[QUOTE]Originally posted by DaWrench:
[B]Hi everyone:

I FINALLY made it over here.
brian11: you should either switch to the IRS pin coushins or the Shuie blades. (sorry about the spelling) I have run both and I went with the blades. (personal prefferance).


Tim, I would like the part numbers of the shuie (sp) blades so I can get me some.

Thanks

Rick

I need more off power steering on my TC3. What are the Caster and rear toe changes to make this happen???

Thanks,
Ray

Pat Collins:
I just installed the molded outdrive assemblies into my TC3 and they do not seem as smooth as the metal ones. Have you had this experience? It seems harder to find the fully compressed spring spot too. I left out the shims and I did use the businigs inside the diffs. I guess I will just drive it a little and see if it gets better. Please reply http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/confused.gif

Rick

Yes you are correct, the diff doesnt seem to work quite as well and the assembly doesnt spin quite as freely in the gearbox.

About the diff part, inside the plastic will compress more than metal when tightening down the diff and this makes the diff not quite as smooth. To prove this take the diff assembly in your hands and press inward and spin the sides in opposite directions. This removes the load from the thrust bearing and the diff is alot smoother feeling. Just about all diffs do this but the plastic ones are much worse than metal ones. It doesn't seem to affect it on the track and I havent had a problem with it other than in my head when I first built the plastic diffs.

About getting a free-er (is this actually a word?) drive train you can either run it for a while ~15 battery packs worth and it will free up some or you can take some very fine (1000+) sand paper to the inside of the diff cases arround where the large bearings ride.

You can also bolt a motor in and hook up 2 cells to it and run it for a while, a mabuchi 540 is great for this.

No doubt the more you run it the better it will get. Even as tight as it felt when it was brand new I didnt seem to loose anything to anyone else as far as speed and power goes.

Thnaks Pat. It is always a little scarey to me when I change something and it doesn't feel better. I have several boxes, actually quite a few boxes of stuff that was the "HOT TICKET" to the winner's circle but was just a quick drain on my wallet.
Thanks again. I will run some batteries through it as soon as it quits raining and the pavement dries up a little. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/biggrin.gif

Rick

One other thing to look out for with the plastic diffs is that it seems after a rebuild - especially when new - they quickly start loosening back up. After about 4 packs and being readjusted almost every time, they pretty much stay where they are.

I am going to keep my eye, or my allen wrench, on them.

Thanks

Rick

rayhuang - running more caster will increase steering into a corner but reduce steering out. Toe in generally locks in the rear end under power. Maybe adding some caster and reducing rear toe in would give you what you are looking for. You might also want to try moving the front shocks in one hole or the rear ones out one hole.

Jack Smash-Thanks for the tips. I'll try them!!!

Smash........ Sounds like you are running TC's now. Which one?

Rick

Rick

You must not have got the E-mail I sent you a while back http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/smile.gif Rob and I are about the only ones left from the old gang still running. We are both running TC3's in Carson City (about 30 miles from Reno). Im planning on getting back into the sport seriously this year. Ill probably be running Tc and 2wheel Mod at some big races this year. Well see how my wallet holds up. Do you still do any battery work? Talk at you later.

Hey, good to hear from you. As far as battery stuff the only thing I have left is my trusty Turbo 30. All of my other stuff was sold. I had kept one matcher, just in case, but just in case.... never happened. I run a lot of gas off-road tuuck and of course my TC3. We don't have a place to race indoors yet, but working on it. There is a club in Klamath Falls that races indoors e/o Saturday night, but the weather has been a little too exciting so far.
Tell Rob Hi and Merry Christmas to all of you.
Rick

Trixter:

Hi,
Sorry for not getting back here sooner. you asked for the part numbers for the Shuie blades here they are

U2033M: you'll need two of these.
U1918G: extra blades in case you lose/break one.

this is a easy swap. just pull off the blades and pullout the pins. then take out the pins from your CVD's ( we run the plastic ones)and carefully tap the Shuie pins in and install the blades. we have been running them for over a year on carpet/asphalt with the plastic diffs and no signs of any wear.
I have installed them on all my cars and even the T3's we run and no failure as of yet.

Thanks

DaWrench

Tim: Thanks for the part #'s. Things must be really slow for On-Road racing. I know hwere the weather has us at a standstill, but we did manage to get one Off-Road race in Thursday evening. I think my trigger finger is healing slowly.

Rick

Trixter:

Hi,

we just move indoors for the winter. the reason I haven't been here much is.......work. I work lots of hours so time on puter is linited.

