for the Toys for Tots race. What tires do you suggest for stock?:confused:

hi brian i was wondering what wt oil and spring would be good on the center shock associated for 180 ft flat carpet track

Hi guys,

Anyone know if Sanyo is still making 3000's? Somebody told me you cant get them any more, only 3300's. I find this hard to believe.

brian- do you think 3000hvs run better the 2nd time you charge them the same race day or just one time a week is better . I run 4-cell stock and are just looking for voltage. thanks ...rick hubbert.

metro- i have heard some things but not all of them..the biggest thing im hearing is that they are geting hot and shutting off.

Rayce- for stock down there i would say blackRF,grayLF,and gray rears to start..we ran pink left sides in modified but that was because it was hard to get the car hooked up off the corner.

teampowerpush- if its pretty smooth i would satry out with 60wt oil and a #2 piston.

sawzall- sanyo is still mkaing that battery but it is getting more difficult to get because most of the matchers dont want to mess with them because the new GP3300's and the sanyo 3300's are so much better..if your local track only allows you to run them you might want to talk to them about trying to get some to make sure that they are available for the local racers to buy.

hub14- for voltage purposes they are definetely better on the second charge..you can run them at least a couple times a day and probably even more if there is enough time between races..for runtime they are best when they are brand new.

thanks brian.:D

Brian I'm having troble getting Racetech parts.Any information as to when they will find a new vendor to cut graphite?

Hey Todd, It's L.G. How have you been? I haven't seen you in years. I hear you and Frankie are kickn some butt.I got a 12 scale Razor with a weird problem. Two minutes into a race the back gets loose. I changed everything and the car does the same thing. If you go to my 12 scale thread you will see all the set-ups I tried. Don't pay any attention to the crap between Shadow and I. I just took the dampner tubes off and put on shocks. I haven't tried it yet. Have any ideas? How about chassis set up? I'm racing on a 118 foot 4 corner flat oval. Thanks! Tell Frank I said hey.:thumbsup:

Hey Todd, It's L.G. How have you been? I haven't seen you in years. I hear you and Frankie are kickn some butt.I got a 12 scale Razor with a weird problem. Two minutes into a race the back gets loose. I changed everything and the car does the same thing. If you go to my 12 scale thread you will see all the set-ups I tried. Don't pay any attention to the crap between Shadow and I. I just took the dampner tubes off and put on shocks. I haven't tried it yet. Have any ideas? How about chassis set up? I'm racing on a 118 foot 4 corner flat oval. Thanks! Tell Frank I said hey.:thumbsup:

Sorry about the double! - G -

Brian,

I am running on a flate concrete 115' oval with lots of vht.
My problem is that going into the corner my car gets really loose.
I have gone to orange fronts and green rears and the car still does this. It also tries to turn coming off sometimes. If I move up a
little higher the car will not turn at all.10L30 is the car.
thanks, Dale

I race with some guys that are very fast from the start of a race for the first minute and half of the race. Then their cars slow down. But by the time they slow down they have a lap on me and it's hard to catch up. Anybody have an idea what they may be doing to either their motors or batteries?

Hey dude its called stacking the gear on and charging the packs at real high rates !!!!! SEE YA HACKSAW:devil:

Brian...

I have recently been using the stiffest spring steel t-plate (TRC?) on a very smooth carpet track. but it seems like the car isn't as 'locked' in as i need to drive consistently. do u think using this stiff of a T-plate could have anything to do w/ it?

Brian can you give me a starting place to work with for a set up on a 10l3o for 4 cell stock. This is my first time going to Snowbirds. Chuck

Bob- i spoke with Steve and im pretty sure they have the supplier set, now its just getting them the CAD drawings to get stuff loaded in the machine.

lg- you said Todd...were you asking me the question? just checking.

dazzler- thats a pretty extreme problem..orange fronts and green rears your car should knock the outside wall down so bad because it should push so bad...sounds to me that they dont have the VHT layed down real consistently...i would make sure of that before anything.

ballblazer- it sounds to me that they are probably gearing way too high because your car shouldnt dramatically slow in a minute and a half..you should fall off a bit if your gearing is right but not drastic.

rcavenger- yeah i would definetely say thats the problem..even on smooth tracks you are usually better off running the double slot....just because a track is smooth doesnt always mean it has tons of traction...the only time you would use the single slot is when traction is abnormally high.

chazracer- go back in the posts and i have my snowbirds setup posted but im not sure where...you can start with that but keep in mind that is a very aggressive setup and may not be the best for your driving style.

Hey Brian,

I just wanted to post two general problems that I think are common problems. For discussion sake the car is running your basic set up.

