I am thinking of putting the NTC3 steering setup in a new chassis. I am wondering if anyone still has the link to where pictures with measurements can be found. I know you have to drill some holes and I would like to get it right the first time.

I saw it on Hobby Talk, but cant find the post.

SS

Go here, 3rd & 4th post on this page. Hope this helps!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=29&perpage=30&pagenumber=104

Thanks Nut.

SS

No problem, if you make it to Toledo I would be glad to let you take a look at my TC3. Just ask for Mike, I pit in the back.

NTC3NUT:

Hi,

have you ever thought about mouting your steering rack 180 degrees from where you have it now???? I have a chassis that I can mount it both ways and I really like it the other way. I will try to post a pic here or on the other thread soon

Thanks

Never tried it, post a pic & I'll check it out.

What is the ultimate servo for touring car? I have a Futaba Fm radio.
Thanks

I have had very good luck with the JR 8450 digital servo in my TC3. Walter

threefly:

Hi,

I run a JR 8714, 8450 in my sedans. also the 2143 from KO is a nice servo too. I am looking at the mew 9550 from Futaba.... most any digtail servo works great. for a nondigtail servo I will run a JR 4735/2750 servo.


hope this helps

Just to add to DaWrench's good list. Futaba's 9402 is about as good and fast a non-digital you can get. 111 in/oz's .10 to 60 degrees. If anything these specs are underated. The servo seems faster and stronger than other servos with better specs I've tried. I've been running mine for a year now in my TC3. Flawless.

What in your opinion is the best radio for
Touring Car? I am looking upgrade. I am
considering the Hitec M8, JR R1 and Futaba.
Are there any other good ones and any opinions
as to was works well in TC? Also, what is
it called where the first part of the steering
is slowed? Expo? Do the fast guys use it?
It seems like it would help.

I just got a 8450 servo and like it alot.

-Tom

I am sticking with my M8 now that the switch module is out. I just bought 2 xxtra recievers, so I should be set for a while. I like the feel of the new 3PK though.


My 3 year old 2143 KO still works strong. It has been in an e-maxx and a t-maxx also. This thing doesn't give up. I bought another one and I hope that the quality is still there.

Tim

Here are all the radios I've used and some their pros and cons (my opinions). I've never tried the Futabas or Hitecs so I can't comment on them. However, I know Tim Exelby's son uses Futabas. He can comment on those.

btw: if you want to try the JR R1 (probably the most technologically advanced of all the radios out there) -- I have one for sale for $280 shipped.


1. JR R1

Pros: pretty balanced weight wise. if you want to adjust it, you can do it with this radio. I don't think anyone ever uses all the functions on this radio.

Cons: expensive if purchased new ($399). Kinda big to lug around, but not unweildy.

2. Airtronics M8 -

Pros: Probably the most commonly used radio out there - especially by the pros. Plenty of support (especially finding stuff used) and pricing is pretty good. Has nice steering and trigger feel and travel. Also, Novak has a synthesized transmitter module for ths radio which is GREAT -- no crystals -- especially if you use it in conjunction with the XXXtra synthesized receiver.

Cons: Top heavy. I had a hard time holding this radio upright for long periods of time, which is why I switched from this to the JR R1 (which is heavier, but better balanced).

3. KO Propo MARS R - What I am currently using.

Pros: Compact and has a very nice steering and trigger feel. Very nicely balanced.

Cons: menu system is not very intuitive and is bit of a pain to navigate through. Chews through batteries. You can go fishing with the antenna (some might feel that should go under the "pros." haha) -- the antenna is super tall. You can't adjust the steering wheel spring tension.


4. Multiplex -

Pros: super light and cheap and has a very ergonomic case. Used Airtronics receiver crystals and receivers (I'm not sure if it still has that compatibility). I think this had the best trigger feel of all the radios I've used.

Cons: case color is kinda fruity. I though the steering wheel didn't have enough travel.



