Rayce,

I know how you feel I'm going through the same thing and I've been back in racing for a year now and can't figure out how some of these guys are going so dang fast.To make matters worse I run in the spec class and "supposedly" everyone runs the same motors and batteries,the only thing I've come up with is tires, some sets are faster than others for sure!The first thing I would suggest is to get a LCS and use it to judge your lap times when you practice or make changes to your car.I don't know if this is going to help but I'm going to buy a durometer to match my tires with,the other thing is (my biggest problem)lap consistenty it plays a huge role in any form of stock class racing the LCS should tell you where your at there.One other thing don't go dumping a bunch of money in new equipmentIE:car,ESC etc it won't help that much,your ESC is probably not the culprit,I've seen guys with five year old equipment absolutely fly.Hope some of this helps!OH yea the other thing is setup, setup, setup!it's huge!

Try someone elses radio,I know it sounds stupid but I recently witnessed a radio that was the culprit.Also Im sure you have checked the speedo for WOT but have you checked all your solder connections on the esc?

Thanks for answering, guys.
pepe - I don't know how they are going so fast either. I don't have all the zappers and other high dollar tricks, but I do feel I should be running in the high 5's in stock at this track. Five 4's and 5's in mod, too. But when I put the same gear my friend is running in my car with the mod motor and a stock car out runs me down the straight, something is wrong. Give the motor to my friend and he runs faster with my 11x2 than his. My driving isn't up to par yet and I don't expect to win the A, but I do expect to make the A. I'm not that bad.;)
HOOPD1 - I didn't think about the radio. I did check the ESC for WOT. I had the torque limiter on it around 50amps for stock. But when I opened it all the way for the mod, no change. That's why I was thinking ESC was bad.
Thanks again for the help.:thumbsup:

it's in your chassis bro. loose is fast...why are you guys using 2400's? hv's baby get em hot and hold on!

Forgot to mention (not that it matters) that my radio is Airtronics CS2P, 27mHz. It's older than my ESC. My friend and I are going to the track early next week and swap equipment around. I hope we find something.
katf1sh - It don't get no looser and still be able to drive it. In fact it was so loose (mostly going into the corner) that I changed the front geometry before the main just to see. It drove into the corner easier and wasn't any slower. Drove off the corner the same; hit your marks and stay in the groove.
As for 2400s, I bought them from my friend who upgraded to 3000s. (My wife left with my money so things are tight right now.:wave:) The two other guys running 2400s usually run stock. In fact we very seldom run mod at this track, except for 19t.
Thanks for your thoughts. :D

Burkie - Did you happen to watch the coverage of the Busch race at IRP on Saturday? Your man Smoke was in the booth and they got talking about his TQ run for the Cup race and he said "..we got a phrase to describe how good that car was - 'it was on stilts'..."

Rayce- alot of times the problems with going slow can actually be the car itself...if your car is driving like a cadillac its usually not going to be very fast...this sounds tough to swallow but ive had first hand experience with this at a concrete track where the car drove like a dream but wouldnt go fast at all...i took the TQ's motor and was over 2 laps slower than he ran...before you go out and buy a new speedo see if a friend has one you can borrow and only change that to see if it might be the culprit...if it is go but one...if it isnt put yours back in and rebuild your car to make sure there is no binding anywhere that be slowing the car down...dont get discouraged and dont change too many things at once because you will start chasing your tail and be completely lost.

Mike- i didnt hear him say it but it doesnt surprise me at all...too bad on sunday his "stilts" got reduced to firewood.

All about Elliot baby...he was on stilts...haha...old man still gettin 'er done.

I am narrowing things down thanks to you guys!!!

I have a car lined up that is a Hyperdrive 510BT that has the adjustable battery tray. I am wondering if I should get the standard wheel base or the short wheelbase 4-cell car for running stock at Classics?

Thanks again,
Ray

Ray- i always run a longer wheelbase car but thats the style i use...you can be alot more aggressive with front end setup which is how i set my car up...i ran my car long at classic at the nats and my car was very good but its more about driving style than anything....dont make a mistake and buy something that everyone says is the best but it actually doesnt work as well for you.

Ray, You have mail

Brian - Thanks for the response. I know what you mean about it could be the car. Been there, done that, got embarrassed. If that's what it is this time I hope I find it soon. It sure is frustrating. But since the car didn't even have straight-away speed with the mod makes me think it is something else. I plan on trying someone elses ESC next time.
Any suggestions to look for in the chasis? The front end is aligned correctly; very smooth movement; chasis not dragging, bearings are good. I changed the rear from a floating pod to a t-plate with the three shock system. If the problem is anywhere I would say it is there. But I don't see it. It looks square and straight. Equal travel on both side shocks. I've been doing this for 12 years and it hurts my feelings that I can't figure it out (if it is chasis).
I'll keep looking. Thanks for the help.

Hey Brian, at your seminar at Race Rock you said not to start charging batteries right from dead short. Let them sit for a while. I let them sit for about an hour, hooked them up to charger, but they did not show any voltage. is this a problem? Using 2400s. They seemed to charge up okay.
Also do you run the pod flat in relation to the chassis? I think this is called rake (CRS). Does it change depending on the type of track?

