Brian, You have been a help on this thread so thanks again, but what about a graphite T-bar. You discussed the advantage of the metal bar over fiberglass, but what about the graphite t-bars? Thanks again. Ralf :wave:

Ralf- i havent really seen alot of graphite t-bars around lately...they worked real well when we were using just dampener tubes because the could spring back very quickly and they allowed the car to transer weight extremely fast on really smooth banked tracks...they dont really have an advantage anymore because you can control side motion with the shocks and springs...another advantage they had was they had no memory like spring steel but they really cant run on tracks with bumps in them.

TOME- you can use the greens and blues...they have the similar rolling resistance but they dont generate the same amount of traction so you might have to soften your setup a little bit to get the similar traction.

Brian-

Do you run more spacers under the LF suspension, the chassis is lower on the left then the right? Or is this a last resort option to get the car to turn. Thanks

Xpress- thats definetely a last resort...there are so many other ways to get your car to turn that doing that really is a last ditch effort and you should never get to that point with the other adjustments you have.

Brian, my question is side springs and oil in the side shocks, I have heard both ways, softer springs makes the car turn better, and heavier springs makes the car react more quickly, which I would interpret to make the car turn quicker, and how does the different weights of oil effect the cornering characteristics. Great thread, thanks for your time and effort.:)

So with the proper set-up would blues and greens be faster because of the fact that they have less traction so the car should be freer? Or are blacks faster?

Tom

AJS- side springs can affect a car slightly differently on different types of tracks...if you are running flat tracks you typically want to get the siffest side action you can without sacrificing rear traction or directional stability...on some banked ovals depending on the transitions into and out of the corners you want to stay stiff as well...tracks that are more flowing you can usually run a bit softer side to side and it will allow weight to transfer quicker therfore making the car turn more...on tracks that the banking is very aggresive and tight you want to run stiffer to keep the car more upright so it wont lay over as bad when entering the corner....oils are the same everywhere...heavier the oil the lazier the car will react and thinner the oil the quicker the car will react.

TOME- blacks are still going to be faster because even with the correct setup the greens or blues still wont have as much traction as the blacks.

Thanks Brian, I assume that siffest is really stiffest, thanks again.

Whats up Brian..?

Hi was reading about using spacers between the castor blocks. I was wondering what is a good rule of thumb to know when to use them.

Thanks ahead of time
Bryon

i am lookin for a race setup for adx car to run on carpet oval 160ft flat track any suggestions,what hop ups do i need please help!!!!!!:thumbsup:

B mullins run the spacers on flat tracks

flyin42hunter srm and others have posted setups on the adx threads. you can check them out there.

could someone give me examples of good numbers for 4 cell packs done on a turbo 35 ir, voltage,runtime@30amp dis. also when i cycle what mode of discharge should i use.thanks:confused:

I've got what may be a very silly question...

If a person wanted to buy a pan car to run oval, but also had ideas about trying to run a road course ocasionaly, could you go and buy a RC10L3 TC, and then also buy the Factory Team Oval Kit, and make a oval car out of the TC without buying addtional parts?

Or asked a slightly differnt way... what's truely differnt about the 10L3O and the 10L3 TC???


Sort of a seperate question... but what would be the most usefull and/or nessasary optional parts to be competitive with a RC10L3O... THat is... Besides the basic kit(and maybe the Team Oval Chassis), what addtional parts will I need to get started in oval racing?

TMFU

I think your trying to say TC3 not 10L30TC there is no way that you could convert a TC3 to a 10l30 one is a pan car the other is a 4WD TC not suited to oval racing at least not in the traditional sense.your best bet would be to find a good used 10l30 and possibly check into one of the excelllent conversion kits available now ADX,pro parts their all over the swap boards.Hope this helps.

Originally posted by pepe
TMFU

I think your trying to say TC3 not 10L30TC there is no way that you could convert a TC3 to a 10l30 one is a pan car the other is a 4WD TC not suited to oval racing at least not in the traditional sense.your best bet would be to find a good used 10l30 and possibly check into one of the excelllent conversion kits available now ADX,pro parts their all over the swap boards.Hope this helps.

Actually he means 10L-TC. A couple of years ago Associated made some Touring Car style pan cars. They are just a narrow version of the 10L with batteries on both sides. I would think that could be used for the parts to use with an aftermarket chassis. The front end is the same but I think the rear pod is different, but it could be used. The older t-plate did not have the center screw in the middle....I think.

You can do it without buying any other parts. The only difference is the TC rear upper and lower pod plates don;t allow for an offset pod.

Good deal! I have never heard or seen one of those cars learn something new everyday here!

Also I believe the right side hub is way narrower on the 10L3-TC and the axle is different.

Brian
What is accomplished when you put shims between the castor blocks and the lower a arms???? Thanks in advance.

