Originally posted by patcollins
Tom actually the so called rear toe problem in many cars isnt caused by the rear bearing carriers but the suspension mounts. Most people put one side on and then bend the other so that it fits. This causes excessive toe on one side. You basically have to bend both sides an equal amount.

Sorry, but that's not my situation. The early molds for the rear TC3 hubs had a built in error of 1 degree -- since both hubs came from the same mold, the left side "gained" one degree and the right side "lost" on degree. After months of haggling, AE admitted the problem, but not very openly -- for a brief time, they would replace defective hubs. That time is past, however from what I can tell.

I finally found "good" hubs, and WITHOUT changing suspension mounts (ONLY changing the hubs), the problem was cured. I originally (back when we were trying to prove to AE that THEY had a problem), I went to great lengths working with protractors, etc. to PROVE that the A-arms were at the proper angle and that the ERROR was in the molding of the hubs... Once you find "good" hubs, the problem is instantly cured.

My problem is/was in the HUBS -- period. This is not to say that there may not be a way to screw up the assembly and alter the geometry of the TC3 suspension, but that was NOT my problem...

Hello i'm new to the touring scene and have a couple of questions regarding adjusting castor on a TC3. What are the numbers on the hinge pin mounts? Ex: F= 3+2 Etc. Mean? I'm assuming castor or anti-squat or something???
Also, the "C" blocks (for lack of a better name),that the dogbone passes through,I noticed that those come in different shapes with different protrusions to the rear. Also castor? Thanks in advance.
I'm hooked on sedans, after 15 years of oval racing, its fun again and I have a lot to learn, its like starting overagain! Thanks again. HB

Mayhem,

The front hingepin blocks are fixed on the back position, but you can change the front block to run zero or 2 degrees of kick-up (F+0 and F+2). This amount of Kick-up also affects your total caster number. The "C" blocks also come in various amounts of caster. You can buy 0, 2, 4 degree caster blocks ("C" blocks). So lets us this as an example. You set up car with the hingepin block labeled F+2. You have installed the 2 degree caster block, you are now running 4 degrees of caster.

Ray

What sucks is that for the longest time I thought there was something wrong with my setup tools b/c they kept showing a degree off for the rear toe between the left and right side.

Originally posted by tfrahm
My problem is/was in the HUBS -- period.

I think it was your poor eyesight...:p...and those losi hubs.

Originally posted by rchang
What sucks is that for the longest time I thought there was something wrong with my setup tools b/c they kept showing a degree off for the rear toe between the left and right side.

Aren't you a funny boy. We'll 'see' who has the last laugh this Saturday at the track when I t-bone your car -- "Oh, shoot, I didn't _see_ your car there." haha!

OH yea you can use losi XXX-S hubs, actually Im switching to them because they mount the ball stud vertically and that allows much more adjustability of roll center.

Yeah, I ran those the latter half of last year. Smoothed the car's response out and made it a lot easier to drive the car hard.

I'm going to run their C-hubs and knuckles up front this season, too. They are a lot more durable and also allow more steering throw.

On the LOSI hubs (I have some now), the hole furthest from the wheel is about where the normal "outer" hole is on the TC3 hubs... Using that hole would thus be no change (other than the ball stud being vertical)... Right?

Using the LOSI "outer" hole (closest to the wheel) would lengthen the upper camber link...

Which way are YOU using these hubs, and why? (What kind of track, traction conditions, etc..)

Thanks in advance!

I am running the camber link in the outside hole of the hub (long link setting). This seems to make the car feel a little more stable. It's a very small change in my book.

I run the car in stock on about a 90 x 40 (do you agree Rich?) carpet track. I would think if you have alot of switch backs, you might want to change to the shorter link or adjust droop.

