Edmar:

I'm not to sure about the Tamiya springs. I think they will fit. the Kyosho springs fit. so do the HPI springs.

Good Luck

Davepull:

Hi,

moving the shocks in at the top will soften up the suspension. moving out will firm up the suspension.

"how can I get more steering"

well, do you want more going into corner or coming out of the corner???
coming out of a corner you can gain steering by changing the "C" carriers to either 2 degrees or 4 degrees. with the "F-2 block you will end up with a total of 4 degrees with the 2 degree"C" carrier and a total of 6 degrees with the 4 degree "C" carrier. if you are running on carpet you can take the front "F" block and install it in place of the rear "R" block. this will remove some of the rear toe-in. (depending on what rear back block you are running). this seems to ba a easy way to do this. also you can switch to the Losi rear hub carriers. by switching the right for the left you can take toe-in out too.
push when entering a corner:

if you are running foams try a Purple/Orange compound on the front. also a LITTLE toe-out will help the car enter the turn quicker (at the cost of the car tracking straighter on the longer shutes and a more responsive car to small steering input.
also you can move the shocks in a hole on the front shock tower. this will give the car a feeling of a softer setting on the front.
as a last resort I will move the inner camber link mount on the shock tower. by moving it in and down you are allowing the front tires to use a slightly larger contact patch. this can also be done with adding more negative camber. (no more than -2 degrees).
also you can stiffen up the rear suspension some. in effect taking rear traction away from the rear. this wiil help the car to rotate better when entering a corner.

Please try ONE change at a time. keep going until we are happpy with the turn-in.

One other thing you can try is a different body. the ProtoForm 4door Honda will give you better turn in on most tracks same with the Alfa 164 body.

hope this helps.

I've heard there are different types of spur gear and pinion gear to be used depending on the type of tracks you will use. Can you give me the gears that would match the following tracks:
- more curves less straight line
- less curves and many long straight lines

Edmar:

Hi,

at this time we are running a 100 tooth 64 pitch spur gear on all of our TC3's. a rule of thumb is a bigger spur will give you more "pull" of a corner. and a smaller spur will give more straight-away speed. I will gear with the pinion for each track. if i go to a smaller spur gear it is most always a 96 tooth gear. as we are running foam tires I try to stay as close as I can to a given rollout. like this past weekend I ended up gearig my GM3's around a 1.04 rollout on a track the we were running low 11 second laps (gear was a 100/36) on larger tracks you would want to add gear to the motor but not so much that your car will feel doggy in the infield.
for rubber tires you would gear for a tire size and make minior adjustments from there. talk to the fast guys at your track. see what they are running for a gear ratio and figure out the rollout.

take the spur gear (100) devide by the pinion (36) times the overall ratio of your car (TC3=2.5) = 6.944. take the tire Dia (2.3") times Pi (3.14) = 7.22 then devide by the overall ratio from your car (6.944) = a 1.04 rollout. when using a metric system you will get a truer rollout in mm. (just replace all dia reading here with a mm reading)

hope this helps.

Originally posted by DaWrench
Edmar:

Hi,

at this time we are running a 100 tooth 64 pitch spur gear on all of our TC3's. a rule of thumb is a bigger spur will give you more "pull" of a corner. and a smaller spur will give more straight-away speed. I will gear with the pinion for each track. if i go to a smaller spur gear it is most always a 96 tooth gear. as we are running foam tires I try to stay as close as I can to a given rollout. like this past weekend I ended up gearig my GM3's around a 1.04 rollout on a track the we were running low 11 second laps (gear was a 100/36) on larger tracks you would want to add gear to the motor but not so much that your car will feel doggy in the infield.
for rubber tires you would gear for a tire size and make minior adjustments from there. talk to the fast guys at your track. see what they are running for a gear ratio and figure out the rollout.

take the spur gear (100) devide by the pinion (36) times the overall ratio of your car (TC3=2.5) = 6.944. take the tire Dia (2.3") times Pi (3.14) = 7.22 then devide by the overall ratio from your car (6.944) = a 1.04 rollout. when using a metric system you will get a truer rollout in mm. (just replace all dia reading here with a mm reading)

hope this helps.
I really appreciate your comments, many thanks for your help.
:wave:

Does anyone know where I can get the hollow plastic ends for the ball fittings on the sway bars? I've been drilling standard ball ends out but they dont hold up too well. Hate to buy a new swaybar set when all ineed is a lousy 5 cent part!


