TRL,

There will be 1 deg. if you run the F block with the R-2+0. You will also have pro-squat instead of anti-squat when using the F block. You need to shim the F block up .030 to get your anti-squat back if that is what you are looking for. I am not exactally sure what the difference on the track will be. Anyone???

Paul

I just though you had to run the losi 1 degree hubs on reverse to get 1 degree toe,wasn't sure if running the 2+0 would also give you 1 degree toe in.Yes i do have a .030 shim under the f-block already!;)

When you are using the rear tower up front, where are you guys running into problems with ride height? I have the new arms on my car, and I also have the reartower up front. I have tried using the outer holes on the new front arms, but I have to give up too much steering throw to use them. I have to turn my steering rate way down in order for the inner wheels to keep from hitting the lower shock mount screws. I left the upper shock mount in the outer most position, then moved the lower mount on the arm back to the original inner position, to allow more steering throw. I run my ride height at 4mm all around, and had no problems getting it that low. I could even go lower if needed. Do you run into the ride height problems when you move the upper mounts in? Wouldn't that be the same as using the original front tower? Is it that your running a smaller, or larger diameter tire? I'm just trying to understand where the problem lies. I haven't run into it yet, and I would like to avoid it. Thanks!

Sounds to me as if you still have limiters in your shocks. Or... and i have run into this... try pulling down on your shock shafts. For some reason, after extended use, the bobbin inside the shock seems to wiggle up because there isnt any limiters hitting it and keeping it down thru shock travel. With the droop screws in place, the shock shaft never fully extends to keep the bobbin pressed down. Or maybe i just need to replace the bobbins in my shocks! (or maybe your o-rings arent sitting in the bottom of the shock right?) But i ran into a similar situation, and found i just needed to remove the limiters in my shocks. Now the front end with the new arms and rear shock tower has plenty of downtravel. Makes me wish i was Colin McRae in that Ford Focus haulin tail up a mountain side... spewin dirt off my knobby tires! Enough of my peppermint patty dreams... hope this helps!
- Racer X

Dave U been stuck in the sticks tooooo longg hey just picked up a tc3 from wayne just want a carpet set up to run at hampton. looks like hobbytown going to get back into carpet racn also there adverising 35x90 tc track. Jim knows that he'll loose busness when their track opens sorry to say that but its true its true hes got to expand tc track 6' straight with 7' inside section starting to get old real quick can't run more than 4 with out the track being to crowded i haven't had a clean run yet just tired of being hacked to death
conflickting scheudles of stream and tidewater have already cut into the crowd......... See YA !Bubba

Hey all, I 've got a question.
I bought a Trinity roll over antenna for my TC3, my first question is what's the best way to route the antenna since the shaft is solid?
right now I just have it coiled around the shaft.
Second, how do you keep the shaft from poking out the bottom of the chassis? (this applies to non-roll over also).
Just wondering,
Chris

As far as being "hacked to death", come on it's just local R/C racing!
If it was a national or something, then I could see getting upset.
I'll stick with Tidewater for the simple fact that I can't trust anything HobbyTown says, they already lied to once trying to get me to spend $150 on a Novak GT7 just because they were out of Cyclone TC2s. (they told me Novak quit making the TC2). But hey, good luck there! It's to far for me to drive anyway! Besides I think Jim will be around long after that track is.
Just my .02

I think Novak did quit making the entire Cyclone line. Their website shows them all as discontinued.??

Yep - this was brought up in another thread on here. The Novak folks confirmed that the GT7 is the replacement for the TC/TC2 line and that line is no longer made.

You will still be able to get warranty work performed on Cyclones.

-Rich

"I think Novak did quit making the entire Cyclone line. Their website shows them all as discontinued.??"

I just checked the website and it shows nothing about the cyclones deing dicontinued. Under the products section, it lists the TC2/Cyclone right along side the GT7.
If thye are discontinuing it, I guess I owe HBYTown an apoligy, I'm just not convinced it is yet.

Anyone have any tips on the antenna thing?
Chris

threefries, either go to Tidewater or make the trek to Debbie's, I've been far and wide and debbie's is one of the best out there, Eric knows RC cars, just my .02,


PS I hear GT7 don't hold up in 4 cell racing

Threeflys...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWT38&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWT39&P=7

Sad but true

discontinued

Is Eric at Debbies? Not sure I know him.