I just got a used TC3 team car. I am on a budget, so I didnt put expensive items in it, but I still am using a Futaba 2ph, a Novak Explorer2, and a blue endbell paradox stock motor. Since it had no body, I went and got a RSX body. I have to say, I like the TC3 a lot!!! It handles so great, it has awesome acceleration, and top speed. But, I have a couple questions. First, what is the normal range of pinions for a stock motor? Also, what is a good shock oil weight for general running around, perhaps some casual racing? I have gold springs in front, and silvers in back. Lastly, I have to give it to you guys, touring car bodies are a hell of a lot harder to paint and cut out then stadium truck bodies. Any tips for wheel wells? Lastly, what are some good 190mm bodies besides the Stratus. I dont want to get a stratus just because they are so popular. Any suggestions?

Ripped apart 2 spurs and pinions yesterday while parking lot racing my TC3. How do I solve this problems?

Originally posted by rc-jockey
Ripped apart 2 spurs and pinions yesterday while parking lot racing my TC3. How do I solve this problems?

If you find a solution, let ME know, because Sunday I ruined a spur gear doing the same thing (local HobbyTown parking lot race)... Picked up a tiny rock, which got stuck and by the end of that heat race, the spur gear teeth all had "nicks" out of them -- and TC3 spurs are a "pain" to replace!

Get some stiff screen door mesh - put some over the bottom hole under the spur gear opening, and build a 'cage' over the spur gear.

If you look at the pics of the TC3-O that Dan Burnham built (pics are off of the RC Car Action website), that is an example.

-Rich

The other item in the "believe it or not" category, switch to 64 pitch. Yep...thought the same thing, but the small particles do not seem to affect them as muc as the 48 pitch spur gears.

I just got a factory team tc3. I have seen other guys car drive trains spin very free how do I get mine like this?

Dave,
I have had a lot of success (or so I thought...read on)....until I man handled Barry Baker's TC3 at the ROAR Carpet Nats. Barry spun a wheel, walked away, came back, an HONEST 5 minutes later....and yes.....they were still spinning!!

I am completely impressed with the www.teambluestar.com/ bearings. VERY free and high quality bearings. They sell some on Ebay.

Shimming is critical of the input shafts and the diffs. It takes a while for the gear mesh to come in, some have used tooth paste to break them in....of course use old bearings. Use a 540 motor on about 4 volts.......um....for several hours. Use a toothpaste/oil mix....works good. Don't mix up the gear & pinions...they are broken in together now. Clean thoroughly and go. This helps quite a bit.

The bearings in the tranny case should fall out when turned upside down and not hang up. Using an exto knife to shave the top inner edge till they loosen up.
Freeing up the drivetrain is discribed here.
http://www.chicagotc.freeservers.com/tc3help.htm

Checkout these 2 topic's on new TC3 Products:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25192

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25294

Excellent info on the website as well!

Has anyone here tryed the new a-arms?A couple of my friends that are using tc3's said the the new a-arms and the rear shock tower in place of the front is working really well.

LMK If you have tryed it... Does it work? What did it do? How much of a effect does it have?

LMK

kyle

Hi all, I just ordered my first RC Car. Ordered the RC10 TC3 RTR kit. Thought I would start off with this and build from there as interest and experience grows. I was curious though on what types of aftermarket bodies work on the TC3. I don't want to have the same looking blue or red body car on the track :) I see HPI has some beautiful stuff and it says that some are 190mm and some are 200mm. I also found some info that said the HPI bodies will work if your car has a 10" wheelbase. TA says the TC3 has a 10.25" wheelbase. Will any HPI work? And if so do I go 190 or 200mm? If HPI is not an option please point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance for any info you may provide.

Thanks,

Walz:p

Hi,

All 1/10th scale electric touring cars (TC for short) are 190mm. The 200mm bodies are for 1/10th scale nitro touring cars.

So, for your electric TC3 you will need to use the 190mm bodies.

In regards to whether the body will fit based on wheelbase, you can pretty much ignore that piece of information. They mainly say that in regards to the wheel openings if you use the molded lines to cut out the wheel openings.

