So, by standing the front shocks up more it would give more steering on the exit of the corner, when getting back into the power?

I don't know what that means actually. I'm still trying to get a good overall feel for the car, let alone how it feels on the entrance and exit of a corner. I'm happy just to get around the corner:lol:

here is a site that someone put me onto and if you already no just disregard it... Has just about all the basics on tuning a 4wd... in simple terms that most people are able to grasp the concepts... here it is... check out the chassis setup guide. They also have setups from various events.

www.mpowered-racing.com

Walter

Thanks alot for the info,Where should I Start with the droop I was thinking like 41/2 front and 4 in teh rear:confused:

I run 5 in front and 4 1/2 in the rear

also i use losi steering knuckles

Walter-have you run the Krypton motors and what do you think? Will it be a great 12th scale motor?

Thanks,
Ray

Is that based off of your AE droop gauge? I want to know how much lift you have...:D

Originally posted by walterhenderson
I run 5 in front and 4 1/2 in the rear

also i use losi steering knuckles

Ray, they make alot of power with there larger comm and laydown brushes. I think the comm is too large for 1/12th scale.

Aaron, yep. You should know by now i have no lift!!!:roll:

I have to admit, your method of not "lifting" has proven very successful recently. I'll have to try that this weekend. :D

Originally posted by walterhenderson
Aaron, yep. You should know by now i have no lift!!!:roll:

Walt Henderson-
What is the difference for you with the Losi hubs?

How are people mounting there BRP wings to the side of the chassis? when u used the screws and nuts that come with it the nut gets in the way of the battery on the side of the batt. so how are ppl mounting these things?

How are people mounting there BRP wings to the side of the chassis? when u used the screws and nuts that come with it the nut gets in the way of the battery on the side of the batt. so how are ppl mounting these things?
Just put the nut's to the outside of the chassis, so the smooth head of the screw is toward the battery. I moved my battery over so I just put the foam padding over the screw head's. Hope this help's.
Anybody got any set-up idea's for smooth outdoor asphalt with Takeoff 22's on. Running Barry's setup from the asphalt nat's. last year right now. Work's great but there is alway's room for improvement.
Later.....Hank :wave:

You mount the button heads in on the battery side and the nuts in on the motor side!!!

Those little puppies are gonna save you a lot of broken parts!!!

Quick question:

Racing a TC3 on smooth carpet, what are the best front block carriers to have:
Front Block Carriers 0 Degree
Front Block Carriers 2 Degree
Front Block Carriers 4 Degree

And how do the different carriers make the car handle?
Thanks
:confused:

Smooth High Traction... I ran F+2 and 4 degree castor at Snowbirds... was running the F+0 but found I could roll through the corners better with the F+2.

How are people mounting there BRP wings to the side of the chassis? when u used the screws and nuts that come with it the nut gets in the way of the battery on the side of the batt. so how are ppl mounting these things?

I glued mine on with a generous quantity of Shoe Goo. You've got to do this the day before you go racing so it can cure...

The wide rear bumper looks great with the kit bodies, but I just tried the Pro-Line GT40 body and the bumper kind of hangs out the back...
.

Yeah, like everyone else said. :D Button heads to the battery, I covered the button heads with a small piece of electrical tape, the tape is black and blends right in with the chassis, you can't even see it.

Dan, did I understand you right? You used ONLY shoo goo and no screws? Even letting it cure, it seems like a mild hit would pull them off? Just curious, thanks. :tongue: I use the wide rear bumper, but it doesn't stick out of a Stratus. Tell me you don't race with a GT40? :eek: LoL

Quick question:

Racing a TC3 on smooth carpet, what are the best front block carriers to have:
Front Block Carriers 0 Degree
Front Block Carriers 2 Degree
Front Block Carriers 4 Degree

And how do the different carriers make the car handle?
Thanks
:confused:

You will have to figure out what works best for you on your own, but the caster blocks and the F block affect caster. The more caster you have the more turn IN you will have, but at the cost of steering coming OUT of the corner. The effects of the blocks and F block (holds front hinge pins in) are cumulative. So, if you run a F+2 and 2 deg blocks, you have 4 degrees of caster.

The place to start is to figure out if you have enough steering going into the corner. If the car is pushing, try more caster. I run 4 degree blocks and the F-0 front block. That is 4 degrees of caster.

I am not sure what Walter Henderson is running at the moment, but his setup is posted on this thread if you go back through the earlier posts.

