DP- turbo 30 works fine...you have to adjust the peak detect voltage to .07 volts or .08 volts.

Yes, a T-30 will charge 3000's it's really no different from a T-35 just a new look and a couple of new bells and whistle's,I've had friends that traded their T-35 for a T-30, for some reason they said they couldn't figure out the MaH and MaW feature when cycling their packs.

Hey Brian,

When you go to a track for the first time, how do you set your car up?
What do you change first, second, etc. to get the car just right.

Thanks,

Tom

I could use some help/ ideas on my 10L3.

The track is about 255ft flat Tri Oval, treated asphalt.
We run 4-cell stock, at 4 minuts.

The set-up that I'm currently using is close to everyone else.
VCS Shocks with silver springs, green spring in center all 40wt. Offset pod, GM3 at 104/39. FL spring .20, FR spring .22. 2deg castor, with 0deg mount. Front tires purple, green rear.

The fast guys run about 35 laps. I'm about 33 laps.
I do know that I need more practice, but is there anything that I can do to help me out?
When entering the turns I have to slow down, other wise the car will push too much and hit the outer wall. Because I'm slowing down it seems I don't have any punch to catch up to the others.
also..What would the roll-out be for this track?

This Saturday (22nd) the Midwest Tri-Clone will be having a Night Race. A whole day of Practise and a Night filled with racing. Anyone planning on attending the ROAR Region 5 Paved Oval Race in August, This would be a great oppurtunity to practice of it

Lots of Pit space, food and Soda I'm Sure it will be a great time.

Brian, can you post, or tell which page it's posted on, the setup you ran for 4-cell stock at the snowbirds?

Salrusso-
Your situation sounds like mine-trying to hang w/the fast guys! But I'm getting very close!! :D

Your front end setup sounds/looks like what I've been running lately. I also have to back off in the turns,but I back off (or "burp" the throttle) in the very beginning of the turns. You only "burp" for a split second. This allows my car to get settled for the turns. By the time I get back into the throttle, I'm in the middle of the turn & ready to go full throttle coming out of the turn.

Another thing you might try is to run your RF caster at 0 degrees (both shims in front). Leave the LF caster alone. Practice as much as you can-especially the approach into the turns!

Good Luck!
-George

PS: Sorry-not sure about the rollout
:(

George
I'll try changing the RF caster. Do you have diffent camber setting for right and left?
I'm still working on the burping technique, hopefully I'll get it down soon.

thanks
sal

Brian, do you have any setups for 1/12 scale flat oval. We are starting this class Sat. and just looking for a good starting point, I'm running a 12l3 on 180ft run line with a ponitac body and bud's mini wing.:thumbsup:
We are running 19t 4 cell

Brian any tips or tricks on taking the slop out of the Associated font end?This drives me nuts even with all brand new parts there is way more slop than there should be.

Hey Bob, I'm not Brian, but I just rebuilt my front end this past week and used it this weekend, and here are a few things that I did that made it ABSOLUTELY slop FREE...the only slop was from the bearings haveing a very VERY slight wiggle. First start with a new Kimbrough Servo Saver...I prefer the large "gas" ones they are black and are heavy duty..they have a heavier spring which means if you hit a wall really really hard, they won't save the servo as well, but they do fine. Then, new ball cups are a must. And keep all the little plastic bags that the ball cups come in, we will use them later. I build frontends with the B3/T3 Kingpins. But you need to chuck the pins in a dremel and polish them up. Then use new lower pivot balls, put some lube on them and the pins and make sure they are smooth. assemble everything up like it should be. I use Hyperdrive Adjustable castor blocks, and like them because they have very secure set screws, but the new blocks from KSG or Racetech will do the same...I also use HG titanium hingepins just because they were mislabeled at the hobby shop and I got a bunch for $3 a pair. Now, for the trick with the bags, put the bag over the ball stud, then pop on the ball cup, what this does is put plastic between the stud and cup, and makes the connection tighter, it is not so tight as to restrict movement, but it does take out any slop. And when you tighten the caster block set screws, make sure that the pins are pushed all the way in, and I hold slight pressure on them as I tighten to keep everything snug, now, that should do it, and your frontend should be tight and slop free.

