Ah, nope I had that jig made for me. :)

It's like the Hudy one, but a lot cheaper (free versus about $50) and works a bit better (can't claim that against too many Hudy tools :) ).

:D hey noid; We"re running at the hobbytown on pearl rd. in strongsville on sundays. Moving indoors to the cuyahoga county fairgrounds on oct 17th. 1st class set up. New carpet and plenty of power and pit space.

Kicasso....thanks! Just needed to use a little elbow grease and twist it a bit and I got it right out..:D

I'll be at Bratenhal this Sunday. I have a topic that I started about getting my TC3 and have received a lot of info from Brat racers, so I'll be up there this weekend to get more info/tips and to get practice for the 1st race. I need practice so I can finish last place...in style....:dude:

hey does anybody make aluminum tranny cases for the nitro car

I just got a used TC3 over on the swap/sell forum. The drivetrain is... ratchety. Previous owner claims he had only a half-dozen runs on it. This I can believe; the car still has that new look. I took it apart; correct number of shims everywhere. There is no play in the drivetrain. None. Rear case is worse than the front but they're both bad.

Is this normal? How long until they really break in? I'll try shaving the outdrive bearing sockets. Running the thing for four hours on a power supply sounds like a nightmare. Adding toothpaste to the mix sounds destructive. rc-jockey's link from a few months back seems to be out of order, or blocked from work.

I've been reading back in the thread and have found some things to try. But really I'm disappointed. I'm used to the famous Stealth smoothness in my offroad cars.

Could be these things off the bat.


1. Thrust bearings improperly assembled.

2. Plastic flashing fell from screw hole in case and is inbetween the gleason gears.

3. Too long of a screw in the diff case and rubbing the tall gear.

4. Try taking out a shim from and reassembing.

5. Remove the CVD's from the diffs and spin drivetrain. Might have a crushed wheel bearing.


When the diffs in the TC3 are right, they are as smooth as butter and stay that way a long time!!!

It's definitely a gear mesh problem.

I eliminated #5 and #2 by holding onto the spur gear and turning each end. Diffs are tight but smooth. The wheel bearings are sticky but smooth - they still have the grease packing.

I'm also pretty sure it's not 3. With the pinions out, the main spools are smooth, though not quite free. I still need to unpack those bearings as well.

Will give it a "shower and shave" and see if it helps...

btw: with the plastic diff halves, you really should not need to use the shims for the outdrive bearings. That can affect your gear mesh in a big way.

-Rich

Gave it all a good inspection. Seems that the ratchety motion is about 1/2 fit and mesh, and 1/2 previous owner's assembly. The fit I will work out by shaving the bearing shoulders, and just letting the thing wear in.

The previous owner problem is no big deal but annoying. The front input shaft was scratched up. The bearing was forced onto it, apparently damaging the race. Both parts need replacement. Grrr....

Before everyone goes over to the swap forum to see what @#$%er I got the car from, I should say that other than that problem, the car is in great shape. No stripped threads that I've discovered - amazing considering the number of 1/2" 4-40 bolts into plastic on this car. I can't find any scratches on the body that would indicate it's been on its lid. (I could argue with the color... :D ) Not a bad deal at all for the price I paid.

I have a Racer kit that I'm using on carpet right now. I use the suggested setup in the manual for this type of racing surface and overall it works pretty well, however it does seem to lean too much. I have anti-roll bars front and rear. Also, sometimes the car will just hook in a corner. What should I try?

I use the suggested setup in the manual for this type of racing surface and overall it works pretty well, however it does seem to lean too much.

Let us know more info please!! Is it stock or mod, Foam tires or rubber tires. Size of track and general layout (open, fast, super tight and technical). We can help better with more info!!!

I'm using a stock motor and foam tires. The track out has two big sweepers and an easy infield. Overall, the track is fast and all of the corners are taken pretty fast.

I don't have the TC3 manual anymore. What is the settings on your car?

Anyways, the spinning out can be caused by your front end might be too soft. Or, your droop settings could use some adjustment.

But, most likely you are 3-wheeling through the turn.

I don't have my stuff right in front of me right now, but the car doesn't really spin out. It's more of a rapid jerk to the side during a turn than a slide and spin because the rear end lost traction.

A sudden jerk or slide in one direction could be a couple of things. Yes, it can be set-up, but it could also be tweak or broken/bent part and those are easy to check. If it only does that one-way (Only left turns) it is tweak or a bent hingepin, etc. If it does it both ways and car is not tweaked or broken, it is set-up and well help you there when we see your general set-up!!!