SS

SS-when you say more caster = more turn in-Are you assuming that more caster means a higher or lower numerical figure IN other words-in your explanation is more caster 4 or 6 degrees??

Thanks,
Ray

Caster.. Ugh.. this is one area of chassis setup that is pretty grey. Caster differs between 2-wheel drive vehicles (like offroad buggies and 1/12th scale) and 4-wheel drive vehicles) like our touring cars -- to the point that they are opposite between the two types.

In general, by theory for _touring car_ is that more caster (ie: 6 deg versus 0 deg) smoothes out high speed steering (ie: how sensitive the car is around center on a the straight) and gives more turn-in and less exit. This goes with what Squirrel said above. However, "feel wise" on the track I gain exit and on-power steering. Why? I dunno.

Anyways, the amount of total caster is also affected by how much kick-up is run (this adjusted with the F+0 and F+2 blocks on the TC3). Kick-up affects caster by adding more when you run the F+2 block (if you run it with the 4 deg C-hubs you have a total of 6 deg caster) and it also affects the front suspension. Since the lower arms are angled up with the front of the arm higher than the rear, the car will go over bumps better (like kick-up on an off-road vehicle -- that is why they run 10 - 20 deg of kick-up on off-road buggies).

The caster on Walt's car depends on whether he is running anti-dive up front or not. When he is running anti-dive, he is around 4 degrees of caster with 6 deg Losi C-hubs and the F+2 block.

Anyways, the whole thing with caster is how it affect weight jacking. I'm terrible at explaining this stuff so hopefully someone else can explain it.

I pretty much stopped thinking about the specifics (especially since it varies by car type) and just make a change in caster and see how it feels.

-Rich

Man, you lost me with that explanation. I'm going to quit racing.

:jest:

Dan, did I understand you right? You used ONLY shoo goo and no screws? Even letting it cure, it seems like a mild hit would pull them off? Just curious, thanks. :tongue: I use the wide rear bumper, but it doesn't stick out of a Stratus. Tell me you don't race with a GT40? :eek: LoL

The Shoe Goo works great. One of them finally came off after a few months of racing but gluing it back on was trivial. And plenty of the hits I've taken are way more than "mild".

As for the GT40, I got sick of seeing all these boring pill-shaped sedans. Unfortunately I screwed up the paint so I don't think I'll bring it out in public. :( But I'm going to buy another one.

The caster will also change the camber gain; more caster=more camber for a given steer angle; and I agree that people seem to have different opinions on whether it conforms to theory. The camber gain may explain why it can hurt or help a car, depending on the roll stiffness, damping, static camber are other variables from car to car that react with the camber gain. What it all comes down to is your car and your track and what works for you.

FWIW, I raced the GT40 body yesterday and it didn't seem to change much, driving-wise. A new set of tires made a much bigger difference. It looked OK after I decaled it up, and it sure is a nice change in look from the Stratus I had.

Down with pill-shaped sedans! :freak:

Hey guys just trying to get more info.

I was reading all the info at the about the carpet nats and just was curious if it's true or not.

I heard the A/e guys were back to the original steering racks and not the the ntc3 steering?

I also saw Mike Blackstock's set-up posted already and noticed he was running original front tower up front,not the rear?

I think that's it..now i know that alot of it is driver preference,but anyone care to shed some light for me? :thumbsup:

Maybe Walter could help out :D or Mike or anyone lol!!

I have a few questions on milling the chassis slots for the batteries. 1. How far should I move the batteries over. 2. How do you still run the batteries in the back slot with the batteries moved towards the drive shaft. It looks like the batteries will hit the rear bearing drive shaft brace??? Would I have to file on the existing battery slots to move the batteries far enough forward to get in font of the brace w/o moving them all the way to the front slots???
thanks
Michael

I believe almost everyone runs their batteries in the forward slots for more steering so it is not an issue.

SS

Yeah, I have always seen people use the forward slots.

