The project was stalled for lack of ball cups. Thought I had 'em or I wouldn't have started! I've been spending the evening lowering my T3 so I have something to race tomorrow.

My main concern now is that things didn't line up. The upper arm's pivot ball comes out about 1/8" ahead of the lower. I'm wondering if it will be a problem geometry-wise.

Shouldn't really. Except for the wheelbase effect, I made sure equal amounts were cut off front and rear. You can line the new a-arm up with the standard using the droop screw holes to see how to cut them.

Shouldn't really. Except for the wheelbase effect, I made sure equal amounts were cut off front and rear. You can line the new a-arm up with the standard using the droop screw holes to see how to cut them.

Is *that* how you measured it? That works in the front, but in the rear it will move the wheels forward about 1/8-1/4", which is not only a dramatic change in wheelbase but will move the CG aft.

And that's also why I've got the rear hub carriers leaning forward - I was aiming to keep the wheelbase the same. Hmm...

Despite a great many distractions, I finished putting the NTC3 rear end on the car and will race it tomorrow. I'll report back what I think.

Works fine. Maybe a little less steering. Hard to say without having driven the beastie for a month. I took third due to some wrecks.

Just wondering what everyone thought about them. Did everyone like the way the cars felt?
Thanks
Doug

Mine still needs work. The NTC3 suspension moves the shocks inboard, and it's going to require a stronger spring. As it is now, it pushes bad on-power, and hooks off-power. Like a @#$% pan car fer cryin out loud.

is the niftech drivetrain worth the money? i am using all ae parts but i have been looking at the buyers guide from rccar action. the niftech set is about $400.00 total. also what is a good brand of rubber tire to use. i am in florida so the climate is generally warm? :drunk:

I unfortunately purchased the entire Niftech drive train (except for their bearings). The only thing I still have in my car is their titanium center drive shaft. I had problems with their diffs and their drive cups (ie: for the center drive shaft) were heavier than the stock cups. Also, the Schumacher blades worked better than the expensive Niftech axle saver things.

For tires, I highly recommend using the Takeoff pre-assembled CS-27 tires for your TC3 outdoors. Schumacher imports the Takeoff tires and since you are from Florida (which is where they are at) you are all set. :)

-Rich

thanks for the info im actually running cs27's already just didnt know if there was anything better

do you notice a difference in the drive shaft. does the niftech one shave any time off your laps or are the guys with the blue or graphite shafts just as fast?

have to order some wheel bearing for my TC3. I'm at work and the car is at home. Does anyone know the size? 3/16 by 3/8?

If you mean the wheel axle bearings, then:

6906 - 3/16 X 3/8 for FT Teflon-sealed, and
3977 - 3/16 X 3/8 for racer kits.


:cool:

This is what towerhobbies.com lists as replacement sizes:



Qty. Size Location
2 3/16" x 5/16" short hub
4 3/8" x 5/8" outdrive assembly
4 3/16" x 3/8" rear input shaft
4 3/16" x 3/8" steering blocks
4 3/16" x 3/8" rear hub carriers

Thanks guys for your responses. I didn't think to look at Tower Hobbies website. I ordered the bearings from www.teambluestar.com. The last ones I bought from them seemed to be of high quality. They were much better than the Duratrax ones I bought.

Does anyone have a hot set up for black top on CS27's?
I'm thinking of getting a xxx-s because there are a couple
factory drivers that are running them and can help me
with the set up on those. But I figured I would try to
see if you guys could help before I go buy a losi.

Anyone know where I can get a top brace that covers the drive shaft and that doesnt get in the way on a chassis that has had the batteries moved inward toward the center?

as a matter of fact i have two chasis (complete) for sale

or are you looking for just a the piece that goes from front to back

Just looking for a top brace

Anyone know where I can get a top brace that covers the drive shaft and that doesnt get in the way on a chassis that has had the batteries moved inward toward the center?

WARPSPEED RACING has an upperplate. You can contact
WARPSPEED RACING at warpspeedracing@aol.com

Victor Franco
WARPSPEED RACING
When you're ready to get serious!

does anybody use the rally conversion for the cold season. There is an indoor offroad track that I would like to run this winter. I have seen a website where the guy was having some success with a TC3 stadium truck conversion. I am hope to run a rally car with the buggies if the track officials let me in. :lol:

i have a electric tc3.
is electric 190
and 200 nitro?
trying to buy a body and not sure which size.

i have a electric tc3.
is electric 190
and 200 nitro?
trying to buy a body and not sure which size.

yes, electric TC3 = 190mm, nitro TC3 = 200mm.

Where are you guys running? I'm in Colorado and the only track is MHOR... Too far from me... I would parking lot race if I knew where? Any help? I'm running a XXX-S Graphite and a Team TC3

I'm new here, and might be in the wrong place... Sorry if this is the case...

Where are you guys running? I'm in Colorado and the only track is MHOR... Too far from me... I would parking lot race if I knew where? Any help? I'm running a XXX-S Graphite and a Team TC3

HobbytownUSA in Fort Collins, Every Sunday, nearly 100 entries and a well run program

Fort Collins is way North of me, I wonder what the Westminster and Lakewood stores are doing... Would even be fun just to get a few local people together for a street or lot race... If there is anybody lookin to race 10th scale elec. TC, hit me up... I have some friends that are tryin to get started again, hopefully they can get built up soon... I'm in Denver...