Are you using tire compound on your foams? I would assume that you are, but running dry tires can give you erratic handling.
Jake

I use traction compound on the whole rears and the inside edge of each plaid front. I use purples or double purples in the back.

My general setup for carpet:
white front springs and copper rears
All shocks are mounted in the middle holes
sway bars front and rear
inner-lower front camber link
outside hole on rear hub for camber link w/ inside-upper hole on tower

Quick question for you guys that have been running foams on carpet: I have my TC3 dialed for carpet, setup is spot-on and I couldn't be happier with the way it is driving, my question is this: I need to put my new foams on it pretty soon, I have a purple and a plaid, (Jaco) and don't remember which one goes on front and which one goes on rear... :D

I feel like such a dork, I should know this..... :)
Thanks
Jake

I want to say instead of copper that I am running either purple or red, I think they are purple. Also I don't use a roll bar, and I get very little body roll.

After reading your last post, I would agree with Rich, something is either bent or it is binding somewhere in the suspension. Your running good tires, and they aren't dry, if the setup is close than something must be binding/broken.
Jake

Jake:

Hi,

Plaids go on the front and Purples on the rear.

Thanks

Thanks, I appreciate it. Sometimes school gets the best of memory... :D
Jake

Another quick question, I have heard of people running their drivetrain w/ a drill to break it in. Mine is broken in by far, but how do people attache the drill to the car? Have any of you guys ever done this?
Thanks
Jake

Jake:

Hi,
I will use a drill to help run the diffs in. I have never used a drill on my TC3 to break in the drivetrain. one possible way is to mount a cut CVD or dog bone in the drill and go from there. I have done this on my trucks and buggies.

Watched "Event Horizon" tonight. The ship design made me think of the TC3. :D

Hey, I have had my TC3 for a little while but have yet to get into racing. Although, I am getting more interested I would like to improve my driving skills. Do you have any suggestions where I could go and how to set the area up? I buddy at work, and I picked up our TC3's about the same time and are wanting to find some way to practice. Your suggestions are welcomed. :)

try too use double purple front and purple back spring white front with 80wt shock oil and in the back spring purple 70wt shock oil

Thanks guys! :)

Evaderkiller: All I do is find a good parking lot that is sssmmmooootttthhhhh and fairly clean. I will use joints/seams/surface irregularities to set up a "track" in my head. I find for me that it works really well, especailly when I tap a wall, I keep right on going. :D I wondered how much it would help me, after my first carpet race of the year I found out. :) Even though it may sound like just playing, it really did help me.
Jake

Evaderkiller,
Set up a simple oval course, at first. Grab four, empty 2-liter soda bottles and take the labels off and fill them a little less than halfway with sand. Use these to set up an oval course for you and your friend to run on. Run races against each other both clockwise and counterclockwise. When you want a break from that, use the four bottles to set up a slalom course. Stand at one end and get used to driving a car going away from you and coming at you. All of this is fun and really good practice.

Thanks for the advice!:thumbsup:

Something I have tried that seems to work pretty well is using disc golf disc's, I go to a tennis court and setup a course using the two tennis net post, come in about five feet and down about the same from each end with two more disc's, and then finally a single disc about the first line away from the net but parallel. Using this course I have tried to work on getting a line through the corners, but I'm a little nervous around the net posts.

Plus, does anyone know where would be a good area to practice in doors during the bad whether :confused:

Hi All,

I have been having a problem with my threaded shocks not holding the pressure from the oil. I rebuilt them using the rebuild kit and the same problem happen. It might be possible that it is leaking through the red o-rings because I do see some dirt located there but I don't understand how could this be? Any advice would be great.

Thanks,
Tim

I need some help. I'm trying to find a set-up from last years 2001 Cleveland Indoor race for the TC3. I was told a local guy won Stock last year with a TC3 and a killer set-up, but I can't find anything on last years race, only the 2000 set-ups. Was his name Durling? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Tim maybe your shafts are worn out allowing the oil to flow through

What do they mean by locking the front diff? I assume it is to bottom the spring out totally. Is this correct?

Not exactly, even if you bottom the spring out you can still get diff action. Locking the diff keeps outdrives on both sides "locked" together.

So, how do you lock the front diff?

Remove the diff balls, add some plastic shims to keep it the right width, and superglue it together. If this seems too drastic to you, Dragon R/C sells a "spool" that replaces the whole front diff with a single part. Associated makes one for the Nitro TC3 but I don't think it'll fit the electric car - anyone know better?