What you will want to do is put some tires/rims on your TC3. Place the clear body shell on top of the car and let them rest on the body posts. Center the body (the easiest thing is to center the front axles in line with the front wheel wells) front to back and left to right. Then, mark the body post positions on the body.

Once that is done, you can use a body reamer to create openings for the body posts.

Cut out the bottom edge of the body so that when the body shell rests on the body post pads and the car is on the ground, the body doesn't hit the ground.

Then, put the body go over the body posts. You can then cut out the wheel wells front and rear. I usually use another tire/rim, center it on the axle (but on the outside of the body) and use that as a template to draw the circle for the wheel well opening.

There are various other ways to do it and various tricks you will learn as you mount more bodies. The above (to me) is one of the easiest ways to do it.

I usually paint the body before I start cutting out the wheel wells.

-Rich

Rich, Thanks for the quick response! This helps greatly. I'm sure you'll be seeing alot more of me once my car gets here and I get started in the hobby.

Thanks again,


Walz

Originally posted by TheBoss
.....
I am completely impressed with the www.teambluestar.com/ bearings. VERY free and high quality bearings. They sell some on Ebay.


"The Boss" -- I agree! I found some "Team Blue Star" bearings for my TC3 on e-bay, and after missing the first set (got "sniped" with 5 seconds to go!), I bought another set with the "Buy it Now" option... They promply responded, I paid via PayPal, they shipped the same day (August 8), arrived yesterday, I installed them last night, and I am HAPPY today! The bearings seem to be very high quality and VERY smoooooth! My TC3's drive train feels much smoother, and is much QUIETER... Sunday will be the on-track test, but I'm impressed so far!I believe they will free up even more after the first run or so due to the initial load of internal lube -- once that gets "run-in" and/or worked out, these things should really be magic!

Thanks for the tip!

Yep...they do free up some more. Good bearings. Did I snipe you? LOL! hehe

Hey just a set of blue star bearings. they seem to be smoother than the ones with the factory team kit but when I put them in the car they don't spin as free. I have gone through the hole car making sure that the bearings aren't tight in there locations. my question is what have you been doing to clean them?


Dave

Dave -- I've only installed one set of Team Blue Star bearings so far (got the second set on the way, though)...

Mine were pretty much as you describe -- VERY smooooooth, but on the workbench, they didn't feel as 'FREE' as some bearings. However, I just took them on faith and put the car on the track with no "fiddling" with the bearings. The car was visibly quicker than with the old bearings -- I can only assume that the "SMOOTH" more than makes up for the 'free'...?

They did free up very slightly with use. I think the thing is that they are pre-lubed with some space age lube that "feels" less free, but under load on the track, that lube more than makes up for that by letting the bearings run really, really well.

I suppose you could soak them in a small jar of motor cleaner to thin out or wash out part of that lube, but so far, I feel like they run fine right out of the package...

Maybe TheBoss has more experience with them...?

(By the way, the folks at Team Blue Star are GREAT to work with...)

Give them 5 or so packs. They will be smooth.

hey what servo would be the best fro my tc3? I am a serious racer and this is my first sedan. the guys down here all use mid line servos but I want the best.

Look in the General R/C Discussions area......under "Hopups that WORK V1.0". Your answer is there.

I am trying the rear shock tower on the front and want to know what is the advantage of running it, and also what hole everybody is running their shocks in. I don't have the new arms. I am running mine in the second hole and I can't get my ride height as low as I want it to go, I am trying to get 4.5mm and can't get but about 6mm, I have checked all shocks to make sure they are all the same lenght and I am running my droop at 6 in front and 4 in rear. Does anybody know what might be wrong.

Jon,
Did you space up the shock tower at the three mounting positions on top of the transmission case?

Yes I put a very thin washer under each screw.

Ah...use a 1/8" spacer to space up the shock tower.

