Budget: My son and I use Boca Bearing Ultra Seals in all our cars, electric Oval, 200mm Gas Touring, and 1/10 Gas Onroad and they work fine in all those applications. The prices are very competitive and service has always been excellent.

HI DODGE, THANKS FOR THE REPLY. I HEARD THEY WERE GOOD. WHERE DO YOU PURCHASE THEM? THEY MIGHT BE HAVE LOWER PRICES THAN FROM THE MANU. I AM SURE WISHING I WAS BACK THERE IN FL. I LIKE THAT STATE AND FROM WHAT I READ ON THIS BOARD. YOU GUYS HAVE A FEW TRACKS BACK THERE IN THE SOUTHEAST. YOU SHOULD READ THE OVAL TRACK CLOSING THREAD. THAT ONE IS ONLY 2 HOURS FROM ME. BUT ROAD COURSE AND OFF ROAD RACING IS POPULAR OUT HERE.

I'm running an L30, on a flat asphalt track and am realitively new to oval racing. I've read in the thread about "left wedge" and trying to run the car flatter. I'm running the pod offset, the stock springs up front, associated blue on the right rear, stock silver on the left rear, a red on the center, and run BSR purples in the rear and TRC purples in the front. I've got the left rear backed all the way off and the right rear cranked half way over. As a result, the left front tire lifs off the ground when the car sits without a battery in it. Is this "left wedge"? How would I best flatten the car out? Go stiffer in the right front and equalize the rear springs? Would also going to a harder tire in the right front be going in the right direction? The car hooks up well on the local track and I've even won a race or two, but the setup seems really weird and I've received many comment about the amount of tweak I have in the t-bar.

What size front bearing do you use Brain? 1/8(small hole) or 3/16(big hole)? and WHY?

storm you need to get the team chassis conversion. secondly you need to upgrade to wolf front springs. like greens and purple springs up front. center spring go with a green one. side shocks are gold and red red left gold right. pink left rear purple right rear if track has good bite. purple fronts maybe a pink left front again if track has good bite. all that wedge has got to tell you you are doing something god awful wrong bro! monte carlo hd light weight protoform body. all these set-ups are here and have been posted a million times. why does someone always have to re post these set-ups every week? brians oval thread hit print and sit back and wait for 250 pages to print out. when done read every page while taking a #2 . highlite what sounds good to you. put in a folder and save for a rainy day. that set up is for 6 cell stock. 19t 4 cell may vary a little. i cant stand the stock 10L30 chassis. the team chassis is a ok car.

Brian,

What kind of adjustments would you make for extreme hot weather(100+) on banked asphalt oval? Car not handling real bad but seems to have lost it's umph,to the tune of about two tenth's.

HEY PEPE, WHERE DO YOU RUN ON A HIGH BANKED ASPHALT OVAL? DO YOU RUN CAPS OR FOAM?

THANKS

RacinStorm, You don't have to go out and buy the team conversion chassis. The stock one is fine for most applications. Your problem is lying in that you have too much lr/rf diaginal, which means you have too much weight on the LR and RF and not enough on the RR and LF the car isn't balanced. I would start over by puting the pod level with the chassis then turn the RR shock in a little bit so the left side of the pod is slightly lower than the chassis. This will probably make your car a lot looser than you are used to. I would have a Pink LR handy to tighten it back up. And don't be afraid to put .020-.050 reverse stagger(LR bigger than the RR) to the rear tires. I do also recommend getting the Wolfe Long kingpins, simply due to most tracks aren't smooth enough for the stock assoc. springs. The wolfe springs soak up the bumps much better and you have a better spring selection.

jflack, I'm not sure about Brian, but I have used the small 1/8" axles and bearings for a while now. Besides the tuning help from moving the front wheels in and out with the Wolfe axles. The 1/8" bearings have bigger balls(no pun intended) which means you can get balls with a higher tolerance, and they seem to not wear out as fast.

I'm running caps Green L's left side Blue R RR Blue S RF.

dannyb is right concerning front bearings. the 1/8 id bearings last MUCH better than the 3/16 ones. 3/16 need replacing all the time! plus 1/8" shims are easy to find!