TOME- thats a tough question to answer without writing a book...i do start usually with a general setup and make changes as i go after i get to the track...most of the tracks we go to i have already raced at so i have a pretty good idea of where to start...if its a track that im not familiar with then i just use a base setup depending on flat or banked...if you go to a track that you have never been to and you dont have a setup thats really off the wall you should at least be able to get around and then make adjustments from there...the first thing i change is the front end because i want my car to have as much mechanical grip as possible...the next step is side springs...i dont usually mess with oils too much unless the track is very bumpy.

salrusso- the things "I" would change would be to go back to a centered pod especially for 4 cell stock...the next thing i would do is stiffen up the side shock springs to keep the car flatter in the corner....both of those will help the car get into the corner faster and roll throught the center of the corner better.

brians11- i didnt run 4 cell stock at the snowbirds...i just ran 19t,4cell mod and 6 cell mod...i know i posted my 4 cell setup somewhere on here but im not sure where or how to find it....keep your eyes open for a future Car Action and it will have my snowbirds car in it.

JON- i havent run 4 cell 1/12th scale in a while so i wouldnt really know where to start. sorry

Bob- ovalman pretty much nailed it with how to build a good frontend..the only thing that i do differently is that i dont use B3/T3 kingpins...i use the stock setup or wolfe kingpins and use the tapered kimbrough servo saver because the ackerman is better for my driving style...the plastic bag trick is a very inexpensive way to get slop out of the ballcups and we have been doing it for about 10 years...biggest thing to realize that if your front end is very free and has no binding at all but it does have just a bit of play in it dont worry about because once a car is at speed and is settled into the track the play takes care of itself and will not affect the car at all...hope this helps.

Originally posted by salrusso
George
I'll try changing the RF caster. Do you have diffent camber setting for right and left?
I'm still working on the burping technique, hopefully I'll get it down soon.

thanks
sal

SAL-
I do have different camber settings for left & right. Usually I adjust the camber according to the tire wear.

-George

Anybody have a complete setup for the carpet pro(pivot pod car).for ontrax?

SCOTT,impact, I do have the setup ,Give me a call tonight at 607-277-9724 after 5:00pm and I will hook you up ,I also have thoe arms you need. I do not believe the pivot pod will work there you need a stiff car there SRM:D :D :D

Rocket i knew i could count on you!!!i have a new way of doing cells if you are interested 1.162 364 runtime is my best pack worst pack1.158 357 20 int i'll let you run and see what you think:dude: :devil: how short is the adx chassis and do you have to run the stock associated pod??you know where i can get one ???

Thanks guys that pretty much the stuff I've been doing the past 10 years or so.The thing that gets me is the amount of play between the pivot balls and lower and upper control arms.The stock Associated pivot balls just have alot of play even when new and you're using new lower arms.Guess its something you have to live with.

RUBBER BAND. Loop one end around one knuckle and stretch it around the other one. WA! LA! Slop be gone.:D

A rubberband is great on the bench but the force that the car sees on the track easily over comes the weight of the rubber band.Maybe I'm just being anal about the miniscule amount of play I have.
On another subject is there any place to get silicone O-rings for Associated micro shocks?

McMaster-Carr, www.mcmaster.com

Pennies on the dollar compared to rebuild kits.:thumbsup:

(and a million other goodies!)

While we're on the subject of micro shocks how about using an internal C clip instead of that flimsy plastic retaining ring thing,if so what size would I need? and what size O-Ring would I need to get from McMaster?

the rubber band tick does work well on the bench but once the car is at speed it doesnt really do a whole lot...you might as well just let the car find its centers and it really wont matter anyway...as far as the o-rings i dont really know what size it is but im sure you can find them in bulk...just look for one that looks like a bagel!

pepe- i dont know about using a c-ring..it should work but the size would have to be perfect to make sure it doesnt go anywhere.

