Thought I would start a TC3 forum over here.

OK now that we got it started, lets forum.
Indoor season is coming soon. What has happened to the tct over the past year.
How are the lite (delrin) drives working?

etc

Rick

I don't know about the derlin ones but the composite ones from Associated are great.

The delrin drives slip with mod motors on just about any surface and with stock motors on carpet.

I'm with Pat, AE's lightweight diffs rock. Especially after they run in for a bit; it seems that for me at least after I build them, they need to be readjusted after a run or two, and then again about 10 runs later, but then they're perfect. Mine are at least 3 months old and they're the smoothest they've ever been. Using AE Green Slime on the diff balls and the black thrust grease that comes with the kit.

And I tossed a 10x2 into my car for a bit the other night; didn't notice any problems aside from me learning how to handle insane power. =D

Rats, I put my reply in the new topic section. You can tell I am new to this. Please view you all.

Delrin diff halves are different than the AE lightweight diffs......BIG difference.

Same with some of the aftermarket aluminum...they slip too.

what is the big difference between derlin and associated.....by your opinion

Inacorner, a derlin drive is a replacement piece for the original outdrives, they were steel and very heavy. Since your new dont worry about it, your cars probably have the lightweight Associated outdrives.

The difference is Associated designed their lightweight outdrives correctly and the derlin and aluminum ones out there are just a quick design that really had no thought other than using a lighter material than steel.

About motors, you do know there are different classes? Unless you are going to race modified dont worry about the motor causing you to loose. Also being new you do not I repeat you DO NOT want to run modified, your car will be in pieces.

Have you guys done much body testing? I have run two bodies so far and think both of them were good. The first of course is the Protoform Stratus, but what really suprised me was the brand new Parma Lexus. It almost seems to change directions faster and smoother than the Stratus, especially at high speed. I'd put a picture up, but I don't think we can do that yet. Just my opininion though. What bodies have you guys tried other than the tried and true Stratus? It gets old seeing 40 Stratus' every weekend!!!

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by rayhuang:
Have you guys done much body testing? I have run two bodies so far and think both of them were good. The first of course is the Protoform Stratus, but what really suprised me was the brand new Parma Lexus. It almost seems to change directions faster and smoother than the Stratus, especially at high speed. I'd put a picture up, but I don't think we can do that yet. Just my opininion though. What bodies have you guys tried other than the tried and true Stratus? It gets old seeing 40 Stratus' every weekend!!!</font>

Locally, the Protoform Contour/Mondeo seems to work well (similar to the Stratus). The Pf 300M seems to add top speed (better aerodynamics), but at the cost of being a bit more "loose" (more front downforce than rear, so not as balanced as the Stratus). The Pf Accord seems to have good steering, but is "taller" in the passenger compartment and more boxy, so it gives away some speed on the straights. One local racer is having success with a Mercedes body (not sure of brand), but I don't know any details... The new LOSI Stratus is a very different animal than the other Stratus bodies -- seems much more loose in the tail, and not as balanced as the older designs. OH -- the Andy's/Yokomo Stratus actually seems to have more downforce than the Protoform/Associated Stratus....

I like the looks of the Andy's body more too, but when I was in the wall every 3 seconds the pretty front end would crack at the fender wells. I'm a little better now. Try the Lexus!!! You will be suprised like me!!!

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by inacorner:
Rats, I put my reply in the new topic section. You can tell I am new to this. Please view you all.</font>

One thing to keep in mind... At the local HobbyTown parking lot races, new racers (which you seem to be) run together in the 'Novice' class, so you are not thrown to the lions... http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/wink.gif Check with your local track, but here, the RTR TC3's are treated as "stock" class cars for Novices -- normally the Novice class is limited to stock motors, but the 19 turn motors in the RTR's are allowed. Part of this is because, in all honesty, in the Novice class, the motor isn't what matters -- it's the driving! If you really are just starting out, you will run more laps in a race by driving at a moderate speed, staying away from the pipes, and just not wrecking than by going "fast"... http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/biggrin.gif

Enjoy the RTR's 19 turn motor, and worry about speed later... (By the way, the 19 turns are plenty fast for most tracks until/unless you are ready to go head to head with the big dogs in Modified.)