I'm not totaly sure if it's still in production or not, but it's Associated Part number 8035. Tower Hobbies has them in stock, they refer to them as RC10L3 Touring Team car. Associated doesn't seem to have a direct link to information about them on their main page, only to the RC10L3O oval car. But if you do some searching you can still find pages at Associated's web site that give info about the TC version of the 10L3.

Basicly it's a 10th scale pan car, alot like the 12th scale pan cars they sell... it's also ALOT like the 10L3O, with the only really obvious differance being the main graphite chassis. Which lead me to question... If I'm going to replace the chassis to run Oval... why not get the TC kit just in case I ever decided to play around with it as a road course car...

There may very well be some differances in the rear T-plate and/or pod... or rear hubs, etc... but this information is not really obvious if you look at typical product info... I guess the only way to really tell would to look at individual parts on the exploded view of the parts catalog...

However... Tower has the Oval car (8018) for $20 cheaper, so it's probably not even worth me bothering to get the TC version... unless I had a specific need to run a road course... They do claim that you can run the 10L3O as a road car, with just a few changes anyway...

Looks like Xpressman is pretty much correct. The Lower pod plate has two sets of holes in the Oval verison, this allows for the pod offset. The top pod plate has two differnt holes for the front shock, apparently you use the same holes for the side shocks.. There is also a aluminum spacer and a longer right hub for the rear axle if you use the off set.

Associated's web site really is not very good... Especialy when trying to research this... They don't have a full brake down of the Oval car parts, like they do for the TC version... so you have to search all over trying to find part numbers... unless of course you'd happen to have the Oval car manual, which is not 'on line'...

I wonder why they just don't have the Factory Team Oval car kit with ALL the parts needed to run the new chassis, and none of the older parts that you essentialy will not use if you run the new set up???

TMFU the top plate bottom plate and right diff hub are not the same on the touring pan car as the oval car. i don't know about the cross brace. i'll look on asc web site.

manual for the touring car http://www.rc10.com/pdf/manuals/10l3t_manual.pdf
the htm for the10l30 is the same a s the htm for the touring which i would take as the cross brace is the same part between cars. i'll see if i have a manuel at home tonight.

Brian any insight on the front end that Andy Mc is working on?I read on another thread that he's working on one.

I was looking on ebay today and saw a racetech car with a transponder mount on the battery tray I was wondering where I could get on of the transponder mounts and posts.

Thanks
Bryon

Hi Brian,

do you know where i can find a MacAttack main chassis only part# R8122??? i really need one....if you know a hobby shop or someone let me know!! they are B/O from bolink!

Frenchy Pace:devil:

call hobbyhorse at 1-608-241-3491 they have them ask for mike both mac attack and carpet pro's in stock as far as chassis plates go thanks:thumbsup:

HI Brian:

Tried your setup this weekend for my 2 l3o's and just love it:D :D. I am also racing a late model with a 19turn motor, the car is actually an associated dual sport. Can you or anybody else help me with a setup that would work? I am racing it on a 110' carpet track with an infield of about 6'. What springs, shock weight, tire compound, any thing that will help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance! :thumbsup:

FYI

Associated answers the question about wha'ts needed to convert a 10L3T to 10L30, as well as the same for 12th scale. The answer is in their tech help secton... For the 12 th scale... they claim you can buy a differnt car cheaper then you can buy the parts to convert...

For the 10L3...

How do I convert the L3T to L3O?
You will have to buy several parts:Ê
Top Plate, #8463, $12.00
Base Plate, #8461, 12.00Ê
Cross Brace, #8462, 8.50
Micro Shocks (2), #4470, 15.00 each shock if you want it to be a 3 shock car otherwise tweak it by the T-plateÊ
Right side Hub, #8467, 14.00
Pivot balls, #4448, 3.00 for 8 and #6270, 2.50 for 2

I think that's kind of outdated information however because both cars currently come with side micro shocks. So some of those parts are not really needed.

Brians suggestions gave me a car which was a bit loose after moving the shock forward 1/2". A little weight (tweak) added to the left rear made it run on rails. No inherent "push" like I thought I might have to deal with from hearing about other L3O's ...

I still need to add 4 oz of weight to be legal, so putting that in the pod may give it enough bite to run the car flat. Or should I move the shock back 1/4" ?

Thanks Brian ! :D

Mike

HEY BRIAN

What can you tell me about the Racetech Carpet Pro (especially the bearing pivot action of the floater pod). I understand that spring steel t-plate on carpet is the way to go but this pivot set-up comes with the carpet pro. This set-up appears to be opposite of spring steel i.e. much more giving. I guess my question is will it work and if so with what center shock set-up???

Thanks for any advice you can give on this subject.