Anyways, most of these run between $170 (Multiplex) -> $400 (JR R1). They all are great radios and you should be happy with them all. There really isn't a 'best' radio once you get into that price range. They all pretty much have the same adjustabilities and functions so it all boils down to how much you want to spend, which radio feels more comfortable for you, and which physical design you like better.

The JR XR3 is a very decent radio, too, just to throw another in there (but I thought it didn't have enough steering wheel travel).

-Rich

I have an M8 and I think its a great radio except the steering wheel is too small, my hand cramps up after 5 minutes of a race.....can't imagine an hour long nitro race using it. Been trying to find some way of making it more comfortable while not making it look like a "redneck radio"

Expo can be beneficial, it can also be detrimental at times. The M8 has a "response time" adjustment that I use alot more than the expo. It is used to slow down fast servos in the forward and reverse directions (seperately) or to slow down throttle response too.

Hi,

My son has a new 3PK. by far it is the best Futaba radio yet. easy to get around in loads of features and the drop down wheel is nice. so far he has really liked this radio.

Pros... nice BIG display screen,quick set up screen, HRS RX, easy menus (3) to get around in,you can adjust everything on this radio. nice grip (fits both my hand and my son's). able to change to a drop down wheel quickly. (ours came that way) great balance. can convert to left hand fast and easy.

cons.....the instructions are somewhat confusing at first. the HRS Rx can only be used with a digtail servo. slightly heavier than a 3PJS. antenna is longer than most. modlue might be a little hard to get out at first. somewhat tempermental with the HiTec Sprectra module.can't use the Compac chip from the 3PJS. somewhat hard on batteries. different colour of the radio???

3PJS,

Pros,

nice radio, easy on batteries, decent balance, works with the HiTec Specrta Module.

Cons,

hard to get around in, had to remmember what set of bottons to push to get to a certain screens. small screen. hard on batteries. smallist grip. somewhat hard to get around in the menus.

M8,

I have limited time with this radio. it is hard on batteries. didn't like the fact that when you changed the centering on the steering servo you lost the amount you changed to the side you changed to. small grip. not as easy to get around in as some other radios. Jason didn't feel comfortable driving it.

R1,

Pros,

nice screen, easy to get around in. fit my hand without amy kind of wrapping on the grip. and everything Rich said.

cons,

the heaviest radio we have ever owned.

HiTec,

we have never owned one.

KO MARS.

pretty much what Rich said. I found the menus easier than the M8, 3PJS. but not as easy as the R1.

Thanks

Hello all!! I just got a TC3 RTR for Christmas. Also I am new to the hobby as well. I look forward to getting plenty of advice from you all and I cannot wait to start driving my car. I have to wait for a charger before I start running my car.

I am going with the Reedy Quasar Pro. I am also going to upgrade my radio too. I am torn between the MX-3 or the XR3-i.

Later,

Jeff

Go with the Airtronics, no question. JR makes an awesome radio, the R1. But their lower priced radios are not nearly as nice, I had an XR3 for about 6 months. I hated it the whole time, it ate batteries, was uncomfortable to hold/use and it was difficult to program. I have a Futaba 3pdf now, and love it. I used an MX-3 last weekend when I drove a buddies car for a couple laps, in that short time I could tell that I liked it more than I ever liked the XR3.

My .02 cents. :)
Jake

Thanks for the radio input.

Walter,

I ran my narrowed chassis that has the battery box lowered 0.0250" and batteries moved all the way into driveshaft and it does seem to handle better. By better-I mean car feels more predictable and more stable. I definately like that modification!!! Well worth the time and effort to do it!!!

Ray

Come on Ray! Pictures Pictures! :D
Jake

Here are pics of my chassis. I did mine with a dremel tho, so it probably doesn't look as nice as Ray's. :)

Pic of battery in place. The ruler is showing there is about a 10mm gap in-between the edge of the cell and the inner edge of the tub chassis.

Pic of battery clearing drive shaft.