Thanx

Associated has a part number for the plastic parts, and a part number for the aluminum parts for the sway bar links. I would give them to you but they're in my pit box at the track! If no one gives them to you first, I'll post them here ASAP.

ghoulardi, Did you check with Bud? 440 284-0270.

chuck

Hi Chuck,

we are getting ready for Cleveland.... so far Jason's been doing great. he can't wait for it.

hope to see you there!!!!! and at QSL too!


Thanks

Ghoulardi:

Hi,

you'll need part #8828 for the plactic parts and the set screw.

hope this helps.

Thanks

Has anyone run into any issues with the brass bushings that are in the steering assembly on the TC3? Mine seem to wear out pretty quickly and then the brass rubs off onto the inside of the steering bracket that slides back and forth. This causes the steering to be very rough. Just wondered if you can replace those brass bushings with ball bearings or anything else? It seems if I lubricate the area, more dirt gets attracted. Let me know you thoughts.
Thanks,
CRJ

CRJ, I have not had that problem, but I do try and clean the steering rack with a Q-tip and solvent every race day. And actually remove the entire rack and give it a solid cleaning every month. It should be more often than that-but I am too lazy!!!

If I know it has time to dry before racing, I will lubricate the bushings with Zubak Lube because it drioes to a film and doesnt attract dust, but is very slippery.

Yes-you can get ballbearing steering, but its no better.

Ray

tc3 ballbearings for the steering rack-Associated #3971

Walter, you all ready for the champs? See you in a couple of weeks.

chuck

Hi Chuck, Hows it going? I feel more ready than ever! With any luck maybe some good results. See ya in a few, Walter

I want to upgrade my RTR TC3 motor. It has a stock motor 19 turn and ESC is LRP runner. I think the ESC can handle up to 12 turn. Need your expertise on what to buy. Thanks.:)

I'm not sure how low the LRP Runner will allow you to go, 12 turns sounds a little low, but your LRP manual should tell you. You could easily upgrade to a good "stock" motor, or a 19 turn, and see a noticable differance in performance.

I would go with a 19 turn. They are pretty cheap and will give you a whole LOT more speed, I think the 12 turn is WAY TOO MUCH for your ESC. :)
Jake

I have just returned from the TeamAssoicated page and looked up the motor rating for the Runner Plus speed control, and they give the Runner Plus a motor rating of 18-36 turns.

Hope this helps,

EK

Where do you find a 36-turn motor?

Dan, I have not idea where you find a 36 turn motor but that is what is on the LRP page.

EK

I was wondering someone could help me out....


I would like to know if anyone has any input on the new A-arms far as setup concerns. I looking for a carpet with foam tire setup with these new arms and even one with the rear shock tower on the front. One last question...has anyone used the IRS solid front axle on carpet with foam tires? I have seen setups for rubber tires but nothing yet with foams. Any help you be greatfull.

I've noticed many people at our local track do not take advantage of the new position, most of the better drivers say it can rub our tires on full r/l turn (w/ losi front knuckes, theres more throw).;)

If you don't adjust your radio settings the inner wheel will rub on the lower shock mount screw. My first time out on the track they actually backed out a little. All it takes is a minor endpoint adjustment and it's ok. You will not be able to get a full lock though, so you may have a little slop if your servos not tough enough.

does anyone have pictures of the blue anodized aluminum front and rear braces for the TC3 chassis? I can't seem to find a picture from the manufacturer's website or other suppliers. Does is resemble the stock braces on the team kit?