[This message has been edited by tfrahm (edited 10-02-2001).]

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by rayhuang:
I'd put a picture up, but I don't think we can do that yet.</font>

You can put pictures up... just put a square bracket '[' then the letters 'img' followed by the other square bracket ']', followed (no space) by the URL for the picture, then follow by the same bracket, '/img', bracket combination..

I'd like to see a picture of your Lexus...

[This message has been edited by tfrahm (edited 10-02-2001).]

Okay, here are two Lexus' of mine with very similar paint jobs. I hope this works
http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/1ee66946/bc/RC+pictures/Two+parma+Lexus+and+a+P35.jpg?bcjz.C8AdbnQDbtx
I hope the picture is big enough to see. if not feel free to look at my photo album at: http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/kartchamp20002000/lst?.dir=/RC+pictures&.view=t
[This message has been edited by rayhuang (edited 10-02-2001).]

[This message has been edited by rayhuang (edited 10-02-2001).]

[This message has been edited by rayhuang (edited 10-02-2001).]

[This message has been edited by rayhuang (edited 10-03-2001).]

[This message has been edited by rayhuang (edited 10-03-2001).]

Thanks for the URL... Those bodies do look very nice. A refreshing change from the usual Stratus...

Parma's web site only lists an 'LX 200' (I believe that's the way they list it)... Do you have a part number for the Lexus body you used?

Yeah, thats them, the Lexus LX200. It looks alot like the American IS300. It is also ROAR legal I just heard, so I am running mine at the Champs!!!!! Must have been an LX 200 Touring car racing in Europe or japan or something. I don't know. Sorry about the lousy-amateur post before. Had to try and get a free photo hosting site ASAP and kinda botched things up a few times!!!

The parma part # for the lexus is 10134 all the major distributors have them.
Thanks for the interest.MrParma

Does anyone know the part # for the AEs lite weight out drives

Thanks to Patcollins and Tfrahm for the information. I was not aware the RTR is allowed in stock class. I guess the only thing this novice is aware of at this point, is that my car has 4 wheels! I wonder if RTRs will be running in the stock class at JCC. I plan to be there Oct 20/21.
So, I will keep viewing this forum, learning, and one day I will have the saavy and/or lingo down like you experienced old timers! Again, thanks for the info.

Digger...there's actually about 4 part numbers you need, assuming everything in your steel outdrives is fine. (They sell a total diff kit too, but it includes the balls and gear which you shouldn't need)

I'm having trouble getting the PDF catalog to load, and I can't find my hardcopy of the recent catalog (I have the one from my 2 year old TC3, but they didn't exist then =) - but I believe all you need are the outdrives themselves, the bushings, the locknuts, and the D-rings.

That, and get used to adjusting the diff from the other side, for whatever reason, it's the opposite between the steel and light diffs. Hehe.

And...just making sure...you are upgrading an older TC3, correct? All of the new ones already have the light diffs - the Racer I got about 3, 4 months ago had them already.

As to bodies, I've ran the Protoform Accord...and really, nothing else yet. =P I have noticed that it does seem to give up on the straights a bit...and it does have plenty of steering, at the cost of high-speed stability - at the end of longer straights with the small included wing, the car is too loose to do anything with other than carefully take a sweeper. I run a large wing fashioned from a AE buggy wing, cut down a bit, sticks the rear like glue too. Mad downforce, but the drag isn't helping.

Looking at getting a GT40 whenever the shop stocks one. =)

i got my car in may, does it have lightened outdrives? im not sure how to tell.
there aluminum or steel n fairly heavy

The lightened ones are plastic.

If they feel like they have any weight to them at all, they're steel - the plastic ones weigh just about nothing in comparison.