The best way I found to get the sloop out of the tie rod ends is to pop it off and put a oring on the ball and then pop it back on it will last a long time !!!!!! If you get the bright colored ones it looks cool to !!!!! LATER HACKSAW:devil:

Brian...I just wanted to get your opinion on how to maintain Sanyo 3000 HV's. Everyone seems to recommend discharging to 5.40 volts (6 cell), but it seems there are differing opinions on if you should add charge back to them or tray them. Any advice you can offer would be appreciated.:)

RYR- with the Sanyo HV's we have been discharging them to 5.40 like you said and just letting them sit till the next charge...we have done testing with doing a small amount of recharge but it didnt seem to do anything...traying the battery will help voltage a bit but you will suffer significant runtime loss in the area of 20-30 seconds...this usually isnt a big problem in stock but in modified every bit helps.

Brian,any advantage to place a larger shim under a-arm left h.s.to let left front work more.

DOM- Do you mean under the entire arm itself? if so this will change ride height pretty dramatically and it usually doesnt help a whole lot.

Originally posted by Brian Burkhart
...traying the battery will help voltage a bit but you will suffer significant runtime loss in the area of 20-30 seconds...this usually isnt a big problem in stock but in modified every bit helps.

Brian,

How long would you tray them, and would you tray them after you discharge to 5.4 v, or right before you charge them?

I would also like to say Thank you very much for your time, I have been following this thread for a while now and have found a lot of very usefull info.

Thanks again,
Brent Pearcy

Brent- you can do it a number of different ways and they all seem to be about the same....when i trayed mine i did it for a few hours after the run and then just let them sit till the next charge...im glad to be of help to you all...im glad you find it useful.

Hi Brian,

i want to know how you prepare your modified motors?? what kind of brush are you using, spring, any break-in?? how often you cut your com?? how do you set the timing?? what are you doing for cleaning the motors?? and if you have more tips everything will be appreciated!!

thanks

TEAM FRENCHY is watching you!!!

Pace:devil: :thumbsup:

Pace- nothing really special..i run Trinity 4383 brushes full with red spring on negative and green spring on positive...i cut the comm every run when im actually racing...every 3 runs when im doing chassis tests...timing is tough because every motor is different and there is no set method...cleaning i just spray them out when i rebuild them...i never spray the can or endbell out though.

are you doing a little break in?? and how do you set the amp draw??

Pace

p.s. come on!! don t keep all your trick for you!!! :devil:

i break them in for about 30 seconds...amp draw depends on the motor...8 single i run at 12.5 amps.

thanks Brian!!

Pace:devil:

Hey Brian,

When should I consider using stagger? Do you use it on the front, rear or both? How much smaller should I true the tire and what would be the most you would consider taking off?

Also, how do you tune the chassis by using different side shock springs? I usually use a Wolfe black on the left and an Associated copper on the right. What would going softer do? And if I had softer springs what would go to stiffer ones do? What actually does the left spring do and what does the right one do? The class is 4-cell 19 turn.

And finally, what is the softest Wolfe front springs you would use on outdoor asphalt tracks?

Thanks,

Tom

Brian-
Remember awhile back there was a conversation about the red & gold VCS springs and which side is the Right side and the Left side? Well,just saw your car in this month's (well,August!) RCCA mag. Now I know which side you're talking about!:D The car looks great!

I am in the process of rerouting (and maybe shortening) some wires on my car. Are your wires for the speedo switch & receiver switch fastened down in some way so they wouldn't move around in or (even worse!) out of the car? Shoe Goo?