Thanks in advance. Ernie :confused:

Brain... I never got to say C-YA from Margarita'ville. Seems that those crazy drinks we were having made me turn crazy and say something to piss Julie off haha! She left me and I had to chase her down LOLOLOL!

We had a blast dude and I appreciate you giving all the info to the racers. Maybe we can get you down again next time.

See ya

Brian, im running the wolfe 1/8 dia. on-center axles in my L3. do you run these axles? and can you tell me a little about all the spacers and where i should space the wheels. what does moving the wheel in and out do? im running on a flat ashpalt track with pinks/purples? thanks in advance.

Hey Brian,

Sometimes when I rebuild the side shocks I get different results. Sometimes they rebound quickly, sometimes they rebound a little slower ( but they still come out all the way ) and sometimes I get one of each. I submerge the foam and squeeze all the air out and I fill the shocks to the same level. Is there a right way to do this?

Tom

Bigernie- certain packs will react diferently to dead shorting...if the voltage doesnt come up but they are still charging ok then there shouldnt be any problem...as far as rake goes i always run it at all tracks...i also make sure my shock piston is in the center of the body when the car is sitting at ride height...when you go over a bump and the car unloads if you dont have some reverse travel the shock will bottom out and the car will be very inconsistent...its hard to measure the amount of rake in a car so you can just kind of wing it.

give- yes i do run those axles...when i ran at racerock i ran 1/8" thick spacers...on the right front i spaced it so the right front is wider and put the left front spacer on the outside of the wheel so the wheel is pushed in...running the right front out helps the car turn in better because it puts more weight on the right front tire..the left front being also helps the car turn because the front end track is a bit narrower.

TOME- usually the biggest problem with those shocks is that the o-ring is bad...this may sound extreme but everytime you rebuild those shocks you should replace the o-rings so the shock will be more consistent...the o-rings in these shocks are not silicone so they swell really bad therefore making the shock inconsistent...unfortunately nobody has come up with a good silicone o-ring for these shocks.

another reason why the spacers on the front wheels like burkie says is good is because when you turn left with that setup the right front tire moves forward a bit and lengthens the right side wheelbase in relation to the left, which typically helps to increase the cars desire to turn left. (hehe the cars desire!).

kinda like on a little red wagon when you pull the front of it sideways the front wheels turn and one side gets shorter and the other side gets longer as the wheels turned, this combined with the wheels actually being turned, makes it easier for the wagon to turn (ie it makes the wagon freer).

now substitute your rc car for the wagon and your set!

Brian I've had the same experience as tome with those vcs side shocks and I rebuild with a new rebuild kit everytime,sometimes they come out good and sometimes they are a bear to get right,I took it as that's just the way they are.Does the mip blue o-ring not work in the vcs shocks I used to use them in the delta's?

The mip o-rings are for the marco style shocks.The hole is to big and they aren't as thick

I think I might have a friend who can get some good O-Rings for micro shocks. I will check tomarrow.:thumbsup:

walter is correct about those o-rings...im not sure what the problem could be with the shock reacting differently when you rebuild them...shocks are a black magic that im not sure if anyone has mastered.

the only reason "if everything is new" that one rebounds faster than the other is the amount of shock oil in the shock or the lack of shock oil in the shock. you will work very hard to get the exact amount of oil to stay in 2 micro shocks. i'm sure it could be done but it would take awhile. could someone please design a better easier faster to build micro shock? you will be rich over night! imagine a micro shock that you rebuilt like a losi shock.

Brian have a question about the keyence Zero V extreme
can you give some staritng points on where to set all
the values for stock and 19t class...Any help would be
greatly appreciated Thank's

Yeah, a smaller version of the losi shock would be good, or a smaller version of the hpi proceed shock used as a side shock on an oval car ..... now that would be sweet...... smoooooth and easy to build:D :thumbsup:

a losi style shock is actually feasible but the reason that the hpi shocks are so good (primarily) (proceed or otherwise) is because of the bladder. geting a mini bladder woudl be hard.

actual losi style cartridges would be hard to make smaller too :(

l8tz

Everytime I have diffuculty rebuilding a Micro shock I pause for a moment .... and think about how much fun it was to rebuild Delta shocks. Now that was an adventure with little springs bouncing around in the trailer,and there was always more shock oil on you than in the shock. One run and they would need rebuilding.
R/C Oval.com Mag did a great article a while back on rebuilding shocks. It helped me out with getting back to the basics, sometimes I forget the simple stuff when Iam wrenching. Must be that "done that been there" mentality...seems to get us driver/mechanics in trouble from time to time Wade

I am interested in using Wolf springs on my 10L3. Is there a comparison chart to match the Associated springs?
Is there any advantages in using the progressive spings? What applications are the progressive best used for?
About how long do the springs last before they need replacement?