1) Car is loose entering and tight exiting.
2) Car is tight entering and loose entering.

I was interested in how you would fix these two chassis woes.

Thanks,

Tom

Brian...I just wanted to get an idea on what you would change when going from 6 to 4 cell stock. I was considering going to stiffer side springs and harder tires, but wasn't sure if this was the right direction. In 6 cell I was running a red left spring, gold right spring, gray LF, black RF, and whites on both rears. Any advice on what to change (ie springs, oil, tires, etc.) would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Brian. That is kind of what I thought also.

Originally posted by chazracer
Brian can you give me a starting place to work with for a set up on a 10l3o for 4 cell stock. This is my first time going to Snowbirds. Chuck

Chuck-
If you're going to HW tonight,I'll get w/ you about my 4-cell stk setup from CPT! It should be a good starting point!
-George

first thing i got to say wow!!! this site has so much info ....i have a few questions ....1 if you run 6 cell and have the slider tray you fun it all the way up front??? and what is the battery position all the way in or out ????? our local track is like 125 foot drive line and what i see from most of the guys that are fast there set up is basic road course set up ...what is going on is we have a few hot dogs up there factory sponsored drivers that can tweak a motor to the very best...and they will help you when they get time ...but what do you do with the driver that cant make a clean pass th save his butt ???? we have this driver that will hit you to pass you ... what we always told every one is to hold your line and let the other guy get by you....well what can you say to him .....rubbing racing but not going into the rear fender out of the corner ....

does anyone have a chart of tire compounds from the companies (jaco trinity bsr)??????

Originally posted by ovalrookie
...but what do you do with the driver that cant make a clean pass th save his butt ???? we have this driver that will hit you to pass you ... what we always told every one is to hold your line and let the other guy get by you....well what can you say to him .....rubbing racing but not going into the rear fender out of the corner ....


Don't you hate people that race like that??? That kind of racing IMO,is totally unnecssary! Unfortunately,you're gonna race w/people like that. If he's the leader & getting ready to lap me,I'll let him know where I'm going and move over-especially if his car is much faster than mine! Now if he's racing for position,that's a different story! I'll try to put up a clean fight!

Talking to him about his driving might help. If that doesn't work,just let him by and try to finish well. Discuss w/your race director about your situation.
-George

Brian, What is a good starting rollout for 4cell mod? We have 8 and 10 turn motors. Our track is around 120ft. flat ozite. The dyno at our track gives some big gears to run. The motors have 30-32,000 rpms.
I guessed at 120 and 24. The dyno said 120-34 and it happens every time we dyno them. Thanks

irvan.....

well to tell you some of the things we pratice if your the leader we want people to hold there line and the leader will get by on there own but, it still funny this guy cant race clean :rolleyes: this guy is fast but the only way he gets around the slower cars is taggin them if he would hold his line he would get around alot faster ....something else is funny that go on at the track a kid was getting his butt whooped all over the track he want to his pit and stuck a mod in and he must not know how to gear a mod cause he dumped in 3 minutes and my car was still faster with the new trinity monster stock

here is some questions i hope some one has a answer ????

1 tire charts does any one have a tire chart with the compounds of all the foams from all the companies ????

2 what is weight bias and tweak ???

3 any one know any motor trick to get a stock motor to run better ???

oval rookie go to Rc4less home page and he has a tire chart on there for bsr tires. the usuall stuff (www.)

TOME- the problems you discussed are actually not very common in R/C cars because the corners we are running on are usually relatively short compared to real race tracks..when you do encounter those problems its usually from the same type of thing just reversed..ill explain..when you are tight going in and loose coming off most of the time its because you have much more dual rate than really needed to get thru the corner..when the car gets to the center or the exit of the corner you should have a enough speed built up to make the car run its normal line coming off but because of the big push the cars exit speed is reduced dramatically and that in conjunction with the additional dual rate will make it feel like the car is very loose coming off...now the opposite happens when you are loose going in because you take alot of dual rate out to attempt to compensate for the loose condition its a bit tougher to hit the apex because the car wants to spin out..that normal occurence is that you let you let the car slide up the track a bit more to help the looseness...when you do this you might get in an area of track that has less bite and it will start to slide the nose a little plus the decrease in dual rate will also not let the car turn as much coming off therefore making you believe the car is actually pushing...this may sound like a bogus answer but R.C cars carry so much more corner speed than a real racecar that you usually cant have those two conditions at the same time...the biggest reason you have those two conditions at the same time is because of the fact that real race cars use brakes to help the balance of the car...if anyone is using brakes to help an oval car turn they have some BIG problems.