BTW- I lost the carpet knife on ebay, the winning bid was 169.00
too rich for my blood! :)

I was just wondering what your set-up was at Trackside this week-end for stock?And did you change much between stock and mod?

thanks for any help?:thumbsup:

I am pretty sure the Novak race at Trackside this past weekend is a rubber tire race?

The pictures I saw where all rubber tired cars. And Yes, if you go to the Novak website and look up operating manuals for the Cyclone line, you'll have to look in the "discontinued" column. Same for repair info I believe, all under discontinued models.

Yup i know,going to a rubber race myself!;)

TRL,

Setup
Front- 50 wt,#2s,blue springs-middle hole in tower(used a rear tower)outer hole in arm,11/2*camber-long and up,6*castor,0*kickup,3*antidive,1* toeout
Rear- 40 wt,#2s,silver springs-middle hole in tower-outer arm hole,11/2*camber-raised up on standoffs off of tranny w/losi o*hubs in outer hole,3* toein,battery foward,alfa body,nitro steering rack,batteries moved in .300".
All i changed was tires and motor from stock to mod, Walter

Hey Walt what about diff's?? any one ways or spools?:wave:

See you Sat for some roundy-round action...

What's a TC3 RTR with 200mm kit and Novak Cyclone and Fantom 19-turn worth? Also what would it be worth without the electronics. It's got a bunch of other accessories:

FT Anti-roll bar
FT Graphite Rear Shock tower
FT Complete Spring set
Rear Shock tower on front
4 sets of tires/rims (all almost new)
IRS Heatsink (underside of motor)
FT Finned Heatsink (regular curved clips on motor)
2 190mm bodies (1 beat up, 1 okay)
200mm toyota MR-S body
All original 190mm parts
LRP Runner ESC
Associated Power19 motor
Team Orion Orbital 2 BB 10x2
and more...

I wouldn't pay more than $300 or $350 personally. My .02 cents. :thumbsup:

RTR, so I am assuming that it includes Radio? What about batteries and charger?
Jake

Walter

thanks very much,and yes front diff,spool or one-way?:D

oh ya, i forgot that- front spool.

No batteries or charger.

But thanks for your opinion on the price.

Walt,
You coming down Fri, or just Sat and sunday?

i will be down thurs. to help get everything setup,including the L4

Sorry to be a pain in the A**

Just a few things i don't understand,how did you achieve 3* anitdive shims underneath the f block???and how do you know it's three degree's?

Also imnot sure i understand what you mean by "11/2*camber-raised up on standoffs off of tranny w/losi o*hubs in outer hole,3* toein"?

And any sway-bars?:D

Thanks again!

Hey All,
Any of you TC3 drivers have any input on sway bars? I picked up two sets today and was thinking about putting a set on the back as I would like more steering. What would putting sway bars on both ends do?
Chris :roll:

ok, to get antidive you need alittle bit of time. first add a .030" shim under the "f" block(the rear wheelbase washers work well)then take the f-0 block and cut it down .030". then take the bumper and cut it down .030" where it rests on the chassis.Bolt on the f-0 block to the bumper and the mounting holes should be flush with the bottom of the bumper.

as for the rear camber links i ran 0* losi hubs with the ballstud in the outermost hole.As for the inner ballstud i put .425" standoffs on top of the middle tranny case holes with a ballstud in the top.(This gives you more rear bite) And i used 3-0 rear toein block.

And i ran a stock front swaybar. Walter

Walter
Thanks again

IM learning a tonne from you,so I guess i should keep getting info while your giving it for free LOL:thumbsup: What about the f block in the rear are you running it as well,and who makes the standoffs that you used,as i would like to try it cuz i can never have enough bite in rubber tires!

Do you also use losi steering blocks?

TRL - for the standoffs (I just did some measuring) -- if you have a 12L3 you can use the standoff that is underneath the damper plate pod. But, you'll need two.

Rich is correct i used the standoffs off of the 12l3/10l4 associated part #4442b.You need 2 packagesas ther is only 1 of the correct lengh in each bag.

I use the f block in the rear only on foam tires.As well as losi steering blocks on foam tires. Walter

Walter, Your talking about the "F" block in the (front) rear of the car, and the "F-0" block & bumper in the (front) front of the car, right? (I hope that makes sense.) So what your doing is putting the hinge pins (front & rear) on an angle thats higher twords the center of the car?




ok, to get antidive you need alittle bit of time. first add a .030" shim under the "f" block(the rear wheelbase washers work well)then take the f-0 block and cut it down .030". then take the bumper and cut it down .030" where it rests on the chassis.Bolt on the f-0 block to the bumper and the mounting holes should be flush with the bottom of the bumper.