If you really want to be sure; the steel ones are first metal instead of plastic (heh), they've got bearings inside instead of bushings, and the rings are just round rings, whereas the plastic diffs use D-rings.

If you still have the steel ones, I think it was $13 to upgrade more or less, assuming everything else in the diff is fine (and why wouldn't it be, the bevel gears in my oldest TC3 still look new) and it's definitely a worthwhile upgrade, you get rid of some major weight in the driveline. Probably the most effective weight-reducer on the TC3, really.

I am not sold on the lightweight AE outdrives... I sheared one off in Mod one night in the A-Main.. I'm about to just deal with the weight of the steel ones since my aluminum ones are slotting REALLY bad

I have a set of steel ones that I run when I run modified. I have never lost a race in mod because of lack of acceleration. I have never had a problem with the plastic outdrives but why take an unnecessary risk.

Hi all!

Are any of you guys racing on carpet with rubber tires?

Here in Sweden we race on carpet during the winters.

[This message has been edited by Airwide (edited 10-28-2001).]

Yes. Will be using Team Sorex 32's, 28's, 24's, and 20's....depending on traction. Inserts to be used will include Sorex medium (gray) and Yokomo mediums.

Hey guys! What's happening Pat? This is your old friend Eric back in WV. How's it been going?

I have run the Steel outdrives with Modified and the lighter ones with stock racing. The steel is really an added strength issue. I did melt 1 plastic diff with a modified motor. Maybe it was a rare thing, but it threw all the grease out of the diff and into the gear case. The diff let go on it's 4th run after a recent cleaning and re-greasing. It was a fluke I guess. Never had that happen before. So I use the steel as a precaution.

TC3 rules!!!!

Just wondering, as this has been on my mind for a while...

1. What benefits are gained on cars by running a center differential? I know you see this on 1/8 nitro buggies a lot...

2. Has anyone else ever thought of making the spur gear into a pan-car style differential to act as a center diff? =)

Anyone using the one-way diff on carpet? I've been using it at my last two practise sessions, and the car feels so much better with it than without it. The car gets better cornerspeed with it. What do you think?

Hi everyone:

I FINALLY made it over here.
brian11: you should either switch to the IRS pin coushins or the Shuie blades. (sorry about the spelling) I have run both and I went with the blades. (personal prefferance).
as for breaking the plastic diffs.....it does happen. my son broke two last year both during really bad crashes.
as for bodies I am going to try the ProtoForm Opel Vectra this weekend. I have talked to some people that have run it and it sounds a little more neutral than the Stratus. I'll post after the races Sunday (if I don't have to work).
Thanks

I'm strongly considering one of the RTR TC3's for a new electric toy, and am wondering if the community thinks I'd be OK, or that I'd be making a mistake. I'm sure I would rarely race it in organized events, and since I almost always buy used stuff, I'd love to have something really new and shiny! The last new vehicle I got was a Thunder Tiger TS4n 4WD Touring Car two years ago, and while it has been a GREAT toy, winter is coming to Indiana! ( I actually run both gas and electric in the winter, when there isn't snow or ice on the road, but my ancient fingers can get awfully cold and immobile!) Glen

Glennie: The TC3 is a great car, and very easy to drive. You wont regret your choice.

I think the Niftech pin saver system is the best out there. Big surface area so it doesn't cause slotting.

The IRS ones are okay, but I found they compress and smush, and they also eventually slot the plastic diffs.

Thanks for the comments, Airwide! I ordered it yesterday, and can't wait to see it! Glen

hmm..whats the one way diff?? i havent seen one yet ....where would i get it ??

I just got the IRS light weight outdrives and when I tried to tighten the diff the plastic piece that holds the nut that sits in the slot got pulled down (sucked into the outdrive) and wouldn't tighten enough. Has anybody else had this experience? Does anybody else know what the heck I'm talking about? When I used a replacement part from a spare diff I was careful to not tighten it too much but now it's not nearly as tight as I would like it. I can easily spin one wheel while holding the spur gear and the opposite wheel.