Yeah, I have always seen people use the forward slots.

well I run a spool in modified and run the batteries back. If I get anyMORE steering I'll be able to turn 180's on a dime with change to spare LOL so are most people that do this mod not running a spool? and has anyone see Joshes car??? I thought he said he ran his batteries back in mod touring as well???
thanks again

well I run a spool in modified and run the batteries back. If I get anyMORE steering I'll be able to turn 180's on a dime with change to spare LOL so are most people that do this mod not running a spool? and has anyone see Joshes car??? I thought he said he ran his batteries back in mod touring as well???
thanks again

most people were going with the stock shock tower in the front and a heavier front sway bar...

most people were going with the stock shock tower in the front and a heavier front sway bar...

thanks I'll try a heavier sway bar... any other info with people who are running a spool? maybe a basic setup with it. I'm just wondering if I have my springs too light or shock oil is wrong. The car is pretty fast under power, but if you let up at all it won't turn into the corners. purple front copper rear 60 oil front and rear. Stock front sway bar on it now... none on the rear. droop with an integy guage is 2 in the front and 1 in the back. Can anyone give me a suggestion as to where to go from here???

i have just purchased a quantum competition speedo and was wondering is it necessary to put the diode on the motor?

Hey All,

i just picked up a used TC3 and will be going through it as soon as it comes in. I have had touring cars before, most recently a XXX-S and got it working well and I am looking forward to the TC3.

Now, to the questions:

1) what graphite hopups do you recommend? I am leaning towards getting the chassis and shock towers, maybe arms but not the carriers.

2) I have orders all the BRP protection stuff (front & rear bumpers, wings). Anything else that protects the car I should get.

3) I probably will be running a chameleon 19T or a street spec motor. What is a good pinion range to start with (ie- 24, 25, 26) .

4) I will be running foam tires indoors, purples in the rear plaids up front. whats a good starting spring setup, I will be running 60 weight oil.

Thanks!


:thumbsup:

cain- what track do you race at?

your at a good starting point for tires. if you go 60wt oil all around you may find the front end turns in too agressivly, but it will depend on what spring and pistons. a good set up for the shocks is white spring/80wt front/ purple springs 60wt rear, #3 pistons all around. for droop a good starting point on the tc3 is 6 in the front 4 in the rear.

definately get all the graphite stuff, especially for carpet w/ foams. if any thing the chassis and arms.

i dont run 19turn so can be of any help there.

Guys, I know this has probably already been brought up in this
thread at least once already but I couldn't find it. I am just
curious what your opinion is of the best touring car speed
control. Could you please list a few. I will buy the best
that I can afford. Thanks!

*For stock racing.

Tom

I prefer LRP products, like a Quantum, but Novak is great too. It all depends on your budget though.

Guys, I know this has probably already been brought up in this
thread at least once already but I couldn't find it. I am just
curious what your opinion is of the best touring car speed
control. Could you please list a few. I will buy the best
that I can afford. Thanks!

*For stock racing.

Tom

I run at manchester hobbies.

The topp driver doesn't run any droop screws in his TC3, and he is wicked fast. I did the same in my losi and it worked great.

As for too much turn in, I actually like driving with a lot of turn in, so that will be a good thing :D My car should be here Tuesday, so I will sit down and tear her apart and see whats what.

How strong are the graphite arms? I will have all the BRP protection stuff on the car. I may get a graphite chassis and the aluminum shaft, anything else you can recommend?

Thanks!

Does anyone KNOW?
I have a TC3 that is pretty fast, it was a regular tc3 not the team car. But i converted it over to it except for the heat sink and the battery bar. I have a Trinty Monster Horse Revenge and use a 3000 match 6cell pack. i believe the track is a 42 ft straight ways and im guessing maybe 4 foot turns at that.. anyways we figured out that its better to use the 64 pitch spur and pinion gears. I was able to turn extremely low 3.0 sec laps and even quite a few 2.9 second laps which is flat getting with it. It is as fast as the pancars at the track. My TC3 co-holds the track record for most laps at 94 in 5minutes. Is there any other tuning that can be done to reach possibably 96 or more? If so please post or email me at ChevyCam86@collegeclub.com

Does anybody have any experience and/or recomendations regarding the usage of the NTC3 steering system on the TC3. I'm thinking about doing this modifications but am still on the fence about it.

Darkside, I installed the ntc rack on my car a couple month's ago. Seemed a tick smoother at the time, but last week we started our outdoor asphalt season on rubber tires and I ran really bad. Changed back to the stock chassis, had the batteries moved in the other one, went to the stock rack and ran second in the A-main at another asphalt track this past Sat. Also at the Snowbird's, I noticed that Barry Baker had the stock steering on his car. Best upgrade is good ball cup's and stuff to keep as much slop out of the steering as you can.
Later......Hank :wave:

Does anybody have any experience and/or recomendations regarding the usage of the NTC3 steering system on the TC3. I'm thinking about doing this modifications but am still on the fence about it.