Pic of batteries in place.

Jake-if I could wrestle the digital camera out of my dads grip for a day-I would. Its supposed to be a work camera-but you know dads!!!

Originally posted by rayhuang
Jake-if I could wrestle the digital camera out of my dads grip for a day-I would. Its supposed to be a work camera-but you know dads!!! LoL, Yeah my dad is the same way which is why I ended up buying my own! :)

Rich thanks for the pics! How long did it take you to do? It looks pretty cool and man is that tempting to try! How much did it help your handling? Have you seen the setup that Keith Hamilton runs in his TC3?
Later
Jake

I did two chassis. The first one probably took me about 2 hours to do since I wasn't sure how I was going to do the whole thing. The 2nd chassis probably took me about an hour to do it right. I'm sure someone else could do it faster, but whether it will look as nice is another story (if they used a dremel). A mill will definitely be quicker and have a better finish.

Yeah, I saw Keiths 4x2 config. I had thought about doing that when I first got a TC3 after doing some weight calculations, but I am too anal to split up my battery packs. :lol:

Moving the battery inward helps especially in sweeper type turns. The car feels flatter and better balanced.

Through fast switch backs it also feels a lot more balanced.

So, overall, the car is a lot more balanced feeling.

Originally posted by Rich
I'm to anal to split my packs LoL I thought about trying it, but its too much work for as often as I run road course. :) Now dremeling the chassis, that I could do. I'd probably mess it up though! LoL I guess I will have to take a look at the 'ol TC3 tonight and see what I can do with it.
thanks guys!
Jake

When you say the 3pk is tempermental with the hitec module, what do you mean? I was considering this radio because I love the way it feels....I am betting they come out with a module because there is no other reason for those slots on the module cover. I would only get it if it works with the hitec module in the mean time. Also does it get easier to remove the module as time goes on. Thanks in advance.

Jake,

I can save you the hassle of dremeling with a inexpensive alternative!! I have a new Composite chassis cut out beautifully on a Bridgeport. E-mail me for a price!! It has slots between every battery for extra cooling and to aid in taping batteries down if you choose. It has battery box lowered 0.0250", batteries moved inboard almost a 0.40". And also a square cutoout under the servo, and 4 holes placed under the front and rear tranny cases to lighten. Also the motor mount cut out has been enlarged slightly for better motor cooling and for less weight. Its sweet!!! JOneser has one-ask him what he thinks of it!!!

Ray
rshuang@ameritech.net

Ray, YGM! :thumbsup:
Jake

The work on the chassis that Ray has is good work...nice and clean. I have put mine on a diet though and eliminated more weight. I am now in the process of sanding the sides and bottom to make it nice and smooth with round edges. Should be completed this evening and ready to race Sunday!

Thanks Jones!
Jake

heres a pic. of the milled chassis.

Here is a shot from the bottom. Sorry about poor light quality!!! Notice extra holes under tranny cases!!

SHOW OFF! :D :lol:

Hey Ray

How far over did you go with the batteries? .... I ended up getting to 7 mm with batteries either forward or backward.

:dude:

Rodude65-we went in close to 0.40"!! We started with 0.125" then 0.200", then decided-what the heck-the chassis is still stiff as can be!!! I really like how they turned out!! This stuff is FUN!!! I only wish I could fit a CNC machine, Autoclave, Injection molding machine, sterosynthesis machine in my basement!!! hehehe!!!

Ray - it looks like my batteries are farther in than your's? The reason I ask is that you still have more of the center brace left than I do?

It doesn't look like Ray went in to the 1/2 way point. Still looks good though.

Rich and Mike,

I can go in any distance I want on the next batch of chassis done. Is there any benefit to going in further? My batteries bars are almost touching the driveshaft now!!! if you guys would measure from stock to where you have gone in, let me know!! Skies the limit on these things!!!