I am going to use the HPI threaded shock,(for the L3)Are people using the limiter spacer inside the shock?thanks:thumbsup:

hey brian send some t plates to fisler,they dont have nothin but .075 fiberglass in the store.....also whats the dilly with the TRC springsteel and the glad bag ? Or should i try to get a Hyperdrive spring steel ?.................Dave

the only thing i know about the spring steel t-plate and the glad bag is..... sometimes the holes in the t-plate are a tick too large, take some plastic bagging or similar stuff and put thats over the holes then install your pivot ball/cup deal. I didnt know this till this past weekend...... if you dont realize it and check....after you get the car back together you'll realize why the rear end of the car moves side to side about 1/8 of an inch. DOH:eek:

hope this helps disruptor

:wave:

Hey, I'm in the process of building my first RC10L3O. I purchased the optional long right rear hub and I'm building the pod with it's offset. When I put the axle in, and left off the spacer that goes between the left rear hub and the bearing, I noticed that the Left Rear tire rubs on the lower pod plate on that side.

Did I do something wrong? or do I need to trim the lower pod plate a little and/or the tire? It's not rubbing by very much, I probably need at leas .020" to keep it from rubbing at all... I noticed there as around .100" of the plate extending beyond the left rear bulkhead.

Like I say, what I really want to know is... did I do something wrong? Is there suposed to be a smaller aluminum spacer for the left side? or do you really not use any spacer at all on that side when you use the offset pod configuration?

TMFU no you didn't do anything wrong. the asc car was designed that way, they feel that you would never need to offset the rear pod unless you were running a narrow left rear tire, caps. thats part of the reason why the car pushes so badly at some tracks. when running the standard pod theres many tracks that you need to run without the spacer, so if you try to offset the pod you can't get the rear track track width set where you want it. good luck,my sugestion would be to get the adx chassis if you really want to stay with the asc based cars, since it doesn't need to be offset to work at any track i've seen. oh ya sorry ust trim the lower pod plate, got off on a tangent.:wave:

Thanks for the info rocket... This is my firt oval pan car, I can't afford any conversion for it yet, nor could I really justifiy a more expensive kit. Basicly I was going to try and run this for a while and then try and come up with money for a better chassis, and/or work my way up to something better.

To some degree I'm of the thinking that simpler is better, and that's one of the main reasons I wanted to work with the L3O right out of the box for a while before I start looking for more complex solutions.

TMFU what are the other people running at the track? if there not running offset i wouldn't be. it makes the car varing tight feeling, which is already the case with the l30. what class are you going to running.

Many of the others are running Woods cars... I don't know if they run any offset or what have you... I can find out more as I go. Since a woods car is no longer available, I didn't really have a choice to run what most other locals are running.

For now we are always on flat carpet, and based on what I've been reading, the offset should be helpfull for this, espcialy on a shortish track. I figured I'd adjust as needed, but felt a desire to initialy set it up with the offset.

Apparently there is going to be a indoor paved banked track open before the end of the year, so that's looking apealing too.

Class? well... I was really hoping to get started in a Spec class locals refer to as 'bush'. THat is 6 cell Ex-Spec pack, Stock motors, Spec Tires, and with one inch or smaller spoiler. If I have trouble finding others to race that class, I'll likely have to go to 4 cell stock. In years past most people around here were running 6 cell stock, and it seems there is still some desire to keep running that. SO... I'm kinda waiting to see which of these I'll run... THen there are also others that want to run 19 turn motors with adjustable timming... So class is still up in the air...

TMFU-My brother and I were the other two non woods cars in Lansing. We both run the Factory Team kit and had fast lap at 3.9. Send me an e-mail at bjanth72@hotmail.com and we can help you with setup and what we run.

Sorry for the delay guys but ive been having computer problems. Lets get started here. this might be a long one.

Bob Wright- i havent talked to Andy lately so im not really sure what the new front end is all about. he has some pretty good ideas so im sure it will be pretty good when it becomes available.

BMullins- that piece you saw is a complete tray conversion it has a new tray, posts, and transponder mount. it is available thru Racetech as part number RATE 8139. im not sure of availability though.

Hurricane- im not sure about hobby stores that have them but call Danny and see if he might be able to help you out if you cant find anything.

Dizzy- im glad the setup worked for you. its always nice to hear somebody being successful with a setup that i recommend as far as the DS im not really sure where to even start on that one so i probably wouldnt be of much help.

Giant- i would actually try to keep that much weight as close to the center of the car as possible. 4oz. is alot of weight and can really affect the handling of the car. keeping it closer to center will keep the car more neutral. i would leave the shock placement alone because moving the shock back can make the car pretty tight.