I am building an eye-candy TC3 showcar and I want to see them before buying. No LHS where I come from.

Thanks in advance.

:hat:

I use the new outer arm location on the front arms,but i do a few things to get turning radius. 1st put a short black ballstud in the outer hole,cut the t3 tierod ends(7230) to length(.625")install on the shock ends reinstall shocks.I also narrow up the front tires to 1.05" taking off about .06" then adjust radio throw accordingly.

I also run the rear shock tower in the front,in the middle hole.

Hope this helps,Walter Henderson

Walter- What about the rest of your set-up? That set up doesn't work for all spring/oil combinations.:thumbsup:

front
70wt oil
#2 pistons
white springs
outer hole on arm, middle hole on rear shock
standard sway bar
losi steering blocks/6*castor blocks
inner lower camber link
f-2 block
5.5 droop

rear
60wt oil
#2 pistons
purple springs
outer hole on arm middle hole on tower
standard sway bar
2* toe
inner lower camber link
4.5 droop


battery foward
protoform stratus 2.0
jaco purple rear 2.24"
jaco purple/orange front 2.24"
chassis cut to move batteries next to drive shaft

walter

I found these Aluminum braces by Megatech

SS

I'm wondering what are the Pro's and Con's to running a 1 way diff up front verses the standard diff. We run on a tight carpet track with rubber tires.
Thanks,
Team Green

A oneway makes your car act like a 2wd when you're off power or braking. So it gives a lot more steering when you get off the throttle, but reduces your overall braking power.

Hey guys,

I was quite unhappy with how my car handled the last race so I've decided to go through it completely. Could you guys recommend a
starting set up for Ozite and foam tires? I currently run white springs in front, purple in back, with double purple or purple/orange
front tires and purple rear tires. That should be good other than
that I would like some help with.

A couple questions, I read about putting the rear shock tower on the
front if I read it correctly. Should I do this...is it what the
fast guys are doing?

Secondly...droop, I'm pretty confused on this. I have an older TC3 I guess. I bought it about a year and a half ago. I have the team kit. Do I not have droop adjustment on my chassis? Is changing the
washers inside the shocks how I adjust droop without the newer chassis?

-Tom

has anyone tried out the new alfa body from losi and what do you think of it

Trinity sells the blue blocks and other blue trim pieces.

Tommygun43:

pleae read Walter Henderson's post above. this is a great place to start. about the only I have changed from Walt's setup is I will use either the Copper or Red springs on the rear. and I went to the outside holes on the rear shock tower.

Thanks

I was thinking that was a asphalt set up for some reason. Guess
that happens after reading 15 pages of posts! I don't understand
this..."losi steering blocks/6*castor blocks". 6 degree Losi
caster blocks?

Tom

4 Degree Caster blocks and 2 degree knuckles equals 6 degrees!

Losi makes 6 degree caster blocks. So, with the 2 degree kick-up block, Walt was running a total of 8 degrees caster.

Thanks guys.

I think I just realized when using the new A-arms with the droop holes, I'm supposed to remove the thin washers inside the shocks? Am I correct? Bummer got to take all the shocks apart again?

-Tom

Tommygun... Yes they serve the same function. Droop screws make life sooo much easier than internal limiters. Especially with foams!

I would like a more dirt-proof steering rack and a cool cover for the spur gear. :rolleyes:

hey guys at Associated, are you listening? :D

A lot of team drivers and other are milling out the area around the steering rack. Then drilling the appropriate holes to use the Nitro TC3 steering arms. I almost think that that will be a new item on there revised car, if they ever come out with one!;)

I'm getting ready to start a new season on carpet. It's a new track that's perfectly smooth, with brand new ozite. I've never actually raced on ozite carpet, just something simular with more bite I believe. Is the traction of new ozite considerably less, before the groove comes in? How should I change my setup to compensate, if at all?