Walter

The car work really good with that set-up,just wondering what you ran for droop?:)

4 1/2 in the front and 3 1/2 in the rear

Originally posted by walterhenderson
4 1/2 in the front and 3 1/2 in the rear

What ride height?
stevent

hey..what everyone think about all the chasis cutting for stock class? i was told that its mostly a mod class thing to help with all the power...wil lthey be a big help on carpet with foems with stock motors?

5mm ride height

As for will the chassis cutting help in stock. Yes it will,it is a BIG advantage in stock or modified. Walter

Walter

If I wanted less toe-in with your rubber set-up what would be the way to go,just runt the 2+0 block and that gives you 2* with losi 0* hubs,is it possible to get less with 11/2 or 1* losi hubs toe with the r block in the back or does that only work if you have the f block in?

I think that makes sense?:confused:

thanks!

You could go either way. The losi 1/2* blocks backwords(right on the left and left on the right) will take out 1/2* per side. So with the 2* block you would get 1 1/2* and with the 3* block you would get 2 1/2* . Walter

Walter

Thanks for the info, just wondering why you don't use the F block in the back for rubber tires,just a preference thing or is there another reason? :)

Hello Walter!

Where do you plan on racing this weekend? Just trying to figure out where everyone is going?

Mark

No real reason other than you really don't need to get rid of the toe-in like on foam tires.

Mark, if i run it will be sunday in lansing.

Hello Walt...

shoot me a e-mail tonight or tomorrow if you are going. I would like to run 12th scale on sunday to test the the new body. Dax13441555@aol.com

Mark

Hey guys,

What is the change in handling when raising the ballstud on the rear hub carrier?


Also-is raising the camber links-or lowering as the case may be, the the same as lowering or raising the lower arms via the innner hingepin locations?

I am looking for a quick and easy way to dramatically change the roll center on the back of the TC3 for testing purposes. BAsically to see if I raise the rear roll center if I can make the car rotate as fast as before, but make the rear of car feel more planted-but not with a lot of rear toe in.

I think it's really only the length of the rod thar makes the most difference, thats why people are using the Losi rear blocks isn't it?:wave:

Yes and no. The length does affect roll based on the lever-arm principle. However, the angle it is at affects intersection points for the actual roll-center.

I looked back 18 pages and found this by Tom Englehart-one of the moderators of this site-I knew it was in here somewhere!!!

This is how to draw and find the roll center in a static state anyways!!!

Quote:
By moving the link up, the roll center is moved up.

Think of it this way....the imaginary line (an X) from the lower left inner hinge pin to the upper right inner hole on the shock tower (half of the X)....other half being the lower right inner hinge pin and the upper left inner hole on the shock tower.

By raising the inner camber links, the roll center is moved up...because the center of the X is raised....and the car will react sooner to the change in the chassis as it enters, traverses, and exits the corners.

Now, by moving the inner camber link positions in or out, affects how quickly the car reacts in the corners. Why? The further out on the shock tower the inner, upper camber link position, the sooner the suspension is affected by the chassis roll....so....the quicker reacting the car will be (if the traction is there, etc, etc). Unquote.

So to answer my own question-I need to lengthen and raise the inner camber link even more. That will raise the roll center and make the rear of the car react slower to the chasis roll or weight transfer.

hmmmm... Sounds like the mod Walter just suggested with the ball stud atop the tranny case....hahaha!!!!


I stil dont know how the raising of the ballstud on the outside translates to what you should feel. Is it the same as raising the inner camber link-or the opposite affect. arrggghhhhh. Getting a headache!!! This is why I sell generators and am not the enginner on Michael Andretti's Champ car. Darn my feeble brain....

Hey Ray,
I am thinking about having a chassis milled for Jake. Can you e-mail me with how to get it to you so I can send it and have it done. Also let me know how much it costs.

Thanks,
Dean

Ray -- yes and no (that is my favorite saying today). I just checked with Fred B. who is my roll-center guru.

The point of interserction depends on the angle of the lower arm. And, since you are running my setup on your car :D , the rear arms should be sloped in. So, lowering the rear camber link will raise the roll center.