Georgia- ive never been a big fan of that style pod because it doenst suit my driving style. that pod tends to make the car a bit more forgiving to drive because of the extra rear bite that the pod being a seperate pivot and relying only on the shock. they work extremely well on bumpy surfaces or tracks that are lacking bite. when a track is pretty smooth and bite is good i would lean toward the spring steel plate.

askalot- i do not have a spacer inside my shock. keep in mind that my shock is mounted more forward than most so the needs to be a bit longer anyway.

disruptor- i try to get them to get stuff but they seem a bit hesistant sometimes. ive never used the hyperdrive bar so i cant really comment on it. the TRC ones are in stock and we have plenty of them. the bag thing is just used to tighten the holes up a bit. ive made some comments to them about this but i doubt anything will change.

TMFU- you can trim down the bottom plate a bit for clearance of the left rear tire. like rocket said the ASC car is generally a tight car so you usually dont need to run it offset unless traction is really at a premium. i wouldnt do much comparing between the ASC car and a woods style car because your not really comparing the apples to apples. be careful copying everyone elses setup because it might not fit your driving style.

Brian where are you gettin your Trc spring steel t-plates?

brian my son runs a hyperdrive sse up at k/n speedway a banked carpet track.and he loses alot of speed in the corner i noticed the rear pod was angled down from the shock pushing it it was probably 1/16-1/8 downward would that make it lose speed he doesn't run alot of tweek so i'm looking for some advice

Brain I have a question I an run on a flat carpet track a Big boy toys in Tauton MA. I am running a KGB 2K2 car (very nice car)the problem I am having is the car get into the corn great and is good in the middle of the corner but it push coming off the corner I am runnig a white wolf spring in the rf and a red in the lf and black dot on both front tires.

Newbie oval question...

What's the best way to mount a wing?

Ok, two...

What's the best way to mount the body? I've seen some folks using screw down type body mounts, who makes them, and where do I get them? Or is there something better?

pepe- i work for a distributor so i get mine direct. you should be able to ask your local track to order them though. have them call Competition Products.

hyper- what you are talking about is called "sag" you do have to have some of it in the car but not 1/4"..you should have around 1/8" so when you set the car down the rear pod goes flat. as far as losing corner speed that might have a little to do with it but its probably not everything. K/N is a very strange track that is tough to figure out why your car is going slow. just try some small things and see what helps the most.

red- go back thru the pages and find the setup i posted for a flat track and try that. that should get the car into and off the corner very well.

TMFU- 99% of the tracks run at now the best way to mount the wing is on the body itself instead of on the pod. body mounting is a personal preference. i use the screws myself but it really doesnt make a difference as far as speed of the car. running the posts thru the body is much stronger and more forgiving in crashes, so if you run on tracks with alot of crashes you might want to go with the posts thru the body.

Brian,

I have reading through some of this forum (after 20+ pages over a few days, my eyes started to bleed), and I didn't see anything on this...but it's appearing on another thread. I figure we might as well keep it on here.

Some racers are discussing the fact that moving the batteries back helps the car corner. Applying the theories of cross-weight, I can see how that might help going in, but I would think that placing all of your weight on the left rear would make it tighter than hell coming off the corner. Unless you moved the batteries in, as well, placing some more of the weight on the right rear.

Ignoring cars with a "pod-mount cell", can you shed some light on this?

BTW, are you going to Cooper's?

Thanks.

jeff- sliding the batteries back in the car in theory should make it turn better going in but for some reason in every application ive seen it actually doesnt change the car going in at all. it will make the car tighter coming off and help the car drive up and off the corner. tracks that tend to be loose you should run the battery back a little bit..tracks with alot of bite you want to run the battery as far forward as possible to get the left front stuck to the track and make the car turn harder.

and yes i will be at Coopers. should be a fun race!

I agree with you, Brian. That was my thought as well. However, there were some people at CRC this past weekend ("Three Minute Miller" being one of them), that were saying moving the batts back will help the car corner.

Steve, why do you think this is the case? We all know that since the sky in your world is purple, real-world physics probably don't apply in your world! LMAO!

Let's get this out on the table, I'm curious as to the responses. I'm sure you've tried it, and it works for you, Steve (I would assume, otherwise you wouldn't say it). Now, let's try to find out why.

I am bad enough at carpet racing, and I don't need it to be more confusing than it already is. :lol:

It would seem that it must be somewhat dependent on tires per given track surface. More weight in the back would cause more lateral G force from centrifigul force. More weight in the back would also tend to incresase traction in the rear. At somepoint the centrifigul force created exceeds the grip created by the weight. Then when you are on a banked course the centrifigul force is also contributing to the downward force, and then it would also increase traction... and ultimately could get very complex...

One thing I've noticed in just looking at my oval car as it gets ready to hit the track for the first time... The weight of the rear pod/axle is never going to directly transfer to the front tires(at least not untill I'm about ready to roll over). The weight on the chassis, will quite easly transfer to the front tires, just how much so, will be highly dependent on the side springs and shocks.