Front:

rear tower shimmed up 3/16" (don't have new arms yet)
front spool
inner lower camber link
4 degree castor blocks
f-2 block
standard swaybar

Rear:

inner lower camber link
2 degrees toe in
standard swaybar

I need to build shocks still, they're still setup for pavement. I was thinking of 70wt and 60wt with 2's like Walt's setup above. Was planning to use whites and purples also. I'll play with positioning at the track.

What about tires? I ask mainly because it's new carpet. Should I run something on the softer side front and rear until the groove comes in? I'm thinking it'll take a few weeks, since there is only club racing with a relatively small turnout. I'll either run Jacos or Mugens. I won't be buying TRCs any more. They're just poor quality, imho.

Also.... This is for stock on a tight track. Paragon is allowed.

Is anyone willing to pay top dollar for a CNC milled TC3 Graphite chassis? It costs a lot of money to do them on a mill (Cheap with a dremel-but looks HACK!!!).

If anybody thinks so, I might be able to have four or five of them made in the next couple of weeks. I dont know a price, but it wouldnt be real cheap.

Chassis would have the battery moved inboard and CG of batteries lowered. Some more minor machining as well to lighten and balance the chassis so you can run GP3300's and make the ROAR 50oz. limit.


I am going to take a chassis to the machine shop tomorrow and see what it costs to do a small run of them.

Ray

Rayhuang:

I was going to have my brother do the same thing for me. What kind money are you talking.... Just curious. My brother wouldn't be allowed to do any for profit, but he can do a couple for me and friends. Thinking of dropping the servo down as well. It seems it would give a more linear response due to the servo arm angle relative to the rack. What do you think?

Bodido,

I'll have an exact $$$ number tomorrow!!! I really doubt it will be a price anybody would be willing to pay!!! You know-it would go like this:

"Hey-make me one!!!" :p

"Whats it cost??"

"WHHHAAATTTTT????" :eek:

"Forget-it-I'll make mine with a dremel!!!!".


I think you hit it on the head-If you have a buddy that'll make you one for free-great-if not-break out the dremel!!!
But-I thought I'd throw the idea out there!!! I mean-100's of people buy a Losi XXXS kit and turn right around and buy a new Graphite chassis right away!!! Why not a TC3!!!

Ray

Bodido -

check out the suggested starting Carpet set up in the TC3 tuning guide. Ive been driving with it for some weeks and it works very well. This set up allowed me to take pole and win a C main 2 weeks ago. Led from the pole and by the time the race ended I was one lap up on the 2nd place driver.

Very neutral handling with a slight touch of understeer.

At my track, relatively new ozite (about 2 months old) Im using 26-28mm wide double purples or plaids in front and purples in the rear.

My brother has done lots of cool work for me in the past. If I were to charge, it would be something like this:

me=free
slow friend= $40
fast friend= $60
aquaintence who has potential to beat me= $200

HAHA

rayhuang,
You can do a good job with a Dremel if you take the time (I know alot of guys don't). I have a machine shop where I work with a few lathes, and one of our better millwrights offered to do the work for me for free, I just wanted to do it myself. Not to mention the fact that I was a little afraid to give him my brand new graphite chassis and have it come back worse than what I could have done (He's a good millwright, but it's not everyday that he works on RC cars, know what I mean?). I like the thought of having a car that I practically hand built, makes me feel a little less like "every body & their brother".

I don't see a ride height in Walt's setup? What ride
height should I start with? (Ozite with foams).

-Tom

When I run carpet, if it is smooth I slam the car as low as I can legally go. I also use VERY small tires, but it has worked for me. What do you the rest of you guys run for ride height on carpet? If the carpet's bumpy, then you can see this won't always work.
Jake

I tried running mine at 2mm last time out, with 58mm tires, and believe it or not it handled great. I normally run 60mm tires with 4mm ride height. When I ran the 58mm tires at 4mm ride height it handled like crap. Learn something new each day.