There was a huge thread on locked front diffs on Trinity Tech Talk. They delete stuff, but it's still up for now. See if this link works...
http://techtalk.teamtrinity.com/tt/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2268

TC3Nut:

Hi,

you might try to get Rich Chang to help you out. I know that they roomed together.if you want I'll post the setup we ran.

Thanks

DaWrench,
I would really appreciate it if you'd post your set-up. This is my first real season indoors, and any help would be great.
Thanks!

TC3Nut:

Hi,

Here is my Cleveland setup from 2001 (stock)

Front:

Springs: White
Oil: 80 wt Assoc
Pistons: #2's
Shock mounts: middle hole on the shock tower
Camber Links: Lower inner on the shock tower
Castor Blocks: 4 degrees/2degrees front kick up
Diffs: RRP Alumium diffs.
CVD's: shinys/Shuemaker blades
Camber: -2 degrees
Sway bar: stock Assoc
Tires: Jaco Purple/Orange

Rear:

Springs: Red
Oil: 40 wt Assoc
Pistons: #2's
Shock mounts: middle hole on the shock tower
Camber Links: upper inner on shock tower/ outer hole on the hub carrier
Front "rear" block: stock kit
Rear "rear" block: R+2+0
Wheelbase: Middle
Tire: Jaco Purple
Diff; RRP alumium
CVD's: plastic/Blades
Camber: -1.5 degrees.

Chassis: graphite
Arms: same

Motor: handout

Tire additive: Paragom (Black/Purple can)
Tire size: started out at 2.200 and went up or down as needed for rollout.

Body: ProtoForm Stratus/standard wing
Droop: this was adjusted according to the track
Ride Hieght: 3mm to 4.5 mm
oneway: no oneways after the first controlled practice.


any other questions please feel free to e-mail me.

Thanks

DaWrench

Thanks for the info! I'm sure this will come in handy. I'll drop you guys a note if I can make it to Cleveland.:)

Pat,

I looked over the shocks today and did not see anything wrong with the shafts. Maybe the problem I am having is not really a problem. What happens is when I build my shocks I get complete rebound to the full extent of the shaft. I then mount the shocks and after a day of racing I check them out to find out that they only partially rebound. The rebound level seems to be close to the length of the shock when the correct ride height is set. Is this the normal behavior? I am expecting that the shocks will continue to fully rebound all the time or least for a few weeks if not more. BTW I am using unobtanium shafts, are these smaller then the standard shafts and therefore the o-ring is not that tight.

-Tim

Originally posted by patcollins
Tim maybe your shafts are worn out allowing the oil to flow through

Hi Guys,
Just bought a elect RTR TC3 2 weeks ago. I like the car. It was fast. A few days later something went wrong the car won't accelerate and top speed was gone. I used a 2400mah and the funny thing is I only use a wall type charger (for Nikko toy RC) to charge the battery. Here's what happened, after charging yesterday I even checked with a tester to find out if its fully charge, with a tester reading says 7.2v so I assumed its fully charged, But when I ran the car it won't accelerate in less than 5 mins, it looks like its running out of charge already and it goes very slow. When I turn the steering left and right the car could hardly move too. When in staight line it go forward but motion is slow. I'm a newbie and not as expert as you guys. I hope you can help me. Is it the battery? ESC? radio? Every thing looks OK to me except for the charger which I'm not very confident at. I'm just wondering why it worked the first few days where I ran the car in top speed. I used the same charger. I hope you can help me. Looking forward to your comments.

:confused:

Almost certainly a battery issue.

Was the wall charger the right voltage? If you have one for a 9.6V pack you might do some damage if you let it overcharge. Are you sure it got a full charge? Wall warts usually say on them what the rate is; if it says 500 mA, it needs about 5 hours to charge.

Yeah it is the battery. If it said 7.2 volts it wasn't charged all the way. My Turbo30 shows over 9.0 volts when a battery peaks, the charger your using either has a problem, isn't the correct charger (ie 9.6..) or you need to let is charge longer. With a 2400 you should get 6-8 minutes of run time IF it is fully charged.

Congrats on purchasing the best Touring Car money can buy.... :)
Jake

is the size of springs in TC3 universal? i plan to change
to softer ones since i run it on a bumpy track.
my problem is i live in the philippines and there are no
associated parts here. however, there are other brands like
tamiya and kyosho for substitute. please advise

what does moving the shocks in the upper holes do?

how can I get more on power steering?

I noticed that after running, tiny rocks gets inside the teeth of the pinion gears. At times, it will create a different sound when the car accelerates. This may damage the gears and may result to early replacement. Is there a way to prevent this? Is it possible to cover it for protection?

just clean off the chassis and put a piece of tape over the spur gear hole