Brian you said earlier that my G-Force is still a competitive car with a little up grading. What might those upgrades be? I have the metal slotted T-bar that you recommeded to someone a while back and am expecting the wolf king pins and springs in this week. Is there anything else you recommend for the car?

Racing- the first thing you should do is rebuild your car...when your car has that much wedge in it to get it around the track there is usually something else wrong like bent kingpins, bent motor plate, or any number of things...just inspect everything really good when you rebuild it...you dont need to buy the factory team conversion but if you have the money it wouldnt hurt.

jflack- just like everyone has said i too run the small front bearing becasue they spin much faster and last alot longer.

pepe- hot weather adjustments depend on the track and how it reacts to heat...cars will always react the same but the track is the variable...usually if you slow down when it gets hot its because the car may not be as free as it was so you usually have to make adjustments accordingly...some tracks a car gets tight when its hot and others the car gets loose....im not sure how your track reacts so its tough to say what to do...try making small adjustments either way and see how the car reacts.

chuck- if you havent done it already i would put the associated side shocks on...they give you much more control over dampening and spring rates...that would be the biggest thing i would do and you should be ok.

Brian I have the associated side shocks the big ones, VCS only thing is on the last race the plastic nut to hold the spring up stripped out on me. Does someone make a metal nut or do I have to get more plastic ones? Thanks for your help Brian:thumbsup:

chuck, IRS makes nice aluminum shock adjusting nuts ...... ask for them at your LHS. The part#'s are IRS353 (just plain ole silver) IRS353BL (blue) and IRS353P (purple).


you can find pics of them here www.teamirsrc.com or order them here if your LHS cant get them.

:thumbsup:

chuck- there is the answer to your question...the IRS collars are great...they are the only ones i ever use.

Brian I am having a problem with esc how can i find out how to power an esc seperately from the cars battery or what is a budget class racing esc.

Firemarshal- a good budget ESC is the Novak explorer or you can check out the line of budget ESC's that LRP has to offer...they are all good products and i think they have a lifetime warranty.

Thanks cneyedog, and Brian, only problem is my nearest hobbie store with these parts is in Milwaukee six hours away. I do alot of business with AAA Model Supply in Blountville Tn. though so I will have to give him a call. I'm glad to find out these things so I don't have problems on the track. Thanks again.:thumbsup:

Hi Brian!-
Just wondering about the front axles on the Associated front end set! What are the effects on handling between using the inline axles included in the kit & the other optional ones using the smaller bearings? (Sorry,the name of the other axles escapes me! "Offset" axles??) In what conditions would you use the smaller "offset" axles & steering blocks-flat oval,banked oval,carpet,etc?

Thanks
-George Ramos

I received a couple of suggestions here to rebuild my car. I've got the thing all over the bench right now and have found a couple of things that I know how to deal with, but I've found some 'bind' in the front end, especially the kingpins. Should a good polish job of the pins be all that is needed? Any other tips and tricks to free up the front suspension? Better yet, any good front-end build guides on the net that anyone is aware of? I seem to remember Brian talking about how it takes him a few hours to (re)build a front end, what fit and finish things are you looking at that elongates the process to a couple of hours?

www.rc-oval.com has posted a good article in this months issue on chassis set-up in which the writer does recommend polishing the king pins and a couple of other things if binding is present. Give it a read over, it should help.

great link tg that is worth printing out and saving. but...it now has me thinking about running a short wheel base. that equates to lots of wrenching on my part. errrrrrr

irvan- i actually never run the trailing axles(small) in any of my cars...they make the car more stable to drive but they also take steering out of your car.

Racing- polishing the kingpins on the front end is a must...i use Mother's Mag wheel polish and chuck it up in a dremel....i polish them for a while to get them real smooth.

Hey Brian Whats the best way to stop the car from lifting the left rear in the corner !!!!!! 4 cell stock its fine but mod and 19t its spinng the rear tires mostly the left !!!!!! Thanks HACKSAW:devil:

Hacksaw - It's because you've got too much Hp!! :)

Good job for your win in 19T at the RACE ROCK in Orlando!!:thumbsup:

can you post your set-up here??

thanks!!!