Ray

Ray, I have milled off everything up to the last "triangle" in the center brace. You should be able to see it in the pictures I attached. :) It probably moves the cells in a few mm farther in than what you have. I have the "posts" where I solder the wires to the speedo on the outside of the battery pack (see the pics for what I mean) -- I'm not sure where you have your's. This allows the cells to be a lot closer to the drive shaft.

With the 3300s being so much heavier than 3000s, every extra amount the cells are moved in helps. :cool:

-Rich

Hey guys! Been reading up on your posts on the milled chassis. I have been running the TC3 since it first hit the carpet. The very first thing i did was lower my batteries and servo in the chassis. (im talkin the second week i had the car) The second thing i have done is channel the center X's out..all except the last one on each end of the center brace for more torsional flex using a graphite chassis on high bite asphalt or carpet with sway bars. Then using the very same thing i also split the cells in a 2-4 configuration... the four on the driver side towards the back...receiver and speedo in front... then servo, two cells, and motor on the right. Car was exceptionally balanced (within .5 gram from side to side from battery change to battery change... front and back depending on the amount of solder on the battery connections i assume was the difference.) I have yet to see the need for moving the batteries towards the centerline of the car...the closer they are to the center, the twitchier the car becomes. It is true, the closer the weight gets to the centerline.. the faster the car transitions from left to right. So i guess it would depend on the style track you usually run on... tight and alot of chicanes... or open with alot of sweepers. And yes, i do have a few chassis for different style tracks. But when you begin to move the weight of the car to the center... you actually change roll moment of the chassis...and the eventual effect w/o changing other things on the suspension... is you are only making the car less efficient. (remember: we are all still aiming for the most efficient suspension/drivetrain within the same weight limitations... so why remove all that plastic from the chassis that is as low as it can get....just to have to add more lead above the original chassis line? Isnt that actually defeating the purpose of keeping it as low as it can go?) Of course... if you are running a 8x2 in the seat...it really isnt that important. LOL But as far as stock goes... efficiency is all the rage. One big package to cross the line ahead of the competetion! Anyhoo, my .02 cents, just thought id share. Once i figure out how to add pics... ill toss 'em in!

- Racer X :devil:

I think you'll find that a lot of guys who are moving the batteries in race on carpet on tight tracks. IE, the exact circumstances you mention. I don't know how much this stuff has benn tested on asphalt...

Racer X - yeah, with the configuration you have (4x2 battery split) there really is no need to move the cells in. :)

However, the rest of us are running the default setup where the 6-cell pack is on the left side of the chassis. Thus, the weight of the car (especially with GP3300s) is severely biased to the left side. Hence why we are moving/have moved the cells in toward the center of the chassis (without having to go to a 4x2 split).

-Rich

Just like Rich said, him and I race on some of the same tracks. And my car doesn't get to see Asphalt! I won't let it, Touring Cars were made for carpet right? LoL :)


Ray, I will mail you tommorow.
Jake

HI guys

I need a little help I recently tried to put the losi 1/2 degree hubs on reverse on my tc3 and it seems the standard camber links are too short.THe link is mounted up and long on the tower and in the outer whole on the hub.Is there other camber links to use or should the standard ones work?:confused:

Thanks!

Go to the LHS and get the super long Losi ball cups for the offroad cars and you'll be fine. I used stock turnbuckles with the Losi cup on one side and a longish RPM cup no the other end. To go back to stock hubs-you'll just need to take off the Losi ball cup and put an associated one back on.

Thanks Ray

OK i have some more questions,I'am running the f-block instead of the r block in the back of the car with the 3+0 block and that gives me 2 degree toe but wider.If i run run r-block in the rear with 2+0 block that also gives me 2 degree toe.And with the losi hubs when running them with f-block in the rear if i put them on reverse that takes toe out of the car and running them normal put's toe in the car??

I guess my question is how much toe is in the car when running the f-block in the rear of the car with the 2+0 block, if with the 3+0 block there is 2 degree's?:confused:

Anybody??:( or you just don't run it with the 2+0 block??lol