RYR28- the only thing i would do to start is to put harder rear tires on...i would go with two black rears and see how that does for you.

ovalrookie- i always start with my batteries as far out as possible and then go from there...if your car is really loose coming you can slide them in a bit at a time to help that condition...running 6 cell stock i would run the battery as far forward as you can to get weight on the left front wheel to help the car turn more...as far as your guy who wont pass clean,if he is coming up on you and you know he is going to hit you just slide over and let him go...also try talking to him and see what his reasoning is for being impatient...i dont care how good you are if you make contact with someone as you are passing them you will both be slower..try to reason with him and if that doenst work bring it up with the race director.

jbracer- i would definetely stay around the 22-24 tooth range on a 120ft track..if the dyno is spitting those gears out then something isnt set right in track dimensions.

I had asked about seting up a hyperdrive pro and was sent here to find answers. I must admit that just about anything I wanted to know and some stuff I hadn't even considered was addressed in this forum. It appears to me that Bryan is a walking talking encyclopedia for oval set ups and I wish to thank him for sharing this knowledge many times repeatedly. I have also noticed from reading these 55 pages in two days that some opt to change several differnt configerations at once. Now I don't profess to know much and I understand that a certain change will require adjustments to be made, but if one changes shocks, springs, oils, offset, stagger, camber, castor, tire compounds, and radio settings all at once they will never know what realy made the change for better and what made the problem worse.
Just an observation, once again thanks all for all the info. I am sure some of it will help. :thumbsup:

OffCenter for someone new you seem to have common sense.You learn nothing from making multiple changes all at once it seems you just can't stress this enough! I see people do it every weekend.:mad: If you need help at k & n stop by the pit or e-mail me.

Mark Z :wave:

I am not new just a slo learner. Do you have the "Bat" logo at your pit? I was a fair driver in the begining of K&N (B main ave.) Now a few years have passed and everything I knew about batteries changed with Nimh. Everything got a little more complex with reguards to tuning. I went to K&N last Sat. and practiced. I left there somewhat alot more pleased with the handling having changed from the damper tube set up( which I couldn't get right but managed to break a few ) to the side shocks. I could actually put the car where I wanted it. I now have to learn how to apply rollout to my gearing choices and speed up a little. Once I get a handle on how some of this works I be back to the reality that most of my little glitches are Pilot Error!!!
While I got you here, What tire diameters do most run (4cell stock)and what is the approx rollout # I should be looking for that class using a p2k or revenge of the monster?:confused:

No larger then 2.25 tires(i start at 2.23 myself for stock),use a green 3 if possible until the monster is legal at that track jan 1st, 767 reedy brushes work well(i usually run putnams excellent power but high maintenance)with about a 2.40 rollout to start.

(No bat signal or logo's yet...):D

offcenter- im glad the info is helpful for you and many others...when i started this thread i never dreamed it would get so large but i think its great...im always glad to lend a helping hand to anyone...you are in fact right about changing too many things at once..if you cant gauge what helped and what didnt you might not ever make any forward progress...its all about small changes and getting as many laps as possible.

What up Brian? Ready for the birds?
Later,Walter

So for now I guess I just ask for millionare Bruce Wayne when I'm at K&N and I'll hook up with you.:D :D :D

hey walt...im not even close to ready...i have a thing that i usually dont build my car until i get there...hehe...im going to try and change that this year but who knows...depends on the weather is for golfing i guess.

Rollout - I usually forget the formula - Tire diameter x 3.14 divided by gear ratio = Rollout

2.25 x 3.14 / 2.92 (37/108) = 2.42 Is this the correct formula? Figured I better check before I go any further.:roll: :roll:

rollout, that way works or this way also
tire size x pie(3.14) x pinion divided by spur
2.25 x 3.14 x 37 * 108 = 2.42" of rollout

brian ... i have a tire question.what tires would you start with,our track is carpet on concrete 200 foot drive line with wide turns.some are useing purple and pink combo and others use black and greys. i run a racetech mac set up like yours.thx charlie

Brian, What type and wind of mod motor would you run on flat carpet. 120 to 130 foot drive line? What brushes are you running in your mod motors?

ovalcharlie- i would probably try a gray RR,pink LR,pink LF,BlackRF...this is what i ran at Big Daddys and that track is on concrete and it seemed to be the best setup at least for modified.

jbracer- i would probably run a 9 turn single or double..i always run 4383 brushes in my mod motors.

Brian, I did say Hey Todd, Mainly cuz' I haven't seen Todd in years. If you have any ideas for me, thanks. :thumbsup:

With a 9d or 8d, where would you start the timing at on that track that JB was talking about?