Pace

Hey TS I wish I had some HP!!!!! SEE YA HACKSAW :confused:

Hacksaw - Last time I saw you and Eric race at MSA is was the best racing I've saw!

hacksaw- the easiest way to stop that is by putting some left rear wedge in the car...if you put tweak in and its still doing it you may have a tweaked chassis.

Pace- thanks buddy..my setup was as follows
RF- purple tire,red spring
LF- pink tire,green spring
RR- purple tire,blue spring,25 wt oil
LR- pink tire,gold spring,25 wt oil
35 wt oil in center shock spring with associated green spring
offset pod with full width rear tires
trc medium spring steel t-bar
used tire tweak for traction compound

Thanks Brian I'll give it a try !!!!! TS these young guys make it hard on us old guys we have to work to hard !!!!! SEE YA HACKSAW:devil:

hey burkie,Im looking for a used turbo 30 or 35 can you hook me up?....let me know.......David:wave:

Almost forgot....Billy K had one on DO....ask him if he still has it.

.................................................. .......................................BULLDOG:wav e: .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ...................................x.............. ......................x........................... .................................................. ..........................x....................... ...........x...................................... .................................................. ......x........................................... .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ..................

Brian and the whole gang here,

I am giving Oval a try for the first time this winter at Classic's track in Akron. I was wondering if you could recommend a chassis that is by far the easiest for a newcomer to start with. I want easy to drive, easy to tune. After I get aclimated to only turning left, then I'll consider other cars. In another way of putting it, I want a car that works "well" out of the box and has limited , but effective tuning ability (i.e Put some wedge in it and it does what its supposed to-textbook!!). I am planning on running the 2003 Snowbirds in 12th stock GTP and possibly Stock sedan foam, but I might as well run an oval class as one class if I'm gonna be down there!!!

Thanks,
Ray

Hmmm... let me clarify-I am a newcomer to Oval with a few years expoerience with on-road carpet and Nitro racing on-road. I have a good understanding of vehicle dynamics, at least for road-racing. There-thats better. :thumbsup:

Ray,I've had a chassis from almost every mfg-except Hyperdrive and there all pretty equal if tuned properly.I would look to see what the fast guys at your track are running that way is easier to get set-up help if youfind yourself in left field.Also in my experience the same tuning techniques work on most chassis.

Hi Ray,

I guess that's what Frank Peachock and Rick Lier would tell you to consider... And, if you're looking for a basic setup you can visit my setup page at http://www.TeamPolePosition.com/setup.htm

Steve Salvas :thumbsup:


Rick said...

The Hyperdrive 0510 (short) TQed 4-cell stock and finish 2nd and 3rd and in 4-cell 19-turn they finish 1st and 2nd. The second place car was bought off the Hobby Shop wall after the first round of qualifing and put together in time for the last 2 rounds. So yes they do work well on carpet.
Rick Liehr


Frank said...

Yes I have to agree with Rick. I was the one who was sitting 14th in 19t after 2 rounds of qualifiers at the 2002 ROAR carpet oval nats, and after alot of thought i got a 510bt of the shelf at about 11p.m. that night, so after about a 9hr. wrench session which ended about 8a.m. we got the car out just in time for a hot lap and then the 3rd. qual. i went from 14th to 8th and honestly i cant remember what happend in the 4th qual. but in the mains i went from 8th to 2nd and the car only seen the track 3 times before the mains! I WISH I HAD MORE TIME WITH THE CAR THAT WEEKEND, WHO KNOWS WHAT IT COULD OF DONE? So yes the car is awesome on carpet i wouldnt run anything else!
Frank Peachock

Even though I currently have Hyperdrive cars the most competitive car out of the box in my opinion is the Racetech car.It comes with a decent shock mount and a good axle and hubs.With the Hyperdrive line you will need to pickup atleast a shock mount and center shock,and the body posts included with the hyperdrive kits are worthless.Again I love the cars but I think you get more for your money with Racetech.