I have an older TC3 with steel outdrives. Can someone list the parts needed for the upgrade to AE's lite weight drives? I know that I need the 'd' rings, diff halves and the bushings, but what else if anything and the right part numbers.

Thanks

Rick

hey airwide, im using foams no carpet. and i was wondering what kind of body you guys are using.

Rick, you can buy the lit diff kit that has every thing in it for $20.00 for your LHS if they don't have it try AE.

The AE kit is a major ripoff, especially since you probably don't need new balls, thrust assembly, or gears...

Part numbers that are different:
3908 - outdrives
3907 - bushings
3904 - hex nut
3906 - D-rings

Everything else is absolutely identical between the two. Don't remember how much comes in each package, but you'll need four outdrives total (two short, two long), four bushings total, two hex nuts total, and four d-rings total. I think at least one of those part numbers you have to buy two of. I think the total cost was $11? Been too long, heh.

Hey vodo321!
Here in Sweden we are only allowed to use rubber tires. When it comes to bodies, the Protoform Stratus is best balanced body. The vectra is a bit more stable and the Andy's Type B stratus is a little bit more agressive. I haven't liked the original Andy's Stratus at all on carpet.

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by Kirker64:
The AE kit is a major ripoff, especially since you probably don't need new balls, thrust assembly, or gears...

Part numbers that are different:
3908 - outdrives
3907 - bushings
3904 - hex nut
3906 - D-rings

Everything else is absolutely identical between the two. Don't remember how much comes in each package, but you'll need four outdrives total (two short, two long), four bushings total, two hex nuts total, and four d-rings total. I think at least one of those part numbers you have to buy two of. I think the total cost was $11? Been too long, heh.</font>

Thanks for the help. I get the lady at my LHS to get them coming.

Rick

Picking up my Team TC3 later today, anything I should look out for when building it and during the first few runs? Thanks!

Jake
jakerowley@yahoo.com

If it has the composite outdrives leave off the shims and then take some sand paper to the inside of the tranny cases where the large bearings sit. The case is way to tight otherwise. Try putting it together per instructions first though and see what I mean.

Running on ozite carpeting mostly smooth with a few wrinkles. Stock.

What droop settings would you start with?
What shock oil?
What shock springs?

I plan on starting with 6 front 4 rear.
Oil 70 both front and rear.
Reds on front and Gold on rear.

What do you thing of my starting set up?

As for chamber, do most set it by tire wear?
Keeping tires wearing in middle.

Here is a basic setup for carpet...work from there. Adjust droop first after this.

Oil 60F, 50R
Springs Red F, Gold R....if traction rolling, go with Coppers F, Red R.
Camber 1 to 1.5 F & R
Droop - 5.5 and 5.5
Shocks...middle hole on shock towers front and rear.

Droop setting for carpet should be around 6 front & 4 rear. Try lighter oil like around 40 or 50 weight. Springs are pretty close with maybe going a step or 2 stiffer.Are you running foams or rubber tires? Also need to know if your running a diff or one-way in your car? High or low traction carpet and if it is bumpy or smooth? I can give you a more detailed setup once you give me details, but this should be close. I usually run around 2 degrees camber or so tires wear even.I like Robinson diffs the best. Mine have over 50 runs on them and are super smooth. Plastic ones seem like the mold is off and feel notchy.The also seem to lose there settings a lot.

Brian

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by RunninFree:
Running on ozite carpeting mostly smooth with a few wrinkles. Stock.

What droop settings would you start with?
What shock oil?
What shock springs?

I plan on starting with 6 front 4 rear.
Oil 70 both front and rear.
Reds on front and Gold on rear.

What do you thing of my starting set up?

As for chamber, do most set it by tire wear?
Keeping tires wearing in middle.</font>

OK I left off:
Running rubber tires. Sorex 20's and 24's with hpi's red inserts.

I set ride height at 5mm. I then set tweak on a friend's MIP balancer.

Stock set-up no one-ways.

Track is mostly smooth. It is only laid out on a gym floor. Its is taken up after every race weekend.