I have done it, and I think it has too much ackerman if done with the stock suspension. The car turned really weird. It worked a lot better with the rest of the NTC3 stuff (http://mywebpages.comcast.net/bjputerbaugh/rc/NEtc3.JPG) .

I have done it, and I think it has too much ackerman if done with the stock suspension. The car turned really weird. It worked a lot better with the rest of the NTC3 stuff (http://mywebpages.comcast.net/bjputerbaugh/rc/NEtc3.JPG) .
I gotta know how you did that, because I've been thinking of trying something similar. But the suspension mounting holes are all wrong. Did you just drill another set?

Hardcore sells a titanium chassis kit that lets you do the same thing...

I just narrowed the Nitro a-arms to fit the stock suspension mounting points. Then open up the holes on the mounting brackets for the nitro pins, cut the lower pins to fit, chop off the outer parts of the front upper and lower arms(cut between the two shock mounting holes). do the same in the back, also drill the pivot ball holes through front and rear. Use the nitro rear arm mount with the toe links on it. Dremel a little shock clearance as well.
It's kinda nice to have complete toe control in the back. With plastic CVDs, graphite, heavy body, 57 mm foams and steel pivot balls it comes in at 53 1/2 oz, which is close to the new ROAR rules, but way off of the 50-51 oz run around here. I think the Ti Pivot balls would take an ounce off, and so would a GT7 or LRP esc, PT 1/2 ounce, and maybe a 1/4-1/2 oz with a light body, after that more weight can be dremeled off the shock towers and arms.

...chop off the outer parts of the front upper and lower arms(cut between the two shock mounting holes). do the same in the back, also drill the pivot ball holes through front and rear.
I hadn't realized there was a track width difference between the two cars til I read this, but the nitro car is 200mm. Hmmm...

Did you just use the kit CVDs and axles? And what's the story with the turnbuckle on the bumper?

Same CVDs. The turnbuckle was a short lived attempt to prevent my RPM bumper from dragging in front of the car, it's seen better days, I don't hit stuff often but when I do its usually the cut the corner short and slam the board head on variety.

Ben,

Are you coming up to Hobby Hub (Lansing) this weekend or Hobby Stop Raceway (Toledo) next weekend? I would like to see this car in person.

SS

Ben - thanks. I gotta try this... I've already ordered a bunch of parts.

I figure I've ordered about 1/3 the car at about 1/2 the price. :-D

Ben,

Are you coming up to Hobby Hub (Lansing) this weekend or Hobby Stop Raceway (Toledo) next weekend? I would like to see this car in person.

SS
Yes I am planning on coming up to Lansing this weekend. Unfortunately I just put the c hub stuff back on last night as that setup is much faster now. The PB setup isn't there yet(it TQd and won last week but second place car should have had both), mostly just lack of time with it, but also the weight(which will take time & $$ to get rid of). I'll have the parts with me though.

Dan- Let me know when you get the parts and I can send you or post the dimensions for the cuts.

Dan- Let me know when you get the parts and I can send you or post the dimensions for the cuts.
Thanks. Hobby store says about half the parts I asked for are back-orderd - wonder which half? :freak: (We have a new LHS here in Ridgecrest, run by racers, and I'm trying to give them as much support as I can.)

For arms, carriers and towers I ordered the full carbon kit - I figure I can sell the unneeded parts around here somewhere.

How did you go about cutting down the arms? Razor saw? Dremel?

I've started on my hybrid. My plan is to do the rear first, get it sorted, and then do the front, which is more complicated.

The rear is almost done. I just need to drill down the pillow ball holes. I can hardly believe how strong the nitro parts are. They would make a fantastic basis for a buggy, much better than the electric suspension. But I'll save that for the next project.

I'm a little worried about how much I had to cut down the arms to fit them in the space available. On the back part of the arm, the strong part is completely gone and the flange is holding on the rest. I think I'll try to reinforce it somehow. I think I have some Kevlar tow around here somewhere...

Anyone need a graphite handle, radio tray, and braces for the nitro car?

I'm a little worried about how much I had to cut down the arms to fit them in the space available. On the back part of the arm, the strong part is completely gone and the flange is holding on the rest. I think I'll try to reinforce it somehow. I think I have some Kevlar tow around here somewhere...

?
Dan,
I don't think you should have to worry about the strength, I have hammered some stuff and not so much as a bent pivot ball and that was in the front. Remember the nitro stuff is meant to hold up a car that is substantially heavier and much faster than the ETC3.