Try this.....pics of my TC3...up close and personal! hehe

http://acloco.com/tc3tower.html

Howdy Tom!

Long time. :) Those look like Schumacher ball cups for the camber links? Good choice, if they are. You ever try using the schumacher blades on your axles? Those work really well and cut down on wear and tear on the diff out-drives.

I had a bunch of old Schumacher axles, popped the pin out of those, popped the pin out of the AE axles, popped the Schumacher pin in the AE axle, and attached the C-blade.

-Rich

why would you want to put the rear tower on the front? waht does it do?

I have switched EVERYTHING over to the Schuie ball cups. They are the best, longest wearing, tightest in the pocket, and really take abuse. I was absolutely tired of having a VERY sloppy suspension on every TC that I owned, so, took the plunged ($3.99) and bought the ball cups. This is one of the tips in the R/C Hopups that WORK v1.0 thread.

On one TC3, I used titanium ball studs everywhere, on the other, standard issue TC3 items. So far, so good...on BOTH cars.

Originally posted by davepull
why would you want to put the rear tower on the front? waht does it do?

Lowers the roll center in the front, gives a little more steering throughout the range. I am using one for my TC3...with front and center one ways...VERY amazing corner speeds!!

Will that give me the adjustment of the shocks that I ame looking for, also what hole are you running in.

Tom,
Schumacher shows these types of ball cups,
which ones will fit the steering (tc3) and which ones
do I buy? I hate ordering somethin and gettin it wrong?

U1704K "Ball Grippa" Sockets (pk 8) $3.95
U750X "Ball Grippa" Short Stud Ball Joint(8pr) $9.95

Yep, same here. I had a big stash of them from when I ran the Axis and Axis II. I'm running out. :)

I use them on my nitro TC and they definitely hold up well.

Give the schuie blades a try when you can, if you haven't already. I think it is well worth converting to.

-Rich


Originally posted by TheBoss
I have switched EVERYTHING over to the Schuie ball cups. They are the best, longest wearing, tightest in the pocket, and really take abuse. I was absolutely tired of having a VERY sloppy suspension on every TC that I owned, so, took the plunged ($3.99) and bought the ball cups. This is one of the tips in the R/C Hopups that WORK v1.0 thread.

On one TC3, I used titanium ball studs everywhere, on the other, standard issue TC3 items. So far, so good...on BOTH cars.

John....I vary the upper shock position according to the track that I am running. Right now, upper shock hole is in the middle.

I can get to 4mm ride height in the front.

Rich....I believe I may just do that. I am now running metal diffs in the mod-motor TC3...and want them to last....I shall give it a try. Thanks!

First, I am very much a beginner so that's why I am asking this question...how do you replace the motor in the RTR TC3. I have removed the motor clamp, however, the motor is still in there pretty snug. I don't want to break anything and the instructions make it look like the motor/motor cam/pinion all come out as one unit. Any help would be appreciated!

Just push it out fron the bottom. It should be fine. You will get the motor cam and pinion all at the same time

Originally posted by rchang
Yep, same here. I had a big stash of them from when I ran the Axis and Axis II. I'm running out. :)

I use them on my nitro TC and they definitely hold up well.

Give the schuie blades a try when you can, if you haven't already. I think it is well worth converting to.

-Rich




Rich,
Don't you have that Niftech tool for that?

Noid, I see you live in Richmond Hts, Ohio. There is an active racing club, NORCAR that races at the community center in Bratenahl. There are lots of guys running TC3s at all levels of skill. Sunday is their first event of the season. If you have any car questions, bring your car down and you will find all the help you need, better yet bring you stuff down and race. The web site for the club is www.the-big-al.com

Niftech tool for which task? :)

Originally posted by DerekManchester


Rich,
Don't you have that Niftech tool for that?

Originally posted by rchang
Niftech tool for which task? :)



Oops! Might help if I tell ya. For changing the pin out of the cvd.