Please add your opinions and/ or other information in using the Wolf springs.

thanx

Do any of you guys use basiclly the stock shock setup on your L3Os? Im using the stock setup with a tc3 threaded center shock, front end i have wolfe red right spring and purple left. I also use the B3 conversion, which uses b3 axles and a ball cup on the upper arm for less play.

In addition, i flipped my turnbuckles under the axle to make the steering more aggressive. you have to fil down the control arm where its mounted on the chassis for the turnbuckle to clear, but it works great.

Instead of using associated ride height adjustments in the front, use washers, or even wheel bushings, especcialy on flat tracks.

Paragon Tire sauce doesnt compare to B&B on asphalt. They are a small company, email me maverick@integy.net if you want some.

Finally, BRP wings SUCK! I build my own wing, but it doesnt hang out back behind the axle. Its mounted closer to the front, thats ust the setup here.
:)

Sal, heres one of the answers to your spring question:

Associated VCS Micro Shock Springs
Black 4.000 lb
Green 6.000 lb
Silver 8.000 lb
Blue 10.00 lb.
Gold 12.00 lb.
Red 14.00 lb.
Copper 16.00 lb.

Wolfe VCS Micro Shock Springs
Opaque 11 lbs
Gold 13 lbs
Silver 15 lbs
Black 17 lbs

Wolfe Standard Front End Springs
Orange 4lbs
Blue 6 lbs
White 8lbs
Red 10lbs
Green 12lbs
Purple 14 lbs
Black 16 lbs

Wolfe Progressive Front End Springs
Orange 4-6 lbs
Blue 6-8 lbs
White 8-10 lbs
Red 10-12 lbs
Green 11-13 lbs
Purple 12-14 lbs

Wolfe "Bubba" Springs for the Front End (non-progressive)
Black 18lbs
Gold 21lbs
Silver 25 lbs

As far as progressives when to use them and when to not........ im not sure, I usually stick with the non-porgressive, they seem more consistent to me, but I could be wrong

no way josh! get on it bro! asap

Brian,everyone - I got my car fixed. And it was chasis, not ESC. :rolleyes: T-plate to be exact. I TQ'd and finished second. Thanks for the help.
:thumbsup:

Hey Katfish where do you let off in the turns at the carpet track?

katf1sh never lets off in the turns! lol you realy just maybe burp the throttle to set the car up in the turn. my 10th car was a little to free all day. i would like to get it to push up off the corner a little bit. were you at j ville sat night bro?

You Know the AT&T guy who just got off work.I met you and C-Dog

Hey Brian, do you have a good set-up for a nitro off-road 1/8???:lol:

lol

Pace

Rayce- im glad it all worked out for you...its usually not the obvious or the easy thing to pin a problem on..im glad you found it.

EMK- in 19t i run my drive freq. at 3khz, in mod i use 7khz, ive never run it in stock but id use 1.5 in stock...i dont use the other settings because they dont really do a whole lot in an oval car.

Pace- you must have been talking to the frenchman!

Thank's Brian for the advice on the Keyence

I'll give it a try

your right Brian...frenchman told me the story!! and he say your better in oval than off-road!! lol

Pace

Pace- im blaming the track more than anything!!

oh yeah bigdog your the guy who is gonna hook me up with cheap(wink,wink) broadband cable. right? lolololol

Hey Brian,

When should I use the third mounting hole on the t-plate ( the center hole on the pod)? What does using it do?

Tom

The customers always Right Sir! lololololol Yes Then everyone would want free cable, Right guys? lolololol

TOME- the third hole on the L3 t-bar in the center is for rear traction and it helps to soften action of the t-bar when it is removed...i always started with it in then if the track was a bit bumpy or you are too loose you can remove it.

TOME- the third hole on the L3 t-bar in the center is for rear traction and it helps to soften action of the t-bar when it is removed...i always started with it in then if the track was a bit bumpy or you are too loose you can remove it.

Brian...When cycling Sanyo 3000HV's on a T35 would you recommend 1 or 2 peaks. I have always used 2 peaks with my 2400's, but SMC's site recommends 1 peak for HV's. Please give me your opinion and what difference 1 vs 2 peaks will make. Thanks.

where can i get a bladder for my hpi center shock????

keith

RYR- i dont do alot of cycling of my packs to be honest with you...i run for SMC and if dannys site says that one is best then i would have to agree with that...he really knows what is going on about batteries so i would take his advice.

RCK- the part # for that bladder is HPI 6814...try your local hobby shop.

After a lot of studying the forum and a couple of questions, I have my L30 running much better but I'm still a little too loose for my driving ability. I could tweak the pod over (again) but wanted to start experimenting with tires. I'm running purples on all four corners right now. I've heard people say but a pink on the left rear to tighten the car up. But what's the difference between putting a pink on just the left rear vs. putting pinks on both rears?

RacingStorm the right rear tire controls more of the rear traction while entering the turn. as the left rear controls more of the tracton while exiting the turn. so if the car feels god going in but loose off then just change left rear. if th car is loose going in and off the try two rear tires. thats the simply version but you get the idea. sorry for butting in brian just though i could help. when you racing next.