Thanks

DaWrench

Welcome to our new "Discussion by Vehicle" topic. Hopefully this will help everyone by keeping related car and truck discussion all in one place.

I'm new to this thread, so I started reading from the beginning.
I just recently got a TC3 again used and it came with Delrin diffs front and rear.
The felt horrible, kind of sticky and were slipping even when tightened down all the way.
I took them out and got me the AE plastic diffs which worked great, for 3 heats.
When I put an 8x2 in the car for the main (foams on carpet), both diffs melted away after 2 minutes :-))

I was looking at the Delrin diffs and thought that pinning the diff rings (pan car style) or using d-rings and modifiying the hubs to fit would probably take care of the problem.
Has anyone tried this yet?

For some reason the lightweight associated diffs need some readjustment after the first battery or two. They probably came loose and then slipped and melted down.

The derlin diffs shouldn't feel any different, unless they are not true or have a crack or something.

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by patcollins:
For some reason the lightweight associated diffs need some readjustment after the first battery or two. They probably came loose and then slipped and melted down.</font>

Anyone had problems with the outdrives rubbing against the transmission cases ?

i ask because I've just recently got into R/C and I bought a TC3 kit (I had previously built a couple of other kits, but just for fun this one's for racing). After running a couple of packs through it, it seems as if the transmission cases have worn against the outdrives and now the Rear right and the front left outdrives have created slightly bigger holes on the transmission cases. this is causing some vibration when the wheels rotate. Is this normal ? If not, what should I do ?
contact AE ?
return the kit ?
buy new transmission cases ?

Help please !!!!!

Chris

Stefan G. I really think the way to go is with the stock metal outdrives from Assoc. in Modified. The reason for running the plastic diffs is in my opinion to give more snap to Stock racing. I dont doubt you can make the plastic outdrives work as long as you check them after every few runs (hold spur and one tire, and try spinning the other tire). The extra weight of the steel diffs means nothing/zilcho/nada when mated to an 8/2 motor!!!!!

I am in talks with the local school to let us race in the gym. The floor is wood, well you know, basketball court. I know there are some folks that race on these type of floors, and I need to know what to use for tires on 4x4 touring cars.

Thanks,

Rick

Hi,
what size are the bearings in the TC3,
I need the exact size so I can try and order some Ceramic bearings,ie diff 3/8 x 5/8 and wheel 3/16 x 3/8 when I look at the list of bearings I never see the right size?

Why ceramic bearings. Very costly. You loose more power in gearing and tires than in bearings. Bearing loss ammounts for very little of the power loss in a rc vehicle. They say they outlive metal 5 to one but their not saying weather they can last that long under the abuse your metal ones get in the tc3. If you got the big bucks do it but I would not suggest it

Hello

Any advantages or inconvenients in using HPI wheels on a TC3 ??

Thanks

Hey, There arent really any benefits to an HPI tire on an AE. It's really just the compound you have to look at. If it is the compound you want to run, the company doesnt matter. The only downfall would be if the hardcore AE guys saw it they may have a few words for ya. I have HPI Yokohama tires/wheels myself that i use as my "show" tires (they dont work well on carpet,lol). Its your choice, i run an HPI body as well, they make really good rims and bodies. Run whatever fits and you like.

Thanks for the answer but I am talking about the wheels only, With HPI wheels, it looks like the car is not as wide as with the standard AE wheels.

Does reducing the widht of the TC3 by using the HPI wheels has any advantages or inconvenients ?

I have a bunch of HPI wheels and was wondering if there is any use for them with TC3.

I know for a fact many team drivers use the metal outdrives in modified. When set up right the plastic ones are good but they need to be looked after more, and can go bad or be damaged easier.

ANyone know of any discussions about converting the TC3 for off road use.

I know Dan has done it but there seems very little being talked about it just lately??

I am sure someone must have got supplies for running it off road by now??

Thanks for any replies

I just got my TC3 going, I haven't had a chance to race it yet, but this weekend I should get my chance...

I'm wondering about the weight of this car and how much extra weight people normaly have to put on the car, also where you people typicly put the extra weight. My understanding is that 53 oz. is the legal minimum for 4wd electric touring car., I have
to put about 2 oz of weight on this car to get it legal. It seemed like ALOT of extra weight to me and my choices of how and where to put it on the car are proving to be challanging to me. I need advice/help.