Hoopd1, I truly respect your post, but ... can you tell me what you see wrong with the VCS macro shock included in the HD kits?

Thank you.

Steve.:wave:

Thanks for the tips guys. I think a Hyperdrive will be the way I go. And yes, I will go check out Classic's track and see what the car of choice is as well. As you know they have a banked carpet oval track, which i mt pose some different set-ups than the flat and/or perfectly smooth ovals require. It's funny, but I keep thinking back to endless hours of tuning cars on NASCAR Sims!!! hahahaha!!!! I am thinking I need to start playing those old games again to get back up to snuff!!!:lol:

For Akron, you can't go wrong with the Hyperdrive 510st, the locals have that plan dialed in. If you can afford to wait it may be worth it to check out the new hyperdrive car:devil:

As far as kits go, check out the retail prices, it is pay me know or pay me later, so it basically all equals out.

Hoopd1, did the deal pan out on the 510? What will be your excuse next weekend?? :lol: :eek: I smell 50 laps at SS:roll:

Racin' Steve, See ya at MSA for the nats??

See ya 75% Danny... (moving to new house oct 15th) I should make it!

Steve.:confused:

Brian, good job in FL. I need to give you a call soon...

Ray - These guys dialed you in. The Hyperdrive is a great car and they are the most predominant car at Classic. Frankie and Ricky have spent alot of time there and are good guys, so you should be able to get up to speed quickly.

Pace - I lost your email address so email me when you have time.

ADX-I found a very good condition used 510today, but funds are too low to pick-it up this week!!! I hope that 510 is still available in two weeks!!!

Frankie and Ricky-do you know if Walt lets people sell batteries, motors and brushes from their pit tables? I am a dealer for Putnam Proplusion and Pro-Match now and was hoping to race and sell batteries while in Akron. In fact-let me call him now and see what he says!!!

Thanks again,
Ray

I called Walt and asked him when season starts at Classics (September-or when its cooler in there), etc. and also what his opinion is on my bringing product to the track and he said no-and I am 100% cool about that!! He has to keep the lights on!!!

Thanks alot ADX...it was alot of fun down there...nice to just go to a race and not kill yourself...give me a call.

Steve,nothing wrong with Macro shock but the last car I got from them sept of last year came with a gold aluminum buggy shock.If I was going for thr retro look it would have been great:D :D
Danny,what are you gonna do if I have a real car???????:eek: :cool:
I didnt even know we were racing this weekend:confused:

out

Danny What is the new hypedrive going to be and when is it going to be on the market??

HOOPD1, you know I was just giving you a hard time. I was refering to the next race at SS which is next weekend not this weekend! I forgot you have to work though, that sucks. Speaking of retro wouldn't the gold shock look good on your race car? Maybe a car made in this decade would help??:lol:

Lil'Al. The car is still in the prototype phases, I can't really say on the release date cause I don't know. The goal is to produce a car that is perfect, not just through it out there and work out the details later. Good things come to those who wait.

Mr. ADX check your mail!! and mine is: pace72@hotmail.com

TEAM frenchy

Pace:devil:

I just started running concrete oval again in the last month or so. Dusted off my old car, and after a couple of weekends had it handling pretty good but just not fast enough. Bought a new stock motor, tuned it and could only run low 6's. The fast stocks are running mid 5's and there is a 6.0 breakout class for those who can't tweak the mid 5's out of one. I can't even run 6.0's. :cry:
This weekend we ran modified and I couldn't run 6.0 with an 11 double. :mad: Put the motor in my friends car with the same gear and he was turning 5.1's and 5.2's. I find it hard to believe it is my chasis. The bearing are good, the tires are balanced, the front end aligned properly,???
Now the kicker. I had to gear up 4 to 5 teeth to run mid 5's. I was running 2400's and making 4 minutes. Other guys were running 2400's and dumping.:confused:
Could it be my ESC? It is a Tekin 411-G2 that I've had for probably 8 or 9 years.
Any thoughts?