Right on,

babythebiker@tmail.com

The HobbyTown's in both Westminster and Lakewood also parking lot race almost every weekend. Not sure about the crowd, but I know it is decend.

If you have any questions, feel free to contact me at eric@darksidems.com

Eric Dimmick
Darkside Motorsports

Hey all,

Lots of good info here.

I'm setting up my 2nd tc for the current one to become a spare car. I run 27turn stock, so i'm using the lightweight diffs however i have 4 diffs, 2 are the black bevel gears, and the other 2 are a kind of white looking gear. Just wondering if anyone can say 'yeh its cool they just changed for a period of time' or if you'd say 'wow red flag dont use that'

Also, a small quick question, my manual which came with my early release tc3 says you need to loosen the diff bold 1/4 turn, the newer manual says 1/2 turn. I'd imagine the 1/2turn to be best as they must of changed it in the manual for some reason!

I noticed the light weight diffs have a bushing in them, is it often the choice to find a bearing to fit?

and finally you guys generally run your diffs front and rear the same 'tightness'?

Thanks

The plastic outdrives can be overtightened to almost spool quality. That's what I use when I want a spool. If you put the bearings in the plastic outdrives they won't work because they're too thick. The diff will just slip.
I run my front diff slightly tighter than the rear. On concrete I prefer a one -way. Way more corner speed.

The black diff gears are what the 1st gears were. Then there was a durabilty problem so AE changed to the white(ish) gears. They hold up much better.
AE does make bearings to fit the molded diffs,Part #3916. And yes they are better than the bushings.
The standard setting is 1/2 turn out from snug(don't overtighten). Normally I run the front a little than the rear.

Hope this helps,
Walter

Hey thanks,

Walt, you said 'normally i run the front a little than the rear'

a little what? i think you said it in your head but didnt type it :p tighter? slacker?

Could you explain to me how you use the diff to control handeling? for example 'if the car is doing X then i make Y tighter'

thanks all

A little tighter than the rear.

A little tighter than the rear.

with foams on carpet?

Yeah definitely with foams on carpet. If it's a tight track like CEFX, you want it quite tight actually. Almost like a spool..

Cool, Thanks for the information.

Just to make things a bit clearer, what is a tight diff? lets try and do this by the TC3 manaul. After you've felt the spring is compressed how much of a turn will you slacken it off to have a tight diff?

And the opposite way, on the rear, how much of a turn would you go if you was racing stock 27t's 1/2 like the book says or more?

Ya know, I'm not sure on the actual number of turns out or in or whatever.. I just tighten or loosen it until it feels right. :D

lol well in that case, i guess i better fly over to your neck of the woods and have you feel my diff! LOL

Maybe the next time you rebuild a diff you can pay attention to how many turns it takes until it 'feels right'

Oh man... I don't know about that.. That would require effort and like counting and stuff :D

I have a diff setting tool that is just a u shape w/2 pins sticking up on each end that you set the outdrive slots in. Then you can spin the ring gear to see how tight or loose the diff is. I got it w/a couple of diffs on e-bay but im sure someone knows where you can get one.

I have a diff setting tool that is just a u shape w/2 pins sticking up on each end that you set the outdrive slots in. Then you can spin the ring gear to see how tight or loose the diff is. I got it w/a couple of diffs on e-bay but im sure someone knows where you can get one.

Niftech I believe

Cool, Thanks for the information.

Just to make things a bit clearer, what is a tight diff? lets try and do this by the TC3 manaul. After you've felt the spring is compressed how much of a turn will you slacken it off to have a tight diff?

And the opposite way, on the rear, how much of a turn would you go if you was racing stock 27t's 1/2 like the book says or more?

I would consider a tight diff to be 1/4 turn out. A good starting point is 1/4 turn out on the front diff and 3/8ths to 1/2 turn on the rear diff depending on what you are running (stock or mod,tighter for mod)

Hope this helps,
Walter

Cool thanks,

I figured I'd post my setup, for the aid of other drivers or for feedback.

Tight Carpet track - 27turn
FT TC3
Dodge Stratus 3 'carpet' shell.

Front:
60wt oil
Yellow springs
Parma PSE Cyan foams
5mm droop
roll bar
2deg kickup 2deg caster
0deg toe in/out
5mm ride height
Standard camber link locations
outside hole on the front shock tower

Rear:
40wt oil
Red springs
Parma PSE Magenta foams
5mm droop
Anti roll bar
2deg toe in 2deg anti squat
5mm ride height
Standard camber link locations
Inside hole on the rear shock tower

Steel diffs.

Also with an IRS chassis with the same setup but light weight diffs, I use RPM rod ends, full polished hinge pins.. and a fastrax centre shaft, however i'm questioning this, its seems a very tight fit. I might shim it to releave the tension (front to back) as it seems its pushing on the diffs to hard i'm thinking i'd prefer it to be looser to allow the car to be more free.