I purchased my car used, it has all the graphite parts, as well as Titanium parts. I also purchased a new Quantum Pro Reverse speed control for it, because my older Tekin speedos would not fit. I have a Hitec servo that is full sized and a Futaba PCM receiver that is full sized... There is a small amount of room next to the speedo, wich is located right in front of the Motor... then there is the space just to the outside of the motor that one could put weight...

How much weight are you guys adding to your TC3s? Where are you placing? Why are you placing it where you do? How are you securing it to the car?

I should have also asked...

How are you guys determining if the weight ballance of the car is well distributed?

Well the easiest way to determine right to left balance is to pick the car up using its shaft and it will tilt toward the heavier side. Usually the right side is a bit light. Just guessing I said the car needs the weight just aft of the servo, so I took 1/2 oz of lead and shoo-gooed it to the inside of the tub right behind the servo.

To get a final balance use a tweak system like the MIP. I have never felt the torque steer that some people talk about, it cant be that bad the TC3 wins some very big races so it must not be that bad.

TMFU,

You can add the weight in a couple of different ways. Have an awesome paint job on the body. That adds a 1/2 oz. also, add a motor heat sink. As far as lead weight goes, get what they call Mag wheel weights that have double stick tape on them already. Before determining where to put the weight, tweak the car on a tweak board. If one side falls way short in weight and it is affecting your ability to set a consistent ride height at all 4-corners, add the weight in the lightest corner of the car.

Another generic place to put the weights is in the small areas of the chassis to the right of the motor and to the left of the batteries. Just glue to the side of the chassis. The last great way to add "useful" weight is to get a full set of Buds Bumpers. Especially the side nerfs and front bumper. At the Champs last year, my Factory team spec. car was always bordering on 53 Oz. with no added weight.

Hello all,
I was racing at the track today, and the guy sitting beside me told me that he had a TC3 RTR for sale, since I mentioned I wanted an on-road car. So, i asked him how much, and he said for $200 dollars, he would give me all the electronics, the car, a motor, a body(the pre-painted stratus), and foam tires...He also said he would throw in all of his spare parts, and maybe some other stuff...So, my question is, would this be a good car for me, seeing as I am only 15, and also, do you think that as the rtr, it will be fast enough for a novice class...which runs stock motors...what do you all think?

Yes, the most important part of the novice class is keep from hitting things. Usually the guy with the slowest car wins the novice class because they are all so concerned with going fast they constantly run into stuff.

$200 is a good deal, if it is in good shape.

Hey guys and gals,
I was wondering if anyone was having trouble with the axle bearings getting messed up on their TC3's? I have ruined 2 bearings so far. They both have been on the outside of the carrier, the inside ones seem to be okay. I use crush sleeves between the bearings, but I only have the stock wheel adaptors. I was wondering if this might be the problem and I need to switch to aluminum.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Chuck

Yes actually, but the problem doesnt lie within the hubs but the bearings. Replaced mine with some duratrax bearings and have been fine. You can buy a tube of 10 bearings for a very reasonable price.

Okay, thanks. I'll try that. I'd hate to have to keep buying bearings. Could get expensive after a while.

Thanks,
Chuck

Hey Whoop Fast... I just got a chance to run my TC3 on carpet for the first time this weekend. I will say this... The TC3 with a stock motor is WAY fast. I'm not really a novice per say, but then again I have extreem ly little experiance in running a road course, and even less experiance running a 4wd TC on a road course. I am hear to say to you, that the TC3 is a rocket ship on carpet with foam tires, and a stock motor. Only your driving will hold you back with a TC3.

thanks a lot man, i think I am going to get it...i want a fast car...

WhoopFast,
You'll be totally happy with the TC3, if I may be so bold as to add my 2 cents. It is a very adjustable car that, when the drive train gets run in, is extremely fast.

Good Luck,
Chuck

I'm an off-roader, new to TC's and just purchased/assembled a FTC3. Went out to the in door carpet track, and my first practice session, I just about hit everything in site.
After a few packs, I broke the left, rear ball cup and replaced the Associated ball cups with RPM ball cups because the guys told me the RPM's were more sturdy. After I changed the to the RPM's, the TC3 pulls to the left down the straight under acceleration, handles erratically and was uncontrollable. I found out that the RPM cups rub the inside of the foam tire rims (Jaco 28mm foams). I tried filing down the cup, but it looks like if I file the down any more, they will not hold onto the ball stud correctly.

Is there some type of adapter that I can use on the axle to push out the rim/tire so it clears the ball cup, or should I not be using 28mm tires and use 24mm tires?