Thanks for helping us all!:thumbsup:

-George

TOME- i dont ever run actual stagger at any track im at...there are two reasons for this...say for instance you get you car to handle the way you like with .020 stagger...it is almost impossible to keep that stagger consistent therefore the car is going to change as the tires change size...the other reason is stagger in a pan car makes the car less aggressive as far as stering goes...this may sound backwards but because of the solid rear axle stagger doesnt work the same as it does in an independently sprung car...i actuall start my tires all the same size then let them go to destagger...destagger in pan cars actually make the car more aggressive both in and out of the corner...at the snowbirds i ran about .020 of destagger in my tires but it was because i let the tires wear in that way. as far as different side springs goes i dont run anything stiffer than red and gold unless its a very very high bite track but ive never come across one that has that much bite...going to stiff will upset the balance of the car becuase the front of the car is way ahead of the rear because of the difference in spring rates...too stiff will most the time make the car enter the corner with a "wiggle" and tend to get it loose coming off....as far as front springs goes the right is mainly responsible for getting the car into the corner and the left front is responsible for getting the car thru and off the corner...the left front is very important to getting the car to work but most people dismiss it. the softest spring i would ever run anywhere is a white standard.

irvan- i knew i was going to have to address this when that issue came out...that is NOT the setup that i ran at the snowbirds for springs...i actually ran them reverse of that...that photo shows the springs red on right and gold on left when in fact i ran just the opposite at the snowbirds...that was the setup that i used in akron and when Car Action called me i totally forgot to switch them around...the wires in my cars are not shoe gooed in...to keep them in place i just pull them snug where i want them and use zip ties to keep them together...the switches are just servo taped in...i used to use shoe goo but it took too long to dry...thanks for the compliments and im glad to help...keep the questions coming.

its a real shame...that car aint got no duct tape on it! hows it gonna run with no duct tape or super glue?...lololol....DP27:lol:

DP- ive stepped up to zipties and screws...im raising the bar!

do you use 2 or 4 screws to hold the rear tires on???

I found by using 1 you can save weight?

What do you mean 1 screw? Why not shoe goo? :D

rck- i use 4 screws to hold the wheels on...the amount of weight difference is not noticeable and using 4 screws keeps the wheel more true.

Thanks for all the info, I have taken many notes and can not wait for this winter to try them out. I do have a question about a bolink sprintcar, I race at a track that is a small bull rink of about 100' with an infield of maybe 4 feet. The surface is smooth cement and they put down some kind of traction aid and the track is covered so the temp may not very hugely during a day. The track is really slippery and gets even worse on bad days, Currenlty I run greens all around the car and was wondering if switching to yellow or maybe pinks would be better? Tire wear is no problem, you more often chunk the tire before you wear it out.

thanks in advance

I just let atmosheric pressure hold the wheels on, you wouldn't believe how much faster my car is without those screws.LOL

Hey Brian

were you also running four purples there... I got the bumpy track thing sorted out(.63 tee plate with a 3/8" slot...) but had zip for corner speed.. What front springs did you end up with..

I ended up with Ass. 22 on the lf and 20 on the rf.. Maybe wolf red and green would have been better.. I got almost no wear from the LF tire so I know ths setup needs work I just tested the 19 turn....

Brian,Mac car on asphalt cant get l.f.towork enough,wearing r.f.a little to much,little push,used center pod & offset should i take off battery tray with reciever mounted on it & put another tray on it so i could move battery up front more using 3 pinks & purple! green springs up front.

Dizzy, Last year at the track you are speaking of, I ran 56 laps with my ADX on 4 blues. Any other tire picked up too much dust to be consistent. Pinks and whites were the worst. I dont know what they did to their traction compound formula, but the one time I went there this year, I ran 39 laps. Nothing would bite. Let me know if the traction improves and I'll come up to race again.

Dizzy- in most of those situations you cant do much but hang on and drive like you never have...pinks and purples dont help at all and in fact will probably be worse because they pick up dust faster.

Sir- when i ran there i did run a red right front and a green left front spring...ive never been a big fan of ASC. springs on tracks where the suspension actually has to soak up bumps...keep in mind the Wolfe springs will make the car more aggressive.

DOM- you might want to try a red right front spring to let the spring do the work instead of the tire...if the car isnt loose coming off id definetely stay with the center pod...the battery tray might not be a bad idea you have to be careful not to unload the left rear by moving the battery up too much.

Brian,do you know anyone that stocks those racetech caster blocks you have on your mac attack?? :confused:
Thanks in advance Mark Z

Bat you can get those at Hobbytown in Indy
ask for Sonny #1-317-845-4106