I use the RPM ball cups and they contact the 24mm tires on occasion but not enough to worry about. You can tell from the slight groove in the ball cups. Most people are running 24mm.

eventually you're going to break parts. this is a fact. enough slams into the boards, walls, other cars will take it's toll no matter what kind/brand of part it is.....especially the ball cups. you're better off just replacing the ball cups with the standard Associted ball cups. much less hassle than worrying about changing rims/wheels/foams. just try slowing down a little bit, get that carpet rocket under control and your laps times will show it!

i don't think i've ever broken a ball cup before on my TC3, but that doesn't mean i haven't SMOKED some boards or walls either. the car overall is one sturdy machine. all i added to my FT TC3 was a Buds front bumper. the rest is what came in the box.

I agree that the TC3 is quite a stout car. I'm also a beginer when it comes to Road courses and TCs, My car is FAST... probably as fast as nearly anyones, I often don't hold back when it comes to trying to get around the track fast. I've hit the walls quite hard over the past few weeks. So far I have not broken any of the TC3's parts. I did break my battery packs apart twice this weekend, but that was largely do to my realtively poor solder job on this one perticular pack. I think I have it soldered better now, so hopefully wont keep doing this...

My point is... I have hit the boards quite hard, and my all graphite TC3 has been putting up with it remarkably well. Heck I've even cracked a front TRC foam rim I've hit so hard, and haven't broken any Associated parts on this car. I have a big foam bumper that I made myself, it prtty much fills up the whole nose of my Stratus body. I've only cleared the foam away from the tires just enough to get full turning without rubbing... I've go the standard TC3 front bumper under that... no nerf bars or rear bumper. (Oh and I've also been slamed from behind quite hard too, as I'm going so much slower then many of my compeitors at this point... I try to stay out of their way... honest I do..)

I'm starting to get comfortable driving the car now... Hopefully my lap times will keep picking up.

Quick question for the TC3 experts: how many turns out can the lightweight diffs be adjusted without taking a chance on melting? Does the adjustment vary depending on running stock or modified? Thanks.

Question for the TC3 experts: how many turns out can the lightweight diffs be adjusted without taking a chance on melting the diff? Thanks.

Boosted...your best bet is to basically follow the instructions to the "T". That should be your best adjustment setting.

boosted GTP huh?? I got a pretty damn quick SHO V8 that's got some h.p. myself! underpullies, sensors, chip, computer, K&N, etc...

It's so funny to think that some of today's "sporty" sedans (such as yours and mine!) are just as quick as some of the best SPORTS cars of the 80's, or actually faster. And using even smaller displacement motors. AHHH....modern technology.

Sorry about the double post. When I refreshed, the page did not update. C Buffalo; isn't great when someone thinks they can walk all over you and then surprise. Modern horsepower is great, but I respect all the ponies.

I have a question concerning the droop screws in the suspension arms. I purchased a used TC3 racer, with the composite parts. My arms don't have the droop screws, and the chassis does not have the little 'ears' on the front and rear that I assumed the droop screws rested on. With me so far? I was told the droop screws would make a world of difference in the handling on our carpet track with foam tires. I was told that I have an early version of the TC3, and that the later ones all had droop screws. I posted on the 'wanted-to-buy' board for a composite chassis and arms that used the screws. I called this the 'new version'. I was told that I didn't need the new version chassis to use the arms with the droop screws. That is question #1... is that true? Don't you need the little 'ears' for the screws to rest on?
I also went to a local hobby shop to look for composite arms with the droop screws.(being rather cheap, and wanting to pay as little as possible) I found composite arms with no screws, and graphite arms with screws. Question #2 is... do they make composite arms that use droop screws, or only graphite?
So I went to hobby shop #2 where I knew they had a couple of chassis in stock. They had 2 factory team graphite chassis... one with the 'ears' and one without. Now I'm really confused. This points to the theory that the droop screws were absent on the original design, including the factory team versions. I just looked at the exploded view and parts list from the AE website, and the droop screws are listed as 'NEW!'.
Question #3... can anyone shed any light on the history and current state of things concerning chassis, arms and droop screws?
Thanks.

[This message has been edited by sheath (edited 01-29-2002).]

1. Many use droop screws with a chassis without ears. If you go this route be sure to use screws with rounded ends instead of screws with a truncated cone ends. Truncated cone ends will dig into the chassis and change the droop setting during a race day. Even a rounded end will move a little in the beginning.

2. They make composite arm's with droop screw holes in them.

3. Tower Hobbies sells a composite chassis with droop screw ears for 21.95. I bought one last fall. As a side benifit, a new chassis made my car look fresh, the old one was really beat up.